The Swiss cheese plant naturally grows beneath the shade of big trees. It therefore favors diffused light or light that has been filtered by a sheer curtain. It will require some direct sunlight, but just for a short period of time each day. As it adjusts to your surroundings, it’s also crucial to avoid placing it in direct sunlight immediately soon because the leaves burn rapidly. Additionally, it will not produce the typical leaf holes in low light conditions.
How much light does a plant that makes Swiss cheese need?
This stress-free, drought-tolerant, air-cleaning houseplant is beloved by gardeners of all skill levels. The miniature “Bird’s Nest” variants look great on nightstands and next to computers (prefers moderate to low soil moisture).
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Where should a Swiss cheese plant be kept for optimal results?
Finding the ideal location for your Swiss cheese plant is crucial. The leaves will scorch under too much direct sunlight. If there is too much shade, the leaves won’t pierce. The best location is near a window in good lighting and is only a few feet away. Avoid placing it close to a radiator or an air conditioner. Give it plenty of space because it will become extremely big.
Swiss cheese plants can survive in temperatures as low as 10C but will only thrive in temps over 18C.
How to plant a Swiss cheese plant
Plant in a large, drainage-holed pot with peat-free, all-purpose, or house plant compost inside of it. Around the root ball, there should be at least 1 inch of compost.
Caring for a Swiss cheese plant
Swiss cheese plants require little maintenance. The time of year and the environment in the space will determine how frequently you should water your Swiss cheese plant. Instead of watering according to a schedule, water anytime the compost’s top inch or two are dry. Make sure to let all of the water run off after that. Wintertime plants require less watering, especially if they are kept in a cool environment. In the spring and summer, give the plant a monthly feeding with a house plant food.
The stems of the plant must be tied into a support, such as a moss or coir pole, as it develops and becomes floppy. These are available online or in garden centers.
Aerial roots, which are long, white roots that emerge from the plant’s stems, will also develop on the plant. These aid the plant in clinging to trees in the wild. Trimming the aerial roots off if you find them unsightly is OK because your plant will be obtaining its nutrition from the roots in the compost. To support the plant, you can also tuck them into the compost or let them climb the moss pole.
If the roots are starting to protrude from the pot, repot in the spring using plant compost or all-purpose compost. Scoop up as much of the compost from the top of the pot as you can and replace it with fresh material if the plant grows too large for you to handle it comfortably.
To keep them looking glossy and to aid in the plant’s ability to breathe, occasionally wipe the large leaves with a damp cloth. Your plant will benefit from a sprinkling of its leaves if it is in a warm environment.
How to propagate a Swiss cheese plant
Taking cuttings from a Swiss cheese plant is simple. Choose a stem in the spring or early summer that has an aerial root starting to grow further down. Look for a white or brown bud next to a leaf. This will serve as the new roots. Make a cut that is about an inch below the aerial root with a sharp knife or secateurs. Check to make sure the aerial root is immersed before placing the stem in a clear, deep container with a few inches of water. Place in a well-lit area away from the sun and replace the water every few days. Within a week or two, new roots should begin to emerge. The cutting should have developed a respectable bundle of new roots that are about four inches long after about six weeks. You can now put the new plant in a pot filled with fresh, all-purpose, or house plant compost. water, allowing any extra to drain.
Growing Swiss cheese plants: problem-solving
If the leaves on your Swiss cheese plant aren’t perforating, they might still be young; it’s common for a plant to have both cut and uncut leaves. Move to a brighter area if the larger leaves are not perforating because of a lack of light.
You have overwatered your Swiss cheese plant and the compost is too wet if it is “weeping” or has “tears” of water at the borders of its leaves. Water only when the soil starts to dry out, and allow any extra water drain away. Make sure the compost is just damp, not sopping wet.
Yellow leaves may indicate overwatering, particularly if they are also wilting. It might also indicate that the plant needs to be fed.
Brown blotches on the leaves are probably the result of sunburn. Remove the plant from the sun’s direct rays.
Wilting leaves may indicate either inadequate or excessive irrigation. The plant needs water if the compost is starting to dry out. If it is soaked, you overwatered; let the soil air-dry. It may also indicate that the plant’s roots are becoming clogged and unable to absorb water. It’s time to plant it into a larger container if roots start to protrude from the bottom of the current one.
The simplest technique to fix a plant that has grown too large or out of shape is to prune it by removing some stems from the base. Because the sap may be harmful, wear gloves. Take a clipping or two instead, and give the original plant to someone with more room in their house.
Mealybugs might cause issues.
Watch out for insects on the undersides of leaves that resemble white, fluffy blobs. Use a cotton bud or moist towel dipped in a pesticide containing fatty acids or plant oils to wipe them off. Keep inspecting the leaves since mealybugs can be challenging to get rid of.
Scale insects, which are tiny, 6mm long, brown sap sucking insects, may also be seen. Remove using a cotton bud or piece of cloth dipped in a pesticide with fatty acids.
Can a Swiss cheese plant be kept inside?
Swiss cheese plants are often indoor plants grown by gardeners. Due to its preference for dim lighting, it makes a fantastic indoor plant. Plant it away from a window that gets plenty of sunlight. When the sun is too strong, the leaves become yellow. Keep it out of the way of the window. The optimum location for this shade lover is a north-facing room.
Only growing to a height of roughly 10 feet, it won’t reach the same size as it does outside. Make sure to provide it with a climbing surface! Regular potting soil is acceptable. at most once per week, water In between waterings, let the soil dry out. Here’s a clever tip: if you find yourself too busy to water your plant on a regular basis, you can use the fact that it has aerial roots to your advantage and put one or more of the roots in a pot of water! In addition to any watering you may be doing in the pot, it will absorb the water through that root. Because of how dry our homes are, spritz your plant two to three times per week to add humidity.
Use a balanced fertilizer to fertilize it two to three times a year, same as you would if you were growing it outside. Your plant can be pruned to maintain a manageable size.
Bright, direct light:
Since monsteras are jungle plants, they occasionally dislike direct sunshine.
Monsteras often develop below the canopy of a jungle and climb other trees to the light via aerial roots.
Even the idea has been floated that the holes in monstera leaves may have developed in part to let more light reach the lower leaves. (Read more about monstera plant history here!)
However, the one type of light that you should attempt to avoid is direct light because it isn’t the best for a monstera. Bright, direct sunlight can burn the leaves, leaving unsightly brown or tan areas that won’t go away (i.e., the sun’s rays hit the leaves directly and the leaves actually cast a shadow).
Bright, indirect light:
Brilliant, indirect light refers to bright light from a nearby window, but the sun’s rays never directly touch the leaves, and is a phrase you hear a lot when referring about houseplants. Make sure your plant doesn’t cast a shadow as a general rule.
The monstera prefers bright, indirect light, which stimulates it to grow and flourish quickly!
Put the monstera in a bright room a few feet from a window or immediately by a window that doesn’t get much direct sunlight if you want it to grow big and striking to make a statement (like a north or east-facing window). You’ll soon have a stunning, tall monstera!
Low light typically indicates that the plant is farther from a window, deeper in the room, or in a room with fewer windows. This does not imply a room without windows because few houseplants can survive in an environment with no natural light.
Due to their hardiness, monsteras can thrive in dim light. So even if your house doesn’t get a lot of natural light, you can still appreciate a lovely monstera!
The only drawback is that your monstera won’t expand as much or as quickly as it would in direct, strong light.
That’s not necessarily a negative thing, though. Monsteras, particularly Monstera deliciosa, can reach heights of up to 10 feet indoors and more than three times that outside!
We completely understand if you don’t want a huge houseplant to take over your living area. If you have a small space, you might wish to keep your monstera deeper inside the space to prevent it from growing and keep it at a size that is manageable.
However, starting with a larger monstera could be preferable if you want a large plant but don’t have much light.
Are Swiss cheese plants sun-loving creatures?
Swiss cheese plants are accustomed to the dark jungle floor, therefore they can survive in a variety of lighting situations. Chaz needs a lot of mild light, but direct sunlight should be avoided because it could burn his leaves.
The peculiar cut-outs on his leaves won’t appear if it is too dark. Although Aurora enjoys sunbathing more now, she still dislikes direct sunshine.
My cheese plant is crying, why?
I frequently see water droplets at the tips of the leaves when I check on my cheese plant in the morning. I was initially concerned that my house had a leak, but after some investigation, I learned that it really happens rather frequently.
Why then do cheese plants sob? People frequently assume it’s dew, however dew is actually atmospheric precipitation that collects on the surface of plants; cheese plants actually drip because of a process called guttation, which gives the impression that they are weeping.
Check out the details I’ve gathered below if you’re interested in learning more about the science behind this and what the cheese plant truly drops (hint: it’s not water!).
Are Swiss cheese plants mister-friendly?
The ideal indoor temperature range for Monstera deliciosa is between 60 and 85 degrees. Although it will adapt well to dry indoor environments, it favors high humidity levels. You can sprinkle it sometimes to increase humidity if you truly want to take care of it, but it’s not absolutely necessary. When watering a Swiss cheese plant, make sure the water drains out the bottom of the pot. No plant enjoys wet feet! ), then hold off on watering again until the top few inches feel dry. Avoid overwatering this plant—this is a common mistake. Monstera deliciosa prefers a little bit of dryness in the soil. If you’d like, feed the plant with a balanced liquid fertilizer in the summer and then forgo feeding it in the winter while it’s dormant.
Monstera deliciosa can be brought outside during the summer or left outside in warm climates (it’s frequently planted as a landscaping plant in warm climates like Florida). Never place it in full sunshine; instead, place it in filtered shade to prevent the leaves from burning. Before the temperature drops into the 40s, bring it back inside.
Small plants can be supported by a pole covered in moss, which they will climb, as a stake. As the plants develop, the size of the leaves grows. If you don’t stake, your plant will grow more sprawling, which is also acceptable. Although the Swiss cheese plant rarely bears fruit indoors, it does so in the wild.
How often should a Swiss cheese plant be watered?
If possible, irrigate your Swiss cheese plant every two to four weeks while checking the soil’s moisture with a skewer. Hold off on watering if it’s damp, advise the experts at The Greenhouse People (opens in new tab).
Before watering again, make sure the top 2 inches (5 cm) are dry. Additionally, it’s crucial to check that the roots are not submerged in water and that the container has appropriate drainage.
Indirect sunlight: What is it?
The two types of light—direct sunlight and indirect sunlight—are the first topic we’ll cover in our indoor plant light guide. Both of these types of light are probably present in your home; the trick is to arrange your houseplants to take advantage of each type of light.
Direct sunlight is defined as light that travels in a direct line from the sun to the plant. For instance, the majority of window sills receive direct sunshine. If your house doesn’t receive enough direct sunshine to feed your plant collection, you can also create direct light with LED grow lights.
When something blocks the sun’s path and diffuses or filters the light before it reaches your plants, this is known as indirect sunlight. Sheer curtains, furniture, a tree outside your window, or even a different indoor plant placed in front to shield the lower-light plant are some examples.
What exactly is dazzling indirect light?
In conclusion, brilliant indirect light is bright enough to read by and to cast a shadow, though not a dark, distinct one. It can be found a few feet away from south- or west-facing windows that are not sheltered, as well as close to windows that face north and east. Additionally, it can be produced by placing plants on windows that receive direct sunlight and diffusing sheer white curtains—the kind you can see through—between the glass panes.
In rooms or corridors without windows or if plants are placed in corners more than 5 feet from windows, bright adequate light for houseplants is probably not going to be present. You can use fluorescent or LED grow lights to produce bright, indirect light for such locations.
The best way to create bright, indirect light for your plants is by using your windows and the direction of the sun throughout the day.
Your windows’ orientation and how clear they are of obstructions both affect how much light your plants receive. Remember that white walls will reflect more light to your plants than dark ones.
South-facing window: Place plants that demand bright, indirect light about 3 to 5 feet away from the window or far enough back that the sun’s rays never quite reach them if your south-facing window receives a lot of sun during the day and is not shaded by surrounding trees or buildings. You can set your plants as close to that window as you like, as long as the sheer drape stays between them and the glass, if that window is shaded or covered with a sheer curtain that diffuses light.
West-facing window: The same general guidelines that apply to unobstructed south-facing windows also apply to unobstructed west-facing windows, especially those that face southwest. It often receives midday sunshine that is hotter and brighter than that coming through an east-facing window. You should therefore situate your plants 3 to 5 feet away from the window panes in these westward-pointing windows as well, or arrange a sheer screen between them and the window.
Unshaded east-facing windows receive direct morning sunshine, but the morning sun’s rays are softer than those of the afternoon sun. Therefore, a diffusing drape is not necessary when placing most plants that like bright, indirect light near or even on the ledge of an east-facing window.
North-facing window: Because north-facing windows rarely get direct sunlight, you may normally put plants that love bright, indirect light on their windowsills, where they will get the most light that is available there. You could want to put a mirror opposite the window to reflect more of the light back at the plants because even that might not be enough illumination for them, especially during the winter. As an alternative, think about getting an LED or fluorescent grow light.