When the plant is healthy, the splitting of the monstera leaves often starts between the ages of 2 and 3. Age is not the only determinant, though, and you must make sure the plant is given the right care to promote leaf splitting.
Option 1: Wait
Depending on how young and little your monstera plant is, you might just need to give it some time.
Young monsteras almost resemble a distinct plant because of their sturdy, heart-shaped leaves. Your monstera should grow and finally form those lovely holes and splits on its own when it is between two and three years old with adequate light, the proper quantity of water, and a little fertilizer. Be tolerant!
Option 2: More light!
This is typically the most crucial thing you can do to encourage your monstera leaves to split. However, without plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, monsteras won’t grow much or produce many splits (or numerous rows of splits), even though they can survive in reduced light. Your monstera leaves might not split even if you follow all other instructions to the letter without the proper light.
If you buy a mature monstera with split leaves, lower light may work, especially if you don’t want it to grow much bigger and take over your house (since monsteras often do!).
However, you’ll need good lighting if you have a young plant that you want to observe develop and flourish. The best windows are those that face east or south, while north can still be used. Just be extremely careful around windows that face west since they often receive a lot of direct, scorching afternoon light that might burn the leaves.
Don’t worry if your home lacks excellent illumination. A grow light can always be used as a supplement. To replace greenhouse-style lights that you may get from nurseries, you can either purchase ready-made grow lights or install grow bulbs in standard light fixtures.
How frequently do the leaves of Monstera split?
To begin with, the age of the plant affects the shape of Monstera leaves. You might observe that the splits emerge on the newest leaves if your monstera has some leaves with fenestrations and some leaves without. When the Monstera is old and content enough to produce mature leaves with splits, fenestrations start to form.
When a Monstera matures and forms its first fenestrations, it will be between one and three years old. When my Monsteras, which thrive in strong light conditions, generate 5–6 tiny leaves on the same stem, they usually obtain their initial split leaves. The precise quantity will change depending on your growing environment. In our article, you can read more about the ideal lighting for Monstera.
Last but not least, huge Monsteras that are 3 years or older to a few decades old can produce massive leaves. Even more fenestrations, which appear as extra rows of holes inside the splits, may arise.
It was probably propagated from a top cutting if you notice a monstera plant with enormous split leaves and no tiny baby leaves (learn more about propagating monstera in our ultimate guide). By doing this, the new plant was able to advance the maturity of its leaves.
Why don’t the leaves of monstera split?
While inadequate light is usually the main cause of your monstera’s failure to develop split leaves, improper watering or fertilization may also be an issue. You should water your monstera sufficiently to ensure that the soil never becomes dry for extended periods of time, but you should also be mindful that they dislike spending too much time submerged in water. Only fertilize your Swiss cheese plant during the warmer growth season; fertilizing too much during the winter can stunt your monstera’s natural expansion.
You can take the following actions to ensure that your Monstera is being watered properly:
Consider a nice self-watering pot if you want a flawless, set it and forget it approach to make sure your Monstera is getting the proper quantity of water. We frequently use this one from Amazon because we really appreciate it, especially when we’re going on vacation and won’t be able to keep things organized!
Monitor the moisture
Only water your Monstera plants when it is necessary. Watering your plant too much or too little can harm it and prevent it from developing enough leaves to split. Knowing when to water your Monstera will be much easier if you use a water monitor. This moisture meter from Amazon is one that we adore using.
Use terracotta pots
Plastic pots are considerably worse for your Monstera’s health than clay and terracotta ones since they don’t let as much moisture to escape from the sides. All of the moisture is retained in the soil using plastic containers. These clay pots from Amazon are fantastic.
Your monstera should begin to flourish once more if you take care to address all of the points mentioned above. In order to keep the plant generally content and healthy and to promote new development, you should try to mimic its natural environment as closely as you can.
The most important thing is to simply be patient with your monstera. While transferring it to a new location may only take a few minutes, it may take the plant many months to adjust to the new light conditions before it begins to produce split leaves. Try not to worry too much as long as your plant is healthy and growing.
Pick your timing
The optimum time to divide or propagate your monstera is in the early spring because that is when it grows. They’ll have a better chance of overcoming root stress and resuming growth.
Water before you split
Before splitting the root ball, it should be well-hydrated. Give the roots a good soak a week before you carry out the deed so that water begins to flow out of the bottom of the pot. (Your pot has effective drainage, correct?)
Make the split
Carefully tip the pot on its side and slip the plant out when you’re ready to split your monstera. To avoid breaking anything, you might need assistance holding the plant or pot.
Use a garden shovel to gently encourage the plant out if it won’t come up on its own. Do not pull the plant out of the pot under any circumstances! There is no way you want to break any stems or leaves since they won’t grow back.
Once the monstera has been removed from the pot, divide the root ball into two or more plants using a sharp, clean knife. To ensure that each new plant has lots of roots and stems, look for natural sections and divisions in the existing plant.
This is something you kind of have to eyeball and look for any locations where the plant has already divided up. This will guarantee that the plant will rapidly begin growing after the split has healed.
Plant the new monsteras
It’s time to move the individual plants into their new pots after you’ve divided your monstera into two or more plants.
Perhaps you need containers that are smaller than the one the large plant was in. Select containers with sufficient drainage that are 2-4 inches wider than the new plants’ roots. Plant in a soil with peat, such as our specialty monstera soil, that drains well.
When the plants are in their new pots, give them some water, and position them somewhere with bright, indirect light.
To promote recuperation and new development, you can begin fertilizing the plants around a month after you separate them!
How do I increase my Monstera’s slit count?
Simply let it to grow while being given plenty of diffused sunlight to get more holes. The plant’s age will result in fenestrated leaves on its own. Monster plants in their juvenile stages often pass for other aroid plants because of their heart-shaped leaves.
How can I tell whether my Monstera is content?
How can you prevent your Monstera from drowning? We’ve discussed a little bit about how to avoid overwatering it. Once you get to know your Monstera and understand all of its behaviors, you’ll notice lots of indicators that it needs water. Some of them may not come as a surprise because the indications that a Monstera needs watering are also quite similar to those that other plants exhibit.
Your Monstera’s Soil Is Dry
The primary indication that a Monstera needs watering is dry soil. A Monstera deliciosa shouldn’t thrive in arid conditions, despite the fact that it’s vital to allow the soil dry up a little bit between waterings. Although too-dry soil won’t immediately kill a plant, it will hinder its capacity to grow effectively.
Since every plant and indoor environment is unique and can necessitate a different amount of time between waterings, routinely testing the soil will enable you to determine when your Monstera needs to be watered. Using your finger is the simplest method for doing this!
If the soil is dry after sticking your finger in it for about an inch, water the plant. Don’t water your Monstera just yet if it’s moist or still wet.
Your Monstera is Leaning Over
Although it is an unusual indicator, I have observed a leaning Monstera in my collection. An underwatered Monstera will begin to sag in a manner that causes the leaves to droop, which is similar to wilting. On a little Monstera, this is much simpler to see, although it can be seen on bigger plants as well.
Always examine the soil before watering because leaning plants might occasionally be an indication of a different problem, such as overwatering. Never add more water when the earth is damp; dry soil indicates that it is time to water.
Your Monstera should bounce back within a few days after receiving a thorough watering if the cause of drooping is too little water. As much stress as possible should be avoided allowing the Monstera to become this dry as it will stunt the plant’s growth.
Your Monstera’s Leaves are Curling
Leaf curling is just another sign that a Monstera needs watering. The leaves of a Monstera that needs water will start to curl inward, making them appear smaller and less wide.
This is a temporary problem that almost always goes away with some time and some good watering! If the soil is dry, check it and give it a nice, thorough watering. Within a few days, the leaves ought to resume their regular state.
If they don’t, there might be another problem going on. Before watering once more, take some time to run a diagnostic.
Your Monstera’s Leaves are Brown, Yellow, or Dead
An alarming sign may be the yellowing of your Monstera’s leaves. Dark green, waxy leaves are present on a healthy, happy Monstera (though younger plants or new leaves may be lighter green).
Some discoloration is expected because older Monstera leaves gradually turn yellow and drop off as they become older. However, you have an issue if you notice many sections of the plant with yellow, brown, or dead leaves or new leaves.
In addition to underwatering, additional issues that might cause leaf discoloration include overwatering, excessive or insufficient sunshine, or parasites. Don’t water the plant right away; instead, take the time to inspect it for any signs of these issues.
Although older growth will occasionally die off, you should take immediate action if any leaf loss is accompanied by other symptoms like drooping or discolouration. The soil’s moisture content should always be checked as the initial step. Water the soil deeply if it is dry. Look for indications that your plant may have been overwatered if the soil is wet.
Your Monstera Isn’t Putting Out Fenestrated Leaves
With adult Monsteras that haven’t started fenestrating or that produce leaves with holes in them, a lack of fenestration can become a problem. Fenestrations are nearly always a sign that the plant is not receiving enough light.
This can occasionally be brought on by inadequate sunlight. Examine the surroundings of the plant to rule that out. Monsteras require six to twelve hours a day of bright indirect sunlight. Try transplanting the plant to a brighter location if it isn’t receiving this much light.
Set a smart alarm to remind you to inspect the soil if lighting isn’t the issue and you think your Monstera needs extra water. This will assist you in forming the practice of routine plant maintenance. You can establish the ideal watering balance by making sure the soil is moist enough many times per week. Be careful not to overwater, though!
How much time does Monstera require to develop fenestrations?
There could be a few reasons why your Monstera isn’t producing leaves with holes if you’re concerned about its lack of fenestrations. However, it almost usually stems from your Monstera’s requirements not being fully being addressed.
Let’s fast review the photosynthesis process to help you better comprehend this. A plant employs photosynthesis to transform water and carbon dioxide into glucose and oxygen. The plant uses the generated glucose to carry out its many tasks, such as growth and reproduction.
A Monstera won’t be able to properly complete photosynthesis and won’t have enough glucose to support further growth if any of these requirements aren’t satisfied. When this occurs, one of the first processes that any plant will stop doing is making new leaves.
A Monstera will frequently produce small, thin, and feeble leaves without fenestrations when it is lacking sunlight. If any leaves are produced, they will not be thick and lustrous, which makes it quite simple to pinpoint the issue.
Both a lack of moisture and low humidity can have an impact. A Monstera that doesn’t get enough water frequently stops growing entirely and, if left unattended for too long, starts to die back.
Additionally, keep in mind that a young Monstera won’t fenestrate. A Monstera typically needs two to three years before it begins to produce fenestrated leaves. Your Monstera may require more or less time to start producing fenestrations as this is merely a suggestion.
How long does a Monstera take to reach maturity?
Adult Monsteras have developed leaves, produce fruits, and have flowers. The slowest growing plants can mature in the wild in as little as 1 1/2 years and as long as 8 years (natural habitat).
We have knowledge about mature Monstera plants (adult plants), including growth practices, potential leaf appearances, and maintenance (light, temp., soil, watering, humidity, repotting, fertilizer, etc.).
You won’t receive a detailed analysis of a particular adult Monstera species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Peru, or another species.