The size of the pot you purchase for your Monstera will depend on its size.
If your Monstera is still a young plant, it will require a pot with a diameter no greater than 8 inches (20 cm). A mature Monstera plant can grow up to a two-foot pot (60 cm).
Every one to three years, depending on how quickly your Monstera develops, it will need to be re-potted.
Problems with Oversized Pot
Too much moisture will be retained in a pot that is too large for your Monstera. Root rot may develop in soil regions where there are no roots because of excessive moisture retention.
It’s crucial to avoid planting monsteras in a too large container because they dislike having their feet wet.
Does Monstera prefer large pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!
What kind of pot works best for Monstera delica?
Because you can see your plants’ roots and dirt, translucent pots are preferable. They make it simple to monitor the health of the roots, check for rot, and determine when your Monstera is rootbound and requires a pot upgrade. Additionally, you can monitor the amount of moisture in the soil, which aids in determining when to irrigate.
Although I think it’s cool, the view of the soil and roots might not be to your taste. Furthermore, very huge sizes of these pots are inaccessible.
Porous Pots
Terracotta, clay, and concrete pots that have not been sealed are porous, meaning that the materials have minute holes through which air and water can pass. Terracotta pots can offer a fantastic aesthetic and financial compromise. They are typically less expensive than other ceramic pots and may be found in the majority of hardware and garden centers.
Advantages: They typically have drainage holes, are simple to find matching saucers for, have a lovely natural look and texture, and speed up soil drying.
Cons: Heavy, difficult to see roots, and not waterproof, so if water seeps through, they could discolor the surface they are sitting on.
Porosity has the effect of causing your soil to dry out more quickly. Because Monstera prefer ventilation and good drainage, this is a great pot type to use with them. If you tend to overwater, this is an even better option! For additional advice, see our watering guide.
Non-Porous Pots
This category includes the vast majority of other pots. Non-porous materials include glazed ceramic, stone, fiberglass, resin, wood, and metal pots. Through the material or with the help of a coating, the pots have been rendered waterproof. A pot with non-porous walls will not allow air or water to pass through them.
Pros: The greatest selection of designs and colors, strong, unbreakable alternatives like metal and fiberglass, and options with drainage
Cons: When exposed to water, some of these materials may develop additional problems, such as rust on metal or rot on wood. With these kinds of pots, the roots are also hidden from view.
Without talking about soil, your choice of pot type for your Monstera is incomplete.
How do you tell when the pot for your Monstera needs to be larger?
In your home, monsteras can live a long life and develop into large, stunning eye-catchers. Normally, I’d advise repotting once a year, increasing the size of the container until the plant reaches the ideal size.
The first sign to repot a Monstera is when it’s outgrown its pot.
Repotting is necessary when the houseplant gets root-bound, which occurs when roots start to grow around the pot’s drainage holes and may be seen pushing up through them. If the roots of a smaller or younger Monstera are visible through the bottom of the container, it is definitely time to upgrade the container. To ensure that the roots continue to grow healthily, you should relocate the containers as soon as possible. Your Monstera needs more room as it gets older, just like people do.
The second sign to repot a Monstera is when the soil has been depleted.
If you press strongly with your finger in one location, water will be discharged from below, or it will start to look dry and dusty on top. This indicates that the plant’s roots are in need of moisture and are running out.
Even after the swiss cheese plant has grown to fill its lifetime pot, it’s still wise to change the soil about once a year to give it a burst of new nutrients. However, because of their high adaptability and hardiness, these plants can survive in the same soil for a number of years. It’s a good idea to add fertilizer all year long, even if you replace the soil every year. Making your own fertilizer is a simple and affordable way to enrich your container with nutrients.
When should my Monstera be repotted?
Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.
Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.
Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.
Should I mist my delicious Monstera plant?
Monstera Deliciosas may tolerate low to high levels of indirect, dappled light. Their leaves may burn and scorch if exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. Low light conditions will inhibit growth.
Make sure your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa gets enough of bright indirect light if you have one.
Water
You should spritz your Monstera Deliciosa frequently and water it once a week. In the winter, when you may only need to water your plant every two weeks, let the soil dry up in between waterings.
Humidity
Because Monstera Deliciosa prefers a humid atmosphere, we advise often wetting its leaves. To boost the humidity of the air around your plant, you might also place it close to other plants.
Temperature
Despite not having any specific temperature needs, your Monstera Deliciosa will suffer at temps below 10oC.
During the growing season, feed your houseplants every month with a general fertilizer (spring to summer).
Additional care information
From a stem and leaf cutting, you may quickly reproduce your monstera deliciosa in water. Make sure to make the cut just below a stem node.
The Monstera Deliciosa’s huge leaves are readily covered in dust over time. Use a moist towel to routinely wipe them.
Troubleshooting
Yellowing leaves may indicate that your Monstera Deliciosa has experienced moisture shock or has received too much light.
Browning leaves are a sign that your plant has been receiving insufficient light or has been exposed to low humidity.