You should have an idea of the type of pot you want to buy for your Monstera before you visit a store (in person or online) to look at them. The finest material and design for your Monstera’s new home will depend on a few factors that you must take into account.
You should consider:
- Drainage
- Watering custom
- Climate and temperature
- Whether your monstera is an indoor or outdoor pet
Drainage is a Must
The pot for your monstera must have drainage. Because they are prone to root rot, monsteras dislike it when their soil is damp for an extended period of time.
A cachepot, or pot without drainage, will retain more water at the bottom and make it more likely that the roots will begin to rot.
If you insist on using a cachepot for your Monstera, you have two options:
- Make a hole in the ground or
- Place your Monstera within the attractive cachepot in a plastic nursery pot.
Unless you are certain you know exactly how much water your Monstera needs, it is not advised to pot it directly into a cachepot without drainage.
Pots for Overwaterers
Overwatering is a common habit for plant mothers. When this is the case, a container with a free-draining bottom is ideal for your Monstera so that there is no standing water. When their soil is overly damp for an extended period of time, monsteras are highly sensitive to root rot.
If you have a tendency to overwater your Monstera, terracotta is a suitable material to use for the pot because it is porous and will wick away extra moisture.
Pots for Underwaterers
Do you frequently forget about your plants? Do you forget to water them and allow them go wilted? That’s alright!
Longer-lasting than unglazed terracotta, materials like plastic and glazed terracotta will retain moisture in the soil.
Never place your Monstera in a pot without any drainage, not even if you submerge it.
Do monsteras require soil that drains well?
Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.
How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.
Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.
Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.
Does Monstera prefer large pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. To help support this sprawling epiphyte, you may find you have to stake the plant to keep it upright as it grows larger. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!
Do the Swiss cheese factory’s drain holes need to be there?
To prevent their roots from resting in water, Swiss cheese plants require pots with drainage holes. Pick a pot that is a few inches broader and moderately deep than the root ball of your plant.
A moss pole, trellis, or other structure that your plant can hold onto as it grows will be helpful because Swiss cheese plants want to climb.
At hardware stores, garden centers, or online, you can buy pre-made trellises or moss poles. You can also create one from scratch! Here is our tutorial on creating a moss pole.
Make sure to select a quality, peaty mix or simply add a little extra peat moss to standard indoor potting soil because Swiss cheese plants need loamy soil with a lot of peat (we recommend our premium potting soil).
How to care for your swiss cheese plant
After you bring your monstera home, you should wait a week or two before repotting it to give it some time to become used to its new environment.
Place a small amount of your soil mixture in the pot’s bottom before planting. The grower’s pot should then be carefully removed from the root ball by tipping the plant onto its side. DO NOT try to remove the plant from the pot. Put the plant in the pot’s center with care, then fill up the spaces surrounding it with your soil mixture. Drink plenty of water until it begins to leak out of the pot’s bottom.
Repot your plant in a slightly larger container every year when it is young. Once it reaches the size you like, you can get away with repotting it only occasionally.
Do Monsteras enjoy submerged water?
This query has come up several times in our Monstera Resource Facebook group, so we decided to write an article on it:
If you’ve never heard of the term “bottom watering,” it refers to a method of watering in which you submerge the plant’s pot in water to allow the roots to soak up water from the bottom. Of course, if your pot has drainage holes, this will only work!
Let’s look at the pros and cons of bottom watering a monstera.
Pros:
- Bottom watering may be a better method for your plant to absorb water if its roots are wrapped.
- The leaves won’t get wet from the water. (Monsteras and other types of houseplants may occasionally experience issues as a result.)
- ensures the water reaches the lower roots (especially when done in conjunction with top watering).
- can aid in strengthening roots because they will descend toward water.
- The soil can only hold as much water as it can, therefore the risk of overwatering is rather modest. Dumping it on top won’t force more water into the container.
Cons:
- can result in an accumulation of extra salts in the soil. You should occasionally water from the top to clean out the soil to fix this.
- Bottom watering, if used exclusively without top watering, can cause the higher roots to become dry.
- Because it’s challenging to ensure your plant receives a proper amount of fertilizer when you simply bottom water, fertilizing becomes a little more challenging.
In all honesty, you’ll get a range of responses. While some individuals just top water their monsteras, others swear by the bottom-watering method. Furthermore, preferences can differ from plant to plant based on habitat, soil type, and health of your monstera.
Overall, bottom watering works well for monsteras, and there aren’t many risks involved. Every time you try a new strategy, as long as you keep a close check on your plant, you’ll be able to identify and address any potential problems early on!