Most Monstera growers have experimented with stem propagation in water, but have you ever considered leaving a Monstera deliciosa to grow in water for an extended period of time? What would happen if you kept your Monstera in water indefinitely? The majority of literature on water propagation presupposes that the plant would eventually be transferred to soil.
A Monstera deliciosa can it grow in water? A Monstera deliciosa can grow in water for quite some time, but unless it is finally transplanted to soil, it will never attain its full size or health. A Monstera submerged in water will endure, but it won’t flourish.
I think it is preferable for the plant to eventually be transferred to soil after examining the distinctions between growing plants in water and growing them in soil. Although I wouldn’t want to leave my single Monstera’s health in the hands of a wet environment, running an experiment with propagation and cuttings can be entertaining. There are a few tactics and ideas that can help you along the way if you want to try your hand at growing a Monstera in water.
How long can you submerge Monstera?
You should plan on giving your Monstera cutting around 6 weeks before planting it in soil so that roots can form.
In order to guarantee a strong root system has established for a better chance of survival, I often advise waiting at least 2-3 months.
However, as long as you change the water frequently, clean the roots, and transfer the cutting into a larger jar as it grows, a Monstera can survive in water for many months (if not years).
It is prepared to be put in soil when a lovely cluster of roots fills your container.
You can plant your Monstera cutting as long as it has five roots that are at least several inches long.
Keep the Roots Clean
Keep an eye on the roots as they grow every week, and don’t be hesitant to cut off any sections that seem unhealthy.
You can clip out roots that appear to be rotting as long as there are numerous healthy-looking roots (white, yellow, light green, and light brown).
These are typically distinguished from the others by being dark, mushy, or significantly more slimy.
In water, can Monstera sit down?
If you are bottom watering your plants, a Monstera won’t suffer any harm from being submerged in water for a few hours. Any longer than this could result in hypoxic stress at the roots, which could harm your plant.
It’s interesting to note that while Monstera can’t stand standing in wet soil for very long, it can live forever in water. You can successfully grow a healthy Monstera in water by using hydroponic methods. To keep your plant healthy, you must control the water’s temperature, pH, and nutrition level. Read more about hydroponics in my introduction if you’re interested.
In water, will Monstera’s roots spread?
The Monstera deliciosa can be easily rooted in water, just as many other plants. In addition to creating a stunning display piece, water propagation is a reasonably simple method of growing numerous new Monsteras with little effort. A few simple tools, a lot of sunshine, and lots of time are all you need.
You must locate a region of the Monstera deliciosa plant that has a node if you want to root it in water. Place the cutting in water in a location with bright, indirect light after using sharp shears to remove the plant beneath the node. After a few weeks, the cutting’s tip should start to sprout roots.
There is much more to this process than what is described above, but this quick summary gives you a decent idea of how simple it is to grow a Monstera in water. The remainder of the essay will cover the specifics of rooting a Monstera in water, what to expect from a cutting that has been propagated in this manner, and some advantages and disadvantages of water propagation.
How long can plant propagation survive in water?
We all forget to water our plants occasionally, let’s face it. And for those of us who frequently travel, returning to shriveled or overwatered greenery as a result of misunderstandings with the plant sitter is not uncommon. Yikes.
The answer is right here! Get rid of the soil and grow your plants exclusively in water. What’s not to love about less maintenance and a lovely centerpiece with the appropriate vase?
Although anthurium houseplants are typically cultivated on soil, they may thrive in water as well.
You’re undoubtedly already aware that you can take a plant cutting and re-grow it by putting it in water. This process of growing new plants is known as water propagation, and it is fairly common. The majority of indoor gardeners then transplant the cutting to soil once it has developed its own root system. You don’t have to, though!
When cultivated hydroponically, plants can consume up to 90% less water than when grown in soil-filled pots.
If you give houseplants what they need to keep growing, they may frequently thrive in water for an extended period of time. This method of growing plants is known as hydroponics, and it’s excellent since it creates a completely new way to display your indoor plants. Who doesn’t enjoy fresh foliage in a lovely vase or bottle?
It’s fascinating to be able to take a rare look beneath the surface of the soil and watch the root system form and expand in a glass container. Additionally, as was said in the introduction, hydroponic gardening is the ideal option for individuals who struggle to maintain a regular routine for watering houseplants.
So how do you go about hydroponically growing your own houseplant? Luckily, it’s not too difficult.
Which is preferable for Monstera propagation—soil or water?
Even while Monstera cuttings are generally fairly tolerant of the growing medium, location, and conditions, there are still a few things you may change to boost your chances of success or hasten your progress.
Time of year
It is not necessary to timing when you take a cutting, but keep in mind that winter, when plants are often dormant, may cause your cutting to start more slowly.
Time frame
The first thing to stress is the importance of patience. Some cuttings will immediately take root and quickly produce new leaves. Others may experience a protracted period of inactivity. Spring will frequently revive cuttings that had been dormant.
The best way to determine if your cutting is still in good shape while doing nothing is described below.
Light and warmth
Monstera cuttings thrive in warmth and light, and they will grow the quickest on a warm, sunny windowsill. It has been said that Monstera cuttings should be started with a heat pad, but in my experience, that is not true. A heat pad, however, could perhaps hasten the growth process.
Moisture
If they are in soil, they must also be maintained gently damp but not wet—wet feet are bad for them and will cause them to decay. Once a week, check their soil and, if it feels dry, give it a little water. It is not necessary to place a plastic bag over them, as is occasionally advised.
Size of cutting
More nodes and longer or larger stem sections tend to produce more new growth, including several new stems. Given that Monstera is a vine plant with a single long stem, this is significant. If your cutting produces leaf sprouts on several nodes, each of these will grow into a stem, resulting in bushier growth at a small size.
Growing medium
The benefit of propagating in water in a glass jar is that any new growth is visible right away. However, it is usually advisable to plant larger cuttings directly in the ground if they have leaves and aerial roots.
Water choice
You can use conventional tap water, but if it’s particularly hard, use caution and avoid using water that has been artificially softened. Both rainwater and distilled water are acceptable. If you submerge the majority of the stem part in water, leaves and roots will grow rather happily.
Soil mix
Use a light, freely draining potting compost when young plants and a more hummus-rich mixture as they mature.
Planting stems vertically with just the top inch above the soil is the simplest and most space-efficient approach to pot cuttings in soil.
I was concerned that for new leaves to grow, some stem nodes would need to be above the surface, but that wasn’t the case at all. Under the soil surface, new leaves began to emerge and easily pushed their way to the surface to spread out.
Potting up
If you have many stem cuttings that are housed in the same pot, you should separate them as soon as new growth appears. My own experiences indicate that, if handled correctly, Monstera are fairly resilient and don’t mind being disturbed.
You can bury the entire original stem cutting for a neater appearance rather than having to leave any of it above the soil line.
The Swiss Cheese Monster will it survive in the water?
A Monstera Adansnoii can live in water for the entirety of its life. Yes, to answer briefly. However, a few factors will determine how well your Monstera will survive in water.
Monstera adansonii is a hardy, simple-to-grow tropical plant that is native to the woods of Mexico and Panama. Its popularity has increased recently. Swiss cheese plants are known for their heart-shaped, lacy-holed leaves. They may easily reach heights of 10 feet.
It is usual for Monstera adansonii owners to wish to grow their plants in water because they grow so well as vines, and this method of plant growth can be a tidy and straightforward plan for people growing Swiss cheese plants in small flats and businesses.
Additionally, some vining plants, like philodendrons, can thrive solely in water for extended periods of time. However, Monstera adansonii is an exception to this rule. While Swiss cheese plants can grow into smaller, less hardy plants when left in water for an extended period of time, Monstera plants can be propagated quite successfully in water and can be allowed to root there for several months before being replanted.
This does not imply that all hope is lost or that there are no valid reasons to use the water growth approach; but, in order to maintain your plant’s best appearance, you will need to keep it clean and fed.
Which plants can survive in the water?
The following are a few examples of appropriate plants for water “planting: English ivy, dumbcane (Dieffenbachia), and Chinese evergreen.
Can I water Monstera from the bottom?
This query has come up several times in our Monstera Resource Facebook group, so we decided to write an article on it:
If you’ve never heard of the term “bottom watering,” it refers to a method of watering in which you submerge the plant’s pot in water to allow the roots to soak up water from the bottom. Of course, if your pot has drainage holes, this will only work!
Let’s look at the pros and cons of bottom watering a monstera.
Pros:
- Bottom watering may be a better method for your plant to absorb water if its roots are wrapped.
- The leaves won’t get wet from the water. (Monsteras and other types of houseplants may occasionally experience issues as a result.)
- ensures the water reaches the lower roots (especially when done in conjunction with top watering).
- can aid in strengthening roots because they will descend toward water.
- The soil can only hold as much water as it can, therefore the risk of overwatering is rather modest. Dumping it on top won’t force more water into the container.
Cons:
- can result in an accumulation of extra salts in the soil. You should occasionally water from the top to clean out the soil to fix this.
- Bottom watering, if used exclusively without top watering, can cause the higher roots to become dry.
- Because it’s challenging to ensure your plant receives a proper amount of fertilizer when you simply bottom water, fertilizing becomes a little more challenging.
In all honesty, you’ll get a range of responses. While some individuals just top water their monsteras, others swear by the bottom-watering method. Furthermore, preferences can differ from plant to plant based on habitat, soil type, and health of your monstera.
Overall, bottom watering works well for monsteras, and there aren’t many risks involved. Every time you try a new strategy, as long as you keep a close check on your plant, you’ll be able to identify and address any potential problems early on!
How much time does Monstera take to root in water?
, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as