Can I Repot Monstera In Winter

Repotting Monsteras is best done in the spring, summer, and through the beginning of fall. The ideal seasons to live in if you have an early winter are spring and summer. In Tucson, the fall season lasts just until the end of October.

Repotting should ideally be avoided in the winter if at all possible because plants like to rest then. I replanted this plant in mid-April, by the way.

Soil Mix to Use When Repotting Monstera Deliciosa

Note: For a Monstera, this mixture is ideal. I repot a lot of plants—both indoor and outdoor—and have a large collection. Additionally, there is a garage where all the material bags can be kept. If you only have a small amount of room, I’ve provided you with a few alternate combinations that need fewer components.

Monsteras want a compost that is well-drained and high in peat (I use coco fiber, which is comparable to peat moss but more environmentally friendly). This mixture replicates the plant components that fall on them from above and give them the nutrition they require. They grow near the bottom of the tropical rainforest floor.

When should a Monstera plant be replanted?

Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.

Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.

Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.

In January, may I repot my Monstera?

Monstera plants typically undergo one annual repotting, frequently in the early spring or the late winter. To allow for growth, young plants are repotted into planters that are several inches wider. For root pruning, mature plants are removed from their pots and then repotted with new potting soil. Repotting Monstera is best done in late winter or early spring, before the plant’s fresh new leaves begin to emerge. However, if their basic needs are addressed, Monstera plants are resilient and can endure transplanting at different times of the year.

A few justifications for repotting your Monstera plant are as follows:

  • The Monstera plant has an abnormally top-heavy habit and its foliage is wider than the pot by more than three times;
  • either through the pot’s top or its drainage holes, roots are protruding;
  • Your existing planter doesn’t make you happy (see the wonderful options above);
  • Currently, it’s either late winter or early spring;
  • The plant hasn’t had a repotting in a couple of years.

Adjust Position for Optimal Lighting

The less sunlight your home receives each day in the Winter, the further you are from the equator.

Your Monstera will slow down and undergo a pseudo-dormancy throughout the colder months due to shorter days and diminished sunlight (not a true dormancy like deciduous trees do when they lose their leaves in the Fall).

Make sure your Monstera receives as much sunshine as it can without getting a sunburn if you want it to be happy.

Keep your Monstera two to three feet away from a south-facing window throughout the winter (or north-facing, if you live south of the equator). This made it possible for your plant to receive ideal, indirect light.

Consider purchasing a grow light if your room lacks adequate lighting. You’ll need to conduct further study because the cost can vary depending on how complex a system you design.

Although a lack of light is not an emergency right away, it will eventually impede a Monstera’s growth and make it etiolated or “leggy.”

When should I no longer repot Monstera?

You will slow down your Monstera plant’s growth and never realize the full potential of these lovely plants if you keep it in the same pot for an extended period of time.

Here are 5 indicators that your Monstera is ready for a larger pot that you may watch out for. It can be difficult to tell if your plant is ripe, but if you read this post, it will become evident.

Roots coming out of the drainage holes

This is an unmistakable indication that your Monstera deliciosa probably requires a new pot. Find a pot that is one size larger if you notice roots poking through the drainage holes.

For instance, only use pots with a maximum diameter of 10 inches if your plant is in an 8 inch pot. The potting mix will dry out in a decent amount of time while allowing for more growth to take place.

I’ll provide you with a complete list of more Monstera blog posts at the end of this article, as well as a link to my in-depth Monstera care and repotting piece that you can use to repot your own plant.

Your plant has slowed down in growth (or even stopped)

Even with abundant light, if your Monstera is excessively root-bound, the development will drastically slow down.

It’s time for a bigger pot if you’ve discovered that your plant isn’t growing any longer despite favorable conditions and is badly root-bound.

Your potting mix is drying out much faster than it used to

You might find it difficult to provide adequate water to your Monstera plant when the pot fills up with roots.

Additionally, if you have been strictly adhering to a watering schedule (such as once per week), you might discover that your plant needs water more frequently than once per week.

For those of you who don’t know me, I firmly think that you shouldn’t water your plants according to a precise schedule because your plant’s water requirements can change based on the season, how tightly its roots are tied, and many other things.

Over time, roots may fill the pot, potting soil may have been rinsed out from repeated waterings, and it gets harder and harder to maintain optimum moisture levels for your plant. In these situations, it’s likely that you also have roots poking through the drainage hole, which means you need to repot the plant.

You’re starting to get a lot of yellow leaves and brown crispy leaves

Continuing from the last point, if your plant is root-bound and you’re still following a tight watering schedule, this may be the reason why the bottom leaves on your plant are turning yellow.

Your watering regimen might have worked for a while, but as soon as your plant develops root rot, it will stop working.

Feel your potting mix as soon as you notice any yellow leaves (which can have a variety of causes). Your Monstera will likely grow yellow leaves if your plant is very root-bound and you aren’t watering it frequently enough.

Another potential symptom of a severely root-bound Monstera is the development of crispy, brown leaf tips.

For a few years, my plant in the picture above has been growing in the same 14-inch-diameter pot.

Even though I’ve noticed that it’s drying out much more fast than it used to, I’m not sure whether I want to repot a plant that is taller than me.

I will thus need to water my plant much more carefully in the meantime as I wait to find the motivation to repot such a large plant in order to maintain it healthy.

Also, keep in mind that pruning your Monstera’s brown leaf tips is quite OK!

It’s been more than 2-3 years since you last repotted

Even though the passage of time alone isn’t always a reliable indicator of whether your plant needs to be repotted, if 2-3 years have passed and you haven’t done so, especially if it’s in a smaller pot or is a young plant, it’s probably time!

It’s probably time for a bigger pot if you’ve observed a combination of at least two of the aforementioned characteristics, if not more.

Here are a few more blog pieces I published about caring for Monstera plants that you might like. I hope you enjoyed this one on when to repot Monstera.

Do monstera plants prefer little pots?

Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.

Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”

When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?

During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.

How much light does a Monstera need?

Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.

When should I fertilize my Monstera?

Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.

Should I re-pot my Monstera?

The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.

Light

It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.

Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.

Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.

Watering

The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.

Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!

In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.

Fertiliser

As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.

Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.

Repotting

Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.

It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.

Propagation

After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.

The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.

Common Problems

Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.

The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.

Outdoors Care

When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.

This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!