Once established, cacti are hardy, tolerant plants that require little maintenance. They are particularly drought tolerant because they store water in their stems. If the cactus stem or roots are damaged, the wet, nutrient-rich inner tissues are exposed to disease fungus and bacteria, making the plant prone to plant infections. The best defense against harm to your cactus is vigilance. With the right care, broken plant stems and damaged roots can frequently be repaired or revived.
Understanding that a broken cactus’ stem or joint cannot be put back in place is the first step in dealing with the situation. The majority of the time, there will be a crack around the break, preventing it from being effectively re-joined. If your cactus has two symmetrical halves, you should leave it alone rather than risk causing it more harm.
Cleaning the pieces
Use a soft brush to remove any undesirable dirt and debris from the region near the break. Clean the area surrounding the wound and inside it well using a solution of warm water and mild detergent. In order to prevent infection and rot, it is crucial to get rid of any dirt and bacteria residues. Use a pair of sterile scissors or tweezers to carefully remove any dead tissues that are obstructing the wound’s ability to heal.
Avoid touching or applying pressure to a stem’s underside if it is spiky, as it is in many species, as this will only make the harm worse. Instead, apply green leaf gel to the region to help the healing process and reduce scarring.
Take care of the cambium
Always make sure the cambium is aligned before reattaching. The green living tissue layer immediately beneath the bark is called the cambium. It will be beneficial to use a piece of stem from a healthy plant to replace the broken one because cacti typically develop new stems from the cambium. Wood glue should be applied around the wound and the replacement should be securely held until it dries.
After a damaged cactus is successfully fixed, the biggest worry is keeping it from being infected because the new stem lacks any built-in defenses against pathogens. Due to the fact that they draw dust, mites, and other pests that could harm your plants, keep your prickly companion away from windows and drafts. Dehumidifiers should also be kept close to cacti that are growing or blooming because this makes them more vulnerable to decay and fungal illnesses.
Dealing with the remaining half
Your injured cactus may occasionally be split in two with the top portion missing. Even if a wounded cactus only has one-half of its stem left, it can still be saved. New stems will gradually emerge from the plant, and once they are big enough, you can cut them off. Be patient; this process could go on for years. Your cacti may live a long time and become as thorny as you like with proper maintenance.
Another method for fixing a broken cactus is grafting. This entails applying fragments of roots or stems from other plants to the injured area. After a year of neglect, you might think about repotting your cactus into a bigger container to allow the graft to develop freely. Once healed, your spiky pet won’t ever look ugly again. The best thing is that, in addition to teaching you what to do if the cactus breaks, you may repeat this process as much as you wish without harming the plant.
Re-planting as an option
You can think about propagating the broken piece as a new plant if it cannot be repaired. Remove any unnecessary pieces by taking the removed piece. Keep the stem out of direct sunlight and put it in a glass of water.
Plant your cactus cutting into the soil-based potting mix whenever new leaves start to emerge, then move it to a bright area of light. While you wait for new roots to emerge, water well and keep an eye out for growth. You can enjoy your newest family member by placing them in direct sunshine once the new stems have grown strong enough. Just keep an eye on it to prevent rot or infection, which would worsen the condition of your other indoor plants.
Can a cactus that is broken live?
As long as the damaged component is otherwise healthy, a broken cactus arm or stem segment can be used to grow a new cactus. If your cactus has spikes, never forget to wear protective gloves. Until the ends of the plant piece harden and start to callus, allow it to sit in a cool, shaded area for about a week.
How long does a cactus cutting take to recover?
Remove a pad from a cactus plant before propagating it, then let the pad’s cut end heal for about a week in the shade. Robert Morris
I wish to multiply my bunny ear and prickly pear cacti. Should I plant the cuttings in the ground right away or should I first grow them in a container and then plant them in the ground?
A: You can bury cuttings made from them in the soil. Put the pot away. It is not required. Wait till the warmer months of March or April.
Take a pad from the plant you are propagating, and leave the pad’s cut end to heal for about a week in the shade. Use a sharp, clean knife to bend the pad over without breaking it to accomplish this.
The suture where the pad connects the mother plant should be rubbed with the knife’s sharpened edge. At the suture, the pad ought to simply pop off. If not, smoothly cut through the suture by gently inserting the knife’s sharp edge into it.
Dust the cuts in the pad with a fungicide such as Thriam, copper sulfate, or Bordeaux if you truly want to prevent infections. When you place the pad in the shade to heal, lean it against something so that it is upright because if you set it flat, the pad will start to curve.
Compost and water should be incorporated into the soil where you are planting. Place the pad with its flat sides facing east and west. Place the pad in the ground about a third of the way down, and then water it once. The plant will then start roots into the dirt where it is trapped if you water it roughly every three weeks after that.
In my garden, there is a 3-year-old passion fruit tree. In February, it began to produce fruit that grew well and was ready to be eaten. On the same plant, I also had other blossoms bloom in the spring, but they never bore fruit. The same thing happened again this past summer, but the flowers are only just starting to bud.
A semi-tropical vine that produces passion fruit struggles to survive in subfreezing conditions. It also prefers moderate temperatures, so the hot summer months will be challenging for it. Tropical climates and Africa’s high altitudes with temperate temperatures are ideal for its growth.
These plants will suffer severe damage or perhaps perish in the winter if your landscape lacks a warm microclimate. You should be able to cultivate passion fruit vine if you can grow oranges in your yard. Due to the high temperatures and little humidity throughout the summer, passion fruit may have trouble bearing fruit.
Without a doubt, the passion fruit does not enjoy ill-drained soil. If this is the situation and you do nothing to fix it, the vine will probably perish. When planting, ensure that the soil is modified with compost. Then, cover the space surrounding the vine with woodchips to a depth of about 3 feet so that the chips can breakdown into the soil.
Although the blooms of the passion fruit are lovely, they may require assistance to bear fruit or bear fruit that is larger. It may be necessary for you to manually pollinate the blooms by moving the pollen from one blossom to the next, a task that is often carried out by a variety of bees.
It could be necessary to plant two distinct vines and move the pollen from one vine’s flower to another vine’s flower. This lessens the likelihood of what is referred to as “self-incompatibility and fruit development failure.”
Fresh passion fruit seeds grow quickly and thrive when planted in their own roots. Cutting-grown passion fruit exhibits self-incompatibility between blossoms and won’t bear fruit.
After the fruit has been harvested, you should also trim the vine by cutting side shoots. This encourages new growth to emerge from the vine’s older wood, where blooms are created, and maintains the vine rejuvenated for increased output.
In addition to trellising this vine and occasionally cutting it back after fruiting, cover it with wood chips at the base to maintain soil moisture and prevent the fruit from falling if the soil becomes too dry. After the plant has flowered, treat it lightly by sprinkling a tomato fertilizer on the soil surrounding it and watering it in.
What are the best procedures to follow if I choose to let the calamondin fruits degrade on the ground beneath the tree? Or is it preferable to dispose of the fruit that has fallen?
A: Calamondin, also known as calamansi in the Filipino culture, is a little citrus fruit with a bright yellow interior that resembles a lime. Philippines is the original home of this fruit.
Fruit can turn orange, but it’s usually picked when it’s still green since the internal flesh is golden yellow. On our farm in the Philippines, where we have a tropical climate, we have about eight calamondin, and they thrive there.
Regarding citrus farming in the Las Vegas Valley, let’s be clear. Due to their semi-tropical habitat, many citrus species run the risk of losing their fruit or even their trees in very harsh winters and early spring freezes. Even the hardiest of oranges cannot grow in some areas of the valley over the majority of the years. They can be grown in other regions with warmer winter microclimates. Have fun and develop them as long as you feel comfortable with that option.
In my opinion, the ground beneath all fruit trees ought to be clear of rotting, mature fruit. If very young fruit falls to the ground and decays, it normally doesn’t cause any issues.
Unripe fruit that has been removed from the trees and placed on the ground can easily decay. A distinct problem can arise if mature fruit is dumped on the ground.
If this tree had full fruit that had fallen to the ground, we would undoubtedly clean it up if it were a peach, fig, apricot, or plum tree. If fallen fruit is not picked up from the ground, a pest known as the dried fruit beetle can become a problem, infesting soft, mature fruit that is growing on the tree.
The only pests to be concerned about with citrus are rats and mice. I would pick up any fruit that had fallen to the ground and dispose of them instead of letting them spoil and attracting vermin.
By the way, calamondin grows well from seed and may be grown without grafting, unlike the majority of commercial citrus trees.
My bamboo shoots have started to turn yellow and have a white film on them after a number of them fully died. Any recommendations?
A: Since you didn’t specify which bamboo it is, I’ll guess it’s one of the varieties that can withstand our winter weather. The bamboo species that adapt to our environment the best are the so-called “running bamboos, not the clumping varieties.
It’s common for the outside of the stem to have a white coating that is sometimes referred to as a wax bloom. You might be looking at mealybugs if these are instead white fuzziness in patches and seem to be an issue. But rather than a pest issue, I believe the cause of this white coating is the naturally occurring wax that many plants produce.
Yellowing may result from water that cannot drain from the soil surrounding the roots and suffocates them as a result of inadequate drainage or frequent watering. This plant doesn’t always need water, despite what you may believe. For healthy growth, the soil must be kept moist, but it must also be allowed to breathe so that the roots and rhizomes may acquire enough air.
Buy a soil moisture meter for indoor plants for $10. Push the probe carefully into the ground to measure the soil’s moisture at a depth of 4 to 6 inches as long as the ground is slightly pliable.
I wouldn’t start watering until this gauge’s meter registers roughly “6 at this depth in three different places. On these gauges, No. 1 is completely dry and No. 10 is drenched in water.
The yellowing may be caused by an alkalinity issue with the soil, but I believe it is more likely caused by poor drainage. Bamboo should be planted on soil that has been amended with compost and then the soil should be covered with woodchips out to a distance of two to three feet when planting. If drainage continues to be a significant issue despite soil amendments, plant it on a mound.
How is a cactus treated?
HOW TO SAVE A DIEING CACTUS AND RENEW YOUR PLANT
- REMOVE ROTTING COMPONENTS. Overwatering is typically indicated by rotting.
- CHANGE THE DAILY LIGHT.
- REVERSE WATERING.
- RINSE OFF DUST AND GREEN.
- PEST & INSECT CONTROL.
- FERTILIZE WITH LOW NITROGEN.
- ALLOW THEM TO DRY
- WATCH FOR DISCOLORATION & MUSHY SECTIONS.
How does cutting my cactus in half affect it?
I have a giant column cactus that is around 48 inches (122 cm) tall and unknown in type, as shown in the photo below, according to BassetsforBrown. The issue is the thin central area, as you can see. I inserted rods into the ground to support it since I’m worried that if I leave it alone, it may collapse under its own weight. According to what I’ve read, the best course of action is to remove the slim part, replant the top part, and grow two distinct cacti if I want to keep it going strong. The optimal time to do this, according to what I’ve heard, is during the growing season, but since I reside in New England, the cactus has been indoors and dormant for a while. I have a few queries because the current weather allows me to bring it out of hibernation.
No matter whether the knife is straight or serrated, make sure to sterilize it with alcohol just before making the cut. Always cut at an angle; flat cuts cause water to collect in the center, which can result in rot and/or fungal issues. Before planting in new, dry cactus mix, allow the top portion to callus entirely along the cut. According to my estimation, callousing should be complete in 3–4 weeks. When the cut is still new, I strongly advise applying fungicidal powder to it (sulfur powder works excellent). Before you pot it, keep the top shaded; once you pot it, allow it to gradually adjust to full sun. Even though I am unsure of the species, my gut feeling tells me that new roots should begin to form quickly. New roots are those short, white sprouts you observe coming out of the ground. Don’t water your cutting until you see roots establishing themselves. With lots of growth season still available, you’re exactly on time, and I believe the outcomes should be favorable for you.
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