Many times, insects like mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites cause a cactus to appear white.
These pests lay their eggs inside the cactus needles, and when the eggs hatch, more pests are produced.
On the leaves of the cactus, they subsequently exude a fluid called honeydew that promotes the growth of rotten mold.
A cactus that has been eaten away by bugs will have white or pink patches all over it.
How To Treat Pests Infestation
If discovered early enough, a cactus that has become white due to pest infestation can typically be treated.
Watch your cactus for any indications of insects, such as brown or black patches on the leaves and fading foliage, to determine when this has to be done.
If you notice these signs, your cactus is probably being attacked by some kind of bug.
In addition to saving the plant, treatment is necessary to stop further bug eggs from hatching and reinfesting other plants in your garden area.
Spray neem oil or an insecticidal soap on the cactus leaves to get rid of these dangerous insects.
How To Prevent Pests Infestation
The most important thing is to preserve cactus plants in a well-lit area with lots of sunlight.
This will make your cactus more resilient to any flying insects that could potentially spread an infectious virus or disease.
These locations frequently have other plant species, which may have germs on their leaves that can infect cacti just by coming into contact with them.
Last but not least, adequately water your cactus while being careful not to overwater it in order to prevent it from wilting away from dehydration.
Why is the color on my cactus fading?
Some symptoms can indicate major issues that could ultimately cause your plant to die. In case you still have time to save your cactus, make careful to take action as soon as you see any of these symptoms.
Discoloring
Cacti plants typically begin to lose their natural color when under stress or pressure. The discoloration may start at the top end of stem segments or from the plant’s base, depending on where the true problem is.
Death is almost certain if you do not act quickly in cases of severe discolouration.
Your plant become wobbly
If your cactus has started to sway, you should be concerned as this is an obvious indicator of root rot. Remember that since succulents grow slowly, indications of underlying issues manifest gradually as well.
It’s possible that the roots have already become irreparably rotting by the time you notice the symptoms.
The cactus may already be in a serious condition if the base of your plant has turned yellow or brown.
One of the most frequent causes of cactus death is by far root rot. A lack of rigidity and turgidity in the plant’s leaves and stem is a common symptom of root rot.
Take your plant off the ground, find all the rotting roots, and cut them off to try and save it.
Depending on the degree of rot, rotten roots could seem brown or even blackish, whereas healthy roots would be pale in color.
Presence of soft segments around the plant
Most often, stem sections will appear fragile and swollen along with discoloration. These pieces are easily breakable with little effort.
Pulling a spine off is the simplest approach to determine whether there are any soft segments around your plant. You should be concerned if it comes off without any effort and slips off easily.
Fungal infection
Another indication that a cactus plant is dying is a fungus infection. Fungal infections are simple to spot since they cause lacerations in the cactus plant’s tissues. Any area of the exterior tissue, including the areolae, can get lacerated.
There are several various forms and hues of fungi, but there are only two that are widespread.
A fungal infection is indicated by the presence of brown dents on the plant’s exterior tissue that are rounded in most places like half-moons. Another indication of a fungus infection is the formation of white-gray patches.
Despite not being as harmful as root rot, fungus infections on the aerial section of the plant are nevertheless detrimental.
Spraying your plant with a natural fungicide is the best approach to stop future harm caused by such illnesses. To cure such infections, the majority of people prefer using tea tree oil diluted in water.
As an alternative, you could soak the impacted regions in alcohol for until long is necessary. Consider chopping off the afflicted region and sterilizing the wound, but only if the infection was too serious and has already harmed a portion of your plant.
Foul smell coming from your plant
You should be concerned if your cactus plant starts to smell awful because this is a warning indicator. If the plant has a bad scent, it probably can’t be saved because a large portion of it is fully rotting.
In other words, your plant is dead and no longer in the process of dying. If you still need a cactus plant around, your only option in this situation is to get rid of the old one and buy a new one.
I have a cactus, how can I get the white off?
We apologize, but Mr. Smarty Plants needs some time to catch up after receiving an overwhelming amount of mail. Soon, we hope to be taking new inquiries once more. I’m grateful.
ANSWER:
Before, Mr. Smarty Plants responded to a query regarding cholla cactus cochineal bug management (similar to your prickly pears). What Larry and Brigid Larson wrote is as follows: Cochineal feeding can harm the cactus and occasionally result in the host plant’s death. The Cactus Doctor talks about getting rid of cochineal. Their advice is as follows: 1) A hose with a power nozzle attached to the end. 2) It was advised to clean the affected areas with insecticidal soap or unscented dish soap to treat them if the infestation gets out of hand. Neem oil was also mentioned as a possible natural remedy.
In response to another Mr. Smarty Plants query about cochineal bugs on prickly pear cactus, Nan Hampton provided the following response. (As you can see, this is a common query.) It sounds like cochineal bugs are infesting your cactus (Dactylopius sp.). They are cactus-eating small scale insects. They generate fluffy white wax that covers their body as they consume the cactus and shields them from predators as well as the weather (especially drying out). The fluffy wax also acts as a sail or balloon to carry the bugs to a fresh cactus patch in the breeze. The carminic acid that the bugs create aids in shielding them from predators, particularly ants. Indigenous peoples of southwestern North America, Central America, and subtropical South America have been using this bug’s carminic acid for centuries—possibly millennia—to synthesize a vivid red dye that they utilized to create exquisitely colored fabrics. Cochineal bugs were formerly only found in the New World. The cochineal bug spread around the world when European explorers came to a place and saw the stunning red cloth made by the locals. Although they have also been employed to help reduce cactus populations, the need for cochineal bugs decreased when a synthetic red color was created. But recently, there has been a resurgence of interest in cochineal bug cultivation for red dye because it was discovered that synthetic red dyes can have harmful side effects on health. Today, food coloring and cosmetics both employ the bug-derived dye. Because of this, managing cochineal bugs hasn’t really been a top concern, and as a result, I haven’t been able to discover a lot of information on managing them. If you only have a minor infestation, I advise scraping them off (slowly, to avoid the cactus spines) and throwing them away. They might also come off with a water under pressure wash. To ensure that you don’t harm your cactus, test a tiny area first. Then, collect and get rid of any insects that you wash off the cactus.
The University of Arizona Extension also suggests a similar set of remedies in a publication on cactus diseases.
The usage of insecticides was discussed on multiple websites, and Wikipedia included several natural predators: “The population of the bug on its cacti hosts can be lowered by a variety of natural enemies. Insects appear to be the most significant group of predators. Numerous parasitic wasps as well as predatory insects including ladybugs (Coleoptera), different Diptera (like Syrphidae and Chamaemyiidae), lacewings (Neuroptera), and ants (order Hymenoptera) as well as pyralid moths (order Lepidoptera), which kill cacti, have all been identified.”
Here is more information on the intriguing world of the Dactylopius coccus cochineal scale insect and the carmine dye that was highly sought for fabric dyeing in the 15th century.
What can I do to make my cactus greener?
Yes, but it also depends on how badly the plant was hurt. The cactus has a higher chance of recovering if the damage is not too serious. The first step in treating an overwatered cactus is to stop providing water to the plant. If you have the plant watered, say, once a week as per your timetable, stop and let it dry up and recover.
What causes the whitened succulents?
Throughout the summer, generous watering of succulents is advised. Between waterings, their potting mix should be let to dry out; do not submerge. Reduce watering to once every two months in the winter, when plants go dormant.
The most frequent reason why succulents fail is overwatering (and the potential plant rot it can bring about). An overwatered succulent may initially swell up and appear to be in excellent health, but the cause of death may already have begun to take hold underground, with rot rising from the plant’s root system.
Succulents that have received excessive water have softer, discolored leaves that may turn yellow or white and lose their color. Even though a plant in this state may be beyond saving, you can still take it out of its pot to look at the roots. Cut out the dead roots and repot the plant in drier potting soil if the roots are brown and rotting. Alternatively, you can take a healthy cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Similar to how a plant that isn’t getting enough water will first cease growing before losing leaves. On the other hand, the plant could get brown blotches on its leaves.
How frequently do cacti need to be watered?
The most frequent reason for cacti failure is improper watering, whether it is done too much or too little. Cacti have evolved to store water for extended periods of time and can maintain moisture through droughts because they are endemic to arid regions and dry temperatures. They have a limited capacity, which is why over-watering can result in a variety of issues.
When it comes to regularity, watering your cacti will largely depend on the season but also on the variety. Checking the soil is the easiest technique to determine whether your cactus needs water: It’s time for a drink if the top inch is dry. That entails applying the “soak and dry procedure” on cactus.
What is the soak and dry method?
The soak and dry technique is thoroughly wetting the soil until part of it begins to flow out the drainage hole, then waiting until the mixture is nearly dry before wetting it once more. If done properly, this strategy will help them endure a period of under-watering should you need to travel or leave the house because it takes use of their natural tendency to store water (or if you just get busy and watering falls to the wayside, as happens to all of us now and again).
Watering during the growing season versus the inactive season
Like with many houseplants, the season affects how frequently you need water. It becomes more crucial that you get in the habit of examining the soil to determine whether your cacti are thirsty. A healthy cactus needs watering every one to two weeks during the growing season, according to general wisdom. The frequency changes to once every three to four weeks during the off-season.
Even then, it’s crucial to examine the soil. Not all cacti are the same, and not all indoor environments are the same. The only way to be certain that your cactus require watering is to carefully examine the soil to determine how dry it is because there are so many different factors.
Method #1: Cut Off The Infected Area
To start, use a sterilized knife or pair of clippers to remove any patches of fungus on the cactus plants.
Then, depending on the fungicide you use, treat those healthy areas once every two weeks for six to twelve months.
Follow the directions on the fertilizer container to fertilize your plant as necessary to encourage development and stop further disease outbreaks.
Additionally, make sure that it receives consistent watering throughout this time and try to avoid letting it become completely dry in between waterings since too much moisture may result in black patches in addition to root rot issues!
Method #2: Use Baking Soda and Hydrogen Peroxide
One of the most common methods is to make a baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution.
Pour two teaspoons into an empty spray bottle along with one quart of warm water.
Whenever you notice any indications or symptoms, such as leaf spot, that fungus on cactus plants has resumed its attack, spray your cactus plants well until they are completely moist, including the undersides and tops of leaves.
For six weeks straight, you should perform this procedure at least twice a week to completely eradicate the fungus on your cactus plants.
Method #3: Make Your Own Fungicide Solution
In an empty spray container, combine one tablespoon of liquid soap, hydrogen peroxide, and baking soda with one gallon of water.
To totally get rid of fungus on cactus plants, spray it abundantly onto your plants every two weeks for at least six months!
Method #4: Spray With White Vinegar Solution
Another choice is to carefully dip the leaves into a solution of one part white vinegar (or apple cider vinegar) to four parts water in an empty plastic bucket or container. Do this until the leaves are completely moistened but not dripping wet.
The fungicide that has remained on the surface should be allowed to dry naturally rather than being rinsed off because doing so will only remove around half of it. It is therefore better to leave it alone.
This remedy must be used within a week if it is homemade. If you purchase it, be sure to keep it in a dry, cold environment.
Method #5: Clean Your Cactus Plant Thoroughly With Soap and Water
The easiest option is to just give your cactus plant a thorough washing every day, or at least every other day, with soap and water, especially after working near them while they are dusty.
Before applying fungicide using method number three above, make sure to clean up any dust since it acts as an insulator to prevent fungi from drying out.
Spray two quarts of lukewarm water with one tablespoon each of liquid soap, hydrogen peroxide, and baking soda to clean all leaves, including the undersides.
Method #6: Use a Fungicide Solution
Fungicides can be used to treat your cactus plant if it develops a fungus infestation.
Fungicides come in a variety of forms, some of which function better than others and serve distinct needs. Be careful to pick the proper one for your situation!
Keep in mind that even if just one or two leaves exhibit symptoms, it is still crucial to spray them down because, if left untreated, this disease will soon spread throughout the entire plant.