Cacti are low-maintenance houseplants that don’t often need repotting, but when they do, it’s crucial to do it properly and correctly. It is time to transfer your cactus if the roots begin to protrude through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot or the plant seems to have outgrown its container. Cacti normally only need to be transplanted every 3–4 years, or every 2–3 years for kinds that grow more quickly.
Sharp spines are a common feature on many cacti species, which serve to defend the plant. This makes transplanting cacti a challenging and occasionally risky task. Use of a towel or folded newspaper is one of the greatest ways to properly transplant a cactus. Purchasing a pair of sturdy, protective gardening gloves is another smart move. Avoid using fabric gardening gloves in place of heavy canvas or leather since most textiles are easily penetrated by cacti thorns.
When the plant has started its active growing season in the early to midspring, it is ideal to transplant cacti. This will make sure the cactus has the energy to bounce back from being handled and adapt to its new surroundings.
Warning
Wearing protective protection while transplanting a cactus is always advised because most cacti contain sharp spikes that are painful and challenging to remove from the skin if they come into touch.
How do you move a cactus without damaging it?
There aren’t many ways to repot a cactus without getting pricked and hurt. Wearing nitrile coated gloves (may be two pairs or double coated) and utilizing folded newspaper may be sufficient to handle small to medium sized cactus.
Utilizing silicone tongs is an additional technique for handling little cactus (not metal ones). Be very cautious with your cactus and avoid pinching it. Use foam sponges or anything comparable as well.
You must be careful not to harm the roots that are wrapped around the main root ball. Try to remove a cactus from its pot by turning the pot vertically. If you wait three to five days before repotting your cactus, it should be simple to perform.
Use this technique if your cactus isn’t coming out on its own. The top soil layer should be removed with a thin wooden stick or something similar. Then, while holding the cactus and using folded newspaper for particularly spiky cacti, gently tap the pot against the table to see if you can slide it out of the pot. By pulling your cactus in this way, you risk damaging its incredibly thin and delicate roots.
How to handle and repot a large or tall cactus with sharp spines
You must exercise extra caution if your cactus is large and tall, grows outdoors, or both. When moving your cactus, put on your nitrile-coated gloves and use some folded newspaper. Additionally, you could wrap your cactus in a large towel.
If you’re having trouble getting your cactus out of the pot, try using a wooden stick to push the rootball out of the drainage holes.
You can smash the pot or chop the cactus if nothing else works to get it out. If your cactus still won’t emerge after you cut the pot, you can use a hose to spray water on the roots of the plant. This will soften a rootball. You don’t want to hurt your plant, so always be kind. Remember that you must wait for the roots to dry after spraying them before potting them into a new container.
To ensure that the roots of your cactus dry out, hang it. Put something underneath the huge cactus to provide support (for example some bars under the cactus so it is hanging). Additionally, hanging it outside the pot will help the roots dry out more quickly.
Before planting the cactus, you must dry the roots if you used a hose to shower them.
After you have removed your cactus from an old pot
You must clean the rootball and get rid of old soil after taking the cactus out of its old container. Dry soil should make this task simple. However, if the soil has dried and you are unable to clean it, put the rootball in a plastic container and soak it for 20 to 40 minutes in warm water (about 122 degrees F or 50 Celsius).
Wash the rootball with water to remove any remaining soil after it has softened. Dry the rootballs of your cactus for 12 to 30 hours to ensure full drying.
A helpful suggestion would be to hang your cactus so that the roots are upright. This will hasten the cacti’s transition to a new pot and preserve the roots’ healthy natural shapes. The rootballs of your cacti will sprout more plants if you wash and soak them in warm water.
Take a look at cacti’s roots
Examine the roots after removing your cactus and removing any remaining soil by shaking (or washing) it off. You must inspect the roots to look for rotting and parasites. You must use micro-tipped pruning shears to remove any visible rotting roots.
Another option is to use tiny scissors. However, be sure to sanitize the blades with alcohol, a flame, or boiling water and antibacterial soap before cutting any bad roots.
Wash off the dirt and dab some alcohol on cuts if you notice any damage or cuts in the roots. Before putting the cactus in the pot, let the roots dry.
Place the cactus in its new pot
Place your cactus in the pot after looking at the roots. It ought to already be partially filled with gravel or rocks, charcoal, and dirt on top. Insert your cactus, then begin slowly filling in the sides with soil.
While adding the soil and once you are finished, pat the earth lightly without using any instruments. Be sure to leave the top layer’s soil free by 1-2 inches. Your cacti may be more susceptible to root rot if the dirt is overfilled in the pot.
You can water your cactus after about 5-7 days. Add extra soil on top if it has greatly drained. Two to three weeks after repotting, a good cactus should become sturdy and feel at ease in the soil. Your cactus’ roots are unhealthy if it is unsteady and need additional support.
What to do after you have repotted your cacti
You must give your cactus a 7–10 day period of relaxation after repotting. When your cactus are resting, avoid watering them. Additionally, throughout these 7 to 10 days, you need to stop any water from the cacti’s stem from evaporating. The stem will dry out if you don’t do this, which is really crucial.
Take your cactus to a cool, dark location, and cover it with a white transparent plastic veggie bag to make sure water is not evaporating from the stem. Spray your cactus with little warm water after 4-5 days and cover it again if the room becomes too hot. Take the cactus out and plant them in their permanent location after 7–10 days have passed. Additionally, after repotting, water them for the first time.
During the first month or two, you may notice additional growth and possibly even flowering if the repotting was successful.
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Can a cactus be dug out and replanted?
Mature cactus plants may need to be relocated. It might be difficult to move cacti in the landscape, especially huge ones. Due to the spines, thorns, and other deadly armor most of these plants have, this technique really puts you in more danger than the plant. Cactus transplants can be carried out throughout the year, although the optimal period is in the cooler months. Here are some pointers for safely transplanting a cactus without endangering yourself or the plant.
How is a potted cactus transplanted?
Plants should be hardened off (acclimated) to direct sunlight and frost by being placed outside in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade before the last date for frost (early to mid-May). Unless frost is anticipated, avoid going outside at night. Bring plants inside if there is a threat of frost; let them outside the next day if it has warmed up above freezing. To keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, water as needed. Continue for around 10 days, after which the plants will be prepared for planting and unaffected by either frost or sunburn.
All hardy cacti and succulent species need soil that drains quickly. The ideal soils are loamy, rocky, or sandy.
Place succulents and cacti in your garden on a slope, on a raised area (like a berm), or in a level place that doesn’t retain water after rain or snowfall. Pick a bed that receives direct sunlight.
To guarantee appropriate drainage in heavy clay soils, it is crucial to replace half or more of the dirt from a 10×10 or bigger hole with coarse sand and small gravel that have been thoroughly mixed with the remaining soil. To the planting hole, add a handful or two of Yum Yum Mix.
Utilize a planting mixture consisting of two parts garden soil, one part coarse sand, and one part aggregate (coarse perlite, red volcanic scoria or expanded shale). To the dirt, add some Yum Yum Mix.
planting a pot indoors Use Black Gold Cactus Mix and expanded shale to mix with the sand for indoor potted plants (or red volcanic scoria). Use a ratio of 2:1 potting soil to coarse sand to shale or scoria.
Transplanting bare-root is recommended for cacti, agaves, and tap-rooted succulents (Aloinopsis, Titanopsis, and Nananthus). For a few days, allow the soil in the pot to dry out. The earth should slip away from the roots once you remove the pot and gently loosen it. Any broken roots should be cut off. 2 to 3 inches of earth should be added to the planting hole. After that, uniformly distribute the roots like a skirt and fill the hole with the adjusted soil. The soil should be on top of the plant’s base. To keep the plant’s base from drying out and from coming into contact with damp soil during the winter, mulch the area with a 12-inch layer of pea-sized gravel.
Ruschia, Delosperma, Sedums, and other succulents with fibrous roots don’t need to be transplanted bare-root; instead, the root ball should be scored and roughed up like other perennials.
When growing cacti in the summer, place a tall rock or board on their south side to provide shade for 7–10 days. This aids with cactus acclimatization and prevents sunburning of the stem. Using Bobbex ANIMAL Repellent 32 oz., repel rabbits. Ready-to-Use.
Wait a day or two (but no longer) before watering bare-root cacti and tap-rooted succulents to give the roots time to callus over any broken or damaged regions. You can start watering additional succulents right soon. Including Medina Fish Blend as a root stimulant to promote robust new root growth, at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. For the first month or two, use Medina Fish Blend multiple times a day.
fresh plants After transplanting, outside beds should receive watering at first once every 5 to 7 days for around a month. During the summer heat, cacti and succulents benefit from routine irrigation and develop quickly. If there hasn’t been enough rain after the first year, most cacti species simply require a good bath once every 2-4 weeks in the spring and summer.
New outdoor potted plants need weekly watering during the summer, especially if it’s hot and dry outside. Indoor plants in pots require watering every 7 to 10 days.
How frequently should I plant new cacti?
Rebutia and mammillaria cacti make lovely, low-maintenance house plants and are ideal for a sunny, bright windowsill.
Cacti should be grown in specialized cactus compost or free-draining compost for optimal results. Terracotta pots work best for cacti because they are porous and allow air and water to circulate about the compost. Plastic pots are more likely to retain moisture, which could lead to root rot. Less frequent watering and careful monitoring of the cactus compost are advised when growing cactus plants in plastic containers.
Contrary to popular belief, cactus require watering in the spring and summer. Between waterings, let the compost somewhat dry out until September, when watering needs to be scaled back to accommodate dormancy.
Repot your cactus every three to four years or when the roots extend over the edge of the pot to prevent them from becoming pot-bound. This is the procedure.
Which containers work best for cacti?
The pot or container you choose for your cactus is crucial and might have an impact on the health of your plant. We will discuss many best and worst cacti pots and containers in this article. We’ll also discuss the advantages and disadvantages of various pots and the significance of size and shape.
Cacti and their growth are significantly influenced by the type of container, its form, and size. While some containers are ideal or excellent, others are completely inappropriate.
Importance of cacti pot/container shape
Before we discuss container materials, let’s discuss another crucial aspect. Take care of the container’s form while buying one for your cactus. When purchasing a planter for your cactus, some qualities to consider include the following:
- The size of the container should be similar to that of the cactus. This is so that, if planted in a large container, cacti’s roots, which are frequently not very long, will remain in the middle of the container.
- Cacti grow well in cylinder, short, and square pots. Avoid selecting containers that are overly deep, tall, or small.
- All of the dirt in the container should be “used” by your cactus. Therefore, there shouldn’t be an excessive amount of dirt that the cactus roots can’t penetrate. Only leave enough room around the plant for growth and drainage in the bottom.
Size of pots for your cacti
As we’ve already established, your cactus, and more specifically its roots, should practically be the same size as the pot. The best plan is to take your cactus outside and examine its roots before selecting a pot or container. Remove a cactus from its current container, examine the roots, and measure them.
Your cactus needs a wide container if its roots are short but growing to the sides, and a deeper container if its roots are long and spreading outward. Additionally, you’ll need to give room for drainage, so a pot should be just a little bit deeper than the roots.
To make your cactus comfortable in the pot, while picking a pot, add around 1-2 inches in width (to your plant’s full width). Depending on the type of cactus you choose, the depth of the container should be between 4 and 7 inches. Cylindrical cacti, for example, have lengthy roots, whereas other varieties have shorter roots (such as ball cacti).
Ceramic terracotta or glazed ceramic pots/containers for cacti
Among the advantages of ceramic planters are:
- Pots made of ceramic are sturdy and weighty.
- Ceramic pots come in a variety of styles and colors, many of which are glazed, making them a great option for ornamental settings.
- Ceramic pots’ porous nature prevents water logging or accumulation (provided you have potted your plants in the right soil mix).
- They are lovely and stunning in any environment.
- They are appropriate for the colder months when it is not as heated outside.
Several drawbacks
- Terracotta planters in particular are porous and minimize water buildup, however this can be detrimental to young seedlings and plants. This indicates that the soil will dry up more quickly, especially if you leave your cactus outside and during hot weather. You can forget about it, but frequent watering can also cause the pH of the soil to rise. In the section on selecting soil for cactus, we talked about how the pH of the soil should be acidic. However, larger plants thrive in ceramic containers.
- To avoid having to drill the drainage holes yourself, make sure the ceramic pots include them. Drainage holes are necessary, but they might not be present in all ceramic pots.
- Cactus roots may not penetrate the soil completely and instead focus on the sides. This occurs as a result of the ceramic container’s water evaporating quite quickly and leaving behind mineral residue on the sides. The roots of cacti lean to the sides in an effort to reach these minerals, but they can only burn themselves because the sides of the planters heat up.
- Ceramic pots are more likely to develop mold.
- Ceramic utensils may crack (especially with children or pets).
Make sure to choose the appropriate size and shape when selecting a ceramic planter. This set of three ceramic planters for small plants serves as an illustration of a ceramic pot or planter for your cacti.
Plastic pots/planters/containers for cacti
Plastic planters are another kind of container that is excellent for growing cacti in.
benefits of using plastic containers to cultivate cacti:
- Plastic containers are portable and lightweight, making them simple to transport.
- Less watering will be needed to maintain soil in a plastic container because it will dry out more gradually. In comparison to ceramic pots, this means fewer watering sessions.
- Cacti do well in plastic pots since they don’t overheat easily and can retain heat even after the sun has set. Because most cacti don’t enjoy quick temperature drops, this is a useful feature.
- The low cost of plastic pots offers an additional benefit.
- To avoid waterlogging, most plastic containers feature numerous drainage holes. Additional holes can be drilled if necessary.
- The roots of cactus do well in plastic containers because they spread out uniformly across the soil. This is because roots won’t lean to the sides of a plastic container since water won’t evaporate through the sides. Additionally, the acidity of the soil will last longer.
- The likelihood of mold formation is decreased.
- Both little and large adult cacti do well in plastic containers.
- If you bang on them from a table or windowsill, they won’t break.
Hanging containers for cacti
For your cacti, you can also choose hanging basket pots. Smaller or larger trailing cactus can grow in hanging pots. Additionally, you can use them to indoor or outdoor adorn your home. Make sure your hanging pot has drainage holes and perhaps a saucer to catch any water that may drip from it as many hanging pots lack these features. These particular plastic pots allow you to drill your own holes in the bottom.
Bad containers for growing cacti
Let’s start by stating that growing cactus in glass pots is not recommended. A cactus terrarium is often made in a glass container. This is not the same as letting a cactus develop for several years. Cacti do not appreciate humidity or waterlogging, thus terrariums are not the best environment for them.
Glass cactus containers have several advantages.
- For a special occasion, you may assemble a lovely terrarium with cacti and take the plants out right away (maximum of 2-3 weeks). If you’re making cacti terrariums, only use open glass containers. Plant cacti together only if their requirements are comparable. For making a cactus terrarium, you can add decorations like colored sand, shells, and figurines. Utilizing small, recently-planted cacti is the best option.
Cons of using glass cactus containers:
- Glass containers are very unlikely to have drainage holes, which can lead to water logging and a buildup of moisture. This will result in root rot, which will ultimately kill your plant. You must exercise caution and give your plant some water each day, but doing so runs the risk of preventing water from penetrating the soil completely and reaching the roots.
- Even an open terrarium is susceptible to fogging up and having an elevated humidity level within. Cacti require sufficient airflow and detest humidity.
- Your cactus won’t be able to absorb water from the rocks in the bottom layer of soil if the dirt is layered. Roots cannot obtain water from rocks, and neither can rocks absorb it.
- A glass container’s sides will quickly heat up and may burn your cactus and its roots. Your cactus may actually be cooked to death if you put it in a terrarium out in the sun.
Metallic containers for cacti
Cacti cannot be grown in metallic pots. This is due to the possibility that rusting metallic containers could seriously harm cactus.
Additionally, metallic containers quickly experience excessive heat and cold, and cacti detest abrupt temperature fluctuations.
Conclusion: Ceramic (terracotta and glazed), plastic, and hanging (may be ceramic or plastic as well) pots are the ideal containers/pots for growing cacti. Glass containers should only be used temporarily (or not at all), and metallic pots should be avoided.