What To Spray On Succulents For Bugs

Pests that eat the healthy stem of your succulents, such as aphids, mealybugs, and scales, are easily controlled with insecticidal soap. It is quick and very efficient, making it one of the Best Pesticides and Insecticides for Your Succulents, which is why many gardeners prefer to use it. Some people prefer using this over rubbing alcohol because they think it works faster and better. Use caution when applying this to leaves, though. Chemicals can mix with oils and damage epidermal tissue. It’s easy to use this spray; just spray it on the bug-infested area and wipe the pests away.

Here are a few insecticidal soaps that shouldn’t be used on your succulents because they are toxic to insects.

Safer insect killing soap

Since this soap is powerful, follow the instructions on the label and use it in equal parts with water. Apply the mixture straight to the stems of your succulent plants after creating it to witness the effects.

Bonide systemic insect control

Because it is best for them, this spray can be used to outside plants. The liquid remains on the succulent for some time after being sprayed on it. Therefore, the bugs perish as they attempt to munch on your leaves.

Bonide eight insect control

This spray kills all types of insects and pests from your plant and is suited for indoor succulents. Once more, this is a concentrated liquid; therefore, before spraying it on the succulent, be sure to dilute it with water.

It will improve your understanding of them and provide you with information on how to use them most effectively.

For gnats, what should you spray on succulents?

Gnats frequently start to appear in and around your succulents, both indoors and outdoors, when the weather is warm.

The good news is that they won’t harm your succulents and that most of the time it’s not too difficult to get rid of them.

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If your succulents aren’t in well-draining soil or don’t dry out between waterings, your pots could be a very alluring breeding place for these pests because fungus gnats LOVE damp soil.

This issue can be avoided by letting the soil entirely dry out in between waterings. Since the larvae are already present, this will also aid in their elimination. Without water, your succulents will survive for a few days or even weeks.

An apple cider vinegar trap will work to eliminate the flying gnats. Just add some apple cider vinegar to a plastic cup, maybe a couple tablespoons. Put a few drops of dish soap in. Put a plastic bag over the cup, but pierce it with a finger-sized hole.

The gnats can fly in because of this, but they find it challenging to flee. The dish soap either traps them or weighs them down while the vinegar’s sweet aroma draws them in.

Additionally, you can cover your soil with food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE), which will kill any adults or larvae that come into touch with it.

The simplest technique to get rid of gnats is to keep your soil dry, which also benefits succulent plants. So make sure the soil you use has good drainage.

Does bug spray work on succulents?

Sprays of insecticide are helpful against a variety of garden pests, including those that frequently inhabit succulent plants. Pests can be temporarily eliminated by spraying the plants with pesticides like acephate, dimethoate, dinotefuran, or pyrethroids that have been diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Insects can subsequently reinfest your succulents if you don’t kill them completely on the neighboring plants as well. Apply only as often as directed on the product’s label.

Is spraying succulents necessary?

The most crucial points to remember while watering succulents or cacti in pots without drainage are to apply the water slowly and to let the soil dry between waterings.

We prefer to water using a spray bottle with the stream setting on the nozzle. Aim the water at the succulent’s base and the tops of the pebbles or soil. Applying just enough water will allow the roots to absorb the liquid without drowning them. To be clear, we do not advise spritzing or spraying your plants. Actually, spraying or misting a succulent or cactus plant won’t do the plant any good; instead, you want to aim the water at the plant’s base or roots.

In general, we advise watering cacti and succulents once every 14–30 days and once every 10–14 days, respectively. These suggestions may change based on the pot’s depth and the solar exposure. A deeper pot and lower light level would necessitate a longer interval between waterings, whilst a shallower pot and more sun may necessitate an increased frequency.

You might want to water more frequently if you have more sunlight or a shallower pot, while less frequently if you have less light or a deeper pot.

Will my succulents be harmed by soapy water?

Although any soluble soap will work, liquid soaps are kinder to plants. Even less harsh will be insecticidal soap. However, you can just rinse after using dishwashing liquid. Plant the cactus only when it has totally dried out.

Why do my succulents have tiny bugs on them?

Mealybugs are disgusting little insects that like munching on succulent plants’ fresh growth. It’s difficult to pinpoint the specific reason why they appear, however overwatering and overfertilizing are frequently to blame. Due to the more mild temperatures, they frequently appear on indoor plants, although they can also be seen on outdoor succulents.

In the crevices of your succulent, these tiny creatures normally hang out in a white substance that resembles a web. Right where the leaves meet the stem is where they like to hide. They are consequently difficult to see and to kill.

Mealybugs can swiftly spread throughout a succulent and to other succulents nearby if they aren’t treated very once. They move so swiftly, which is both impressive and annoying. They consume the succulent as they move. This frequently stunts the plant’s growth, making the new growth oddly shaped or smaller than typical. If they remain too long, they could also leave some dents in the leaves.

Why do my succulents have small flies around them?

The short answer is yes, fungus gnats are damaging the roots where you can’t see them.

They are a pest in addition to being a nuisance. But don’t worry; getting rid of them is not too difficult.

Start by ceasing to water. Again, STOP watering. Completely. Don’t water AT ALL, as in. None of the spritzes, sprinkles, or sprays.

The microscopic maggots that make up these gnats dwell there until they hatch into adults, therefore they can only exist (and breed) in moist environments containing organic materials in the soil.

Fungus gnats on succulents are a sign of two things: first, that you’re watering them excessively, and second, that the soil in which they’re growing is the improper one.

The soil must be gravelly and well-drained for succulents. Your plants will likely be in the convenient peat-based soil that many growers use for every kind of plant they grow, especially if you purchased them from a distributor that purchased them from specific growers.

The issue is that, despite the fact that the plants grow well in this soil under their conditions (bright and warm), even if it is simple for them to get and utilize, once the plants are in your home and you overwater them, fungus gnats start to appear.

So, in addition to waiting until the soil is bone-dry before watering, you’ll need some kind of mulch, such as tiny aquarium pebbles, to prevent adult insects from getting to the soil.

Many of the flying adults will be caught by the unattractive but necessary yellow sticky traps, but don’t stop using them too soon because a fresh crop of newly hatched ones will soon emerge from the ground.

Other things to try;

  • As they flutter around, the adults are immediately vacuumed out of the air. a lot of labor.
  • Hydrogen peroxide diluted with water can be used to water your plants to destroy the larvae stage (I’ve never tried it; use at your own risk).

Finding 3 percent hydrogen peroxide without any additions is advised. Dilute it with 4 parts water and apply it right away to hydrate the soil. Although it will fizz up, all of the soil-dwelling larvae are killed.

  • As a last option, repot all of your collection in fresh soil and throw away the infected soil; if you compost it or retain it, the situation will only become worse.

Some commercial potting soils, like Miracle Gro and others, appear to cause greater problems than others. Make sure the potting soil you choose has been pasteurized or sterilized.

Insecticidal Soap Spray

Sprays made of insecticidal soap are among the best ways to get rid of spider mites on succulent plants.

Making your own pesticide soap spray at home assures that you only use natural pest control agents that won’t hurt your plants.

In a container with five gallons of water, combine water and mild dishwashing liquid to create an organic spider mite treatment (note: do NOT use anti-bacterial dishwashing solutions).

Use a spray bottle to immediately treat spider mites and other contaminated parts of your succulent plants with this spider mite control solution until it drips from the plant leaves.

Neem Oil Spider Mite Treatment

A natural remedy for spider mites on succulents is neem oil spider mite therapy.

Natural elements in this pesticide-free spider mite treatment make it safe for family members and pets while also effectively controlling spider mites.

It deeply penetrates the leaf surface, killing eggs, nymphs, adults, and even their webs!

Neem oil should not, however, come into contact with the eyes, therefore you must use caution when using it on the spider mites nearby.

Flush Them Out with Water

Spraying spider plant water on succulents will drown out any spider mites that are there.

As soon as you find these pests, use a spider mite control spray and wash the mites off your plants to prevent further harm to the leaves of your developing succulent plants.

For prompt relief, blast spider mites with a powerful stream of water from a showerhead or hose pipe.

Alcohol Spider Mite Treatment

Simply fill a spray bottle with with rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, then thoroughly spray the plant, making care to cover both leaf undersides.

Make sure plants are not exposed to direct sunlight when employing this spider mite control method for efficient spider mite elimination.

Diatomaceous Earth for Spider Mites

Effective spider mite removal for succulents is possible with diatomaceous earth treatments.

The non-toxic and efficient treatment for spider mites in most plants is diatomaceous earth!

A thin amount (about two teaspoons) should be scattered around the base of the plant, especially under the leaves where you frequently see these pests.

This diatom dirt works by progressively dehydrating them while not damaging any living plant parts by scratching their exoskeletons!

However, be careful not to allow the powder come into touch with water, as this will reduce the powder’s efficacy as a pesticide.

Beneficial Insects to Control Spider Mites

For the prevention of spider mites on succulents, utilize beneficial insects like ladybugs, green lacewings, and praying mantis.

These naturally occurring predators are ideal companions for any garden because they prey exclusively on spider mites.

You can cultivate flowers and herbs like dill, fennel, clover, or other flowering plants that are reputed to be spider mite-repellent to draw spider mite predators.

Mouthwash Spider Mite Treatment

Treatment for spider mites using mouthwash is a successful pest management strategy for succulents.

To get rid of spider mites without harming any plants, simply combine one part mouthwash with nine parts water and spray the mixture straight on the pests!

Chemicals in mouthwash interrupt the spider mites’ digestive processes or rapidly dehydrate them, killing them.

However, when using any spider mite treatment, be mindful to avoid disturbing or placing these plants in direct sunlight!

Common Mistakes with Succulents

The majority of the horror stories you’ll come across online stem from a few simple errors.

The following are a few of the more typical ones:

  • NEVER spray commercially available, pre-mixed neem on succulents. Neem oil starts deteriorating as soon as it is combined with water, so by the time you receive the product, it has probably severely deteriorated. Furthermore, you have no control over the ingredients in sprays that weren’t made by you.
  • NEVER mist plants in direct sunlight. The majority of succulent plants may get severe leaf burns if their leaves become moist while being exposed to the noon sun, because Neem oil degrades when exposed to UV radiation.
  • ALWAYS test before making a thorough application. One cannot emphasize this enough, especially with regard to succulents. Never spray the entire plant with your neem spray; instead, apply a little amount to a single leaf or piece of stem and wait 24 hours to see if there is a negative reaction. You should adopt an alternative approach if the plant exhibits any signs of distress because this indicates an allergy or oversensitivity to neem.
  • On delicate plants, NEVER use raw neem oil as a foliar spray. Azadirachtin can result in serious burns and is much more harmful than beneficial. Instead, save the raw Neem for soil soaks and just use the clarified Neem for sprays.
  • Neem should NEVER be used with other liquids, even isopropyl alcohol. Additionally to occasionally causing a reaction, many of the web advice are detrimental to your plants. The only ingredient for neem oil that is thought to be secure when used as an emulsifier is insecticidal soap.

Neem Foliar Spray

Clarified hydrophobic neem oil is used in neem foliar sprays, the most popular type of neem therapy.

Azadirachtin has been mostly eliminated from this variety of neem, with only.5 to 3 percent Azadirachtin left.

When dealing with delicate plants, always aim for 1 percent or less until the infestation doesn’t show indications of abating after two weeks of treatment.

Emulsify 1 teaspoon of liquid Dawn dish soap, insecticidal soap, or pure castile soap should be added to 1 quart of water before gently blending.

Avoid spraying the flowers or the exposed roots, but make sure to catch the undersides of the leaves as well as any joints or crevasses.

For a total of 14 days or until the infestation has disappeared, repeat the treatment every other day.

In order to protect beneficial insects and reduce your danger of becoming sunburned, it would be best if you only sprayed at dark or morning.

In 45 to 1 hour, the neem will vanish completely, leaving no trace left.

Special Fungicidal Recipe

This mixture will work on many succulents to control external fungal diseases, but you will need to test each item separately for potential sensitivities.

If the infection hasn’t progressed too far, remove any dead leaves and clip away any clearly affected leaves; if it has, you might need to leave those leaves alone.

Next, add two teaspoons each of clarified Neem oil and either olive or almond oil, as well as one teaspoon each of rosemary and peppermint oils.