- Copperstone Sedum
- Vygies of Lampranthus
- little aloes.
- A. Parryi.
- Echeveria Agavoides.
What succulent can withstand direct sunlight?
The vast genus Agave contains succulent plants that grow in rosette formations. They do well in sunny environments with some little shade or full sun. There are many different agave species; some are small plants that don’t reach heights of more than 10 feet, while others are enormous. They can be grown in soil, creating a beautiful and intriguing landscape.
They may also be cultivated in containers or pots. Depending on the place they originate from, certain agave plants are more tolerant of cold than others. The majority of agave plants are extremely resilient and can withstand severe sun and heat.
Can you grow succulents in full sun?
Succulents generally require at least 4-6 hours of sunshine each day to thrive. They enjoy being in places that are sunny and bright. Lack of sunshine will cause difficulties in succulents such elongation or etiolation, when the plants extend for more light. Weak stems and low growth are the results of this procedure. Lack of light causes succulents to lose their bright coloring and turn pale or back to a drab green tone. Plants that receive enough sunshine will display their whole spectrum of brilliant hues, showing their genuine beauty.
Which succulents thrive in intense heat?
Just as each succulent has a somewhat different water requirement, so too do their preferences for and tolerance levels for heat. For instance, the majority of Aeoniums favor lower temps. Since they are winter growers, the summer’s heat might be problematic for them when they are dormant.
Many cacti prefer warmer climates and can survive under intense heat. Agaves and aloes both have a decent tolerance for heat.
Researching your succulent’s tolerance for heat and sunlight is the best method to find out. Start by classifying your succulent into its appropriate genus and species, and then look it up in online plant databases.
The presence of the same plant being grown by others nearby is typically a clue that it can withstand the local climate.
I discuss 5 succulents (other than cacti) in the video below that thrive in hot conditions.
Can succulents endure the heat of the sun?
Don’t allow the hot, harsh sun hurt your succulents! Unlike frost (temperatures of 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower), heat normally poses no threat to succulents. The majority of plants can tolerate temperatures higher than you’re comfortable with, as shown by greenhouse temperatures that rise into the triple digits on hot days, despite the fact that some don’t seem to thrive in temperatures above 80 or 90 degrees F. Succulents, though, can succumb to heat and sunlight. All smooth-leaved succulents, excluding desert cacti and agaves, require sun protection in the summer, especially when the temperature rises beyond 80 degrees.
If you live in an arid climate ~
- Identify the sun’s position relative to your property. In North America, plants growing on the north side of your house will receive the least solar exposure while those growing on the south will receive the most. My garden, which faces east, receives early sunlight and midday shade. West-facing gardens receive early shade and afternoon sun.
- When temperatures are at their highest in the middle of the day, “bright shade” (no direct sun but not deep shade) is great for non-desert succulents. For low-light succulents like haworthias, bright shade is needed. Visit our website’s Shade Succulents page to learn more. View my video about Shade Succulents.
Above: Although robust, the echeverias on the left in the brilliant shade have lost their color. The borders of those exposed to more sun are red, but they are smaller due to some stress.
- Keep track of where each new plant you purchase was situated in the nursery. Was it in the open or covered by a tarp? It will need to be “hardened off” (shaded, especially in the afternoon) until it acclimates, even if it is a “full sun” succulent like an agave. This kind of exposure is like tanning: Start with 30 minutes of sun, then gradually increase it by about an hour per day.
- Aloes and crassulas need at least a half-worth day’s of sun to turn red and orange, but not so much that the tips of the leaves shrivel or burn. (Read “How to Stress Succulents and Why You Should. “).
Above: This jade (Crassula ovata) is stressed by heat and dryness. To maintain its life, the plant is gently draining its leaves. However, leaves will be plump and greener after irrigation or rain (which could take months).
- Cover exposed, horizontal stems of trailing succulents (aloes, senecios, othonna, and the like) with dry leaves or mulch to prevent burnt stems from impairing the ability of the plants to transfer moisture from roots to leaves.
- Use floating row covers (preferably), shade cloth, old sheets, or temporary shade structures to protect newly installed plants and in-ground succulents prone to sunburn. I employ rusty window screens. In an emergency, place upright leafy tree trimmings next to a plant you wish to preserve, on the side that receives the most sunlight. Or, in keeping with the sun’s movement throughout the day, use outside furniture.
Above: Aloe brevifolia, a stunning but stressed plant, has closed its rosettes and changed color from blue to pink.
- Learn how plants defend themselves. When the sun becomes unpleasant, succulents can’t flee to the shade, so some species create their own. Succulents with rosettes, such dudleyas, aeoniums, and some types of aloe, close their rosettes to save their critical cores. Lower leaves that become dry but don’t drop off serve a service by protecting flimsy stems from the sun in the summer and the cold in the winter.
- Where shade will be needed during the long, hot summer afternoons, plant trees and plants. (The Companion Plants chapter in Designing with Succulents, 2nd ed., has information on low-water cultivars suitable for succulent gardens.)
What sunburn looks like
The floppy leaves of this agave stretch (and weaken) the cells in those areas that are most exposed to sunlight.
Succulents with white, beige, or black patches have been sunburned, which causes irreparable cell damage comparable to frost. The plant is alright, but scars will endure just as long as the leaf.
These aeoniums generally have sunburn on the underside of their lowest leaves, which they will shed in a few months anyhow. Very effective, wouldn’t you say?
Several months later, the same aeoniums. Only a few scorched leaves are still visible.
It is preferable if the damaged parts are on the outer leaves because fresh growth from the rosette’s center will eventually cover up burnt spots. In any event, lower leaves naturally wither and fall off, damage or not. Recovery from a sunburn could take several months to a year, depending on the succulent and the time of year.
Summertime Succulent Watering. Okay, everyone is aware that succulents require little water. They aren’t “no-water plants,” though. Even though they might make it through the summer without irrigation… [Read more…]
A heat wave shouldn’t ruin your succulents. Succulents that are exposed to the scorching sun may burn when a heat wave follows cool weather. The beige or brown patches that develop as a result of sunburn cannot be removed. [Read more…]
Succulent Stress Management (and Why You Should). Some succulents exhibit beautiful reds and yellows when exposed to lots of sunlight, but how much “stress” the plants need depends on… [Read more…]
Does Jade enjoy the hot sun?
Succulent houseplants like jade plants are remarkably hardy and simple to grow indoors.
In addition, they can live a very long time with the right care! Find out how to take care of your jade plant.
About Jade Plants
Jade plants have a tiny, tree-like appearance with their thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves that makes them highly tempting for use as a decorative houseplant. When planted indoors, they can grow to a height of three feet or more and survive a very long period, frequently being passed down from generation to generation.
Jade plants thrive in the warm, dry environments seen in most homes. During the growing season (spring and summer), the plant must be kept moist, and during the dormant season, it must be kept dry (fall, winter). Jade is extremely prone to rot, thus the soil should be allowed to completely dry out between waterings even throughout the growing season.
In locations with a mild, dry climate all year round, jade plants can be grown outdoors as landscape plants (typically Zone 10 and warmer). It is preferable to grow jade in containers and bring them inside when the temperature drops below 50F because they are quite sensitive to cold damage (10C).
How to Plant Jade Plants
- Because jade plants have a propensity to become top-heavy and topple over, choose a broad, sturdy pot with a modest depth.
- Use a soil that can drain well since too much moisture might encourage fungi that cause diseases like root rot. You can use a general-purpose potting mix, but you should add more perlite to it to improve drainage. The ideal potting mix to perlite ratio is 2:1. Alternately, use a pre-made potting mix for cacti or succulents.
- Don’t water a jade plant right away after planting it. The roots can settle and heal from any damage by delaying watering for a few days to a week.
A thick, scaly trunk that gives older jade plants its iconic tree-like look may emerge. Trambler58/Shutterstock provided the image.
How to Start a Jade Plant from a Leaf or Stem Cutting
Jade plants are succulents, making them incredibly simple to grow from solitary leaves or cuttings. This is how:
- Take a stem cutting or a leaf from an established plant. A 23-inch stem cutting that has at least two leaf pairs would be considered ideal. The callous that forms over the cut region will assist to avoid rot and promote rooted. Once you have your leaf or cutting, let it sit for a few days in a warm environment.
- Get a pot and some potting soil that drains properly. Use fairly moist, but not soggy, soil.
- Lay the leaf horizontally on top of the dirt, burying the cut end partially in the soil. If you have a stem cutting, plant it upright in the ground (if it won’t stand on its own, support it with a few small rocks or toothpicks).
- Put the pot in a cozy location with strong, filtered light. Avoid watering.
- The leaf or cutting will begin putting out roots within a week or two. Give the plant a light poke or tug a week or two later to check if it has roots itself. Wait a little longer and test it (gently!) every few days if it hasn’t already.
- Water the plant well and gently after it appears to have taken root. To water the plant delicately without significantly upsetting the roots, use a tool similar to a turkey baster. You want to encourage the roots to grow downward for water, not towards the surface, so make sure you don’t only soak the top layer of the soil.
- Once the plant is well-established, keep it out of direct sunlight and let the soil dry out between waterings.
- At least six hours of bright light per day should be provided for jade plants. Large, established jade plants may tolerate more direct sunshine; young plants should be kept in bright, indirect sunlight.
- Kitchens and offices with south-facing windows are frequently fantastic places with just the right amount of light, as are windows with a western orientation.
- Low light conditions can cause jade plants to grow lanky and top heavy, making them vulnerable to injury if they topple over or lose the ability to hold their own branches.
- Jade plants like somewhat cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (down to 55F / 13C), but they grow best at room temperature (65 to 75F / 18 to 24C).
- It should be noted that jade are not frost tolerant, so if you leave yours outside during the summer, bring it inside as soon as the temperature drops to about 50F (10C) in the fall.
- Jade plants should be kept out of drafty locations and away from cold windows throughout the winter. Jade plants may lose their leaves if exposed to freezing temperatures.
- It’s crucial to properly water jade plants. The main problem that most people have with their jade plants is improper watering.
- The plant will need more water in the spring and summer when it is actively growing than at other times of the year. Jade plants should be deeply watered (enough moisture should be absorbed into the soil, not only at the surface), followed by a wait period during which the soil should largely dry out before you water it once more. This implies that depending on how rapidly the soil dries out in the location where you keep your plant, you can end up watering it once a week or once a month.
- The plant may go dormant in the fall and winter, which will cause it to stall or stop growing altogether. It won’t require much water during this time. Water it even less frequently than you would in the spring and summer, letting the soil completely dry out in between. Large, mature jades may only require one or two waterings during their whole dormant season.
- When watering, try to avoid sprinkling water on the leaves because this might cause rot in a humid atmosphere.
- If your tap water is not perfect, you should use distilled or filtered water to water jade plants because they can be sensitive to minerals in tap water.
- It is a sign that the plant needs MORE water if it begins to drop its leaves, shrivels up, or develops brown spots on its leaves.
- The plant is receiving TOO MUCH water if the leaves start to wilt and become soggy.
- Jade plants shouldn’t be fed frequently, as they don’t need a lot of nutrients. Use a diluted mixture of a typical liquid houseplant fertilizer or a cactus and succulent fertilizer.
Repotting Jade Plants
- Being root-bound in a small pot doesn’t bother jade plants. In actuality, keeping them tied to their roots will make the jade smaller and easier to handle.
- Every two to three years, repot young jade plants to promote growth. Repot older jade as necessary or once per four or five years.
- Early in the spring, right before the growth season starts, transplant.
- Don’t water the plant for about a week after repotting. Before fertilizing, you should wait at least a month to avoid unintentionally burning new roots.
If exposed to enough light, some jade cultivars can grow crimson leaf tips. Mauricio Acosta Rojas/Shutterstock photo
There are numerous varieties of jade plants, ranging from the common, green-leafed jade to several variegated species. Some intriguing jades to look out for include the following:
- The lovely leaves of “Hummel’s Sunset” have yellow and crimson tips.
- ‘Tricolor’ has leaves with white and cream variegation.
- The tubular leaves of “ET’s Fingers” have red tips. a peculiarity
- The leaves of mature plants can be used to create new jade plants. For more information, see the Planting section (above).
- Keep a jade plant root-bound in a tiny pot and withhold water to induce flowering. Wintertime temperatures that are cooler also encourage blossoming.
- Some people consider jade plants to be a symbol of luck and fortune; they are one of numerous plants known as the “money plant.”
- Jade plants make excellent gifts that can last a lifetime and be passed down from generation to generation due to their long lifespans and resilience.
- Under stems and leaves, mealybugs or scale may be hidden. Use a spray bottle of water to get rid of the pests, or gently wipe them off with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel or cotton swab. The bugs’ offspring must be eliminated through repeated sprays. It could be preferable to take a clean cutting from the plant and start over if it is overly infested.