Since the plants are all in pots and the roots are clearly visible, it is simple to spot healthy roots in the store. Place the plant on its side, hold the stem between two fingers just above the soil, and carefully slip it out of the pot.
How do strong roots appear? Healthy roots should be long enough to keep the soil in the shape of the pot, white or tan in color, succulent, and abundant. If there are any visible root tips, they should be white.
The plant is unhealthy if the roots are dark and brittle. AVOID BUYING IT. The plant is still healthy but not yet ready for transplant if the roots are very small and don’t hold the form of the soil.
If you can keep it in the pot for a while, only purchase it. The plant is root bound if the roots are round the pot in a way that leaves little area for soil. It will probably be okay if you buy it and transplant it, but it will take some time for it to acclimate and start growing nicely.
How can I tell if the roots of my succulent are rotting?
A succulent plant’s yellow, shriveled, and limp leaves are a sign that the roots are decomposing. Succulents decay, why? Either culture or fungus may be the cause. It is typically a problem brought on by poorly draining soil and excessive wetness.
What should the roots of succulent plants look like?
Succulents are tough, so even if their leaves, stems, or roots sustain minor injury, they’ll keep growing and flourishing.
 
Succulent roots that are healthy always have veins, are white or light in color, and are long enough to hold the dirt in the shape of your pot. In addition to looking moist, healthy roots taper in thickness away from the rootball. Don’t transfer your succulent if its roots can’t exactly retain the majority of the soil in the pot; instead, wait until it has expanded a little more before repotting.
Let your succulent grow a little bit more before repotting if its roots can’t quite hold the majority of the soil in the pot.
What are the signs of sick root systems?
Examine the roots of plants that are housed in smaller containers (larger plants are more difficult). Generally speaking, a plant will be healthier if its roots are whiter. Although the color of a plant’s roots may change as it ages, the same principle still holds true. A sick plant will have roots that are brown, black, mushy, or rotten. There could also be a decaying, unpleasant smell. Any of the following factors could be to blame for the issue’s emergence:
- Under- or overwatering
- soils with poor drainage
- extreme dryness
- Diseases that cause root rot
- excessive salts or toxic materials in the soil
Learn more about your plants’ root systems if you are taking care of indoor plants in your house. Keep in mind that plants’ roots require both water and air when you water them (they drink, but they also need to breathe). This will help us keep our plants healthy, more attractive, and most importantlyalive!
What does a succulent stem that is unhealthy look like?
On its leaves, a sick succulent will display the following indicators: leaves that are turning brown, orange, or yellow. leaves with dead leaf patches along the border. perforations in the leaves.
What do the roots of a dead succulent look like?
Even though you believe you have overwatered the plant, it is still best to check to make sure this is the real problem. Let’s examine the following to confirm that overwatering is the primary issue.
How does the soil appear, first?
It’s clogged with water and wet. Instead of individual soil grains, you will receive clumps of soil.
What are the initial indications of overwatering?
A succulent may frequently exhibit certain warning signals before to drowning from excess water so that you can save it before things get worse. Take action right now to save your succulent if you see any of the following symptoms in your plant.  
- Discoloration and a change in the form of the leaves are the first indications of overwatering that you should look out for. The leaves will begin to turn yellow or pale (beginning at the bottom), soft, and squishy, as you can see.
- The second warning sign to watch out for is if your succulent starts to lose its leaves very easily, even with a small touch or sway as it fills up with water.
- You’ll notice that the leaves start to turn brown or black if overwatering persists. When this starts to occur, your succulent is either rotting or infected with a fungal illness brought on by too much water.
Discoloration and a change in the shape of the leaves are the first indications of overwatering that you should look out for.
3. Describe the appearance of a wilting succulent.
A decaying succulent will have stems that are either brown or black and squishy, as well as black leaves that begin at the base of the plant. All of these are signs that your succulent is already decaying from the roots up as a result of too much water, and if you don’t act quickly, the plant will soon turn into a mushy mess.
The lower leaves of a decomposing succulent will appear to be black. Image source: succulents101
What do the roots of a rotten succulent look like?
1) Examining the Sources Take the succulent out of the pot, shake off the soil, and examine the roots’ color. Either white or yellow roots are indicators of health. Root rot is present if the roots are either dark brown or black and feel slimy and damp to the touch.
How can I determine the health of my succulent?
Succulents are fashionable and trendy plants to have about your house or place of business, but they can be difficult to maintain. We are here to assist you in maintaining the health and vitality of your planted bundles of delight. This blog post will teach you how to correctly water your succulents, where to keep them, and how to recognize the telltale indications of a succulent in trouble.
Starting Off On The Right Foot
You must begin with a succulent that is in good shape if you want to give your plants the best chance of surviving. Fortunately, this shouldn’t be a concern if you get your succulents from Succulent Bar! We purchase our succulents from nearby plant nurseries, and we carefully choose each succulent we offer to our clients. Our succulents are handled with the utmost care and are guaranteed to be in excellent condition when received, whether they are shipped or purchased in person.
Succulents with brilliant colors, firm leaves, and sluggish growth are healthy. Succulents are not designed to expand rapidly. So, despite the fact that this would appear to be a bad indication, it actually is. Additionally, you could occasionally discover dried leaves at the base of your succulent, but this is also a positive sign. Succulents actually grow by losing their old leaves. Dried leaves indicate healthy growth in your succulent.
Light
In general, succulents need a lot of indirect light, and the majority of species will burn in hot light. Sunlight that filters through objects like window coverings, tree leaves, or bounces off of walls is referred to as indirect sunlight (think a covered patio). Usually, 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day are ideal. The optimum location for a succulent indoors is on a sunny window sill that faces south or west.
Water
Compared to most plants, succulents need far less water and less frequent irrigation. The majority of succulents usually die from overwatering. Check the soil of your succulent as a general rule. Every time you water, your soil should be completely dry. Following that, you’re welcome to water with 1-2 teaspoons of water and make adjustments. A little water goes a long way because the majority of succulents have very shallow root systems. Succulents dislike having their roots wet for an extended period of time, or having “wet feet.”
How to Water
If water remains on the leaves of succulents for too long, they are prone to easy decay. It is advisable to lift your succulent’s leaves and water the plant’s base as opposed to sprinkling or drenching the top of the plant because these plants absorb water through their roots. Tools like a spoon, straw, watering can, or mister can be used for this. Native to regions that receive a lot of water before going through a drought, succulents (think desserts). What does that imply then? It implies that they favor the soak-and-dry approach. After giving them a nice sip of water, wait until they are COMPLETELY dry before watering them once more. Water your succulents on average once every two to three weeks, and avoid letting their soil remain wet for more than a few days at a time.
Containers
In pots with adequate drainage, plants grow the best. Therefore, the best choice is to use pots with holes in the bottom. You can buy containers with holes already drilled into them or you can drill or poke holes yourself into your container. However, just because the majority of containers—especially the really adorable ones—don’t have drainage holes doesn’t mean you can’t use them. It DOES mean, however, that you should water your succulents properly, taking care to avoid soaking the soil for extended periods of time. See the How to Water section above.
Soil
Cactus soil that has been aerated is ideal for succulent growth. After watering, cactus soil tends to dry out quickly, protecting your succulent against root rot and too much water. Most plant nurseries and department shops with garden centers, such Lowe’s, Home Depot, and Walmart, carry this kind of soil. Your soil must be formed of substances like sand, moss, perlite, bark, and pumice and have a grittier texture.
Soggy or yellowed leaves
Mushy, yellow leaves are typically a sign that you are overwatering your succulent. Transferring your succulent to completely dry cactus soil is the best way to save one that has been overwatered. After that, consider reducing the amount of water you give your succulent by only watering it with 1-2 tablespoons when the soil is fully dry. Depending on the habitat, this normally occurs every two to four weeks.
Rot
Your succulent may be rotting if you overwatered it or provided it with insufficient drainage. Without drainage, excess water will build up inside your container and cannot leave, rotting your succulent. Make sure your container has the right drainage holes by checking. If not, make holes in your container with a drill or a pin or transfer to a different container. See the information under “Containers” above if your container does not have a drainage hole.
Wilted Leaves
A plant that has underwatered will have wilted, rubbery leaves. Water your succulent with 1-2 tablespoons of water to start fixing this issue. After then, don’t water again until the earth is completely dry. If this occurs more quickly than 3–4 weeks, it might be time to increase your water intake. Over the coming weeks and months, test the watering frequency once more to determine the ideal amount for your succulent.
Stretching
Your succulent requires more light if you notice that it is getting taller and has wider spaces between its leaves. Although it can look fantastic that your succulent is expanding, succulents actually grow very slowly. Your succulent is enlarging as a result of its search for more light. If you have this problem, move your succulent to a bright window sill as soon as possible. Sadly, stretching cannot be undone. After that, your succulent will continue to grow and prosper, but its stem will still be stretched.
Scorching
The presence of dark patches on your succulent’s leaves indicates overexposure to sunshine and burnt foliage. These “burns” won’t go away, but as your succulent grows, it will ultimately slough off these leaves. Simply move your succulent to a less bright area to solve this problem.
Words of Wisdom – 3 Houseplant Propagation Tips
First, keep in mind that there is no incorrect manner to spread an idea. Find the techniques that are most effective for your particular plants, then try them out! We believe that if you approach this process with interest and curiosity, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Tip 2: Propagating your indoor plants in the spring and summer will boost their chances of success. Plants are vigorously developing at this time, and they will rapidly create new roots.
Tip 3: Avoid propagating recently fertilized plants, and hydrate succulents a few days before you start so they have water in their leaves.
Method 1: Rooting in Water
The majority of your indoor plants can probably be propagated most simply and frequently via water roots. Because the cuttings will take in oxygen and extra nutrients from the water while growing supported by the vessel, we are able to grow plants in water.
The cuttings can then grow roots that are aquatic or adapted to an extremely wet environment. Once these roots have developed, it is crucial to maintain soil moisture when moving plants from an aquatic environment to one that is more terrestrial or to a container of soil.
Here is an example of how to root the common houseplant Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) in water:
- Determine the nodes to which the leaves of the new growth are attached. At the end of the vine, new growth will be smaller in size and lighter in color. Your roots will grow from the node or point of growth, which is a charming little elbow or nub where the leaf joins the stem.
- Cut a branch off that has fresher leaves and at least one node. Place it in water after dipping it in the rooting hormone.
- Place your clipping in a room that is warm and well-lit by indirect light. Watch your roots start to grow while you replace the water once a week, adding a little scoop of activated charcoal to the bottom if you like.
- Transfer to soil once roots are about 1 inch long. Cutting roots will be less likely to adapt properly to terrestrial life if they are submerged in water for an extended period of time.
The bumps (roots) next to where the leaf joins the stem serve as the node of this Raphidophora tetrasperma.
Method 2: Rooting in Soil
The only difference between rooting in soil and rooting in water is that the roots will grow in a more terrestrial environment, and you won’t be able to see the roots as they grow. The ability to balance the soil’s moisture level is essential for rooting clippings directly into the ground.
Find that ideal moisture level for the soil that is just right but not drenched. Before the cutting’s roots have a chance to grow, too much moisture in the soil can cause it to decay. This strategy works best when activated charcoal is added to a soil that drains effectively and when watering is used sparingly. Here are a few instances of plants that are typically rooted in soil:
You can actually take leaf cuttings from snake plants, also known as Sansevieria or Dracaena species, and root multiples of them at once!
- Use a sharp knife or sheers to cut a leaf that appears healthy at the plant’s base.
- Every 3 to 4 inches up the leaf blade, mark a horizontal line with a marker.
- Making note of which end is up, cut along the lines shown, then plant the squares bottom side down in the ground.
Succulents, such as the jade plant (Crassula species):
- cut the mother plant’s leaves entire (4 per stem)
- Place some leaves in a container of dirt so that they appear to be sunbathing there.
- To keep the soil moist and encourage root growth, mist the pot.
- Pot the leaves into the dirt after roots begin to develop.
Method 3: Root Division
When there are numerous plants in a pot, the plant has created an offset, or when you want to divide the roots of your adult plants, you simply divide the roots “pup. When your plants need to be replanted and have congested roots in their pot, it is preferable to employ this procedure.
Like Monstera deliciosa, many tropical plants bought from nurseries are frequently planted with numerous plants in the same container, making them easy to divide. Others, as Pilea peperomioides, effortlessly generate “Pups that can be separated from the parent plant and multiplied by one of the aforementioned techniques.
Remember to use a delicate touch and take your time to untangle and trim while working with roots. After repotting or root division, your plant may show signs of stress; this is natural behavior! Overwatering is the most frequent cause of plant death since humans have a tendency to want to ‘rescue’ stressed-out plants by giving them more water than they can handle. So, be patient and continue to water your plant as usual if it appears strained after repotting.
dividing a plant’s roots
- Remove the plant from the pot, then gently remove the soil around the roots.
- Locate a natural division between the plants in the pot, then use a sharp knife or a gentle pull to carefully separate the roots. You might need to clip a “pup” away from the mother plant if you want to separate it. Be careful not to injure the roots of the plants by more than a third.
- Place each fresh separation in a separate pot.
This propagation guide is intended to inspire you to grow plants at home and spread the delight of a lush, green lifestyle. We also recommend the book Root Nurture Grow for more in-depth explanations of propagation techniques, DIY projects, advice, and gorgeous images. Everyone at Pistils is pulling for you.