I wanted to share what I’ve learned about soil for succulents after all the reading I’ve done. Most of this has to do with the soil, but there is also some about container selection.
If you read anything at all, you’ll discover that many people discuss their “recipes for soil,” each of which is unique. So, here are the fundamental things I’ve discovered:
Rule #1: Most commercial mixes aren’t all that great.
Even potting soils specifically marketed for cacti and succulents are not very good on their own. They require assistance but can be an excellent beginning. The amount of organic matter in your soil is what you should be focusing on, and commercial mixes frequently contain excessive amounts of peat. You’ll be working with a variety of materials, mostly perlite, vermiculite, gravel, coarse sand (small pebbles), crushed granite (also known as chicken grit), baked clay, pumice, and so on.
- Rule #2: You should explore to come up with your own recipe since it will be the best.
The environment in which your plant will dwell (How hot is it? How humid is it? How well is the air circulating? and what kind of pot—clay or plastic—your plant is in. Will it inhale and take in water? The more your whole scenario is adapted to holding moisture, the less organic material you’ll desire because organic content will maintain moisture longer. Wetting the mixture and holding it in your hand will show you whether it is a good mixture. If it crumbles as opposed to clumping, you’re doing well.
Rule #3: Consider particle size when preparing a mixture.
Your materials should all have roughly the same grain size. These roots require both air and water, thus grain size is crucial. The main objective of your mix is to produce a light soil that has plenty of tiny air pockets rather than a dirt that mats around the roots. Mixed size groups will be more likely to “very fine sand will settle in as (such as play sand). When you water the plant, you fill these spaces, and when the soil drains, the retreating water pulls air into the soil behind it. (Therefore, each time I water my plants, I look for a calm moment “crackle and pop in a snap. That noise is really encouraging.)
- Rule #4: Peat is the most widely available type of organic material, but you should use it last.
Peat is frequently used in commercial mixes because it is lightweight and convenient to ship, but it has some characteristics that make it unsuitable for succulents. It tends to reject water when moistened again after completely drying out (which you want your succulents to do between waterings). You can see the water bead up on top when you water gently before it gradually starts to soak. Shredded bark and coconut coir are substitutes. (Peat has also come under fire for being a resource that is difficult to replenish. Although the method used to transform coconut fiber into coir for potting is somewhat debatable in terms of being environmentally friendly, coconut coir and shredded bark are seen as more environmentally friendly alternatives “ecofriendly.) Having said that, it is becoming increasingly simple to get coconut coir. Big box retailers in this area are most likely to carry it in bags as “organic seed starting mixture or bricks that have been compacted. Just be sure to purchase it from a trusted brand or dealer because some coconut coir is treated or cured using salts or chemicals that can be damaging to your plants. Mixtures with a bark base are typically labeled or sold for bonzais. Peat also decomposes over time and is denser, which keeps air from reaching your roots.
Rule #5: Carefully consider the non-organic components of your combination.
You don’t want to employ excessive amounts of “heavy stone fragments. Because they are light and porous, pumice, vermiculite, and perlite are ideal materials. A little searching on forums can turn up several helpful postings delineating the differences, and each has advantages and disadvantages of its own. Vermiculite absorbs water much more thoroughly and degrades more quickly. This makes it suitable for tropical plants and cutting-rooting, but perhaps not as suitable for succulents. Perlite is light and inexpensive but a little bit dirty and dusty. (I’ve also discovered that perlite, when used for seed starting and rooting cuttings, is more susceptible to moss and fungal growth.) Though cheaper and lighter than pumice, perlite still retains a little bit more water. Crushed granite, which is typically offered in farm and agriculture centers as an alternative to pumice in locations where it is not widely available, is used by many people in “(Chicken grit) as a less expensive substitute.
- Rule #6: If the soil has a low organic content, you should fertilize more regularly during the primary growing seasons.
In light of the fact that succulents don’t produce a lot of greenery, look for a fertilizer with a low nitrogen content and use it at a strength that is half or less of what is indicated on the label. Because succulents might develop slowly, you don’t want to add more chemicals to the soil than you will actually need. By “flushing the soil when you water your plants, succulents are damaged more by the frequency of watering than the volume,” you can combat this. When you do water, make sure the soil is completely saturated till water flows out the bottom before waiting a full day before watering again. The soil should dry out quickly in an ideal world. Long periods of time should not be spent with moisture in the pot.
Rule #7: The soil will need to be periodically replaced.
It is advised to replace those commercial potting soil blends every year or two as the peat decomposes and the soil begins to mat around the roots, restricting airflow to the roots and increasing moisture retention. Adding amendments like perlite and vermiculite will extend the mixture’s usability but won’t completely prevent this problem. Not just succulents, but all container plants in general, must abide by this regulation.
- Rule #8: Repotting succulents differs significantly from repotting standard home plants. You may be accustomed to the general rule of thumb that when repotting or planting a plant, you should try to avoid disturbing the roots; nevertheless, in this case, you should aim to remove as much soil as you can. Especially if you are dividing the plant or making any cuts to remove sick roots, it is advised to clear them off as much as possible, inspect for any rot or soft spots, cut out any that appear sick or damaged, and even let the bare roots sit out of the soil for several days to dry out before repotting. Remove any roots that are unhealthy, discolored, or mushy without hesitation. Succulents are more able to tolerate and adapt to root trimming than other plants because they have water stored in reserve. In fact, some mesembs, such as lithops, have a natural cycle in which the feeder roots naturally decay back to the central trap root once a year while they are inactive. In terms of allowing the exposed root ball dry, you want to give the cut time to calluse over before re-soiling it to avoid bacterial invasion at the wound. Pick a pot that is just a little bit bigger than the size of your roots when it comes time to repot. The more inactive and unused dirt you have in your pot, the more soil that will be sitting and retaining moisture. The plant roots actively absorb and wick moisture from the soil. Because of this, many individuals purposefully root bind some succulents in smaller pots.
- Rule #9: Getting your materials will certainly need a little ingenuity. While many common amendments can be obtained in your big box store’s gardening section, some types may necessitate traveling further. Online searches will turn up a wealth of information. If you do much reading on the “When other people use a recipe, they typically mention the unique ingredients and the store where they bought them. For instance, crushed granite is readily available commercially as “chicken grit can be found at farm stores next to animal or pet food. A burned clay called turface is also well-liked.
As a final exception to the rule, I’ll talk about light instead of pots and soils. When it comes to watering, succulents thrive on neglect, but they need a lot of light. But don’t go overboard. Since little succulents are accustomed to growing in the shade of rocks and other plants, they usually require a lot of filtered or indirect light. Make sure to give them an artificial night if you’re keeping them indoors with artificial lighting or in a green house with artificial lighting.
- Rule #10: For succulents to breathe, it must be dark. The so-called crassulacean acid metabolism is used by succulents. The short explanation is that they only allow their pores to open at night, when it is cooler and darker, in order to absorb the carbon dioxide required for photosynthesis. Instead of opening their pores in the more extreme heat of the day, they lose far less of their valuable stored moisture in their natural arid habitats this manner. If housed in too illuminated and poorly ventilated spaces, succulents and cacti would slowly starve to death if not given periods of highly ventilated (i.e., not a closet) darkness.
Okay, scrumptious experts Is there anything you believe I ignored, missed, or misunderstood? Comment below and spread the wealth!
Can I use vermiculite for succulents instead of perlite?
Plants that require water easily dry out perlite. For plants like cactus, succulents, or rhododendrons, which require a well-draining soil, vermiculite holds too much water. Vermiculite use for plants like these may result in root rot or even plant death.
What type of soil mixture is ideal for succulents?
Every soil mixture contains both organic and mineral components. Mineral matter, such as clay, silt, and sand, support soil drainage, whereas organic matter, such as humus and decomposing plant tissue, serves to retain moisture in the soil and give nutrients to the plant.
Because succulents can withstand drought and don’t require constant watering, their potting soil should be permeable, well-draining, and contain less organic matter than typical indoor soil mixtures. Ideal soil is a loose, granular mixture with a good amount of sand and perlite or pumice.
What kinds of plants prefer vermiculite?
Because of its sterility and capacity to hold moisture without promoting damping-off, vermiculite is utilized as a growing medium for seed starting and establishing propagated cuttings. Vermiculite can be used as the only growing medium for all plants, whether they are grown from seeds or cuttings. Some plants grow well on vermiculite alone when potted up into containers, while others demand other types of growing media for the best plant growth.
Vermiculite-tolerant herbs that prefer damp soil include:
- Basil
- Coriander
- Parsley
Water-loving vegetation that prospers in vermiculite:
- Ferns
- Vegetable spider
- Pothos
- Philodendron
- Blessed bamboo
Seeding new lawns
Keep seeds moist while they germinate—one it’s of the key steps in creating a new lawn. Spread a 1/4-layer of seed over the newly sown area when sowing new lawns, and then thoroughly irrigate. As the seeds sprout, the vermiculite helps keep water around.
Storing bulbs
Bulb kinds that are more delicate are dug out in the late fall and kept during the winter in a cold, dry location. Before storing, place layers of vermiculite between the bulbs. The extra moisture will be absorbed without drying out the bulbs.
Can I grow cacti in vermiculite?
Grow your Christmas cactus in an organically rich, well-drained soil mixture. One part potting soil, two parts peat moss or compost, and one part sharp sand, perlite, or vermiculite make up a nice mixture.
Vermiculite or perlite—which is superior?
Both perlite and vermiculite have a neutral pH and are effective water-retentive materials. However, vermiculite has a reputation for being able to hold more water than perlite. Therefore, perlite would be a better option for plants like rhododendrons that need less moisture or for desert conditions where succulents thrive.
Is aloe vera compatible with vermiculite?
Aloe ferox is a South African native whose name accurately describes its vicious, barbed appearance.
Aloes are simple.
They’ll understand and forgive you if you get busy and forget to water them or repot them.
Succulent collector Joni Pierce explains, “I grow them hard, so my aloes don’t require any special treatment from me. Having said that, there are certain criteria to follow for growing aloe in the best possible conditions, which also apply to maintaining many other fragile succulents in pots.
Joni’s instructions are as follows:
planting mixture Because drainage is essential, plant them in a grittier potting soil that allows water to drain freely. She advises using a professional potting mix with additional sand or grit that is based on peat and perlite. To make the potting mix more gritty, try using builder’s sand (also known as sharp sand), crushed granite, vermiculite, or other mineral sands like greensand, lava sand, or basalt. You want little bits, not big portions, says Joni.
Make sure it isn’t overpotted, Joni advises. Use small, individual pots without too much excess soil; when you first replant it, the roots should occupy about two-thirds of the pot because if there aren’t enough roots to collect moisture, the plant will sit in wet soil and not be happy. When it looks root-bound, you can allow it to completely fill the pot before repotting it. According to Joni, I occasionally go years without repotting. Although it can be entertaining to occasionally cultivate them in dish gardens alongside other succulents, collectors often prefer one aloe per pot.
of a pot. Aloes look beautiful on windowsills in clay or porcelain pots, although in extremely hot locations like Texas, plastic pots might occasionally be preferable. A must is adequate drainage holes.
Watering. When it’s warm outside, which in Texas is typically from April to early November, move the plants outside and water them once a week. Water them once every two weeks starting in the fall, then bring them inside for the winter and water once a month. Watering them about once every two weeks should be sufficient if growing them indoors in the dry climate produced by heating and air conditioning. To prevent the roots from sitting in water, make sure each pot on the windowsill has a saucer to catch the overflow and empty it frequently.
Sun. Patios can be the ideal place to grow aloes in the summer because they often look better when grown in moderate shade, indirect, or dappled light than than full sun. Some aloes, like A. dorotheae, can gradually adjust to full sun and develop a really appealing hue, but most aloes simply become darker and muddier.
Food. Although fertilizing is not crucial, even aloes benefit from a little bit occasionally. To encourage flowering, Joni advises using a slow-release granular fertilizer or a diluted solution of a liquid fertilizer (a third to half the recommended dosage for container plants). Choose a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content (the second of the three numbers on fertilizers). The plant won’t be as robust if there is too much fertilizer applied or the concentration is too high.
Pests. The minuscule aloe mite, which can bend or distort leaves and even destroy plants entirely, is essentially the sole pest that concerns an aloe plant. According to Joni, home gardeners don’t typically run into this issue, but it can be disastrous in huge greenhouse collections. She claims that soaking the leaves in a potent mix of soapy water can be helpful.