These are some very fundamental DOs and DON’Ts when it comes to caring for succulents to ensure their happiness.
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Top Dressings
In your succulent pots, AVOID using moss. Although it is attractive, it retains moisture and fosters fungi and germs. Additionally, stay away from non-porous rocks like glass marbles, pea gravel, river rocks, fish rocks, sand, etc. As long as the soil has enough air to breathe, you can put a few rocks here and there as ornamentation.
USE TOP DRESSINGS THAT ALSO SERVE AS DRAINS. Shale, Turface, and pumice are my top choices. The Supplies page is a list of my shopping sources.
DO NOT utilize containers without drainage holes unless you only intend to use them for a short period of time. This applies to terrariums, jars, bowls, and mugs. And no, you cannot use them if you first fill them with soil and then place pebbles on the bottom. This fosters the growth of the bacteria that causes rot.
If there isn’t a hole in the bottom, drill it. If the container is non-porous or glazed, you should make enough holes with a ceramic or glass bit to allow the soil to dry out fast. Use a piece of screen, burlap, garlic net, or anything else that will keep the dirt in yet enable it to completely drain for larger holes.
Light
If your succulents aren’t used to full sun, DON’T expose them to it. Most people prefer part-sun over bright indirect sun. A succulent can be burned and killed when moved from partial to full sun.
Give your succulents as much light as they can handle, but do it gradually. Put your plant in a spot that receives a little more sun than it usually does, then move it over the course of a week or more to a brighter spot. Shelves, gardens, and windows facing north will all receive less light than those facing west. South receives a wonderful combination of east and west sun, while east-facing receives morning sun.
DON’T base the frequency of your irrigation on a schedule, but rather on how dry the soil surrounding the roots is. You could wish to repot in a different container with better draining soil if the soil doesn’t dry out within a week.
DON’T rule out using a smaller, more quickly drying pot. The best clay is unglazed and has drainage holes. Improve your soil by adding more drainage components than organic ones.
DO NOT use pre-bagged potting soil with additional fertilizer as it frequently lacks the proper nutritional balance for succulents and contains an excessive amount of organic material that causes the soil to dry out too rapidly.
DON’T use anything but ordinary topsoil and a ton of drainage materials. Brown organic dirt should be present in the same quantity or less than the other ingredients. On the Care Guide page is my formula for soil.
DON’T assume the soil your plant was grown in is the best soil for that kind of succulent. Before bringing any plants home, make sure to check them for fungus and pests. Avoid purchasing plants that were housed with ill or infected plants, as well as those that have been treated with neonicotinoids or other insecticides that are harmful to the environment.
DO check the plants you’ve picked and the surrounding plants for insects and fungus before taking them inside. If necessary, and especially if the soil was moist when you acquired it, repot your succulents in good soil. Take care not to expose them to more sun than they are used to. Start with some light exposure and progressively increase it over the course of a week or longer.
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Succulents may be planted in topsoil.
Every soil mixture contains both organic and mineral components. Mineral matter, such as clay, silt, and sand, support soil drainage, whereas organic matter, such as humus and decomposing plant tissue, serves to retain moisture in the soil and give nutrients to the plant.
Because succulents can withstand drought and don’t require constant watering, their potting soil should be permeable, well-draining, and contain less organic matter than typical indoor soil mixtures. Ideal soil is a loose, granular mixture with a good amount of sand and perlite or pumice.
Which soil type is ideal for succulents?
Succulent soil is the basis for a plant’s ability to thrive, whether you are planting succulents outside or indoors. Larger soil particles are necessary for succulents to have a well-draining soil that allows water to enter quickly and drain away from the roots without compacting the soil. Use a soil test kit to verify the ideal soil for succulents and adjust the soil to a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5 before planting.
- Succulents prefer well-draining soil and have short root systems.
- The ideal soil is one that is nutrient-rich, loose, and rocky.
- Use a potting mix designed specifically for succulents and cacti when planting in containers, and place the plant in a pot with drainage holes at the bottom.
- Succulent plants could die off if their soil is too alkaline.
- Add soil amendments to the existing soil to make it more suitable for succulents’ needs.
Can I grow succulents in garden soil?
To create your own succulent soil, start with any ordinary potting soil type. Use whatever you have available as long as it is sterile and fresh.
I use a variety of brands, depending on what is on sale when I need to buy potting soil. The best basis for potting mix for succulents is one that is light and porous.
Avoid using heavy garden soils, vermiculite-containing mixtures, and soils that advertise moisture retention or additional moisture management. Succulents require potting soil that drains properly rather than one that retains moisture.
How should my soil be prepared for succulents?
The requirements for outdoor succulent soil vary by region, however modified drainage soil produces the optimum plant performance. The amount of rainfall your environment receives and safeguarding succulent roots will determine how to properly prepare the soil for a succulent garden. Your goal is to keep the roots dry, thus the optimum soil for your succulent garden will depend on your local climate.
When creating outdoor succulent soil, you can start with the soil you dug up from your garden bed and then add nutrients. In the garden, succulents don’t require fertile soil; in fact, they favor nutrient-poor, arid soils. Take out any sticks, rocks, and other trash. You can buy topsoil to add to the mixture as well. Choose soil that has no chemicals, fertilizers, or moisture retention.
What distinguishes succulent soil from potting soil?
Succulents need well-draining soil to be healthy. A succulent stores moisture in its leaves instead than the traditional potting soil, which is designed to hold water. In actuality, the cactus or succulent will develop root rot if the soil is excessively wet. So even though I’ve said it before, it bears reiterating that drainage holes must be safeguarded from clogging in succulent plant containers with holes in the bottom (see the full post on how to pot succulents here for more details). Of course, the following step is to select the kind of soil that will allow the water to drain.
I’ve bought and used this palm and cactus mix, which is also priced a little higher on Amazon, and it does appear to work well for succulents—but 8 qts can go rather quickly! I’ve started making my own succulent potting mix as a consequence using just three basic materials (get the printable version at the bottom of the post). What you’ll need to prepare the ideal soil for succulents in pots is listed below:
Is succulent potting soil suitable?
Start with a simple cactus and succulent soil mix, or even an African violet mix, both of which are readily available at most garden centers, for the best potting soil for succulents. Then experiment with different combinations of ingredients to discover the one that will enhance drainage, make watering easier, and last a long time without compacting.
Organic matter is a key component of any potting mix for succulents. The primary component of most potting soils, peat moss, is difficult to moisten and rapidly dries out. A small amount of finely crushed bark can be used to make water enter more quickly. Coir, which is formed of fibrous, shredded coconut husks and decomposes extremely slowly, is an excellent substitute for peat moss in handmade mixes. Coir is simple to moisten when it dries out, unlike peat. While compost can also be utilized, it decomposes quite quickly.
The other key component is an inorganic material that keeps the mixture crumbly and airy by allowing water to easily soak into and then drain out of soil. Perlite, crushed granite, pumice, chicken grit, calcined clay used to promote aeration and compaction in turf fields, or non-soluble cat litter are a few options that are all preferable than coarse sand. Any of these will significantly improve drainage and remain intact as the organic matter eventually breaks down.
Can succulents be grown in just rocks?
It should be obvious that succulents will thrive when planted in rocks given these circumstances. They drain very well and do not retain water, which eliminates the possibility of root rot. This does not include another component of soil, though, since all plants need nutrients.
Although succulents are not particularly hungry plants, they do need certain nutrients to grow. Other micronutrients like zinc or iron are needed in smaller levels, whereas macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are essential. The plant won’t grow at all or last very long without these nutrients.
By their very nature, rocks don’t release nutrients quickly enough to keep the plants alive. They are composed of minerals, but since they decompose so slowly over time, they are not appropriate for growing on their own. Additionally, they often don’t retain enough moisture, allowing the roots to quickly dry out after draining practically instantly.
Sadly, this means that succulents cannot thrive permanently without soil in rocks. If not given regular care, they may survive for several weeks or even months on the nutrients found in the stems and leaves.
How can I speed up the growth of my succulents?
Succulents frequently push their roots together in circles to maximize the amount of soil they can absorb. How much room you gave the succulent in a container or in a garden determines how small the root circle is. You can occasionally assist the succulent in spreading its roots if you want it to develop more quickly. The plant will be able to take more nutrients from the soil as a result, leading to quicker development. Succulents have a tendency to occupy empty spaces, both in the soil and above it.
The method is really easy to follow. Just gently remove the succulent from the ground. Avoid damaging the root system at any costs. To loosen the dirt if the succulent is in the pot, gently squeeze the pot or pour a few drops of water around the rib. Shake the earth from the roots gently once the succulent has been removed. The ideal method is to use your fingers to gently massage the root system. You can plant the succulent in new soil after removing the old soil. Make sure to distribute the roots with your hands as widely as you can when you do that. Avoid using anything sharp that could hurt or harm them.
Which fertilizer is ideal for succulents?
Succulents grow lush and beautiful with a modest feeding of manure tea, diluted fish emulsion, or a balanced fertilizer (15-15-15). Liquid fertilizers that are concentrated should be diluted. Roots could be harmed if this is not done.
Use one Moo Poo tea bag per three gallons of water, steeped overnight, for succulents growing in containers. Pour until it runs out the bottom starting at the plant’s base. Alternately, apply half-diluted fish emulsion.
Although in-ground succulents don’t technically require fertilization, you can encourage lush spring growth by applying Ironite per the instructions on the package, ideally before a winter storm. Apply a balanced granular fertilizer in the spring (if you like to; it is not required).
How frequently do succulents need to be watered?
During the months that are not winter, when the temperature is above 40 degrees, you should water your succulents every other week. You should only water your succulent once a month in the winter (when the temperature falls below 40 degrees), as it goes dormant at this period.
A few situations constitute an exception to this rule. Because their tiny leaves can’t hold as much water as other varieties with larger leaves, some varieties of succulents need to be watered more frequently. In the non-winter months, feel free to give these small leaf succulents a water if they appear to be thirsty. When they are thirsty, succulents generally exhibit a wrinkled appearance. But always keep in mind that being underwater is preferable to being overwater.
Can I grow succulents in sand?
While succulents can live in sand, only coarse sand will actually work. In fine sand, succulents won’t grow well, if at all, as it holds on to too much water, making it difficult for the roots to breathe.
Sand-grown succulents won’t receive as many nutrients as those raised in potting soil. So it makes sense to think about fertilizing the succulent by incorporating diluted fertilizer with its watering schedule. This guarantees that the plant continues to receive the nutrients required for growth.
Making a sand and soil mix is the greatest alternative to growing your succulent in sand. The succulent benefits from having the best of both worlds since the sand ensures adequate water drainage and the soil supplies the plant with nutrients for growth.
When purchasing succulents, should you repot them?
Do you repot your plant after purchasing it from the store, or do you leave it in the same pot indefinitely? In fact, repotting your newly acquired plants as soon as you can is a smart idea.
Why repeating is a wise concept is as follows:
- Put that plant in a well-draining potting mix made for succulents and cacti. Succulents and cacti shouldn’t grow in potting soil that retains too much water, which happens to be the case frequently. The plants’ long-term health will be ensured by removing them from the nursery soil and placing them in a more suitable one.
- When repotting, you can give the plant a closer look to check on its health. To determine whether the plant’s root system is healthy, you can inspect it. If necessary, you can also remove any dead or decaying roots. Dead or dried leaves can also be removed.
- You can also look inside the plant for insects and pests that might be there and could contaminate your other plants if ignored. To prevent the infestation from spreading to your other plants, treat and isolate the plant as soon as you notice pests there.
- You can select a better pot or planter. Choosing a pot or container to house the plants in is one of the things I enjoy most about repotting. A container that is a few inches larger than the nursery pot it was originally planted in is ideal so that the plant has space to grow but is not so large that you run the risk of the plant spending too much time in moist soil. It’s acceptable for some folks to reuse the same nursery pot, but you can also get creative with your selections.
