Succulents quickly begin to display signs of stress from excessive heat or intense sunlight.
Succulents frequently “blush” or change color when they are receiving enough sunlight. What a lovely transformation to witness!
However, if they begin to receive excessive sunlight, the leaves will actually burn. The succulent leaves may start to show white or pale areas. This harm cannot be undone.
As an alternative, make an effort to relocate your plant to a location with less intense sunlight and wait for new leaves to emerge. It is optional to remove damaged leaves if there are just one or two of them.
The leaves may truly turn dry and black in rare circumstances. The margins of the leaves will first turn black, and it will be dry and crispy (in contrast to blackening from rot which starts in the middle of the plant and is wet and mushy).
Once more, this injury won’t go away until the leaf totally withers and new leaves emerge.
A succulent in the shade may start to turn a golden or yellow tint if it is still quite hot outside. Instead of turning entirely white, as would happen with sunburn, the succulent instead appears warmer or more yellow than usual.
If the succulent is transferred to a colder setting, this usually disappears or the succulent returns to its normal hue.
I can keep succulents alive very well sometimes, but not always.
I recently relocated to Arizona from Utah. Growing succulents can be challenging for a variety of reasons, including relocation. You must pay close attention to how much heat and sunlight each area of your garden receives.
Although it’s a little humiliating, I’m going to show you what my garden looked like when it received excessive sunlight and heat in the video below.
Hopefully, this example will show you what to watch out for so that your garden doesn’t turn out like mine did.
Can succulents withstand intense sunlight?
Succulents generally require at least 4-6 hours of sunshine each day to thrive. They enjoy being in places that are sunny and bright. Lack of sunshine will cause difficulties in succulents such elongation or etiolation, when the plants extend for more light. Weak stems and low growth are the results of this procedure. Lack of light causes succulents to lose their bright coloring and turn pale or back to a drab green tone. Plants that receive enough sunshine will display their whole spectrum of brilliant hues, showing their genuine beauty.
Will succulents with sunburns recover?
You are unable to undo the harm the light has done to your succulents, which is unfortunate. Any discolored patches you notice on your plant are permanent since plants cannot heal from sunburn the way humans can.
There are a few solutions for handling sunburned leaves, but there is no cure for sunburn. The initial step is to remove the plant’s damaged areas. You might be able to grow new succulents from the damaged leaves since many succulents can be propagated from leaf cuttings.
Allowing the plant to grow is another choice. The old burned leaves on your succulent will ultimately shrivel up and fall off as it grows and develops new leaves. If you don’t have to get rid of the unattractive leaves right away, you can just let nature take its course. The plant will eventually produce enough new growth for the sunburned areas to eventually fall off and be completely covered.
THE IMPACT OF TEMPERATURES ON SUCCULENTS
Succulents typically prefer climates with temperatures between 60 and 80 °F. Some people can withstand temperatures as high as 90°F or as low as 40°F. These severe temperatures are occasionally used by gardeners to “stress” their succulents into changing color. Many succulents, especially soft succulents, can often benefit from high temperatures between 80°F and 90°F to keep their beautiful hues. You’ll notice that many hues will start to get more intense when the temps fall (but remain over 40F). The chilly (but not freezing) temperatures over a prolonged period of time intensify these colors. Be mindful that your succulents can suffer from temperatures that are too high or too low. Never recommend a temperature of 40°F or greater than 90°F.
Your succulents may suffer from sunburn in the summer due to the combination of high temperatures and direct sunlight, which can harm both the leaves and the root systems. You should move your succulents to a shaded place during the warmest part of the day or cover them with shade cloth. People who reside in regions with extremely hot climates might think about planting their succulents directly into the ground as opposed to in containers since soil temperatures remain largely stable regardless of fluctuations in the weather. If you want to grow succulents in containers, pick materials like concrete, terracotta, ceramic, or wood that are excellent at protecting plants from rapid temperature changes. Avoid using metal and glass containers.
Keep the temperature above freezing to prevent frost damage to your succulents over the winter. You can do this by covering them with a cloth or bringing them inside. While some tropical species like Euphorbia and Lithops demand temperatures of at least 50-60F, some cold-hardy species, like Sempervivum, can endure frost and love cool temps from 30 to 40F. Check out the Hardiness information on each of our plant product pages, where we provide thorough information on the USDA Hardiness Zone for each plant, to discover precisely whether a certain succulent variety is suitable for the climate in your location.
How do succulents look burned by the sun?
If the plants are exposed to too much direct sunlight, succulents can seem sunburned.
When a succulent is exposed to light, the burns often appear as brown, yellow, or red blotches on the leaves and stems.
On either side of this leaf’s upper edge, where it was exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time, you can discern brown scorched regions.
The stem end of succulent, fleshy leaves that have spent the entire day outside without shade or moisture protection may also develop this coloring.
This causes a burn mark to form unevenly, and because it occurs on both sides of the upper edge of the leaf, towards the end of the stem, and around the margins, it frequently appears larger than it actually is.
Succulents that are not in direct sunlight will get yellow sunburns.
On plants, these burns appear as mottling and discoloration. It can happen to plants that are close to fences or other plants and is brought on by the leaves spending a prolonged amount of time in the sun.
Where it was exposed to the sun for a long time, the stem end of a succulent leaf may also have a red sunburn.
Common Signs of Sunburned Succulents
Indicators of a burnt succulent include:
- Brown marks
- leaf drop or wilting in the affected area
- wilted leaves
- leaves with a hint of yellow
- yellow sunburns
- Near the leaf’s stem end, there are red sunburns.
- Roots in potting soil that are dry and brittle
- soil that has been damaged or dried out near a sun-exposed region.
It’s important to recognize this soon so you can take care of your succulent plant before it worsens and dies.
Can succulents endure the heat of the sun?
Don’t allow the hot, harsh sun hurt your succulents! Unlike frost (temperatures of 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower), heat normally poses no threat to succulents. The majority of plants can tolerate temperatures higher than you’re comfortable with, as shown by greenhouse temperatures that rise into the triple digits on hot days, despite the fact that some don’t seem to thrive in temperatures above 80 or 90 degrees F. Succulents, though, can succumb to heat and sunlight. All smooth-leaved succulents, excluding desert cacti and agaves, require sun protection in the summer, especially when the temperature rises beyond 80 degrees.
If you live in an arid climate ~
- Identify the sun’s position relative to your property. In North America, plants growing on the north side of your house will receive the least solar exposure while those growing on the south will receive the most. My garden, which faces east, receives early sunlight and midday shade. West-facing gardens receive early shade and afternoon sun.
- When temperatures are at their highest in the middle of the day, “bright shade” (no direct sun but not deep shade) is great for non-desert succulents. For low-light succulents like haworthias, bright shade is needed. Visit our website’s Shade Succulents page to learn more. View my video about Shade Succulents.
Above: Although robust, the echeverias on the left in the brilliant shade have lost their color. The borders of those exposed to more sun are red, but they are smaller due to some stress.
- Keep track of where each new plant you purchase was situated in the nursery. Was it in the open or covered by a tarp? It will need to be “hardened off” (shaded, especially in the afternoon) until it acclimates, even if it is a “full sun” succulent like an agave. This kind of exposure is like tanning: Start with 30 minutes of sun, then gradually increase it by about an hour per day.
- Aloes and crassulas need at least a half-worth day’s of sun to turn red and orange, but not so much that the tips of the leaves shrivel or burn. (Read “How to Stress Succulents and Why You Should. “).
Above: Dryness and heat stress this jade (Crassula ovata). To maintain its life, the plant is gently draining its leaves. However, leaves will be plump and greener after irrigation or rain (which could take months).
- Cover exposed, horizontal stems of trailing succulents (aloes, senecios, othonna, and the like) with dry leaves or mulch to prevent burnt stems from impairing the ability of the plants to transfer moisture from roots to leaves.
- Use floating row covers (preferably), shade cloth, old sheets, or temporary shade structures to protect newly installed plants and in-ground succulents prone to sunburn. I employ rusty window screens. In an emergency, place upright leafy tree trimmings next to a plant you wish to preserve, on the side that receives the most sunlight. Or, in keeping with the sun’s movement throughout the day, use outside furniture.
Above: Aloe brevifolia, a stunning but stressed plant, has closed its rosettes and changed color from blue to pink.
- Learn how plants defend themselves. When the sun becomes unpleasant, succulents can’t flee to the shade, so some species create their own. Succulents with rosettes, such dudleyas, aeoniums, and some types of aloe, close their rosettes to save their critical cores. Lower leaves that become dry but don’t drop off serve a service by protecting flimsy stems from the sun in the summer and the cold in the winter.
- Where shade will be needed during the long, hot summer afternoons, plant trees and plants. (The Companion Plants chapter in Designing with Succulents, 2nd ed., has information on low-water cultivars suitable for succulent gardens.)
What sunburn looks like
The floppy leaves of this agave stretch (and weaken) the cells in those areas that are most exposed to sunlight.
Succulents with white, beige, or black patches have been sunburned, which causes irreparable cell damage comparable to frost. The plant is alright, but scars will endure just as long as the leaf.
These aeoniums generally have sunburn on the underside of their lowest leaves, which they will shed in a few months anyhow. Very effective, wouldn’t you say?
Several months later, the same aeoniums. Only a few scorched leaves are still visible.
It is preferable if the damaged parts are on the outer leaves because fresh growth from the rosette’s center will eventually cover up burnt spots. In any event, lower leaves naturally wither and fall off, damage or not. Recovery from a sunburn could take several months to a year, depending on the succulent and the time of year.
Related Info:
Summertime Succulent Watering. Okay, everyone is aware that succulents require little water. They aren’t “no-water plants,” though. Even though they might make it through the summer without irrigation… [Read more…]
A heat wave shouldn’t ruin your succulents. Succulents that are exposed to the scorching sun may burn when a heat wave follows cool weather. The beige or brown patches that develop as a result of sunburn cannot be removed. [Read more…]
Succulent Stress Management (and Why You Should). Some succulents exhibit beautiful reds and yellows when exposed to lots of sunlight, but how much “stress” the plants need depends on… [Read more…]
Do cacti enjoy the sun’s heat?
Contrary to popular perception, most succulents do not flourish when exposed to the warmest temperatures and most sunlight. Most succulents require sun protection, especially if the temperature exceeds 90 degrees or if they are little, even if they prefer a lot of light (and very few can thrive in full shade). The most vulnerable varieties to sunburn are those that are completely green, pale, or variegated. A word of advice: Choose plants that are red, gray, blue, or heavily spined (which serve to reflect the sun’s rays) if you intend to slam your succulents with the brightest sun possible.
Do I need to remove the sun-damaged succulent leaves?
It would be better to cut off any leaves on your succulent plant that are 70 to 80 percent burnt. This is due to the fact that they are no longer able to contribute anything and are instead merely sucking nutrients from the rest of the plant.
However, since the healthy tissue may still produce nourishment for the plant, leaves that are still primarily green can stay on the plant.
When leaves get brown and black patches, they won’t get better. Simply use a sanitized knife or a pair of scissors to snip them off.
You might even be able to create new plants using the broken leaves. The ability to frequently generate new plants through leaf cuttings is one of the main characteristics of succulents. This might be a choice if the leaf has sufficient healthy tissue.
Should I remove leaves with sunburns?
During the recent heat wave, we were asked a lot of questions on how to revive stressed plants, and we are more than delighted to assist! To be ready for upcoming temperature extremes, consider the following frequently asked questions and their responses.
How do I help my lawn? I am watering it every day, but it’s still getting fried!
Turf grass has a very shallow root system, and at the temperatures we’ve lately had, water from the soil evaporates quickly. Despite routine watering, your lawn undoubtedly was burnt by the sun. Despite the fact that our Northwest grass blends were not developed to withstand these circumstances, if you continue to water and fertilize it regularly throughout the season, your grass should recover.
My hydrangeas are taking the worst of the heat. Any tips for recovery?
The hydrangeas really had trouble. It was excruciating to see! The majority of the plant damage may have only affected the blooms that withered or turned brown in the heat as long as the plants were kept well-watered. By cutting slightly above the leaf that is beneath the flower bud, remove spent flowers and fertilize. If the foliage on your hydrangeas is also harmed, it can have sunburn (crispy or brown around edges). Your plant will eventually recover from severe sunburn, but it might not from acute drought, depending on the total degree of damage.
My red currant has curling leaves even though it was watered deeply every day during the heat wave.
Red currant bushes prefer some shade or as least shelter from the strong sun, and they will undoubtedly display sunburn as a result of the recent weather. Remove any foliage that is more than 50% damaged and lightly fertilize it to aid in the plant’s recovery. As long as the plant did not become overly dry, the burned leaves will gradually fall off as the plant grows new ones. Spider mites are the next potential problem to keep an eye out for; the heat may have inflated the insect population, and stressed plants may be “sitting ducks for an infestation.” Due to the vulnerability of red currants to mites, keep an eye out for more yellowing or browning leaves as well as webbing on leaves and/or branches. Bring any suspicious leaves in a baggie to the garden center for diagnosis and possible treatments.
My blueberries got toasted even with daily watering. How do I care for them now?
Particularly when bearing fruit, blueberries’ thin, fibrous root structure is extremely susceptible to drying out. Your plants might not recover if they were only recently planted (less than two years in the ground). Reduce the plants’ energy needs by pruning back the plants to remove some of the top growth and by removing this year’s berry yield. Apply a thin layer of kelp meal as a top dressing, and then mulch the roots with bark, compost, etc. to stop soil from evaporating. Give the plant some time to recover while continuing to water normally. In the event that they don’t appear to be healing, assess this fall and think about planting more blueberries.
My begonias have suffered! Tips to help them recover?
Begonias are challenging in these weather! They can’t survive harsh sunlight either because they are so sensitive to rotting when they absorb too much water. To help the plant recover with less stress if they have been burnt, it is preferable to remove the blossoms and prune back the scorched leaves that appear to be more than 50% damaged. Make sure they are properly hydrated before feeding them, then give them a diluted organic liquid fertilizer. If you can, give them more cover from the sun while it’s at its hottest. Unfortunately, there is not much hope for recovery if you unintentionally overwatered them, and it might be best to replace them.
I watered the heck out of my perennial every day, but it’s still drooping. Will it get better?
The majority of the mature landscaping plants, including the most resilient lavender, were literally melting when we walked outside yesterday during the hottest portion of the day. Even if they are sufficiently hydrated, plants partially welt as a strategy to preserve water and prevent moisture loss from their leaves when exposed to harsh sun. The plants typically require no extra water after the sun has set or once they are in shade to fully recover. The lavender looked completely natural again this morning!
Two thirds of my cucumber plant is now wilted. Can I revive it?
There is still plenty of time in this growing season to replant even if two thirds of the plant is wilted or injured. Cucumbers could still be grown this year if you start your seeds in the ground!
My hibiscus was burnt to a crisp. The stems are okay, though! Is it salvageable?
Your hibiscus appears to be able to heal, but it will likely lose the majority of its damaged leaves, abort any forming flowers, and appear dejected for a while. Trim the worst-looking foliage at this time and give it some fertilizer. Continue routine watering or, if there is less foliage to maintain, perhaps water a little less frequently.
My weigela is in rough shape. It’s in a large pot and gets afternoon sun. A large tree that used to offer some shade was cut down due to ice storm damage, so the sun is relentless. Will it help if I trim off the brown stems and transplant it into the ground?
Your weigela appears to have been severely scorched and dried up. It could be better if planted in the ground, but I bet it can recover in due course. Cut it back by approximately a third now (if it hasn’t opened yet, you won’t get blooms this year), then plant it using these hot season planting methods during a cool time of the day. For the first two weeks following transplanting, provide temporary shade. Water deeply every two days for the first two weeks. Then, start to ease off by 1-2 days between waterings every week.
All new growth on my tomatoes is fried. How should I proceed?
Although we wish for a warm summer so that our tomatoes will mature, continuous temperatures exceeding 95 degrees Fahrenheit have a tendency to prevent fruit set and can even scorch growing tomatoes. On a couple of my tomato plants, especially those that have been in the ground for less than a month, I noted damage and wilting of new growth. Although I had shade fabric covering every tomato cage, the wind had blown it off of one delicate plant, which is now nearly one-third scorched. The warmest period of yesterday’s day left all of my tomato plants very wilted, but just one appears to have received lasting damage to the topmost new growth. I removed the wilted tips from my plants this morning and gave them a mild liquid kelp meal feeding, which raises potassium levels and aids in stress recovery. Your plants will recover after a few weeks if you follow suit!