Is Hoya Kerrii A Succulent

Due to its low maintenance requirements and heart-shaped leaves, the Hoya kerrii makes a stylish houseplant. Because of its heart-shaped leaves, this species of Hoya is known by names like “sweetheart plant,” “lucky-heart plant,” and “love heart plant.” On Valentine’s Day, leaf cuttings growing in little pots are a common gift to represent love and dedication. Although they are succulents and not cacti, these heart-shaped plants are frequently referred to as such. They thrive in the majority of indoor conditions and require very little maintenance.

Hoya kerrii needs just occasional watering and thrives in bright, direct sunshine and loose, well-draining soil. Maintain these succulent heart plants at a 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C) temperature range with a medium humidity level. Up to four times a year throughout the growing season, fertilize.

A kind of climbing vine in the genus Hoya known as wax plants is the hoya heart plant. The long, trailing stems, which can be up to 13 feet (4 meters) long, bear the thick, succulent heart-shaped leaves. The average heart leaf is 2.3 (6 cm) wide, and it roots readily in the soil to form a distinctive plant with a heart-shaped shape.

It might be challenging to locate mature Hoya Kerrii plants. These “lucky heart plants,” if you can locate them, are typically exceedingly expensive. Most people have seen lover hoyas growing in little pots as a single, large leaf. Rarely do these slow-growing novelty plants enlarge the cutting in the pot. A stem cutting is required to reproduce a vining Hoya kerrii.

The most popular hoya heart plant has succulent leaves that have a perfect heart shape and are bright green. Green and creamy-yellow leaves are variegated on several Hoya Kerrii varieties. The variegated Sweetheart Hoya and the Hoya Kerrii “Reverse Variegata” are the two most popular varieties of lucky-heart plants. The succulent leaves of the Hoya kerrii ‘Splash’ are decorated with light green specks.

Is Hoya a succulent or a cactus?

I’ve amassed a sizable collection of Hoya species during the past year. Hoyas are a genus of tropical succulents that are native to Asia and Australia. There are over 300 species in the genus, in addition to several hybrids and cultivars. Hoyas are generally recognized for their waxy flower clusters and thicker, succulent-like leaves (also known as umbels). They are linked to Dischidia and common milkweed since they are members of the Apocynaceae family and the Asclepiadoideae subfamily. I could go on and on about how fascinating I find the world of hoyas, but the focus of this essay is on misperceptions about hoya care. Considering that I have only been cultivating them for a little over a year, I am by NO MEANS an expert. However, I seem to naturally be good at them, therefore I want to share my struggles and missteps with anyone else who might be interested in Hoyas. You’ll rapidly discover that they’re quite “addictive” and that it’s simple to get sucked into collecting them! Having said that, let me reiterate that I lack expertise. Just wanted to share my experience with you. The top 5 Hoya care blunders and how to fix them are shown here. I’ve killed a few, but kept most of them alive.

1.) Assuming that all Hoyas have the same maintenance requirements – Although many Hoyas, as I said above, require a comparable level of maintenance, there are more than 500 different species, cultivars, and hybrids of Hoyas. When you begin to collect various Hoyas, learn about their distinct requirements. Some people prefer warm, muggy weather, while others prefer cooler, dry conditions. Some people prefer a little touch of dryness, while others want a lot of wetness. As a general rule, hoyas with thicker leaves can withstand drought better than those with thin leaves, which are more thirsty. Additionally, there are a variety of elements that affect blooming, including light, age, roots, and temperature. A particular favorite resource of mine is Vermont Hoyas, and there are a ton of useful Hoya groups on Facebook.

2.) Not using a well-draining potting media – Even if a particular Hoya species like to stay on the damp side, a well-draining substrate is KEY and may even be more crucial than anything else when caring for Hoyas. Standard cactus/succulent soil can be used in a pinch, but I’ve discovered that even soils designed for plants that resemble succulents are insufficiently well-draining and require amendment. However, I prefer to use soil that has been heavily amended with perlite, charcoal, and pine bark, such as Fox Farms or Black Gold. In place of packaged potting soil, I recently started using coco coir, and thus far, things are going nicely. There are numerous ways to produce hoyas, including growing them exclusively in pine bark, semi-hydro utilizing clay balls that have been inflated, and amending with sand. The substrate’s ability to quickly drain is all that matters. Healthy roots are necessary for Hoya growth and flowering, therefore lacking them could cause the plants to suffer from root rot.

3.) Overwatering – This links in somewhat with the earlier recommendation to use a fast-draining mix. A substrate that drains efficiently is crucial because it can prevent overwatering. Although Hoyas like a moist environment, plants are nonetheless vulnerable to overwatering. Don’t let the Hoya sit in water (like a tray), let the substrate dry out sufficiently between waterings, and don’t plant it in a pot that is too large. In fact, a tight-fitting pot can occasionally promote blooming in addition to preventing damp roots.

4.) Not giving enough humidity and air flow – When people first learn about Hoyas, they are frequently shocked to discover that they LOVE humidity. In fact, several species depend entirely on humidity for growth. Hoyas are not desert-dwelling succulents; rather, they are native to humid tropical and subtropical environments. Hoya growth is notoriously slow for many species (I’m looking at you, Hoya kerrii variegata), but humidity can actually help. In reality, if the humidity is high, Hoyas can still grow quickly in more moderate light. Now, because of all the humidity, fungus can frequently be an issue; for this reason, it’s crucial to have sufficient air flow. Hoyas shouldn’t be packed too close together with insufficient space between them or in stagnant, humid air. If you have a lot of plants, you should space your Hoyas out more.

5.) Don’t expose them to bright light – This may seem like the most basic gardening advice, yet many people mistake Hoyas for low-light plants. Actually, they aren’t. Many cultivars of H. carnosa and some non-variegated species can definitely withstand more mild light coming from a window that faces east (in the northern hemisphere) or even directly in front of a window that faces north. But placing a Hoya in a corner or on top of a dark bookshelf is one of the worst things you could do. Hoyas climb up trees in tropical regions, so consider where they are native to and how they develop. They so require that brilliant, dappled light. Light from a west or south-facing window is best for Hoya indoor growth. This winter, I’m utilizing T5 HO lights, which many growers strongly recommend. Artificial lighting is undoubtedly beneficial for hoyas. Outside, indirect lighting is preferable because too much direct sunlight can make the leaves wilt and become yellow. The Hoya plant grows better when the light is kept up, and it also prevents the soil from being too wet. Wet potting soil shouldn’t be used with Hoyas, as is common knowledge.

Succulent or Hoya wax plant?

A popular indoor plant called Hoya carnosa is grown for its lovely waxy foliage and fragrant blossoms. It produces smooth, light gray shoots that have a somewhat juicy appearance and writhe and ascend. Leaves have shiny, waxy surfaces and a mildly succulent texture. They are up to 5.2 inches (13 cm) long, up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide, and have a petiole that is 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) long. They are ovate or elliptic. From early spring through late summer, the plant blooms. On the same peduncle, it can produce umbels of 10 to 30 tiny star-shaped blooms that open gradually over the course of 2 to 3 weeks. They can range from near-white to dark pink but are commonly light pink. The blossoms have a fuzzy shine due to the microscopic hairs that coat their surface.

Can a leaf from a Hoya kerrii plant grow?

So adorable, I thought. I currently have a Hoya kerrii that will develop into a lovely, lush vine that looks like this:

If so, you may have noticed these “Sweetheart leaves Hoya are commonly spotted, especially around Valentine’s Day, and occasionally have idiotic messages like “I Love You” written on them. You cannot cultivate a Hoya kerrii with a single leaf, I have concluded after spending far too much time searching the internet. Hoya are typically fairly simple to spread. They require a node, just like other plants, to properly complete their transformation into a plant. The issue is that these little cuttings lack a node.

These “Hoya kerrii leaves are just that—leaves. These have no nodes or ways to grow, so they will remain in their charming heart shape. Sure, you might strike it fortunate, and some might even have a tiny bit of stem on them, but 9.5% of the time they are simply a leaf with roots. The name for this is a blind leaf. The leaf will essentially never amount to anything other than, well, a leaf with roots. On Instagram, it’s not unusual to observe Fiddle leaf Fig leaves being propagated with a hot stream of roots. Although this could appear like a legitimate example of #rootgoals, it will never grow into a plant. The only thing that will cause a plant to continue to grow is a section of the stem with a node.

I conducted a test. I have a leaf from a Hoya carnosa that broke off (above). It established roots but hasn’t sprouted anything else in months, whether it’s in soil or water. It has only roots. Although adding rooting hormone can seem like a wonderful idea, it only promotes the growth of more roots rather than stems.

Here are two cuttings with nodes in contrast (below). Despite not even being in the soil yet, they produce new growth. Actually, they are younger than the cutting of a single leaf.

Sweetheart Hoya: a succulent or not?

The Valentine plant, also known as the sweetheart wax plant or the sweetheart hoya plant, gets its name from its thick, succulent, heart-shaped leaves. The darling hoya plant is a beautiful, low-maintenance indoor plant, like other Hoya types.

Feeding

If the plant is little or only has one leaf, minimal feeding is needed. Most likely twice a year. You can feed your plant a little bit more if it’s older or if a leaf is producing new shoots. Even so, you shouldn’t do it more frequently than four times a year. The Sweetheart Plant does not consume a lot of food.

Temperature

Most interior temperatures are comfortable. The ideal growing temperature range is between 18C and 27C/65F and 80F since if it becomes too cold, growth will decrease or stop.

Repotting

Many Hoya owners disagree on this issue. There are numerous general schools of thinking, but they all adhere to the same “rules”:

  • The soil mixture must have good free drainage and little rich organic matter.
  • In general, plants in small pots that are root- or pot-bound are more likely to bloom (this only applies to mature plants with many leaves).
  • No matter how big or young the plant is, it won’t mature if the pot is too small.
  • It is much more likely for a large pot of plants with only one leaf to decay due to unintentional overwatering, therefore avoid doing it.

After breaking everything down into understandable examples from real-world situations:

  • Only when there is fresh development can young plants with one leaf begin to be repotted.
  • Every two years, young plants with few leaves should be repotted, each time going into a slightly larger container.
  • At most every two years, mature plants with numerous leaves should be replanted, each time putting them up into a somewhat larger container.

Propagation

The good news is that it’s incredibly simple to reproduce this plant, should you wish to do so. Copy the ZZ Plant’s propagation technique. The bad news is that the new plants can take several months (or even longer), exactly like the ZZ Plant, before they begin to show signs of fresh development.

After about a month, if the leaves haven’t turned yellow or begun to wrinkle and shrivel up, the “cutting” has definitely “taken.” Which implies you now possess Hoya kerrii in its common form, which is available for purchase in numerous stores.

In the big picture, propagation isn’t the ideal route to go if you want a mature plant with plenty of leaves or one that can flower soon. Instead, you’ll need to spend a lot of money to get one.

Speed of Growth

Early on in a new plant’s life, growth is frequently slow to begin, and even after it does, it proceeds slowly. However, once it has a strong root system, “vines” will swiftly emerge on which new leaves will grow.

A very real possibility exists that your plant will remain in this state forever if it has just one leaf and no stem. Only rarely, and typically after several years, do Hoya kerrii leaves growing on their own give birth to new shoots. The growth rate will, of course, be zero if you actually have a non-grower.

Your plant may remain in that form for all time if you have just one leaf.

Height / Spread

Nowadays, a small plant is the most typical indoor form, but given time and the right conditions, your Hoya will spread out and take up a sizable amount of room.

Flowers

On more mature plants, you can anticipate a stunning annual show. In the summer, blooms with a profusion of tiny flowers arranged in a star pattern are frequently seen. They truly stand out and catch the eye because of the color contrast. Another frequent odor emanating from the blossoms is a subtle yet potent scent.

Anything Else?

Assuming you have a mature plant or a young plant with multiple leaves (anyone with a single leaf plant should save this website and check back in a year or two! Most likely, you’ve already spotted the vines that emerge from the plant’s inside.

Older vines are gray and frequently seem and feel “woody.” The majority of this rigidity comes from lignin created to sustain a large climbing plant (out in their natural habitat they tend to grow up and up). These vines gradually become thicker and more rigid, making training and bending nearly impossible.

The simple solution is to train the vines while they are still tender and growing, possibly over a little pot trellis, so that you get the precise framework you desire right away.

But what if you inherited an older specimen or failed to teach the plant when it was young?

You do, however, still have some limited influence over training. The plant will stretch and lose a small amount of rigidity if it becomes severely dehydrated, which means it hasn’t had water in a while. Although it isn’t much and reckless bending will harm the plant, you can try to shape the plant if you’re not satisfied with how it now looks.