How To Water Succulent Echeveria

Water based on temperature, as Echeveria will require a lot more

Rainwater collected from a roof is the ideal water to use since it lacks minerals that could damage the bloom or pruinose on the leaves of Echeveria and other succulent plants.

Never use water from a water softening unit, as salt kills plants.

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  • This makes sure that the entire soil column is moistened.
  • After that, let it dry.
  • Utilize quick-draining soil whenever possible and avoid keeping the soil moist.

I also suggest watering Echeveria with tempered water. It makes obvious that warming the water would reduce the risk of root rot.

Never allow the plant to sit in a saucer of water or let the soil remain moist for an extended period of time.

How frequently should Echeveria succulents be watered?

One of my responsibilities as a child was to water all of the houseplants. I padded around the house filling each pot until it was nearly overflowing each day after filling up the plastic watering can. I cherished listening for the water’s inconspicuous drip as it seeped through the ground. I could tell the plants needed to drink, and it made me feel good to do it.

One week after bringing home my first plant family, we cut to my adult apartment where two of my babies are looking ruffled. They were strong and healthy when I initially placed them on the kitchen ledge, but today, well, you be the judge.

Succulents and aloes are two deceptively difficult indoor plants to maintain. By the way, the other plants in my house—the flamingo flower, spider plant, prayer plant, and zz plant—all appear to be healthy. These two, though, prefer drier soil; they would detest having to water their plants every day. But because I was a brand-new plant mother, I wanted to greet them with open arms.

The aloe’s stunning coral petals started to dry up and fall off after a week. I wrote to Wade Wheatley, a horticulture at the Chicago Botanic Garden, in a panic and inquired as to whether I had overwatered the plants. He noted that the aloe’s bloom cycle, which lasts from winter to spring, may be coming to an end and that it is entirely normal for the blossoms to fall. Phew!

On the other hand, the succulent doesn’t appear typical. What’s left of the leaves appears to be wilting and smushy, and the bottom half of them have fallen off (some even slipped off with the least touch). I recalled Wheatley suggesting that damp succulent leaves can indicate overwatering.

I went to Kathie Hayden, manager of the Garden’s Plant Information Service, the go-to person for all things plant-related, for a detailed diagnostic.

About diagnosing and treating their plants, visitors ask all kinds of inquiries to Hayden. Following her review of my plant pictures, she stated what follows:

“The aloe’s stem has turned brown and the only thing I can make out about it is that the flowering has ceased. Pruning the stem back is secure.

“The wide genus of succulents known as echeveria plants like ordinary warmth from spring to autumn, but colder temperatures in the winter. If at all feasible, try to put the plant in a cooler area during the winter. Echeveria need frequent watering from spring through fall, so water as soon as the soil starts to feel dry. In the cold, you shouldn’t use the same amount of water. It should be sufficient to water the plant every one to two months. There may be fewer leaves of lighter color because you’ve been watering more frequently. Hopefully the plant will start to produce new growth if you allow the soil to somewhat dry out. The plant can be kept in a south-facing window, however during the summer you might wish to give some shade. No more humidity is required. In the heat, some additional fresh air will be beneficial.

The decision? Most likely, the succulent is overwatered. I’ll cut back my aloe plant, give the succulent a month to settle, then relocate it to a window with more shade.

  • Not every plant is made equally. Some indoor plants require continual hydration, while others can endure dry conditions. The amount and frequency of watering your plant should depend on the individual care instructions for it.
  • Don’t forget to include drainage holes to your container. If it doesn’t, moisture may become trapped in the soil, obstructing the roots’ access to oxygen and resulting in root rot.
  • Completely soak the root ball. Make sure to water the plants until water spills out of the drainage holes. By doing this, the entire root system gets irrigated. (Note: “Typically, root-bound plants have issues because water just rolls off and down the sides of the pot rather than penetrating the root ball. You are most likely looking at dead roots if the roots have dried out, according to Hayden.)

How do you know when to give water to Echeveria?

There is a ton of information on the internet regarding watering succulents, specifically about overwatering them. You already know that overwatering is one of the seven deadly sins of succulents and will almost certainly result in your succulent being less than perfect. However, succulents do require watering, so how can you tell when it is necessary to water them or if you are just going to let them wither away in a pool of water?

A succulent with enough watering would have thick, sturdy leaves. There should not be much give when you squeeze them between your fingers. They probably require watering if they are soft. Wrinkled leaves are another telltale clue; when plants are thirsty, they pucker and wrinkle their leaves.

“Only water when the earth is fully dry,” is a common phrase. This is true, but sometimes it can be challenging to detect when the soil is dry if your plant occupies most of the pot or if you have a topdressing. Keep in mind that you want to ensure that the soil is dry throughout the entire pot, not just on the top.

Picking up the pot is my tried-and-true, highly scientific method of determining whether my plants require water. Learn about your plants; eventually, you’ll be able to discern if the soil is dry or not by the weight of the pot. It goes without saying that a pot with dry soil will weigh far less than a container with moist dirt. Therefore, pick up your pots after watering them and feel their weight. Then, pick them up once they are dry and feel their weight once more. After some practice, it will come naturally to you to know when your plant needs to be watered.

Another simple approach is to poke a wooden skewer into the ground; if it emerges clean and dry, your soil is probably dry and your succulent needs watering. Your succulent will be alright for the time being even if it comes out dusty and moist.

Water meters are available in garden centers and on Amazon if you wish to use a real scientific method. These ought to make it clear to you if your plant requires watering or not.

Always keep in mind that succulents require a full soak; water them until the drainage pores are completely filled. Not even a spritz will do.

You now know how to determine whether your succulent needs watering. Do you have a favorite way to determine whether your plants need water? If you do, please tell me about it! You can leave a comment below, or you can find me uploading photos of my plants on several social media platforms; the links are on the sidebar.

How is an Echeveria succulent cared for?

After planting, echeverias require little care because they are low-maintenance plants.

  • 1. Use well-draining soil when planting echeveria plants. Echeverias do well in the majority of cactus potting soils because they allow for good drainage. To enhance drainage, you can also add perlite and gritty sand to potting mix.
  • 2. Plant echeveria in a pot without a coating. With drainage holes, a terra-cotta or unglazed container will help to absorb more moisture and protect the roots from overwatering.
  • 3. Make sure your plant gets complete light exposure. Echeverias need a lot of sunlight to grow correctly, like many succulents do. Put your plant in a spot with around six hours of direct sunlight each day. If your echeveria is not receiving enough sunshine, it will elongate or extend toward the nearest source of light. This can be seen in the shape of the plant. During the hotter summer months, take into consideration relocating your echeveria outside.
  • 4.Avoid drowning your echeveria in water. Overwatering can lead to mealybugs and root rot in echeverias, which are extremely sensitive to it. When watering, wet the soil completely, then wait until it is completely dry before watering again.
  • 5. Ensure that the temperature around your plant is acceptable. Echeverias are intolerant of chilly temperatures and prefer arid environments. The plants should be grown in a dry environment because excessive humidity might induce root rot, which will kill the plants. Echeveria plants typically thrive at temperatures about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the average home temperature.
  • 6. When your echeveria has outgrown its container, repotte it. Most echeveria plants don’t need to be replanted very frequently. If your plant appears to have outgrown its container, carefully remove it, remove any soil from around its roots, and then replant it in a new container with new cactus potting soil. The start of the Echeveria genus’ growing season makes spring the ideal time to repot these plants.

Painted lady echeveria (Echeveria derenbergii)

Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.

This succulent native to Mexico has compact, dense, pale-green basal rosettes with pink tips. It has many offshoots, only reaches a height of 4 inches, and blooms profusely throughout the summer. Since echeverias are especially prone to “stretching,” give them the strongest light possible. One of the many plant genera that are frequently referred to as stonecrop is Echeveria.


Many succulent gardeners fall short of providing their plants with the necessary amount of light. Your echeveria must be placed in a window where it will get at least six hours of sunlight every day. Your plant will start to stretch and lose its appealing, compact form in the absence of prolonged, direct light. Even during its winter rest phase, a painted lady echeveria should continue to receive bright light.

Artificial lights should be considered, either alone or in combination with natural light, if the sunlight coming through your sunniest window is insufficient. Good results can be obtained by placing a white fluorescent light 6 to 12 inches above the plant. Artificial light must be provided for at least 14 to 16 hours each day and cannot be as strong as daylight.

Water and Humidity:

The most common reason for succulent failure is too much water, thus watering needs to be done carefully. The time of year should affect your irrigation schedule. Typically, water your echeveria only as often as necessary from October through February during the low-light conditions of winter to keep the leaves from puckering (once a month or so). Your plant enjoys prolonged dry conditions and is not currently in an active growth phase.

To avoid wetting the leaves when watering, let the plant absorb tepid water from below.

Water more regularly as the amount of daylight increases and the plant resumes active development, but make sure to let the soil completely dry in between applications. Because of their thin roots, succulents are readily damaged by overwatering. They don’t require humidity to thrive, thus misting is not recommended. Instead of placing them near leafy plants, give them sufficient air movement.


With the temperatures that can be achieved in homes in the New York region, succulents are content. Temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day are tolerable. The temperature must change by at least 10 degrees from day to night for the painted lady echeveria to flourish. The ideal range for daytime temperatures during the winter rest period is 55° to 60° F.

Your house is a microclimate in itself. In the winter, locations near windows may be sunny, but they are also cool (usually 10 degrees colder than the center of the room). In comparison to the rest of the room and the home, a south-facing window warms up more during the day in the summer. For the best plant placement in your home, research the microclimates. Plants may need to be relocated to their most cozy spot for the season.


Only repot in the spring if absolutely essential. Your succulent’s health is greatly influenced by the soil and container you choose for it. These plants are susceptible to unexpected mortality from moisture that becomes trapped around their tiny root systems. A succulent’s natural habitat’s loose, well-draining soil composition should be modeled after the optimum soil. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Commercial cactus mixes are fine, if not ideal, and widely accessible; nevertheless, stay away from combinations that include food. You need a draining hole in the bottom of your pot.


Only feed Painted Lady Echeveria during their growing season (March through September). It is typically advised to feed cacti or houseplants a cactus or houseplant food three to four times during the growing season. Avoid using any plant food with a high nitrogen content. If nourishment is not limited, this plant can spread up to several feet wide.

Summer Vacation?

Give your echeveria a vacation in the big outdoors once it warms up outside and there is plenty of sunlight. By bringing the container outside for progressively longer times over the course of a few weeks, you may acclimate the plant to variations in light and temperature. Avoid noon sunshine as much as possible, and pay close attention to the increased outdoor water needs. You’ll be rewarded with your plant’s increased vigor!

Winter Rest Period:

It’s crucial to recognize and relax your echeveria during its non-active development period. This plant requires less water, food, and temperature from October to February, but direct sunlight should still be present.

What to Watch for:

Maintain a light mist by watering from below. The leaf crown won’t last if water is allowed to collect there.

To prevent pest infestations beneath the rosette, remove any dead leaves there.

If echeverias don’t get enough sun or are overwatered in the winter, they will grow longer.