Temperature & Light: The festive cacti thrive in bright shade. In the fall and winter, full sunshine is advantageous, but in the summer, intense sunlight can cause plants to seem pale and yellow. In the growing season from April to September, temperatures between 70 and 80 F are ideal for spring and summer growth. The Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti need on shorter (8 to 10 hour) days and cooler temperatures in the fall to develop their flower buds. Once the flower buds are set in the fall, do not allow the temperature to reach above 90 F. The loss of flower buds can be a result of persistently warm conditions. In the event that it gets below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, do not leave these cactus outside.
Temperature control and photoperiod (control of the duration of the day and night) control are key factors in successful flower bud formation in the fall. The plants require the following for the initiation of flower buds:
- dazzling light
- long evenings Before flower buds to set, there must be at least 14 hours per day of nonstop darkness. For a full bud set, long nights should begin around the middle of September and last for at least six weeks. Be aware that even two hours of intermittent lighting can prevent flower buds from setting. In 3 to 4 weeks, buds will often start to appear. Once the buds are set, the photoperiod has little impact on flowering.
- For optimal flower production, fall growth temperatures should be kept between 60 and 68 oF, ideally as close to 68 oF as feasible. Regardless of the length of the day, plants cultivated with night temperatures between 50 and 59 oF will produce flower buds, however growth will be slower and bud drop may happen at this temperature.
- Early in June, prune the stems to encourage branching and additional flower terminals.
- At the end of September, pinching—also known as leveling—is done to cut off any terminal phylloclades that are less than 1 cm (0.4 inch) and to roughly equalize the length of all stems. These young, immature stem segments won’t begin blossom buds until they are fully developed. A flower bud develops on the earlier, more developed stem segment following the removal of a brief phylloclade.
Fertilizer and Watering: Water the growing media until it feels completely dry to the touch. The spring and summer months can be dry and mildly underwatered for the holiday cacti. Avoid letting the soil become soggy, especially during the gloomy winter months, but also avoid letting it fully dry up. To avoid flower bud abscission, the growing medium must be kept consistently moist after bud set in the fall. In the saucer underneath the pot, never let water stand.
Use a half strength soluble fertilizer, such as a 20-10-20 or 20-20-20 with trace elements, to fertilize plants every month beginning when new growth begins in late winter or early spring and continuing through the summer. Compared to many plants, holiday cacti have a greater magnesium need. During the growing season, fertilize once a month with Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) blended at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, but avoid applying the fertilizer the same week. Stop fertilizing in the late summer to increase the formation of bloom buds in the fall.
The Christmas cacti flower best when kept fairly pot-bound, according to the growing medium. Repotting is best done in the spring and is only required about once every three years. These epiphytic cacti do not grow well in heavy, wet potting mixes, thus the potting medium needs to be well-drained and well-aerated. A excellent mixture can have 60–80% potting soil and 40–20% perlite. Pick a potting soil that is pH balanced and of good quality.
How much water should you give a cactus for Thanksgiving?
The Thanksgiving cactus is sensitive to overwatering, therefore it should never be waterlogged. Water thoroughly until water drains out of the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot after allowing the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry between applications.
Should I mist my cactus of thanksgiving?
The Thanksgiving Cactus enjoys occasional mistings of water. These plants don’t require weekly watering, although sporadic watering and more regular misting are both highly beneficial to them.
How should a Thanksgiving cactus be watered—from the top or the bottom?
By using a bottom watering approach, the cactus roots will grow downward and take in enough water. In actuality, top watering never completely saturates your potting mix. In a technical sense, it indicates that water is not getting to your plant’s roots.
How frequently should Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti be watered?
Christmas cacti are highly common indoor plants, and for good reason too! They produce vibrant, tubular flowers that are pink or purple in hue when they bloom. They are a superb plant because of their lovely blossoms, lengthy bloom period, and simple maintenance needs. Someone in your family most likely owns a Christmas cactus!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins don’t exist in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, in contrast to other cacti. These epiphytic succulents, which grow on tree branches and take in the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures, are actually endemic to the tropical rainforests of southern Brazil.
Bottom line: Don’t handle a Christmas cactus like a typical succulent or cactus. They are unable to withstand the same kind of hot, dry weather that other cactus can. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you also need to be careful not to overwater them. (See the care guidelines in more detail below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
The Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three main varieties of “holiday cacti” that are available (S. x buckleyi). The holiday that each cactus is named after often sees the most blooming. Thanksgiving cacti, which often bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti, make up the majority of “Christmas cacti” sold nowadays. See our post on the several Christmas cacti species and how to distinguish them for more information.
Note: Because it’s the most widely used term and it applies to all three of these species, we’ll refer to all three of them on this page as “Christmas cactus” for simplicity’s sake.
Potting Christmas Cacti
- Choose a pot with a drainage hole on the bottom if you’re choosing one for a Christmas cactus. This prevents the soil from getting overly saturated.
- Most succulent-specific potting mixtures work well for Christmas cacti growth. It’s crucial that your potting soil drains properly.
Where to Put a Christmas Cactus
- Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. The best location has an east-facing window or a well-lit bathroom. The delicate leaves might be bleached by too much direct sunshine.
- It is preferable to have a daytime temperature of 70F (21C) and an evening temperature of 60–65F (15–18C).
- Christmas cacti do well in a more humid climate, so keeping them in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
- Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady area of the garden or on an unheated porch during the summer until the temperature drops below 50F. (10C). Keep them away from the sun’s rays outside.
How to Care for Christmas Cacti
- Water your plants every two to three weeks, but only when the top third of the soil feels dry to the touch. If the plant is in 6 inches of soil, for instance, water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. (Check with your finger!)
- When the soil is completely dry, wet it until water seeps through the drainage holes in the pot. To collect the water, put a tray underneath the pot. To prevent the pot from sitting in water, remove any extra water on the tray after 10 to 15 minutes.
- While the plant is in bloom, it’s very crucial to water thoroughly.
- Feed your indoor plants with a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks from spring through early fall. Feed the cactus once a month in the fall and winter to promote fruitful blooming.
- To promote branching and more flowers, prune plants in the late spring. Simply cut a portion of each stem off; the plant will grow new branches from the incision.
- If desired, plant the cut pieces in potting soil that is only gently damp; they will easily root after a few weeks and make wonderful Christmas gifts!
How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom
The longer evenings and chilly weather of fall are what cause Christmas cacti and its relatives to bloom. The three major varieties of holiday cacti typically bloom on the following schedule:
- Thanksgiving cactus typically produce flowers from late October through mid-winter, making them the earliest and longest bloomers.
- Christmas cacti often bloom in the early to midwinter months.
- Easter cacti flower around the middle of spring through late winter.
If your cactus isn’t flowering, it can be getting too much light or being exposed to too much heat. Here are some suggestions to help you get blooms from yours!
- For a minimum of six weeks, the nights must be at least 14 hours long and the days between 8 and 10 hours. You might need to cover your cactus or relocate it to an area that is exposed to the natural light cycle if you have powerful interior lighting that is on at night.
- When the plant is kept at temps between 50 and 60F, flower buds form best (10 and 15C).
- By subjecting the plant to temps around 45F (7C) for a number of nights in a succession, you can jumpstart the budding process.
- While the plant is in bloom, be sure to water it consistently. The plant may lose its buds if it dries out too much.
- Don’t worry if the cactus loses its buds one winter; the following year it should bloom.
The three primary varieties of “holiday cacti” are as follows:
- Often mistaken for Christmas cacti, Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) bloom from late October to mid-winter.
- Christmas cacti (S. x buckleyi) flower in the early to midwinter months.
- Late winter to mid-spring is the blooming period for Easter cacti (S. gaertneri).
- Make sure to water your Christmas cactus frequently and keep it cool when the buds on the plant appear ready to open.
- The optimum time to propagate cuttings is late spring when most holiday cacti start to grow after their winter hibernation.
Blossom loss: Your Christmas cactus will probably lose its blossoms if it experiences any kind of stress. As mentioned in the plant care section above, this could be caused by the amount of light or a sudden shift in temperature. Make sure your soil doesn’t become overly dry while buds are developing.
The plant could be vulnerable to mealy bugs and root rot if overwatered. If you experience issues, remove the affected sections and repot the plant in fresh soil.
Why are my Thanksgiving cactus’ limp leaves?
Lack of water or much sunlight can occasionally result in wilted or weak Christmas cacti. Start by giving the wilting Christmas cactus a small amount of water if you haven’t been watering it. Every few days, continue to water carefully until the soil is barely damp.
Christmas cactus issues can also result from excessively damp soil. The Christmas cactus cannot tolerate wet roots since it is an epiphyte in its natural habitat on the ground of tropical forests, where it takes moisture and nutrients from the air. The roots of Christmas cacti can become excessively wet and floppy because to poor drainage.
Move your wilted or limp Christmas cactus to a location with more shade, especially in the afternoon, if the leaves look dried or burned.
Why is my cactus of thanksgiving wilting?
Root- or stem rot at the plant’s base is the likely cause of your plant’s stems falling off. This always happens as a result of over-watering.
Care: Adhere to the suggestions listed under “Wilted or Shriveled Leaves” (Problem #2, Care #1) for over-watering. This will outline the proper way to take care of a plant that has received excessive water.
How long should I let my Thanksgiving cactus go without water?
The collection of plants known as “Holiday Cactus” acquire their names from their capacity (with a little help) to bloom during holiday seasons, making them a popular gift to brighten the darker months. Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), and Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), all of which come in a variety of hybrids and shades, are the most well-liked varieties.
These plants are simple to grow and are frequently inherited from previous generations.
My mother, who received it from her mother, gave it to me as my first one. The trick to growing holiday cacti is getting them to bloom, not how to grow them. Your plants can bloom in time for the holidays with a little additional care during the fall months.
About Holiday Cactus
the title “The word “cactus” is a little deceptive because these plants have nothing to do with the familiar, meaty, spiny cacti. Rather, they are “They are called epiphytes because they live in the high branches of rainforest trees, where they obtain their nutrition from pockets of decomposing plant waste and adjust to the water shortages caused by the rain’s rapid evaporation.
Many bromeliads and orchids are epiphytes as well. These plants can survive as houseplants in temperate climates thanks to their growth pattern, which makes them better adapted to the slightly drier conditions and filtered sunshine of the tropical tree canopy.
Holiday cactus blossoms are available in a variety of hues, including white, pink, red, purple, and salmon-orange. Older plants will have long, arched stems that make them ideal for plant stands or hanging baskets.
Holiday Cactus Grower’s Calendar
Don’t let the word intimidate you “calendar, as these plants in fact benefit from mild neglect. They can even be stored away in a cool spare room and require very little in the way of nutrients and occasional watering. However, following these monthly suggestions will ensure that your plant grows and blooms as needed.
January: If you were given a holiday cactus, you have a free hand to start the month. After blooming, give your plant about a month to rest. Water it sparingly until it begins to grow, and keep it in a cool area with indirect light.
February: You can repot your holiday cactus if necessary from now until April. Try to avoid the desire unless you think the plant is suffering from bad soil because they like to be root-bound.
March: You can pinch or trim your plant as new growth starts. You can plant these cuttings to grow additional plants!
The growing season for the plant lasts from April to September. You can give it an all-purpose plant food with a 1-1-1 ratio every few weeks if you’d like. Move it outside, but do it in a cool, shaded area. Water simply enough to wet the root ball when the top inch of soil feels dry (no more than once per week). Never soak the plant more than once, and never let water sit in the drainage tray.
The crucial period between September and October is when you can be sure that your holiday cactus will bloom. Put your holiday cactus in a cold room starting in September (preferably about 50 F), with indirect bright light for 10–12 hours, followed by complete darkness for 12–14 hours.” Absolute blackness entails neither natural nor artificial light. To do this, you can simply move your plants in and out of a dark closet or cover them with a thick piece of fabric. Just be careful the plant doesn’t get damaged by the cover. To ensure the development of flower buds, they will require these circumstances for 6–8 weeks. Stop fertilizing, and water the soil only enough to keep it slightly damp (once every couple of weeks).
November–December: Once your plant has an abundance of bloom buds, you can stop the light–dark cycle and leave it outside to enjoy. Restart light watering. The blooms will remain longer in a colder environment!
Holiday Cactus Tips
Keep these plants away from frigid conditions! Although they enjoy milder weather, they are still tropical plants and cannot endure freezing temperatures.
Your holiday cactus should never be placed close to a heat register, external door, or drafty window. It should also be kept away from direct sunlight.
Cuttings are an easy way to multiply holiday cacti. Pinch off a stem portion with two to three jointed parts. The cuttings should be placed in a tiny pot with the same planting mix as the adult plant after drying for a few hours. The cuttings will root and flourish in a few weeks if you treat them exactly like an adult plant.
Avoid the temptation of continually repotting into larger pots. Repotting the holiday cactus every two to three years (even back into the same pot) is sufficient because it like to remain root-bound. Use sterile, well-draining potting soil when repotting, like what is sold for bromeliads, orchids, or African violets.