After planting, echeverias require little care because they are low-maintenance plants.
- 1. Use well-draining soil when planting echeveria plants. Echeverias do well in the majority of cactus potting soils because they allow for good drainage. To enhance drainage, you can also add perlite and gritty sand to potting mix.
- 2. Plant echeveria in a pot without a coating. With drainage holes, a terra-cotta or unglazed container will help to absorb more moisture and protect the roots from overwatering.
- 3. Make sure your plant gets complete light exposure. Echeverias need a lot of sunlight to grow correctly, like many succulents do. Put your plant in a spot with around six hours of direct sunlight each day. If your echeveria is not receiving enough sunshine, it will elongate or extend toward the nearest source of light. This can be seen in the shape of the plant. During the hotter summer months, take into consideration relocating your echeveria outside.
- 4.Avoid drowning your echeveria in water. Overwatering can lead to mealybugs and root rot in echeverias, which are extremely sensitive to it. When watering, wet the soil completely, then wait until it is completely dry before watering again.
- 5. Ensure that the temperature around your plant is acceptable. Echeverias are intolerant of chilly temperatures and prefer arid environments. The plants should be grown in a dry environment because excessive humidity might induce root rot, which will kill the plants. Echeveria plants typically thrive at temperatures about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the average home temperature.
- 6. When your echeveria has outgrown its container, repotte it. Most echeveria plants don’t need to be replanted very frequently. If your plant appears to have outgrown its container, carefully remove it, remove any soil from around its roots, and then replant it in a new container with new cactus potting soil. The start of the Echeveria genus’ growing season makes spring the ideal time to repot these plants.
How frequently should Echeveria succulents be watered?
One of my responsibilities as a child was to water all of the houseplants. I padded around the house filling each pot until it was nearly overflowing each day after filling up the plastic watering can. I cherished listening for the water’s inconspicuous drip as it seeped through the ground. I could tell the plants needed to drink, and it made me feel good to do it.
One week after bringing home my first plant family, we cut to my adult apartment where two of my babies are looking ruffled. They were strong and healthy when I initially placed them on the kitchen ledge, but today, well, you be the judge.
Succulents and aloes are two deceptively difficult indoor plants to maintain. By the way, the other plants in my house—the flamingo flower, spider plant, prayer plant, and zz plant—all appear to be healthy. These two, though, prefer drier soil; they would detest having to water their plants every day. But because I was a brand-new plant mother, I wanted to greet them with open arms.
The aloe’s stunning coral petals started to dry up and fall off after a week. I wrote to Wade Wheatley, a horticulture at the Chicago Botanic Garden, in a panic and inquired as to whether I had overwatered the plants. He noted that the aloe’s bloom cycle, which lasts from winter to spring, may be coming to an end and that it is entirely normal for the blossoms to fall. Phew!
On the other hand, the succulent doesn’t appear typical. What’s left of the leaves appears to be wilting and smushy, and the bottom half of them have fallen off (some even slipped off with the least touch). I recalled Wheatley suggesting that damp succulent leaves can indicate overwatering.
I went to Kathie Hayden, manager of the Garden’s Plant Information Service, the go-to person for all things plant-related, for a detailed diagnostic.
About diagnosing and treating their plants, visitors ask all kinds of inquiries to Hayden. Following her review of my plant pictures, she stated what follows:
“The aloe’s stem has turned brown and the only thing I can make out about it is that the flowering has ceased. Pruning the stem back is secure.
“The wide genus of succulents known as echeveria plants like ordinary warmth from spring to autumn, but colder temperatures in the winter. If at all feasible, try to put the plant in a cooler area during the winter. Echeveria need frequent watering from spring through fall, so water as soon as the soil starts to feel dry. In the cold, you shouldn’t use the same amount of water. It should be sufficient to water the plant every one to two months. There may be fewer leaves of lighter colour because you’ve been watering more frequently. Hopefully the plant will start to produce new growth if you allow the soil to somewhat dry out. The plant can be kept in a south-facing window, however during the summer you might wish to give some shade. No more humidity is required. In the heat, some additional fresh air will be beneficial.
The decision? Most likely, the succulent is overwatered. I’ll cut back my aloe plant, give the succulent a month to settle, then relocate it to a window with more shade.
- Not every plant is made equally. Some indoor plants require continual hydration, while others can endure dry conditions. The amount and frequency of watering your plant should depend on the individual care instructions for it.
- Don’t forget to include drainage holes to your container. If it doesn’t, moisture may become trapped in the soil, obstructing the roots’ access to oxygen and resulting in root rot.
- Completely soak the root ball. Make sure to water the plants until water spills out of the drainage holes. By doing this, the entire root system gets irrigated. (Note: “Typically, root-bound plants have issues because water just rolls off and down the sides of the pot rather than penetrating the root ball. You are most likely looking at dead roots if the roots have dried out, according to Hayden.)
How should a succulent Echeveria be cared for indoors?
Plant Care Advice for Echeveria Bright light with some solar exposure. If you want to relocate this succulent that enjoys the sun outside for the summer, do it before nightly lows of 55F/13C because it is not cold-hardy. Water: Water sparingly during the winter months and lightly mist the mixture from spring through October.
Painted lady echeveria (Echeveria derenbergii)
Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.
This succulent native to Mexico has compact, dense, pale-green basal rosettes with pink tips. It has many offshoots, only reaches a height of 4 inches, and blooms profusely throughout the summer. Since echeverias are especially prone to “stretching,” give them the strongest light possible. One of the many plant genera that are frequently referred to as stonecrop is Echeveria.
Many succulent gardeners fall short of providing their plants with the necessary amount of light. Your echeveria must be placed in a window where it will get at least six hours of sunlight every day. Your plant will start to stretch and lose its appealing, compact form in the absence of prolonged, direct light. Even during its winter rest phase, a painted lady echeveria should continue to receive bright light.
Artificial lights should be considered, either alone or in combination with natural light, if the sunlight coming through your sunniest window is insufficient. Good results can be obtained by placing a white fluorescent light 6 to 12 inches above the plant. Artificial light must be provided for at least 14 to 16 hours each day and cannot be as strong as daylight.
Water and Humidity:
The most common reason for succulent failure is too much water, thus watering needs to be done carefully. The time of year should affect your irrigation schedule. Typically, water your echeveria only as often as necessary from October through February during the low-light conditions of winter to keep the leaves from puckering (once a month or so). Your plant enjoys prolonged dry conditions and is not currently in an active growth phase.
To avoid wetting the leaves when watering, let the plant absorb tepid water from below.
Water more regularly as the amount of daylight increases and the plant resumes active development, but make sure to let the soil completely dry in between applications. Because of their thin roots, succulents are readily damaged by overwatering. They don’t require humidity to thrive, thus misting is not recommended. Instead of placing them near leafy plants, give them sufficient air movement.
With the temperatures that can be achieved in homes in the New York region, succulents are content. Temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day are tolerable. The temperature must change by at least 10 degrees from day to night for the painted lady echeveria to flourish. The ideal range for daytime temperatures during the winter rest period is 55° to 60° F.
Your house is a microclimate in itself. In the winter, locations near windows may be sunny, but they are also cool (usually 10 degrees colder than the centre of the room). In comparison to the rest of the room and the home, a south-facing window warms up more during the day in the summer. For the best plant placement in your home, research the microclimates. Plants may need to be relocated to their most cosy spot for the season.
Only repot in the spring if absolutely essential. Your succulent’s health is greatly influenced by the soil and container you choose for it. These plants are susceptible to unexpected mortality from moisture that becomes trapped around their tiny root systems. A succulent’s natural habitat’s loose, well-draining soil composition should be modelled after the optimum soil. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Commercial cactus mixes are fine, if not ideal, and widely accessible; nevertheless, stay away from combinations that include food. You need a draining hole in the bottom of your pot.
Only feed Painted Lady Echeveria during their growing season (March through September). It is typically advised to feed cacti or houseplants a cactus or houseplant food three to four times during the growing season. Avoid using any plant food with a high nitrogen content. If nourishment is not limited, this plant can spread up to several feet wide.
Give your echeveria a vacation in the big outdoors once it warms up outside and there is plenty of sunlight. By bringing the container outside for progressively longer times over the course of a few weeks, you may acclimate the plant to variations in light and temperature. Avoid noon sunshine as much as possible, and pay close attention to the increased outdoor water needs. You’ll be rewarded with your plant’s increased vigour!
Winter Rest Period:
It’s crucial to recognise and relax your echeveria during its non-active development period. This plant requires less water, food, and temperature from October to February, but direct sunlight should still be present.
What to Watch for:
Maintain a light mist by watering from below. The leaf crown won’t last if water is allowed to collect there.
To prevent pest infestations beneath the rosette, remove any dead leaves there.
If echeverias don’t get enough sun or are overwatered in the winter, they will grow longer.
How is an Echeveria plant cared for?
Watering is the most crucial aspect of effective Echeveria maintenance. Overwatering is the main issue with succulents. During the hot, dry season, give out a reasonable amount of water. Before you irrigate once more, let the soil to totally dry up. You shouldn’t leave potted plants in a moist saucer. When the plant is overly damp, problems with soft rots and root rot arise.
Mealybugs are the only other thing to be worried about. Their eating habits have the potential to significantly reduce plant vitality.
Place the plants in full sun, and use gravel or sand as a mulch around them to keep weeds and dampness from growing.
Winterize potted plants indoors to keep them safe from freezing weather. Although the plants don’t require pruning, you can trim away any damaged or errant growth as necessary.
How can I determine the health of my Echeveria?
Succulents are fashionable and trendy plants to have about your house or place of business, but they can be difficult to maintain. We are here to assist you in maintaining the health and vitality of your planted bundles of delight. This blog post will teach you how to correctly water your succulents, where to keep them, and how to recognise the telltale indications of a succulent in trouble.
Starting Off On The Right Foot
You must begin with a succulent that is in good shape if you want to give your plants the best chance of surviving. Fortunately, this shouldn’t be a concern if you get your succulents from Succulent Bar! We purchase our succulents from nearby plant nurseries, and we carefully choose each succulent we offer to our clients. Our succulents are handled with the utmost care and are guaranteed to be in excellent condition when received, whether they are shipped or purchased in person.
Succulents with brilliant colours, firm leaves, and sluggish growth are healthy. Succulents are not designed to expand rapidly. So, despite the fact that this would appear to be a bad indication, it actually is. Additionally, you could occasionally discover dried leaves at the base of your succulent, but this is also a positive sign. Succulents actually grow by losing their old leaves. Dried leaves indicate healthy growth in your succulent.
In general, succulents need a lot of indirect light, and the majority of species will burn in hot light. Sunlight that filters through objects like window coverings, tree leaves, or bounces off of walls is referred to as indirect sunlight (think a covered patio). Usually, 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day are ideal. The optimum location for a succulent indoors is on a sunny window sill that faces south or west.
Compared to most plants, succulents need far less water and less frequent irrigation. The majority of succulents usually die from overwatering. Check the soil of your succulent as a general rule. Every time you water, your soil should be completely dry. Following that, you’re welcome to water with 1-2 teaspoons of water and make adjustments. A little water goes a long way because the majority of succulents have very shallow root systems. Succulents dislike having their roots wet for an extended period of time, or having “wet feet.”
How to Water
If water remains on the leaves of succulents for too long, they are prone to easy decay. It is advisable to lift your succulent’s leaves and water the plant’s base as opposed to sprinkling or drenching the top of the plant because these plants absorb water through their roots. Tools like a spoon, straw, watering can, or mister can be used for this. Native to regions that receive a lot of water before going through a drought, succulents (think desserts). What does that imply then? It implies that they favour the soak-and-dry approach. After giving them a nice sip of water, wait until they are COMPLETELY dry before watering them once more. Water your succulents on average once every two to three weeks, and avoid letting their soil remain wet for more than a few days at a time.
In pots with adequate drainage, plants grow the best. Therefore, the best choice is to use pots with holes in the bottom. You can buy containers with holes already drilled into them or you can drill or poke holes yourself into your container. However, just because the majority of containers—especially the really adorable ones—don’t have drainage holes doesn’t mean you can’t use them. It DOES mean, however, that you should water your succulents properly, taking care to avoid soaking the soil for extended periods of time. See the How to Water section above.
Cactus soil that has been aerated is ideal for succulent growth. After watering, cactus soil tends to dry out quickly, protecting your succulent against root rot and too much water. Most plant nurseries and department shops with garden centres, such Lowe’s, Home Depot, and Walmart, carry this kind of soil. Your soil must be formed of substances like sand, moss, perlite, bark, and pumice and have a grittier texture.
Soggy or yellowed leaves
Typically, mushy, yellow leaves indicate that you have overwatered your succulent. Transferring your succulent to completely dry cactus soil is the best approach to preserve one that has been overwatered. After that, consider reducing the amount of water you give your succulent by only watering it with 1-2 tablespoons when the soil is fully dry. Depending on the habitat, this normally occurs every two to four weeks.
Your succulent may be rotting if you overwatered it or provided it with insufficient drainage. Without drainage, excess water will build up inside your container and cannot leave, rotting your succulent. Make sure your container has the right drainage holes by checking. If not, make holes in your container with a drill or a pin or transfer to a different container. See the information under “Containers” above if your container does not have a drainage hole.
A plant that has underwatered will have wilted, rubbery leaves. Water your succulent with 1-2 tablespoons of water to start fixing this issue. After then, don’t water again until the earth is completely dry. If this occurs more quickly than 3–4 weeks, it might be time to increase your water intake. Over the coming weeks and months, test the watering frequency once more to determine the ideal amount for your succulent.
Your succulent requires more light if you notice that it is getting taller and has wider spaces between its leaves. Although it can look fantastic that your succulent is expanding, succulents actually grow very slowly. Your succulent is enlarging as a result of its search for more light. If you experience this issue, relocate your succulent as soon as possible to a sunny window sill. Sadly, stretching cannot be undone. After that, your succulent will continue to grow and prosper, but its stem will still be stretched.
The presence of dark patches on your succulent’s leaves indicates overexposure to sunshine and burnt foliage. These “burns” won’t go away, but as your succulent grows, it will ultimately slough off these leaves. Simply move your succulent to a less bright area to solve this problem.