Succulent maintenance is one thing, but mold removal is quite another. How would you approach doing that?
You can use a variety of DIY fungicides or buy a commercial fungicide to get rid of mold on succulents. Neem oil, milk spray, baking soda mixtures, and mouthwash are examples of homemade fungicides. It will be advisable to buy a commercial spray if the DIY solutions fail.
Succulents may provide some amazing color and decor to your home. But some of that attractiveness can be compromised by mold spores on the green foliage. This post will explain how mold develops in the first place, how to treat it, and how to prevent mold for a long-lasting and healthy succulent if you are experiencing this issue.
What should I do if mold grows on my succulent?
Early indications of this fungus include round, gray-brown spots on the surfaces of leaves and stems. As the infection worsens, these spots turn fuzzy with mold. It is the type of fungus that spreads when the weather starts to cool down and get damp, typically in the early Spring or Summer. It thrives in a moist, shaded area with poor airflow.
Dishwashing soap is one of the most used home-made fungicides in the early signs of a plant affected by grey mold. Just make sure it doesn’t contain bleach or greasers. The damaged regions of plants with severe grey mold infections must be removed. It’s best to refrain from watering from the top as well.
Leaf stains
Succulents can get fungal leaf spots indoors and outdoors, although they are not harmful. What makes it annoying is that when the fungus becomes too accustomed to your plant, the small area will enlarge and start to resemble a blotch, which will probably eventually kill your plant.
A succulent with Leaf Spots can be treated in a number of secure and practical ways. You can either spray your succulent with a moderate solution of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, or you can use an all-purpose fungicide.
fungus wilt
Fusarium Wilt is a fungus that lives in the soil. It penetrates the plant through the roots and starts reproducing in the vascular tissues, obstructing the plant’s ability to absorb water, leading to severe stress, wilting, yellowing, and most likely, death.
Regrettably, there is currently no known cure for fusarium wilt in plants. The fastest removal and disposal of the infected plant is the best advised course of action for this fungus. Fusarium-contaminated soil must also be removed. This will aid in limiting the spread of the fungus.
Anthracnose
A series of fungal infections known as anthracnose are brought on by members of the Colletotrichum genus. Circular, pale, sunken, or brownish patches that are characteristic of this type of fungus will cause the plant tissues to dry up and become hard like bark.
The only way to save your succulent once it has been attacked by this fungus is to remove the afflicted leaves. To further prevent the spread of this fungus, it is best to replace the contaminated plant’s soil and pot in addition to thoroughly cleaning all of your instruments.
You can apply fungicides that contain chlorothalonil, copper sprays with copper diammonia diacetate, propiconazole, and systemic fungicide thiophanate-methyl to eliminate any remaining fungal bodies and to maintain control.
Rotten Root and Crown
In comparison to other fungal illnesses, root and crown rots are among the hardest to diagnose. They don’t exhibit any distinctive symptoms that could enable you to identify an infection in your succulent.
To give you an example, a plant with root rot will first begin to wilt, then the leaves will start to turn brown, and finally the stems will start to rot, causing the plant to topple over. The roots will turn brown beneath the earth and will easily separate if the soil is carefully scraped away.
Fine feeder roots typically maintain a healthy white to tan color and can hold the root ball together effectively even if the root crown is also diseased. However, as soon as the plant’s soil is removed, brown spots can be seen on the cortex of the roots as well as the root crown or stem base.
Sadly, therapy does not work well for root and crown rot. However, this can be prevented by lowering moisture. Simply use a well-draining container and give your succulents the appropriate amount of water to achieve this. Just enough to meet the requirements of your plant. Additionally, any mulch that is longer than 4 inches should be removed to avoid letting your plant remain in excessively moist soil.
Why does the white mold on my succulent exist?
Powdery mildew is rare in succulents, but it can occur in some species.
The symptoms of powdery mildew include a white coating that develops into splotchy areas on the leaves.
Usually, powdery mildew develops on succulent leaves after prolonged contact with water or when the soil is very damp.
It is best to isolate your succulent as soon as you discover any powdery mildew symptoms to stop it from spreading. Use safer soap or isopropyl alcohol to remove the mildew.
How can a sick succulent be saved?
Yes, I am aware that it seems illogical to remove extra water from the soil, but bear with me. This is the justification. Too much water has already put the succulent under stress, and exposure to sunlight makes matters worse. Direct sunlight is a big no because most succulents require brilliant indirect light.
Place the succulent that has been overwatered somewhere dry and bright, but out of direct sunshine.
2. Permit the roots to breathe.
Cut off any brown or black roots as they are already rotting. Dig the succulent out of the ground and remove any excess soil that has become stuck to the roots. Place the plant on a mesh or other strainer until the roots have had two to three days to air dry. Replant the roots in the pot once they have dried completely.
Remove the entire root system and any puckered, spotty, black, or brown stems if the roots are entirely rotted. The succulent stem can be buried in the ground for propagation.
Keep the overwatered succulent on a mesh screen or other strainer until the roots have had two to three days to air dry.
3. Modify the ground
You might not need to entirely alter your succulent if it is already rooted in homemade or commercial succulent soil. Algae (green living matter) typically grows on soil that is too wet. If so, it is your responsibility to remove all of the top soil from the area around your plants and replace it with new succulent soil.
Can rot be cured in a succulent?
The more quickly you act, the more likely you are to be able to save your plant. The likelihood that a plant may succumb to rot increases with the amount of overwatering. As you can see from the examples above, there are times when a plant is simply too damaged to be saved.
The plant is essentially drowning from too much water and needs to dry out as quickly as possible if it is exhibiting early signs of overwatering, such as mushy, soft, and pale bottom leaves.
Steps on How To Save an Overwatered Succulent:
- It is preferable to remove the plant from its current location and thoroughly clean the roots of any moist soil.
- For at least three days and up to a week, let the plant to completely dry out.
- The plant should be placed somewhere dry and sunny, but out of direct sunlight to prevent burning of the leaves and roots.
- Replant in an appropriate, fast-draining potting mix once it has dried up; do not water right away. Before watering again, wait about a week and take care not to overwater.
You might get away with leaving the plant alone and not repotting it if you believe it is already in the proper potting mix but you were just excessively watering your plants.
Prior to watering again, wait at least a week and feel the top inch of the soil for moisture. You can water it once more if it feels dry. Your plant needs a new pot if the soil is still moist because the soil it is now in is not drying out quickly enough.
Will The Leaves Grow Back?
Yes. As long as the plant is not decaying, even if you lose a lot of leaves due to overwatering, it will eventually recover. You may soon see fresh growth or tiny leaves along the stems if you allow it time to dry out.
Additionally, you’ll see new growth coming from the plant’s sides, top, or even bottom. When you start to see new growth, your plant is typically out of danger and has fully healed.
Steps on How to Save a Rotting Succulent From Overwatering:
- Check the plant to see how bad the rot is. You may be able to salvage some of the plant if the rot is not too bad.
- Keep any leaf that seems to be reusable. As many leaves as you can preserve for propagation. Leaf propagation can be challenging, so you’ll need as much leaf as you can obtain to give some of them a fighting chance. Ensure you collect the leaf in its entirety, including the base. A broken leaf won’t survive.
- Allow the leaves to dry for a few days by placing them somewhere dry and out of the sun.
- When the leaves are completely dry, either lay them flat on the soil or bury the ends in well-draining potting mix. You can dip the leaves in rooting hormone as an optional step. I tend to skip over this step, but other people prefer to add rooting hormones to boost success rates and expedite the propagation process.
- Avoid direct sunshine and water the soil every few days or if it seems dry. Await the development of new plants and their roots.
Other than leaves, you can also save parts of the stem
- Examine the stem, including the roots, and remove any rotten spots. Save any stem pieces that are still green or healthy. When you cut the stem, you will be able to tell if it is viable or not. If the stem’s inside reveals green, fragile sections that aren’t brown or black, they may have a chance of surviving and can be multiplied to start a new plant.
- Saved stems should be stored in a dry, shaded area. All cuts should calluses and seal after a few days to a week of drying. Dip the stems in rooting hormone, if desired. I tend to skip over this step, but other people prefer to add rooting hormones to boost success rates and expedite the propagation process.
- When the stems are dry, make a well-draining potting mix and place them in it.
- Every couple of days or whenever the soil gets dry, mist. To prevent sun damage, stay out of the sun until your roots are completely established.
You can see that the stem still has a lot of green, healthy sections after removing the decaying portion, indicating that it can be preserved. I placed this stem in soil to root and grow after letting it dry out for a few days.
Overwatered echeveria that has withered. I kept a few of the leaves for future growth.
What does mold on succulents resemble?
Similar to succulents, powdery mildew prefers warm, relatively dry environments. According to the University of Rhode Island GreenShare website, succulents are the plant varieties that are most commonly afflicted because they share comparable environmental conditions with powdery mildew. Your illness can just appear as the typical white, powdery covering. It might also seem gray with rounded growths of yellow, brown, or black color. Although the mildew can develop in a single location, it typically spreads to your plant’s other leaves, stems, and buds.
Can you remove mildew that is powdery?
For a fast visual inspection, note that powdery mildew can be scraped off the leaves. Eventually, mildew will cover leaves and entire plants, limiting photosynthesis, plant vigor, and bud quality. These fuzzy mycelium patches release airborne spores that quickly attack nearby plants.
Epicuticular Wax
A whitish film called epicuticular wax is found on the leaves, stems, and fruits of many different types of plants. You can find it on a variety of foods, including blueberries, plums, red grapes, apples, kale, and several succulents. It develops on the plant’s outer cuticle. Instead of actually wetting the plant, this wax causes water to bead up. Additionally, it tends to make dirt adhere to leaves only weakly so that it can be readily washed away when a water droplet passes over it. The wax helps prevent moisture loss to the air in the area of the plant that it covers. Additionally, it deflects UV rays, effectively serving as a sunscreen and protecting the plant from sunburn. Finally, it tends to make it more challenging for insects to walk on or lay their eggs on the surface.
Epicuticular Wax on Succulent Leaves
Plants produce epicuticular wax to help them survive in harsh environments. This wax aids succulents in preserving their reserves of moisture during dry spells. It aids with the plant’s ability to thrive in direct sunlight and shields it from insect predators. The epicuticular wax on the leaves of some plants, notably camellias, gives the leaves a glossy, highly reflective appearance. Most frequently, it takes the form of glaucous, a soft, powdery appearance in succulents. Numerous succulents are said to have “glaucous foliage Glaucous leaves in botany are ones that are “coated with an easily removed waxy bloom or coating that is greyish, bluish, or white in color. The succulents that are most frequently referred to as glaucous have leaves that are either bluish-grey or green and contain noticeable epicuticular wax.
Succulents with Glaucous Leaves
The leaves of many types of succulents feature a noticeable epicuticular wax. Possibly the most well-known is Ecechervia imbricata, the gorgeous blue rosette succulent shown above. Many, many more will also have this yellowish wax. People frequently seek treatment for the ailment because it is so noticeable on kalanchoe thyrsiflora, also known as the flapjacks or paddle plant, despite the fact that it should not be there. The stems and the underside of the leaves can accumulate a significant amount of the white, chalky dust. It shouldn’t be changed because this is not a problem and will continue to function as intended.
Don’t Wipe Away the Wax
Epicuticular wax should not be removed because it offers the plant so many advantages. Additionally, with succulents, it takes a very long time to recover. Where the wax has been removed, the plant usually has a patchy appearance that lasts for months. Instead, decide to appreciate the beauty that your plants’ natural protective coating brings. Doesn’t it give the color an almost ethereal quality? To clean off dust or to remove soil from your succulents, use a cheap paintbrush with soft bristles.
Recognizing Epicuticular WaxFarina
The key to identifying epicuticular wax is understanding how to distinguish it from a pathogen or infestation. This wax acts as a sunscreen, an insect repellent, and a barrier against water loss. It will obviously require an even “application, I assume? Actually, the phrase “Farina is an even dusting of an extremely fine powder, and is frequently and somewhat incorrectly used as a synonym for this kind of wax. You’ll notice how uniformly it covers the plant once you realize this sticky powder is intended to be there. It grows equally on every leaf of the plant, both on the top and bottom of the leaf. And if there are any areas where there is a heavier accumulation, it happens very gradually and deliberately looking. It’s crucial to detect this appearance because whiteflies and powdery mildew both lack it. Additionally, take attention of the state of the leaves because this wax safeguards the health of the plant. Epicuticular wax has the appearance of healthy, happy leaves with a very fine, very even dusting of powder covering the entire plant.
MaryCarol Chapman, a beautiful participant in my Facebook groups for succulent enthusiasts (you should join us! ), has a great tip for caring for succulents that I have adopted and is ideal for spotting problems with white gunk on your succulents. She advised me to add a jeweler’s loupe to my arsenal of succulent tools, so I did. I can get a pretty close look at anything white with the loupe, which helps me determine what materials are used to make it. If I notice tiny legs, I know it’s an insect and needs to be dealt with (see below). I get a chance to assess the fine texture and even application more thoroughly, which helps me differentiate between epicuticular wax and powdery mildew.
Recognizing Powdery Mildew on Succulents
Your plants could suffer from the fungal illness known as powdery mildew. It gradually drains the nutrients from the leaves, causing them to become yellow, wither, and fall off. Any kind of plant can be impacted by it, and it is very contagious. It seems to be white and rather fluffy or furry. It can resemble the useful epicuticular wax, as you can see in this image. But there are observable variations. Powdery mildew develops gradually and typically begins on one or two leaves, extensively covering those leaves while having little to no effect on nearby leaves. As a result, it is not at all disseminated throughout the plant. Close examination reveals that it is somewhat uneven rather than being as even and delicate as the wax.
It is crucial to take action if you suspect your plant may have powdery mildew. If you are unsure, take a leaf to a nearby nursery and have someone examine it for you to be sure that this is the issue. Or, seek confirmation from a seasoned gardener, or take a picture and post it to Facebook gardening sites. There are several safe and efficient natural treatments for powdery mildew. I heartily endorse this post as a fantastic place to start when looking for powdery mildew cures.
Recognizing Whiteflies on Your Succulents
Whiteflies are small insects that rob plants of moisture and nutrients while also leaving behind a sticky substance known as honeydew. An infestation of whiteflies causes leaves to quickly wither and distort. All of the insects and larva are white, and when they assemble, they can take on a fluffy or hairy appearance. When first laid, the eggs have a pale golden color; after they are ready to hatch, they turn brown. On the underside of the leaf as opposed to the top, whiteflies are typically more active. Additionally, they do not coat the leaf or plant with a homogeneous, even, superfine layer like epicuticular wax does. They produce sticky honeydew that attracts ants and can be used to identify whiteflies as the source of a problem.
The neighborhood nursery, gardening friend, and Facebook groups will be quite helpful if you are worried that you have whiteflies but want a second opinion. Click here to learn more about whiteflies and how to get rid of them.
Worm castings are my go-to solution for both resolving whitefly issues and avoiding them altogether. Worm castings, which are essentially worm manure, are a fantastic organic fertilizer for succulents because of their mineral-rich composition. Worm castings have a number of excellent properties, one of which is that they are a natural supply of the enzyme chitinase, which dissolves the exoskeleton of insects. When I plant a succulent, either in a pot or the ground, I mix dry worm castings into the soil. Because of this, the plant is able to absorb and distribute chitinase throughout its entire body. Whiteflies and other pests stay away from those plants because they can detect the chitinase there. When treating an insect infestation and fertilizing the plant at the same time, a worm casting tea can be administered topically as a foliar spray.