Sedum morganium “Burrito cuttings are shown here as they grow before being sold. The leaves reveal the difference.
Get ready! Even a light touch causes this plant’s leaves to fall off. Learn how to handle succulents without having to worry about the leaves falling off.
New leaves won’t sprout on the bare areas once the leaves have fallen off the stalks. I received this question from a reader, so I thought I’d share the answer in case you had the same query.
For this reason, I cut the stems of my Burro’s Tail plants at the tops of the bare spots—you can see me doing this in the video if you’re unsure.
Every two to three years, I prune my burro’s tail plants to refresh them and encourage top growth.
You can top your new plant with worm castings and compost every spring to improve the soil once the Burro’s Tail cuttings have taken root and have been transferred.
Right here, you can read about how I feed my composting worms. Every spring, I lightly apply worm compost and then top it with compost to most of my indoor and outdoor container plants.
Burro’s Tails can reach a length of six when fully grown, which can take up to six years. Mine have only extended to a maximum of approximately 4.
After pruning, the burro’s tail. There are still a few stems that are naked, but I will ultimately remove them. At the top, new growth is beginning, and this cutting will promote it.
Burro’s Tail Cuttings
The Burro’s Tail succulent can also be propagated by using stem cuttings. The leaves that have fallen off can also be used to grow new plants.
You don’t need to wait as long for them to heal off as you would with cuttings. Instead, you can immediately plant them in the mixture. Until the leaves take root, spray the mixture to keep it moist. Baby plants will soon start to grow where the leaves were once affixed to the stalks.
There will soon be more hanging succulents. Here are the cuttings of “String of Pearls” and “String of Bananas” that I planted in one of my hanging pots after I finished filming this movie.
A Burro’s Tails succulent is very easy to propagate, and you may easily create more plants.
Why is the tail on my donkey shrivelling up?
The burro’s tail is a common succulent houseplant with eye-catching, teardrop-shaped, plump, meaty leaves. They develop along a vine in a row, and the vine looks lovely trailing over the edge of a hanging basket.
This plant may grow up to four feet long in six years and is indigenous to Mexico and Honduras. It produces summer-blooming white, yellow, or red blooms.
The burro’s tail is a low-maintenance plant that isn’t particularly prone to issues, but when its leaves begin to wilt, that can be a concern.
If this occurs, it typically indicates that the plant is under stress due to a change in its environment, thus you must identify the precise cause of the shrivelling in order to take the appropriate action to address the issue.
The most frequent reasons why burro’s tail leaves become shrivelled are soil that is excessively dense or has turned hydrophobic, underwatering, overwatering, excessive sunshine, and these conditions.
Why is my succulent donkey tail dying?
The family of stonecrops includes a significant number of species under the genus Sedum (Crassulaceae). A tropical species of sedum known as Sedum morganianum has long been cultivated as an ornamental because of its unusual, evergreen foliage. Due to the pendulous stems’ similarity to an animal’s tail, it goes by numerous common names, including burro’s tail, donkey’s tail (also a traditional name for the hardy perennial Euphorbia myrsinites), horse’s tail, and lamb’s tail. This long-lived sensitive trailing sub-shrub, which is native to southern Mexico and Honduras, is often grown as a houseplant in most of North America because it is hardy only when it is consistently above freezing. It received the 1993 Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.
The trailing stalks and succulent, blue-green leaves of this delicate perennial plant have a silvery bloom that rubs off when touched. The stems begin by growing straight before slanting downward and lengthening to four feet; due to the water content of the leaves, they can become rather heavy. The lance-shaped, overlapping, smooth-textured leaves develop in a densely whorled, nearly swirling pattern to completely encircle the stem, giving it a braided-like look. The pointy ends of the short, thick, cylindrical leaves swell to become very plump when plants are adequately watered and will shrivel when conditions are too dry. Because the plant’s stems and leaves are fragile, it should be placed in an area where it won’t be accidentally knocked over or harmed by passing humans or animals. Branch formation may occur where the stems are lacking in leaves. ‘Burrito’ or ‘Baby Burro Tail’ has lime-green leaves that are smaller, more rounded, and on shorter stems—it is uncertain if this refers to a different species, a cultivar, or a hybrid.
Although burro’s tail planted indoors rarely blooms, in the summer terminal clusters of 1-6 flowers on slender pedicels may have tiny but stunning pink to crimson blossoms. The tiny, star-shaped flowers feature plump, lighter pink sepals and vivid yellow stamens. They produce a lot of nectar and entice flies and bees with it. Before the plants may flower, they must be fully grown, with stems that are at least 25 cm long. Moving plants outside in the summer and keeping them at milder temperatures (50°F and 60°F as opposed to room temperature) during the winter may promote flowering.
Burro’s tail grows best in containers where the stems can hang down vertically because of its trailing branches. The pendant stems can be displayed in hanging baskets, urns, or sizable pots on pedestals. Put enough material in a head-shaped container to resemble dreadlocks. Individual plants can live for decades under ideal conditions inside. They can be utilised as temporary hanging plants outdoors in wind-sheltered areas. There are multiple hanging baskets of these plants at Lotusland in Santa Barbara, California, each with a shade cover that gives them the appearance of a gigantic jellyfish.
The optimal conditions for burro’s tail growth are bright light to full sun; in low light, the internodes will be longer and the stems’ leaves won’t be as tightly packed. If the light is too strong, the leaves lose their blue-green colour and turn yellowish. It thrives in a growing medium with good drainage, like cactus mix or standard potting soil that has been liberally supplemented with perlite, pumice, baked clay granules, or even fine pea gravel (but not sand, which tends to fill the soil pores and hinder rather than enhance drainage). Only once or twice during the growing season, apply mild fertiliser. Repot in the spring, but only after the plant has completely filled the container. After repotting, wait about a week before watering again, and then water sparingly until the plant is established again. Mealybugs rarely infest the stems of this plant, which has minimal insect problems overall; root rot brought on by excessive watering is the most frequent problem. Wilting or mushy leaves could be a sign of excessive soil moisture.
Being a succulent, it cannot handle being overwatered, especially during the winter when it is dormant. Between waterings, the soil should be given a chance to almost dry out. During the growing season, water often, but less frequently in the fall and only enough during the winter to keep the potting media from drying up entirely. Indoor plants could only require watering once a month, depending on the environment.
In the Midwest, burro’s tail is typically grown as a year-round houseplant, but if the weather consistently rises above 40°F, the plants can be transferred outside for the growing season. They must gradually get used to the light circumstances outside to avoid being sunburned. In the fall, bring the plants back inside when it’s expected that the nightly low would be 40°F. Cuttings of stems or leaves can be used to easily propagate Sedum morganianum. Individual leaves cut from the stem will produce roots, but it will take more time to regenerate a plant of significant size than from stem cuttings. To root stem cuttings, push the stem ends down into the rooting media after removing the leaves from the lower end of the cut stem and letting it dry for a day or two. In order to keep long or heavy stem cuttings in place while the roots grow enough, they may need to be pinned or staked. Plants may not begin to root successfully for several months. You can also grow this species from seeds or divisions.
Why is the tail of my donkey losing leaves?
You should try to determine the cause of any leaf loss on your burro’s tail. Is it just because the plant is delicate, or may there be something more serious going on?
A plant that can withstand drought is burro’s tail. Additionally, throughout the winter, when it is dormant, it requires no water at all. Check to see if the soil is completely dry before you water your plant.
You are overwatering the plant and causing its leaves to drop off if you water a burro’s tail when the soil is still damp from the last watering. Reduce watering and check that the draining hole is not clogged to fix the problem.
Root rot is another issue that requires caution. Overwatering frequently results in root rot because too much moisture encourages the growth of dangerous bacteria that cause rot in the plant’s roots and leaves.
After you water the soil, see if it takes too long to dry. The soil is not draining adequately, therefore this indicates. You need to dig a little and manually inspect the roots to be certain.
The burro’s tail has root rot if the roots are turning brown. You must remove the plant and carefully trim away all of the decaying components in order to save the plant.
Allow the roots to dry over a few days so that calluses can develop over them. Repot the plant in a suitable, quick-draining soil mixture to finish.
Does donkey tail enjoy the sun’s rays?
Like many succulents, donkey’s tail does best in a place with a lot of warm sunshine, though it will tolerate some shade. If you decide to keep your plant indoors, choose a sunny windowsill with enough of everyday light.
How much light is required for a donkey tail?
Burro’s tail adores the brilliant shade or moderate sun. This alluring succulent adores the four hours of bright light. Remember that it will get burned by the hot sun; offer it early sunshine instead for optimal growth.
Keep these resilient plants indoors where they will receive enough sunlight, such as on a balcony, in a sunny window, or on a patio. In the spring, shine bright light indoors on your colourful donkey’s tail to encourage blossoming. To produce the ideal circumstances for the succulent, you do need to make sure the pot has sufficient drainage.
How frequently should I water the tail of my burro?
- The burro’s tail can withstand drought (those pillow leaves retain water). Limit your watering to once per month. (Be sure to fully soak the soil, then wait until the topsoil is completely dry before watering again.)
- Use potting soil made for cacti and a pot with a drainage hole for your container plant.
- Burro’s tail is a perennial in USDA growth zones 9 to 11, and as it is a native of eastern Mexico and Honduras, it anticipates warm weather all year long in the garden.
Burro’s tail was found by American botanist Eric Walther in Mexico in the 1930s, and he brought it back to California where it has been grown ever since.
How is a donkey tail plant maintained indoors?
The care of a burro’s tail is perfect for the frequent traveller or the gardener with a weak green thumb. When growing the tail of the burro, water carefully. Make sure the plant is uniformly and fairly moist. Overwatering a succulent can make its stems rot and perhaps kill it.
A mixed cactus and succulent container can be adorned with burro’s tail, and it works great in a hanging basket. It creates a distinctive ground cover and thrives in rockery crevices. Consider putting the bushy stems in a bed of colourful perennials or assorted seasonal flowers. It works well in a xeriscape garden and is the ideal choice for large-leaved plants.
What can you do to revive a succulent?
Yes, I am aware that it seems illogical to remove extra water from the soil, but bear with me. This is the justification. Too much water has already put the succulent under stress, and exposure to sunlight makes matters worse. Direct sunlight is a big no because most succulents require brilliant indirect light.
Place the succulent that has been overwatered somewhere dry and bright, but out of direct sunshine.
2. Permit the roots to breathe.
Cut off any brown or black roots as they are already rotting. Dig the succulent out of the ground and remove any excess soil that has become stuck to the roots. Place the plant on a mesh or other strainer until the roots have had two to three days to air dry. Replant the roots in the pot once they have dried completely.
Remove the entire root system and any puckered, spotty, black, or brown stems if the roots are entirely rotted. The succulent stem can be buried in the ground for propagation.
Keep the overwatered succulent on a mesh screen or other strainer until the roots have had two to three days to air dry.
3. Modify the ground
You might not need to entirely alter your succulent if it is already rooted in homemade or commercial succulent soil. Algae (green living matter) typically grows on soil that is too wet. If so, it is your responsibility to remove all of the top soil from the area around your plants and replace it with new succulent soil.
How can a donkey tail that is too wet be saved?
The more quickly you act, the more likely you are to be able to save your plant. The likelihood that a plant may succumb to rot increases with the amount of overwatering. As you can see from the examples above, there are times when a plant is simply too damaged to be saved.
The plant is essentially drowning from too much water and needs to dry out as quickly as possible if it is exhibiting early signs of overwatering, such as mushy, soft, and pale bottom leaves.
Steps on How To Save an Overwatered Succulent:
- It is preferable to remove the plant from its current location and thoroughly clean the roots of any moist soil.
- For at least three days and up to a week, let the plant to completely dry out.
- The plant should be placed somewhere dry and sunny, but out of direct sunlight to prevent burning of the leaves and roots.
- Replant in an appropriate, fast-draining potting mix once it has dried up; do not water right away. Before watering again, wait about a week and take care not to overwater.
You might get away with leaving the plant alone and not repotting it if you believe it is already in the proper potting mix but you were just excessively watering your plants.
Prior to watering again, wait at least a week and feel the top inch of the soil for moisture. You can water it once more if it feels dry. Your plant needs a new pot if the soil is still moist because the soil it is now in is not drying out quickly enough.
Will The Leaves Grow Back?
Yes. As long as the plant is not decaying, even if you lose a lot of leaves due to overwatering, it will eventually recover. You may soon see fresh growth or tiny leaves along the stems if you allow it time to dry out.
Additionally, you’ll see new growth coming from the plant’s sides, top, or even bottom. When you start to see new growth, your plant is typically out of danger and has fully healed.
Steps on How to Save a Rotting Succulent From Overwatering:
- Check the plant to see how bad the rot is. You may be able to salvage some of the plant if the rot is not too bad.
- Keep any leaf that seems to be reusable. As many leaves as you can preserve for propagation. Leaf propagation can be challenging, so you’ll need as much leaf as you can obtain to give some of them a fighting chance. Ensure you collect the leaf in its entirety, including the base. A broken leaf won’t survive.
- Allow the leaves to dry for a few days by placing them somewhere dry and out of the sun.
- When the leaves are completely dry, either lay them flat on the soil or bury the ends in well-draining potting mix. You can dip the leaves in rooting hormone as an optional step. I tend to skip over this step, but other people prefer to add rooting hormones to boost success rates and expedite the propagation process.
- Avoid direct sunshine and water the soil every few days or if it seems dry. Await the development of new plants and their roots.
Other than leaves, you can also save parts of the stem
- Examine the stem, including the roots, and remove any rotten spots. Save any stem pieces that are still green or healthy. When you cut the stem, you will be able to tell if it is viable or not. If the stem’s inside reveals green, fragile sections that aren’t brown or black, they may have a chance of surviving and can be multiplied to start a new plant.
- Saved stems should be stored in a dry, shaded area. All cuts should calluses and seal after a few days to a week of drying. Dip the stems in rooting hormone, if desired. I tend to skip over this step, but other people prefer to add rooting hormones to boost success rates and expedite the propagation process.
- When the stems are dry, make a well-draining potting mix and place them in it.
- Every couple of days or whenever the soil gets dry, mist. To prevent sun damage, stay out of the sun until your roots are completely established.
You can see that the stem still has a lot of green, healthy sections after removing the decaying portion, indicating that it can be preserved. I placed this stem in soil to root and grow after letting it dry out for a few days.
Overwatered echeveria that has withered. I kept a few of the leaves for future growth.