Cold fronts occasionally pass through, dropping temperatures toward freezing, even in regions with moderate winters. Most African succulent plants are vulnerable to cold. For instance, the University of Florida IFAS Extension notes that aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) grows in USDA zones 9 through 11 while jade plant (Crassula argentea) grows in the frost-free regions of USDA zones 10 and 11. First to be harmed are delicate new growth or the thinnest plant portions, which typically seem fragile and discolored.
Even if your succulents freeze, all is not lost. If you suspect your succulent has frozen, Gardening Know How advises waiting a few weeks before evaluating and treating frost damage. The frozen plant should be recoverable if there is any fresh growth. Use a sharp knife dipped in rubbing alcohol to chop away the damaged areas of the plant, eliminating any tissue that appears squishy or has brown in it. This will help the plant to recover. Between cuts, clean the knife. Place container plants out of the direct light in a dry location. Resuming routine plant care after the wounds have healed
What transpires when succulents freeze?
“Frost tender” succulents may experience variable degrees of damage, depending on how long the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F). A sensitive plant’s cells expand, burst, and transform its leaves to mush when liquid inside them freezes. In a “light frost,” only the tips of the leaves may be harmed (“frost burn”). A “hard frost” is characterized by sustained temperatures below freezing, which can cause entire plants to die. Typically, succulents do not recover from roots.
Ones that are among the most fragile succulents include crassulas, aeoniums, euphorbias, and kalanchoes. Some succulents, in particular, have an inbuilt antifreeze that allows them to endure temperatures considerably below 32 degrees Fahrenheit—in fact, below zero.
Are your outdoor succulents at risk over the winter? Depending on where you reside, Please refer to “Cold Weather Care for Outdoor Succulents, By Region.”
Your area is frost-free (lucky you!) if…
This soft-leaved agave in my garden is the canary in the mineshaft when it comes to cold. Many succulents may survive a brief cold (less than an hour), but Agave attenuata’s leaf tips immediately reveal damage.
Although ugly, this damage rarely results in death. See how each leaf’s healthy green portion is? Cut each leaf to a point using scissors to remove the tissue-paper-like frozen tips. The harm won’t be very evident when you’re finished. Those shorter, clipped leaves will be buried by new growth during the summer. (Note: Such damage is comparable to scorching brought on by excessive sun and heat, which is common of desert conditions, and by wildfire, which, believe it or not, does occur.)
What about a succulent or agave that only suffers damage from frost on the tips of its leaves? Don’t even try trimming them. In a few months, it will shed those oldest leaves nevertheless.
areas with sporadic, light frosts (like Southern California’s interior):
If there is a “frost advisory” for your area, keep an eye on the weather forecast, and before it gets dark, go outdoors and cover your sensitive succulents. After midnight, frost is more common, and temperatures increase colder as dawn approaches. Warm air is lighter than cold air, which travels down hills and gathers in low areas. Succulents in swales are therefore more vulnerable than those on top of berms. You may have heard that Christmas lights slightly increase the temperature. Yes, if they are the traditional variety. LEDs in current use don’t produce heat. You should be concerned about succulents that are exposed to the elements and have nothing over them. I occasionally lean over a succulent and look up. It becomes draped if there aren’t any tree limbs or eaves directly above.
I reside at 1,500 feet in the foothills NE of San Diego (Zone 9b). And yes, after seeing the weather forecast on the late-night news, I have been outside at 11 p.m. in my pajamas and slippers, freezing while I place blankets on delicate plants while my husband holds a flashlight. I may leave the plants covered if several nights of frost are expected; otherwise, I take the sheets off the next morning. I fasten them with clothes pins and rocks to make sure they won’t blow off. AVOID using plastic. The plants are unable to breathe because of it.
In my yard, jades and other delicate succulents are covered in frost cloth. WATCH THE VIDEO
Why cold damages some succulents and not others
The origin of a certain plant type affects it greatly. Most succulents are native to dry, hot areas where they can store water in their leaves to survive drought. The ones that don’t freeze, however, are from dry, cold climates. See my essay, Showy Succulents for Snowy Climates, in the Wall Street Journal. The “hardies” include:
several species and cultivars of sempervivums (hens-and-chicks, above); some cactus, yuccas, and agaves (such as Agave utahensis, A. montana, and A. parryi); and lewisias from the Pacific Northwest.
How may frost-damaged succulents be saved?
If you see any new growth at the base, the succulent may be able to be revived. Cut off the damaged areas of the frostbitten succulent with a knife after disinfecting it with alcohol. Bacteria could contaminate your plant if the blade is not cleaned.
Succulents can they recover from freezing?
The first step is to relocate them somewhere warm to prevent further exposure to the subzero temperatures.
Next, let them to dry out for many days or even weeks, depending on how badly they were frostbitten. All of the mushy frostbite lesions should be allowed to dry up and scab over. Your succulent will be operating in emergency mode as it attempts to stop additional harm.
Your succulent is more likely to rot and die if you water it too soon after it develops frostbite.
If you can, clip off the frostbitten parts once they have dried out. This may require you to remove significant portions of the plant. Sometimes, you might only be trimming the ends.
For instance, the ends of a fragile Aloe or Agave plant may become dry. In that instance, you may simply trim the leaf so that it resembles a typical Agave or Aloe leaf while also removing the dried-out and crispy portions.
The center of your succulent plant is typically unaffected by frostbite, which typically affects the plant’s outer edges first. In a way, this is the “best case situation” that you would hope for.
It’s likely that the succulent won’t be able to be salvaged if the frostbite extends into the stem. Your succulent is more likely to survive if you cut off and clean out any damaged areas of the plant.
Wait another two to three days before watering once you’ve clipped off the damaged areas. You should allow enough time for these wounds to callus over and heal.
Then, when everything is once more dry, you can begin watering your succulent. To promote healthy root growth, make sure you’re employing the soak and dry technique I recommend.
It’s crucial to understand that the damaged sections of your succulents you’ve plucked won’t regrow. However, if everything goes as planned, the new growth on your succulent should be strong and appear natural.
The succulent will need some time to recover its stunning appearance, but as with most succulent gardening, your persistence will be rewarded. As your succulent grows over the coming weeks and months, it will begin to resemble its former, joyful self once more.
Make sure the succulent is covered from cold, as well as from intense heat or sunlight, when you put it back outside (or in the spot it was growing). You need to gradually reintroduce your succulent to the growing circumstances it was accustomed to before it was in a protected area.
Also problematic is shocking your succulent with abrupt changes in temperature or light.
Do succulents recover from a frost?
I can’t seem to find a definitive answer on whether or not to trim the leaves/tips of my two Blue Agave succulents, which have been harmed by the cold winter we had in Texas this past March, writes Gwen Pickering in Frisco, Texas. They appear to be flourishing, although some of the lower leaves are dark green. When I do my investigation for an answer, I read both “yes cut” and “no don’t cut” the leaves. If you can, please give advice. I want to say thank you.
Gwen’s agaves recovered beautifully!
All that’s left of the damage is what you can see on the bottom leaves. The old is being masked by new growth. Essentially, Gwen only needs to trim the damaged leaves to a point to remove the unsightly tips.
What was the big Texas freeze?
According to Wikipedia, “in February 2021, the state of Texas experienced a significant power crisis that was brought on by three severe winter storms sweeping across the USA on February 1011, 1317, and 1520; a massive electricity generation failure in the state of Texas; and consequent shortages of water, food, and heat.”
By March 2021, I had already received a number of letters from Texans requesting advice on how to save their succulent plants. I suggested:
Your succulents’ roots may still be healthy enough for them to survive even though the top growth is severely damaged. For a number of months, you won’t be able to be sure. Spring, which is the majority of succulents’ primary growing season, can be very effective. As soon as there is no longer any risk of frost, take away any damp, collapsed leaves. By May or June, if you haven’t noticed any new growth, it’s probably time to pick up the plants and start again.
Here is my original entry for this page, which primarily discusses in-ground gardens in coastal and southern California (like my own). — Debra
Will succulents recover from frost damage?
It varies. Here are pictures of frost-tender succulents before and after temperatures plummeted to the mid-20s F:
The identical Euphorbia ammak ‘Variegata is shown here following a frost:
Zero chance of recovery. There was too much tissue injury. The Euphorbia tirucalli “Sticks on Fire” beyond it, though, is another story. Because only the top growth was frozen, there is tremendous prospect for a recovery. It shielded the healthy stems below, which were still intact.
This Portulacaria afra, sometimes known as elephant food, will be fine. Although the top growth was frozen, it wasn’t wise to trim it until all threat of frost had passed. It aids to safeguard the robust plant beneath.
If your plants—succulent or not—have experienced something similar, cut the dead top growth once all threat of frost has passed, and the plant will recover—albeit smaller, of course!
How about the aeonium that is frozen below? Basically hopeless Look instead at the Sedum ‘Angelina’ that surrounds it. It’s also a succulent, and it’s fine!
Why does frost not kill other succulents but destroy some? The origin of a certain plant type affects it greatly. Most succulents are native to dry, hot areas where they can store water in their leaves to survive drought. However, some come from arid, chilly regions. See the piece I wrote about this in the Wall Street Journal.
If Your Succulents DO Become Damaged
If it looks like collapsed leaves may decay, remove them since the plant’s health is at risk. In contrast, if they get dry, they will aid in shielding healthy tissue from upcoming frosts. After the weather warms up, leave them on and prune.
Trim tip-burned leaves of slender-leaved succulents (like agaves and aloes) to a point rather than cutting them straight across to maintain their symmetry. (See underneath.)
Just put it down to experience. Now that you are aware, you can find a safe place for that specific plant.
How to trim a frost-burned Agave attenuata
This agave’s leaf tips start to melt at 32 degrees, but otherwise the plant is alright. Here’s how to quickly make things appear good once more.
What does succulent cold damage resemble?
Most succulents commonly suffer frost damage in really cold weather. It often happens when ice crystals build inside of their tissue, harming their cells. When that occurs, you’ll start to see some signs of frost damage, like drooping leaves on your succulents, which will eventually turn brown or black and get crispy. In other words, your succulent plants are currently slowly dying.
There is still hope, nevertheless, if there are some remaining healthy leaves or even viable leaf fragments with frozen tips.
Treatment
Don’t prune immediately. Wait till it warms up outside or until the plant starts to produce new leaves. Once it is certain that there is new growth at the root, use clean, sharp scissors to carefully remove the afflicted areas. Using clean scissors will help stop bacteria from further hurting your plants.
Refuse to water. Plants that have just been pruned shouldn’t be watered right away. Your fragile succulents may experience shock if you water them too soon. Before watering the cuttings, wait until they are entirely calloused over. When they do, water your plant thoroughly once every two weeks.
- Avoid areas that receive direct sunlight. It should be sufficient to just set your succulents on a sunny windowsill. Depending on your climate zone, direct sunlight might still harm or burn you even though it is weaker in the winter. Your plants will be able to cure themselves with just a little bit of partial or filtered sunshine.
- Wait tolerantly. Usually, a few weeks after the plant has been trimmed, part of the leaves will die and drop off. Do not panic if you see the leaves beginning to wilt. Your succulent will eventually heal as new leaves begin to emerge from the center.
Precautionary measures
- Prevent pruning in the early or late fall. Pruning encourages the formation of new growths, such as leaves or offshoots, hence avoiding it helps prevent this. They would struggle to survive in the intense cold, so your succulent would have to work harder to attempt to develop as they were working to heal.
- Water the ground well. As wet soil maintains heat better than dry soil, doing this will assist warm the air close to the soil and save your plant’s roots.
- To protect them, cover them. To protect any delicate plants, you can simply wrap them in blankets or another warm material. Just remember to uncover them the following day when the temperature rises, as leaving them covered could lead them to wilt.
- Place a grow light near your succulents. A average grow light will be between 35 and 40 watts, which should be adequate to keep your plants healthy during the winter.
- Use a spray anti-perspirant. These sprays aid in preventing moisture loss in plants. The anti-transpirants offer a clear, flexible protective layer to stop moisture loss during winter’s typically crisp, dry winds. It won’t obstruct the osmosis, photosynthesis, or organic growth of your succulent. To keep moisture in the foliage of delicate plants, apply it there.
- If your plants must stay outside, group them in containers that are close to one another and place them in a protected spot that is easy to access, like your patio, so you can take care of them and keep them alive and healthy.