How To Remove Aphids From Succulents

When dealing with pests such succulent mealybugs, spray rubbing alcohol on the area, or use a cotton swab to remove aphids from cracks and crevices and from leaves.

Combine the following for a homemade insecticidal soap and rubbing alcohol spray:

  • Water in five cups
  • rubbing alcohol in two glasses
  • liquid soap, one tablespoon worth

Spray the water, insect-killing soap, and oil mixture as directed, shaking the components in the spray bottle before use.

When the plant is free of aphids, carefully wash it and wait a few days for it to dry completely before repotting it in a new potting mix.


Test a small area first before spraying anything on your succulents or cactus.

Any of these components may cause harm to and disrupt this coating.

Hose them down.

If you notice a small number of aphids on your plants, a forceful stream of water from the hose will effectively eradicate the infestation. Water the plant well, paying special attention to the underside of each leaf. It can take up to two weeks to successfully eradicate all aphids, but repeat this procedure every few days until you do.

Spray leaves with homemade aphid spray.

waging conflict with more aphids? Create a homemade insecticidal soap for low-toxicity pest control that will kill aphids and desiccate their fragile bodies without harming your plants. Simply combine a couple of teaspoons of liquid dish soap with a quart of water, and then mist or wipe the mixture on the plant’s leaves, stems, and buds. Don’t forget to completely spray the underside of the leaves as well because these pests like to hide there. For the following few weeks, repeat the procedure every two or three days until you no longer see aphids on the plant.

Use a systemic pesticide.

If your aphid infestation is severe and not controlled by insecticidal soap, you might need to use a systemic insecticide to eradicate them. Use a product that contains imidacloprid, which won’t affect pollinators like bees, hummingbirds, or butterflies but will kill aphids when consumed. All of the following chemicals are effective against aphids and may help eliminate them from plants in your garden:

How can I naturally get rid of aphids?


  • Aphids can be eliminated by hand by dousing them in water or dumping them into a pail of soapy water.
  • Use organic or natural sprays to control the situation, such as a solution of soap and water, neem oil, or essential oils.
  • Utilize organic predators such as birds, green lacewings, and ladybugs.

How do you remove insects from succulents?

Scale insects can be dabbed with rubbing alcohol using a cotton swab or paintbrush, just as mealy bugs. They will eventually perish as a result of their shells dissolving. To wash your plants, you might also purchase Planet Natural’s insect-killing Safer Soap. By destroying their shells, it will eliminate scale insects.

What do aphids on succulents look like?

A kind of aphid feeds on almost all plant species. The life cycle of an aphid infestation begins with winged adults. To lay their eggs, the adults land on a succulent leaf. When the eggs hatch, the young feed on leaves until they are fully developed before taking flight to begin the cycle again.

The bodies of aphids are shaped like pears and they can be any colour, including yellow, green, white, black, brown, and even pink. These little insects barely reach a length of one-fourth of an inch, but they have a big impact on the devastation of your garden.

The succulent leaves are devoured by the aphids, who then create honeydew as a sugary byproduct. The honeydew draws ants that eat the waste, and it promotes the development of black, sooty mould.

Aphids are thankfully not that tough to get rid of. Succulents with aphid problems can be treated at home, and you’ll see your plants recover quickly.

What causes an infestation of aphids?

Did you know that most gardens have some aphids present? These common insects don’t do much damage to healthy plants, and helpful insects like ladybugs aid in their population reduction. When things go awry, typically when plants are stressed by dryness, bad soil, or overpopulation, aphids become more of a nuisance. Aphids may also reproduce incredibly quickly in the correct garden circumstances, building up a large, voracious colony in a matter of days that can practically suffocate your plants. Knowing when to act and having the appropriate strategies in your back pocket to get them under control are the keys to dealing with these tiny but deadly pests.

Always remember, prevention is better than cure

Preventing plant pests and diseases in the first place is the best way to deal with them. The best course of action is to constantly avoid their infection or infestation.

Aphid prevention tips are as follows:

Maintain the plant’s health by giving it the right nutrients, water, and pruning as required. Aphids and other bugs can tell when a plant is weak and struggling.

Continual observation to spot and address any nutrient deficiency issues as soon as they arise. When plants are growing quickly, check your plants for aphids at least twice a week to detect infestations early and knock, hose off, or trim them away.

Limit the application of fertiliser with a nitrogen content, especially during the vegetative phase of growth.

Use push and pull strategy

One of the most efficient and all-natural ways to get rid of aphids permanently is the push and pull method. In order to attract and trap corn stalk borers, napier grass is planted alongside corn in a similar manner to how corn stalk borers are controlled.

Companion planting of crops from various families is therefore crucial.

Plant the allium family’s members, such as onion and garlic, alongside your primary crop. Aphids are easily repelled and driven away by plants in the Allium family.

Conversely, grow plants in the brassica family, including kale and collards, to draw and remove pests. Aphids don’t actually do much damage to these crops, if anything.

As an alternative, place a dahlia plant close to a crop that is vulnerable. Dahlias are good for luring these insects.

This tactic relies on the presumption that, given the option, aphids will select their preferred plant over all others.

Use yellow stick traps

The majority of pests exhibit phototaxis, and typical bugs like aphids prefer the colour yellow. Pests simply can’t help themselves when faced with this yellow sticky trap and keep flying in its direction.

Sticky traps are also used as a monitoring device to gauge the extent of an infestation. Low infestation is indicated by a few caught aphids, and vice versa.

Here is my top suggestion.

Yellow sticky trap with two sides by Kensizer for usage both inside and outside.

Introduce the traps early in the season, before the pest emerges, for the best results. The accumulation of pests can be stopped by using Yellow Sticky Traps to capture the winged adults before they get to the plants.

Use natural enemies otherwise known as biological control of aphids

There are three powerful predators that can naturally eradicate aphids. The Green Lace Wing, Lady Bug, and Hoverflies all have a penchant for eating a lot of aphids each day.

You can introduce these helpful insects to your garden in one of two ways:

  • By growing plants that draw beneficial insects, you can entice them to visit your garden. For instance, “lemon gem marigold,” “lavender globe lily,” and “fern leaf yarrow.”
  • You can also purposefully introduce them by purchasing live beneficial insects from trustworthy stores in your area.

Create biodiversity in your garden

By fostering a favourable habitat, nature will balance the proportion of destructive and beneficial creatures.

Similar to biological control, but with a larger and more inclusive focus on creating biodiversity. It involves using companion planting, natural enemies, and eco-friendly gardening techniques.

Having bird baths, trees, flowers, and bird feeders, for instance, will ensure that you have a large number of birds nearby, which in turn feed on insects like aphids.

Rub them away

You can manually rub the aphids off the plant in the early stages while the infestation is still minimal. They won’t withstand the impact because they are soft-bodied insects.

To prevent needless injury, always put on your garden gloves first.

This is especially effective for young plants that are susceptible to other pest management techniques like high pressure washing (hosing).

Apply water with high pressure (hosing)

Hosing is one of the most widely used bug-control strategies. Use a watering hose with a controlled nozzle and a jet of high pressure water to wash the aphids off.

Use a bug blaster nozzle in places where the water pressure is too low, such as very dense bushes.

This strategy is highly effective for two reasons:

  • By tearing the bugs apart, high pressure water destroys the bugs.
  • The sheer amount of water causes those who aren’t impacted to drown.

Use organic insecticide

This method is the best for getting rid of aphids indoors, while it also works well outside. This should only be your last option.

Even though you’ll be utilising organic or natural insecticides, use caution and responsibility because they could kill beneficial insects as well.

You can create your own remedy by combining water and Castile soap. Spray soapy water on the aphids using a spray bottle to kill them. or choose commercial substitutes.

Do aphids harm succulent plants?

Succulents are frequently attacked by pests like mealybugs and aphids. They consume the plant’s sap, weakening it and making it more prone to disease. The majority of the time, little infestations are curable, and the plants can recover. However, a significant infestation is exceedingly challenging to eradicate since these bugs lay eggs and grow quickly. They are difficult to identify and treat because they lurk on the undersides of the plant. Insecticide resistance is another possibility. The plant could perish if untreated.

What causes succulents to get aphids?

When in flower, succulents like the echeveria plant are a major attraction for aphids. On the undersides of a variety of plant leaves, these small pests are frequently observed in clusters. There, aphids conceal themselves to avoid being eaten by predators or wiped off by rain.

What eliminates aphids the best?

Aphid bodies that have been mummified have been parasitized. The circular hole in the upper left mummy is where the parasitic wasp (centre) has come out.

Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that pierce stems, leaves, and other fragile plant components with their long, thin mouthparts in order to extract fluids. Aphid species that occasionally feed on plants can be found on almost every plant. Although it might be challenging to tell one aphid species from another, most aphid species can be managed similarly.


Depending on the species and the plants they feed on, aphids can be green, yellow, brown, red, or black and have soft, pear-shaped bodies with long legs and antennae. Some species secrete a waxy white or grey material across their body surface, giving them the appearance of being waxy or fuzzy. The hind end of the majority of species’ bodies protrude a pair of cornicles, which are tube-like structures. Aphids can be distinguished from all other insects by the presence of cornicles.

Aphid adults typically lack wings, however most species can also be found with wings, especially during periods of high population or in the spring and fall. When the quality of the food source declines, the pest has a method to spread to new plants thanks to its ability to create winged offspring.

Aphids are sometimes encountered alone, but they often feed in large groups on stems or leaves. Most aphids don’t move quickly when startled, unlike leafhoppers, plant bugs, and some other insects that may be mistaken for them.


Aphids produce a lot of offspring each year. In California’s temperate environment, the majority of aphids reproduce asexually for the majority of the year, with mature females giving birth to live offspring—often as many as 12 per day—without mating. Nymphs are the name for young aphids. Before they reach adulthood, they moult, shedding their skin around four times. No pupal stage exists. Some species develop sexual forms that pair and lay eggs in the fall or winter, giving them a more resilient stage to withstand bad weather and the lack of leaves on deciduous plants. Sometimes aphids lay these eggs on a different host, usually a perennial plant, in order to survive the winter.

Many types of aphids can mature from a newborn nymph to a reproducing adult in seven to eight days when the climate is warm. Aphid populations can grow quite quickly since each adult can produce up to 80 young in just one week.


Aphids that feed on leaves in small to moderate numbers rarely cause harm to trees or gardens. Aphids can also produce significant amounts of honeydew, a sticky fluid that frequently turns black with the development of a fungus called sooty mould. However, high populations of aphids can cause leaves to turn yellow and stunt shoots. A poison that some aphid species inject into plants results in curled leaves, which further stunts growth. Gall formations are caused by a few species.

On some ornamental and vegetable plants, aphids can spread viruses from one plant to another. Crops like bok choy, squash, cucumber, pumpkin, melon, bean, potato, lettuce, beet, and chard are frequently contaminated with viruses spread by aphids. The viruses stunt plant growth by curling, yellowing, or mottling leaves. Infection occurs even when aphid populations are very low; it just takes a few minutes for the aphid to spread the virus, whereas it takes a significantly longer time to kill the aphid with an insecticide. Losses can be substantial, but they are difficult to prevent by eliminating aphids.

Some aphid species prey on plant components besides leaves and shoots. The spring and summer attacks of the soil-dwelling lettuce root aphid cause lettuce plants to wilt and occasionally perish. This species frequently relocates to poplar trees in the fall, where it spends the winter in the egg stage and emerges in the spring with leaf galls. The woolly apple aphid feeds on the woody parts of apple roots and limbs, frequently close to pruning wounds, and if the roots are infected for a number of years, it can lead to overall tree degeneration. Carrots with severe crown and root aphid infestations may have weakened tops that break off after harvest.