How To Propagate Thimble Cactus

With the aid of its offsets, the thin-skinned cactus can be easily propagated.

  • Remove these offsets with care, and allow them to dry on a paper towel for a few days.
  • NOTE: Online retailers sell bare root plants.
  • Wait until a callus develops on the cut area.
  • Use a fresh pot and a cactus potting soil mixture to plant the new plant there.
  • Place the fresh plant in a warm area.
  • Repotting the plant in a standard container shouldn’t be done until new roots start to appear.

Cacti from cuttings can be propagated?

Probably the most frequent and straightforward method of propagation is stem cuttings. Stem cuttings are an effective method for multiplying many cacti. Stem cuttings from an existing plant are removed, then left to calluse and dry out. Eventually, the cuttings will begin to take root from the cut end and grow into a new plant.

Some cacti that are frequently multiplied via stem cuttings include:

  • Prickly pears or opuntia
  • Collapsed cactus
  • Globular and pincushion cacti

How should a thimble cactus be watered?

These thimble cactus care guidelines will help you take good care of your plant.

You can grow a thimble cactus indoors if your climate isn’t warm enough to cultivate them outside. Use a container filled with cactus and succulent-specific potting soil or a mixture of standard potting soil and gritty sand.

Thimble cactus should be handled with care because the offshoots are brittle. Any branching, though, that lands on soil will take root. If you ever want to propagate a new cactus, keep this in mind.

The thin-skinned cactus can thrive in bright light or some light shade. If you grow thimble cactus in direct sunshine, take care not to move it abruptly into a shaded area as it could scorch. Adjust the setting gradually.

Thinly water the thimble cactus during the summer. Only water the cactus during the winter if it appears wilting. Always wait a full day before watering the soil again. In damp soil, the cactus is prone to rot extremely quickly.

Tip the thimble cactus once a year, in the middle of April. Use a water-soluble fertilizer that has been diluted by half.

Can you grow cacti in water?

It’s time to get your cutting ready for planting in a pot once it has dried! Cactus propagation can potentially be done in water, just like with other houseplants, but it’s not a very usual procedure because they thrive in soil.

Your brand-new cutting will require excellent drainage to survive, much like other cacti (unless it’s a jungle cactus like the Christmas cactus). The roots of cacti have not developed to become used to extended wet periods. They enjoy a cool splash, but the soil shouldn’t be prone to being wet or humid afterward; instead, it should immediately dry out again.

It’s not too difficult to spot an excellent cactus soil because it will be grippy and contain little to no potting soil at all. You can either purchase a prepared cactus soil combination or create your own by mixing 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part orchid bark (not too gritty) for your cutting.

As far as planters go, as long as they have proper drainage, you should be set to go. Standard plastic nursery containers are excellent, but some cactus growers like to use clay planters to provide even more drainage. Water can really evaporate through the walls of this substance since it is porous.

Advice: Visit the article on planting succulents indoors for further details on how to grow succulents like cacti.

How are finger cacti propagated?

By separate offsets, Lady Finger Cactus multiplication is most frequently accomplished. A single stem will shortly be surrounded by smaller offsets since this cactus species grows in clumps. Then, these can be divided and grown in various containers.

The majority of offsets can be detached from the mother plant by gently pulling them apart. Just be sure to keep the spines away from your hands. Alternatively, you can cut them away with a clean, sharp knife. Just make sure to cut the offset as close to the mother plant as you can.

It is advised to let the offsets dry out after separation for a few days so that any sores can calluse. Your offsets will have the best chance of surviving if you do this to help prevent illness.

Your new Lady Fingers can be planted in their new container once they have calloused. Then, you can treat them the same way you would have the mother plant.

Can you plant a portion of cactus that has been chopped off?

A loved cactus plant might quickly lose a portion due to overly active kids, scavenging animals, an accidental bump, or an unplanned incident. You need not worry if it occurs to you because you are not required to discard the chopped piece.

Even if the main plant can still survive if a portion of its stem is lost, it may seem wasteful to toss the broken piece and ignore the rest.

Can you then cut a chunk off of a cactus and plant it? Yes is the clear-cut response. Cuttings can be used to grow a sizable number of cacti species. Hedgehog, prickly pear, and branching columnar cacti like the night-blooming cereus are a few of the common cactus species that are typically reproduced via cuttings.

Don’t discard the broken piece if your cactus accidently breaks off a portion of it. Instead, replant it from seed and let it grow.

Where should cacti be chopped to spread?

If you want indoor plants that practically care for themselves, succulents and cactus plants are the ideal choice.

As detailed here, stem or leaf cuttings can be used to readily propagate the majority of cacti and succulents. Always remove entire segments from cacti with segmented stems (such as Christmas cacti and prickly pears), as cuttings don’t divide segments in half.

Aloes, haworthias, and agaves are clump-forming succulents that can be divided by simply removing the plant from its container and slicing the rootball. Numerous Mammillaria and Echinopsis cacti can be separated, or individual heads can be removed and used as cuttings.

In our No Fuss video guide, Kevin Smith of Gardeners’ World Magazine demonstrates how to use cactus plants to make a visually appealing display. Kevin discusses the benefits of using salad tongs to handle cacti, the best compost to use, and how to make attractive mulch.

Step 1

Select a healthy stem that is at least 10 cm long and use snips to cleanly cut it off. When handling spiky cacti, use tongs. Remove entire leaves from plants without stems by hand; don’t chop them off. Until the cut surfaces have healed over, leave cuttings on a window sill.

Step 3

After heavily watering, set the pot on a warm ledge that’s preferable out of the sun. Cuttings of succulents or cacti shouldn’t be put in propagators or covered with plastic bags.

Step 4

Watch the cutting and moisten the compost when it feels dry. The majority of cactus and succulent cuttings take a month or less to root, although new growth could take longer.

Pest Control

Your Thimble Cactus is susceptible to insect assault, just like any other plant. Spider mites, fungus gnats, and scale insects are typical pests.

Because they are so small and may hide inside the plant, these pests can be challenging to eradicate.

Use of a diluted rubbing alcohol solution is one way to get rid of pests on your plant.

Bacteria or Fungal Disease

Look for rot around the plant’s base, which shows up as black spots, on your plant.

Take your Thimble Cactus out of the container and cut off any rotting offsets and roots if you notice this. Replant in a fresh container with dry soil.

Bleaching or losing its green color

The most likely cause of your Thimble Cactus’ orange or yellow color change is either too much or too little direct sunlight.

Ascertain that your plant receives 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both too much and too little are undesirable.

Puckering flesh

This is an indicator of inadequate water supply. When a cactus is full of flesh and has a springy texture, it is healthy.

If they do not receive enough, they draw water from their reserves, which causes the plant to seem wrinkled or puckered.

A thimble cactus can grow to what size?

It generates tiny, spherical offsets that cluster around the parent plant.

The body of the plant has a broad look and is typically a green/blue tint. It is densely coated with white, silky hair.

The little globe of this cactus is heavily covered with radial spines, giving it the appearance of a powder puff.

The thimble cactus is a simple plant to grow in a window sill with plenty of sunlight for individuals who are knowledgeable about growing cactus and succulents, and they will undoubtedly add this cactus plant to their wishlist of plants they want to cultivate.

A mature Mammillaria cactus grows slowly and typically reaches heights of 3 to 5 inches and diameters of 3 to 4 inches.

Thimble Cactus Flowers

Mammillaria is a charming, small cactus with a cylindrical body. It produces tiny yellow or white flowers, which are sometimes found in a halo or circular shape, or what some people refer to as the “flower crown effect.”

The Mammillaria cactus, in contrast to most cacti, has axle-shaped tubercles from which the flowers protrude.

Light Conditions & Temperature

Despite the fact that the majority of Mammillaria species like bright light, some cannot endure more than four hours in the sun.

This tiny cactus thrives in conditions between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (2127 C) and is dormant throughout the winter.

Keep brightly colored potted cactus plants as indoor plants during the winter on a windowsill.

The plant will produce flowers when the temperature falls to between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (1518 C).

For optimal results, move the plant outside in the summer as that is when it blooms.

Watering and Feeding

Suspend water over the winter when the plant is dormant. Mist does, however, occasionally.

Don’t leave the plant submerged in water or expose it to prolonged wetness.

During the growing seasons, fertilize the plant with a cactus fertilizer blend for feeding.

Best Soil Type for Mammillaria Cactus

The plant needs cactus soil that is porous, and it thrives in a rich, quick-draining blend of cactus soil with a pH range of 6.1 to 6.5.

For the greatest results, some plant varieties will need a grittier succulent or cactus potting soil.

Grooming and Maintenance

These compact groups, which are covered with intertwined white spines, gradually expand into broad mats.

Give thimble cactus plants plenty of sun on a windowsill that is shielded from the weather because they are not cold-tolerant.

How do you re-root a cactus fragment?

Large desert cactus, such as the prickly pear (Opuntia spp. ), can be rooted either indoors or outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11. Usually, smaller desert plants are rooted in flower pots. One-third to one-half of the pad or stem should be buried, bottom end down, in the potting media after making a small hole in it. Place in a warm environment with filtered light that is bright. Wait to water the plant until the roots start to form.

What is the time required for cactus cuttings to root?

Even for novice gardeners, cactus species are among the simplest plants to root at home. The method is effective throughout the year, although cactus cuttings potted in late summer to early autumn develop the quickest roots and healthiest plants. Cactus cuttings can root easily, but they must be carefully prepared beforehand and potted in sterile rooting medium to prevent them from wilting and decomposing before they take root. Most cactus cuttings that have been potted usually take four to six weeks to root and are prepared for transfer one month afterwards.

Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?

Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.

Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.

According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.

I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.

According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.

The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.

As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.

The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.

The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.

I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.

I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).

Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.

I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.

The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.

I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.

The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.

Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.

Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.


Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?

A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:

acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.

OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.

Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.

Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.

To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.

Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.

Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.

Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)

Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.

occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.

Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunshine to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunshine and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.

Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.

Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.

My opinions on the spread of water:

I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.

The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.

Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.

According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.