How To Propagate Sunburst Succulent

Aeonium Cuttings can be used to propagate sunbursts.

It’s simple to grow Aeonium Sunburst from a cutting, but there are a few tips to remember to make your effort successful.

  • For optimum results, remove a healthy, non-flowering Aeonium off the parent plant by making a straight cut through the stem down the center.
  • Before planting, give the wound some time to heal to reduce the likelihood of infection.
  • Put the clipping in a potting mix that drains well.
  • Aeoniums should have a light, airy planting medium because they require a lot of oxygen for strong root growth.
  • To prevent scorching or wilting from lack of sun exposure, keep the plant in an area that receives bright, indirect sunshine. Doing so can seriously harm the plant’s foliage.

Always use sharp garden shears rather than a clean knife when propagating a succulent like Aeonium’ Sunburst’ from cuttings.

By doing this, you can avoid unintentionally slicing through the stem’s important veins, which would prevent it from subsequently developing roots or leaves.

How is Aeonium Sunburst spread?

The stem cuttings are an easy way to multiply the aeonium plant. It is a monocarpic succulent, as was already indicated, and it passes away after flowering.

It is preferable to start taking cuttings and getting ready for fresh growth as soon as the plant blooms.

  • Use a clean pair of scissors or a knife to cut the cutting off the plant.
  • Make sure the stems are cut away from the main cluster of the plant.
  • Over the following few days, let the wound callous.
  • Plant the cuttings in a soil that drains well later.
  • Until the plant takes root, give it plenty of water frequently.

How are Sunburst succulents cared for?

Award-winning “Sunburst,” one of the prettiest Aeoniums, is an evergreen succulent with huge variegated rosettes of fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves that measure 6-8 in. wide (15-20 cm). The leaves are held on long, naked stems and have a lovely pattern of creamy yellow and green stripes. When exposed to sunlight, the tips of the leaves turn coppery red. On mature plants, this Aeonium produces pale yellow racemes of tiny, star-shaped flowers in the spring, adding amazing drama and intrigue to the garden or containers.

  • Winner of the esteemed Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit.
  • grows up to be 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) tall and 24 inches broad (60 cm).
  • Sandy, dry to medium moisture, well-drained soils with direct sunlight are ideal for easy growth. accepts low soils and mild shade. Despite being drought-tolerant, Aeoniums need more frequent watering than other succulents since their roots are relatively shallow and tiny.
  • Aeoniums can be dormant in the summer and don’t need water unless it’s extremely dry out. When in growth, hydrate moderately and feed with a balanced liquid diet every two to three weeks. Just enough water should be provided over the winter to prevent the foliage from shriveling.
  • Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the rosette only blooms once before dying. Not all rosettes bloom at the same time, and it can take years for this to happen.
  • Excellent for Mediterranean gardens, succulent gardens, or rock gardens.
  • Ideal for use in pots where gorgeous floral arrangements can be made.
  • Salt tolerant and deer resistant.
  • essentially free of diseases and pests.
  • Rosettes can be propagated by rooting cuttings that are stored at 64°F (18°C) with very little moisture.

What is killing my Sunburst succulent, and why?

Aeoniums might initially seem confusing, but I’ve learned a lot about how to take care of them over the years. In fact, due to how simple and dependable they have been, they have become one of my go-to succulents.

There is generally an explanation and a simple fix for your aeoniums if they are exhibiting indications of stress like drooping or falling leaves.

Let’s look at some of the most likely causes of falling leaves and wilting aeoniums.

Aeoniums Dropping their LeavesIs this Normal?

Old leaves of aeoniums fall off starting at the bottom. Aeoniums naturally shed their old leaves as they grow new ones. More so than other succulent plants, aeoniums frequently drop or shed their old leaves. These leaves frequently appear dried out, wilted, and occasionally droopy.

On the underside of the plant, the leaves may appear droopy and some will be dried up and brown if they don’t fall off naturally. You may easily remove these leaves by pulling them out or by leaving them alone and waiting for them to fall off on their own.

It’s typically not a problem and your aeoniums are acting normally if you observe leaves falling off of them.

Aeoniums also drop or shed their leaves as they go through dormancy and when stressed, in addition to doing so as new leaves emerge. Continue reading to learn more.

Aeoniums Shedding All of their Leaves and DroopingAre they Dying?

Your aeoniums are probably just going through dormancy when they have lost the majority of their leaves and appear to be dying. Aeoniums develop actively during the fall, winter, and spring seasons, unlike other succulents.

When it’s hot and dry outside or throughout the summer, they go dormant, especially if they’re left out in the sun.

Aeoniums lose a lot of their bottom leaves during this time, giving the impression that there aren’t many left on the plant. The rosettes also begin to collapse, giving the impression that the plant is drooping and the stems are barren. Although the plant may appear to be dying and to be in poor health, this is very normal behavior for aeoniums, especially those that are exposed to intense heat and sunlight during the summer.

The aeoniums go into hibernation at this time, and little activity or growth is anticipated. This is also the time to avoid making any major changes to the plant and to let it alone. For example, you wouldn’t want to take stem cuttings from a plant that is dormant.

Alternatively, you do not need to start fertilizing the plant heavily in a panic. Simply let the plant to rest throughout this period. Only because it is so hot and dry where I am and I don’t want my plants to fully dry out do I continue to water them as usual during dormancy.

Some individuals choose not to water their aeoniums when they are dormant, which is acceptable if you live in a humid environment. Dormancy often occurs once annually, throughout the summer. Aeonium plants, however, can go into hibernation at any time if they are subjected to extremely hot and dry conditions, depending on where you live and where they are located.

For instance, you might be experiencing a heatwave during an especially warm October. Even if it’s not the summer, the aeoniums will exhibit the same dormant habit.

Dormancy can occur depending on the weather at the time and not only the season. So the aeoniums can also bypass dormancy entirely if the summer is moderate with little to no strong heat.

Aeoniums Will Shed Leaves when Under Stress

Aeoniums also lose their leaves when stressed, like during a severe heatwave or when submerged. An underwatered aeonium will shed its bottom leaves to save energy and water; if underwatering continues, the aeonium will keep shedding leaves and the rosettes will close.

They will behave and appear as though they are going through dormancy.

The plant does this to conserve the water and energy it needs to survive. Aeoniums seem to require a bit more water than other succulents, in my opinion. The leaves will curl, dry out, and fall off if they don’t get enough water.

Aeoniums enjoy getting lots of water. I don’t mist my aeoniums; instead, I give them a decent drink every 10 to 14 days, and more frequently in the summer. Once more, my area is terribly dry. If you reside in a humid location, you won’t need to water as frequently.

If you’ve been underwatering your aeoniums and you’ve started to notice these symptoms, just raise the watering, and they’ll almost instantly perk back up. So, if you were watering once a month, raise it to once every two to three weeks and observe the results.

Aeonium Leaves Turn Brown and Fall Off from Sunburn

Aeoniums favor an area that is well-lit and sunny. They can tolerate both full sun and little shade. Even aeoniums that have grown accustomed to full sun might occasionally get burnt. Sun-damaged leaves will appear dried out, burnt, and brown.

The amount of sun exposure and its intensity will determine how much sun damage or sunburn there is. Sunburn might affect just a few leaves or the whole rosette or plant. Sunburned patches on the leaves are irreversible and persistent.

The sun-damaged leaves can be removed if you so choose, or you can wait until they ultimately fall off. There isn’t much you can do to fix a burnt plant or rosette if it already has that condition. Simply wait until the plant produces new growth and expels the burnt areas.

You can relocate your plant to a more shady area if you see that it is getting burnt. Sunburned spots on aeoniums are harmless and will eventually fall off, while not being particularly attractive.

Aeoniums are MonocrapicThey Die After Flowering

The majority of aeonium plants are monocarpic and perish after flowering. The middle of the rosettes on aeoniums releases white or yellow flowers. The plant expires when the flowers have finished flowering. The mother plant often generates a large number of offspring before it flowers. Aeoniums typically take a number of years to flower and then pass away. If the mother plant flowers and dies, there would still be plenty of offspring for the plants to survive on. As long as the surrounding rosettes and ramifications do not blossom, they will keep expanding.

What Could be Eating my Aeoniums?

Even though aeoniums are among the hardiest succulents I am aware of, pests and bugs still affect succulent plants. Your suspicion may be correct if you suspect that insects are an issue when it comes to devouring your aeoniums. In reality, last year’s garden bugs really hurt my aeoniums.

Take a closer look if you start to notice active ants surrounding your aeoniums. Ants may appear innocent, but if you notice a lot of them on your plant, it’s usually a sign that something is wrong and that you are dealing with an infestation of other pests. These pests are incredibly easy to overlook since they are so little.

If you notice ants around your aeoniums, there are probably other insect infestations nearby as well. Because they introduce these pests to your plants and guard them like livestock, ants are to blame. I experienced that with my aeoniums. The good news is that despite everything they’ve been through, they appear to be flourishing well and have shown that they are tough, durable plants.

Common Pests that can Bug your Aeoniums:

Ants Ants are not pests in and of themselves, but if you notice them all over your aeonium, you should examine more closely because this is a sure sign that other pests like mealybugs and aphids are also present on your plant. This is so that ants can raise them and use them as food.

Ants adore the honeydew and other sugary substances that mealybugs and aphids exude. These pests are shielded by ants, who can also move them from one plant to another.

Awful Bugs

These are among the most prevalent pests of succulents, and aeoniums are especially vulnerable to them. They are little and simple to overlook. They create a waxy or mealy white substance that gives them their name.

The white cottony stuff you notice on your plants is a warning indication that mealybugs are present. Most likely, you’ll see this white fluffy stuff before you see any bugs. These insects produce honeydew or another sugary secretion that can encourage the formation of mold and increase the likelihood of bacterial and fungal diseases.

Mealybugs are sluggish moving insects that are simple to identify and get rid of once you know what to look for. They are typically visible on the leaves’ undersides and between the plant’s joints. They are quickly disseminated from one plant to another.

Aphids are little insects with fatty, teardrop-shaped bodies, also known as greenflies or plant lice. Although they come in a variety of colors, green and black are the most prevalent. They can be seen at the ends of stems feeding on leaves or flowers.

They also produce a large amount of honeydew, a sugary white substance. This sweet material may promote the development of black sooty mold. Aphids feed on the plant’s tissues, resulting in misshaped leaves and limited growth of the plant.

Because they are so little and can hide behind the leaves, these pests are incredibly simple to overlook. To avoid these little insects and pests from hiding and settling on your plant, it is a good idea to periodically inspect your plant and remove any old leaves from the plant, the pot, or the ground. And you should act right away as soon as you notice ants surrounding your aeoniums.

Please click on the following articles to learn more about pest infestations on aeoniums and how to treat them:

Can a succulent be rooted from a cutting?

Succulents that are fully established don’t require daily watering, but leaves and cuttings do. Having said that, you should avoid giving them too much water because doing so will turn them orangey-brown and eventually kill them.

When working with leaves, place them on top of the soil while making sure that their ends don’t actually touch it. Water the leaves whenever the soil becomes dry. To soak the soil’s top, I use a spray bottle.

The cut end of the leaf should be inserted into the soil, according to some experts, but the majority of the leaves I attempted to plant in this manner either perished or just developed roots without sprouting new plants.

Cuttings must be buried in the soil, unlike leaves. They only require to be planted and watered for them to begin to develop roots because they are already virtually fully formed succulents!

Similar to leaves, cuttings require watering if you see the soil is becoming dry. Within a few weeks after you’ve gotten your watering schedule down, your cuttings will begin to produce new roots and leaves.

Can Aeonium be grown from leaves?

Cuttings of offsets can be used to quickly propagate Aeonium Arboreum. The first few weeks of spring are ideal for propagation. Summer dormancy at the Aeonium Arboreum makes summer months a challenging time for propagation.

After cutting an offset or a branch, place it in a shaded, dry area for about 24 hours before planting it either in the ground or in a pot filled with succulent potting soil. In 3–4 weeks, roots should start to show. See our post on how to take and plant succulent cuttings for further information on how to propagate cuttings.

It’s improbable that Aeonium Arboreum would develop a brand-new plant from a leaf. Some roots might emerge from the leaves, but they almost definitely won’t give rise to any new plants.

We have never succeeded in growing Aeonium plants from their leaves, and we don’t think any Aeonium species can do it.

However, arboreum can be grown from seed. To be really honest, it is not really worth the time and effort it will take to grow a plant that is a respectable size.

A well-rooted plant will begin to produce a lot of offsets in the fall. A modest cutting can develop into a healthy-sized “tree” with numerous easy-to-produce offsets in a few years.