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Stem Cuttings
The most common technique of plant multiplication for ornamental and woody shrubs is stem cuttings. This method works well for indoor plants as well. (Learn how to care for indoor plants here.)
Houseplants may often be multiplied pretty easily. Find a stem that is in good health and free of disease, insects, and flower buds. To increase the rooting area, make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle with a sharp, sterile knife. Cuttings should have at least two or three sets of leaves connected and should be between three and six inches long (shorter if the plant is small).
In order for new roots to grow, the bottom set of leaves must be removed. Next, immerse the end of the branch you just cut into rooting gel. This will encourage the establishment of new roots and aid in sealing the tissue of the wounded plant (optional). After that, add moist vermiculite, perlite, or any soilless potting mix to a small pot and add the cutting to it. Before putting the cutting into the growing media, make sure to make a little hole in it. The rooting solution won’t rub off of the stem in this manner.
Keep your new plants warm and in a bright, but not too bright, area. Additional humidity will also be advantageous for many cuttings. Put the pots in a transparent plastic bag to promote moisture and produce the impression of a miniature greenhouse. Avoid letting the pots’ covering of plastic touch the cuttings. Cuttings can also be covered with containers like mayonnaise jars, milk cartons, and plastic soda bottles.
Replant the cuttings in another container with damp but not wet potting soil once the roots have formed—this could take a few days or a few months. (Lightly tug on the plants to see if roots have grown or not. They are not prepared if they emerge immediately. (Repot if you encounter any resistance.)
Until the young plants are fully established, pay close attention to how much moisture and light they receive. To prevent fungus from spreading to healthy plants, get rid of dropping leaves and infected plants from the area as soon as you see them.
Softwood stem cuttings are extracted from young, unwooded branches of bushes (see Propagate Your Shrubs from Softwood Cuttings). The word “softwood” refers to the stage of development on a deciduous woody plant that is neither completely mature (red) nor completely young (green) (woody). It lies in the middle of the two. (Attempt to bend the branch. It is ready to use if it snaps readily. It is too immature and will probably decay before rooted if it is very flexible and only bends. If there is absolutely no elasticity, the plant is too old and will root very slowly.)
Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?
Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.
Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.
According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.
I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.
According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.
The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.
As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.
The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.
The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.
I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.
I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).
Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.
I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.
The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.
I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.
The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.
Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.
Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.
Update:
Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?
A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:
acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.
OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.
Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.
Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.
To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.
Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.
Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.
Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)
Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.
occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.
Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunshine to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunshine and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.
Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.
Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.
My opinions on the spread of water:
I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.
The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.
Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.
According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.
About
You’ve come to the correct location if, like me, you enjoy succulents. This website is a repository for the succulent-growing knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years and am still learning. Although I am by no means an expert on succulents and cacti, this website was created as a result of years of hard work, love, and many mistakes and learning opportunities.
Can I grow things in a bottle of water?
When you’re on the road, someone offers you some cuttings to bring back? Consider using a resource that you most likely already have on hand instead of searching for a plastic bag and a piece of damp paper towel to wrap around the base of the stem to keep it moist (the traditional method of transporting cuttings, but rather difficult to do when you’re in a garden setting): your water bottle!
If it is already full or nearly full, pour out some water until only the cut’s end is submerged—a depth of 3 to 5 cm will do. If you haven’t already, take the cutting from the plant by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger if it’s softwood; a penknife may be useful for a woody cutting. Yes, a clean cut is preferred, but don’t worry just yet; you can always give the cutting a more even cut after you reach home.
Put the cutting in the bottle after that. The leaves may need to be slightly compressed or squashed to fit into a bottle with a short neck, but this won’t harm the cutting in the long run. You only need to screw the water bottle’s cap on at this point, and you’re ready to go, though you might need to buy another bottle of water for yourself.
A wide-necked water bottle (like the one in the picture) is undoubtedly more practical because it will be simpler to remove the cutting once you reach home. Even a bottle with a tight neck, like a water bottle from a store, will work in a pinch because you can always cut it open with scissors or a sharp knife once you get home. Additionally, read Rooting Cuttings Step by Step if you’ve never taken a cutting before.
Do not root such cuttings in a dry environment; instead, wrap them with a clear plastic bag to maintain the humidity they are accustomed to in your water bottle.
How long a cutting can be kept in a sealed bottle, most likely without much light!
prior to it beginning to rot? Usually at least two weeks, if not more.