What kind of cuttings you can take from your succulent will depend on its genus and species. For instance, cuttings or leaves can be used to reproduce the majority of delicate Sedums and some Echeverias. Nevertheless, I utilize leaves for each.
Simply twist a leaf off the stem gently to remove it for propagation. Make certain that the draw is clean and leaves nothing on the stem. In fact, it’s okay to remove a small portion of the stem as well.
Make sure you get all the way down to the stem because every time I’ve broken off a leaf before the stem, it has always died. As you take the leaf off, it helps to have a clear view of the leaf’s base.
It’s a really cheap method to begin a collection of new plants, plus it’s a lot of fun to grow succulents from seed to baby plant to plant!
How to take a cutting for propagation
On the other side, you’ll need sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a cut (I use these and adore them!). Just above a leaf on the stalk, cut off a bit of the succulent.
The succulent’s top can be removed, or you can remove a fresh branch. Both will function!
How are succulents grown from cuttings?
When the light is not directly overhead, bring back outdoor plants to the garden. Create a shallow depression large enough for spreading roots by working the soil until it is crumbly.
Place your plant carefully inside of it, then add a layer of soil about an inch thick to gently cover the roots. To secure, lightly tamp. After a day, give the plant’s surrounding soil a gentle misting of water.
Cutting
With the cutting method, all you have to do is cut off a portion of a leaf or a stem, let it dry, and in no time at all, you’ll have roots and shoots. To keep it completely dry is the trick.
These are two approaches:
Beheading
A plant that has become tall and spindly or whose lanky, bare limbs hang downward like a pendant can benefit from this treatment.
Simply trim off the plant’s head, leaving approximately an inch of stem still attached. Dry it, let it to develop roots, then plant.
A healthy beheaded plant’s remaining stem should produce new leaves in a tight cluster, strengthening and improving the plant’s appearance.
As said, plant heads and leaves used as cuttings need to dry out and develop roots before planting.
It’s easy, really! This is how:
Can cuttings from succulents be rooted?
What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.
Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.
Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.
Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.
Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.
Can you put succulent cuttings directly into the ground?
Aeoniums can grow enormous and get “weary,” and the best course of action is to remove them and transplant some cuttings. Make sure the offcuts from pruning succulents like aeoniums are long enough to allow them to stand upright when replanted.
- Starting with the tips, trim the stem, leaving at least 15–20 centimeters of stem.
- After removing the parent plant, set the cuttings aside. These plants have relatively shallow roots, making it simple to pull them out of the ground.
- About 20 cm of a trench should be dug, into which the cuttings should be placed and then backfilled to support them.
- In the summer, the cuttings can be planted straight in the ground. For about a week, don’t water the cuttings to let the base dry up. Before planting them during the cooler months, let them sit out of the ground for a week.
- The cuttings will begin to take root in about a month, and then the tops of the cuttings will begin to grow.
Leaf cuttings can be used to multiply Pachyveria. By removing a lower leaf, you can tell if the plant will grow from leaf cuttings. It might be able to produce new plants if it comes off without damaging anything. The leaf won’t grow if it breaks, creating a “fleshy cut.”
- Prepare a tray with a combination of succulent and cactus.
- Starting at the base and working outward, carefully remove the leaves while holding the rosette by the stem. You may also plant this rosette as a cutting, so leave a few leaves on it.
- Make sure there is enough of airflow around the leaves as you arrange them on top of the soil. Make sure the dish-side up is towards the bud (where the leaf joined the stem), which should be left above the soil.
- The bud end will begin to develop a small rosette cluster in two to three weeks. As the roots will grow from this end, make sure to maintain it close to the ground.
- The buds can be removed from the tray and placed in a container or planted directly into the ground after they are big enough to pluck out (and have many leaves).
Can you replace a succulent after cutting off the stem?
I make a lot of movies and posts about succulents because I have a lot of them in my yard. They are perennial gifts, so to speak. You can simply cut them to acquire more.
Because the vast majority of succulents spread in the same manner, I wanted to write one post that you could refer to whenever I write about a particular succulent. These are the two incredibly simple methods.
Let me demonstrate how to grow succulents:
I usually divide succulents using stem cuttings. Ensure the sharpness and cleanliness of your pruners. Simply trim the stems to the desired length, remove the bottom third of the leaves, and then wait 2 weeks to 4 months before planting them to heal off (the cut end of the stem will callus over).
I either plant them straight in the ground or in a pot with planting mix for succulents and cacti. I use one that is made nearby; it’s also good. Succulents require a loose mixture so that the water can drain completely and prevent rot.
I rarely use individual leaf cuttings to propagate succulents, but it’s still simple. Lay the leaf on top of the mixture after removing it from the stem, making sure to remove the entire leaf all the way to the stem. Off the cut end, there will be a new plantlet.
I suppose I could propagate succulents in my sleep because I do it so frequently! Although many succulents make excellent houseplants, mine all grow outside. If you have just one or two of these bizarre plants, you can easily grow more using these simple methods.
Aloe Vera must be multiplied by division, which involves removing the pups from the mother plant.
How can you root succulents the quickest?
So, you may be wondering how to quickly propagate succulents. I can relate to both the joy and frustration of watching a new plant develop.
Since I’ve been growing succulents for a few years, allow me to give you some advice on how to quickly propagate your succulents as well as some alternative techniques you can try.
Stem cuttings are the simplest and quickest method of propagating succulents. If the plant is a fresh cutting from the mother plant, it will already have a strong foundation from which to build its new root system. Another instance is when you cut off the succulent’s top portion because it has been stretched out significantly (etiolation), this stem will likewise give rise to numerous new plantlings (pups). Due to its existing root system, the plant will also have a great possibility of producing more offset and growing quickly.
Always check that the stem cuttings are a respectable size for the plant’s typical size.
According to my experience, I always want to make sure that the succulent has a lot of nodes where the leaves attach to the stem and a lot of leaves in its stem. Once the succulent is put in soil, these stem nodes will form roots, and the leaves will serve as the succulent’s water source until its root system matures.
How long does it take a cutting of a succulent to take root?
Succulents can be propagated in water, but doing so goes against the ideal growing circumstances for these plants. Start your leaves and cuttings in shallow planting trays or tiny containers packed with potting soil for the best outcomes. Succulents can be grown in individual containers without having to transplant them right away.
Follow these easy steps once planting day arrives and your leaf or stem cuttings have callused:
1. Get your planting trays or containers ready. Use a coarse, quick-draining potting mix made for succulents and cacti and gently moisten it. 2 Make planting holes with a little stick.
2. Add a little RootBoost Rooting Hormone to a serving dish. When pouring, only utilize what you’ll need and discard the remainder.
3. Cut one piece at a time. Wet the cutting stem or leaf base before dipping it into the dish of rooting hormone. Completely round the stem or leaf base. Get rid of any extra rooting powder by shaking.
4. Carefully tuck leaves or stems into the rooting powder so it doesn’t fall out. The potting mix should then be carefully pressed around the cuttings.
- Insert the base at an angle just below the soil line to accommodate leaves. Put curled leaves in an upwards-curving position. (On that side, the new tiny plant grows.)
- Insert the bottom half of the stem into the potting mix so that it covers at least two bare nodes when taking stem cuttings.
5. Wait until roots start to form before watering. Once the dirt has dried, give it a good watering before repeating the process. The majority of succulent leaf and stem cuttings should root in two to three weeks, while rooting times might vary greatly. The fastest-rooting cuttings are those from stem tips.
6. After the roots have taken hold, transplant your new succulents from trays to tiny containers. Use the same kind of potting soil as you did previously. Be careful not to disrupt young, delicate roots.
What succulent is the most straightforward to grow?
Having a collection of succulents might be most gratifying when you propagate them. You can increase the number of a popular plant in your yard through propagation, swap plants with friends, and even preserve a dying plant. Here are our top ten picks for beginner-friendly succulents.
Sedum rubrotinctum (Pork and Beans or Jelly Beans)
Bright crimson in direct sunlight; green in shadow. This resilient Sedum quickly fills in container gardens and rock gardens. Remove the leaves and place yourself on a damp, well-draining surface.
Echeveria ‘Lola’
one of the most productive Echeveria leaf plants. Both newcomers and seasoned collectors adore the flawlessly round rosette and the pearly pink leaves. They germinate swiftly and successfully spread through leaves in large numbers.
Sedum nussbaumerianum
difficult in dry, warm areas with little water. Easy to grow from leaf or tip cuttings. Before planting in soil, wait for a scab to develop (this takes about a week). This species’ colors and leaf shapes vary widely.
Sempervivum arachnoideum (Cobweb Houseleek)
Fast-growing and yields more offsets than you could possibly use! Plant cuttings directly in damp soil after cutting propagation, and you’ll observe roots forming in approximately a week.
Graptopetalum paraguayense (Ghost Plant)
A stunning hanging rosette succulent that may change color depending on the environment to orange, bronze, pink, and purple. It is quite simple to spread by leaves; you might even notice one growing on its own.
Echeveria colorata
Initially slow, but well worth the wait. Echeveria colorata starts out by producing lovely leaf sprouts with scarlet tips. Before removing the mother leaf from the new plant, wait until it has totally died.
Echeveria lilacina (Ghost Echeveria)
We frequently see the succulent Echeveria lilacina multiplying by itself. By planting leaves gently in soil with their roots down and leaf up, you can prevent the fast curling that occurs with leaves.