How To Propagate Echeveria Succulents

From cuttings, Jerry claims there are three techniques to quickly grow tons of these well-liked, rosette-forming succulents.

  • Rosettes: When they get leggy, cut off the complete rosette at the base, trim the extra stem, and replant the rosette.
  • Stalks: When you take the rosette off, keep the stems. You may put them flat on top of some potting soil, and each node will produce a plant.
  • Leaves, but take leaf cuttings to grow the most plants in the quickest length of time. Place the leaves on top of the potting soil after gently removing them from the rosette. These start growing brand-new plants from the leaf base after drying out for about a week.

Step One

Pick healthy leafy plants. When you begin with a healthy mother plant and healthy leaves, your chances of success are higher. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves. Select leaves that are evenly colored and free of any stains, blemishes, or markings. Use only leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Remove the leaves off the stem gently.

Step Two

Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached. To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth.

The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.

Step Three

When employing this method of propagation, it is better to use more than one leaf because you might not have a 100 percent success rate. Pick a few wholesome leaves, then spread them out to dry. Await the healing of the leaf wounds. This can take anything from a day or two to a week or so. At the leaf’s base, where it separated from the stem, a callus or scab will develop. Throughout this procedure, the leaves must be kept in a dry, warm, and shaded area. Before putting the leaves in potting soil, they must be dry and calloused; otherwise, they would rot and perish.

Step Four

Sprinkle rooting hormone on the leaves (optional). This is not required. In none of my propagations have I ever applied a rooting hormone. The calloused leaf end should be dipped into the rooting hormone before being promptly inserted into a suitable potting mix.

To secure the leaf, compact the earth around it. The use of a rooting hormone is optional, so you are free to omit this step if you like. Simply insert the calloused end of the leaf, unaided by a rooting hormone, directly into the potting mix.

Instead of burying the leaves in the soil, spread them out on a bed of suitable potting soil. This is the approach I took. To make room for fresh plant growth, leave some gap between the leaves.

Step Five

Avoid the sun’s direct rays. Keep the leaf cuttings out of direct sunlight as you wait for them to take root. You can put them away from direct sunlight in a shaded spot. Leaf cuttings exposed to full sun or direct sunlight will shrivel and burn.

Step Six

Spray the leaves with water from a bottle. If your area has a dry environment, mist the soil every few days or perhaps every day. Mist the soil every few days or until it feels dry if you reside in an area with a more humid environment and the soil remains wet.

Roots will begin to spread. You may start to notice tiny pink roots emerging from the wound after around four weeks. This might be simpler to see if you lay the leaves flat on the ground. If the cut end of the leaves is buried in the ground, you won’t be able to see the roots unless you dig them up.

To keep the emerging roots from drying out, you can cover them with a thin layer of soil. Keep misting the soil every few days or if it becomes dry.

A new plant with its own leaves eventually appears where the roots are growing after about four weeks or more. This may require a few weeks to several months. The leaf you used to spread the plant will naturally begin to wither.

You have the option of gently twisting the leaf off or letting it fall off naturally. Be careful not to harm the baby roots when removing the mother leaf. Every few days or when the earth is dry, you keep missing the young plants.

Step Seven

Embrace the new plant. It’s time to move the succulent into its own pot when the baby plant becomes bigger and the mother leaf starts to wilt. Gently remove the withered mother leaf from the new plant if it is still present.

Use a good potting mix to transplant the young plant into its own container. Perlite and cactus mix were used.

Step Eight

Keep the young plants out of direct sunshine. Because they are still young and fragile, the new plants cannot withstand full sun. To prevent scorching the young plant, place it in a shady or partially shaded spot away from direct sunshine.

Step Nine

Up until they form roots, succulent cuttings require a little bit more water than mature plants. Every few days or anytime the soil feels dry, you can lightly water or mist the soil. When the plant is more established, water it according to your usual succulent plant care regimen, allowing the soil to dry out in between.

These new baby plants might result from leaf cutting propagation in large quantities. From a single leaf, you can occasionally grow more than one plant.

Echeveria can it grow in water?

the following actions to increase your success:

  • Allow the cutting ends of succulents to callus. This process, which can take a few days to a week, keeps the cutting from absorbing too much moisture and decaying.
  • Use rainwater or distilled water. Use tap water only after letting it sit for 48 hours to allow the salts and contaminants to dissipate. Fluoride, which moves through the plant in the water and settles on leaf edges, is particularly hazardous to early cuttings. As a result, the leaf edges turn brown, and if you keep giving the plant fluoride water, the browning will spread.
  • Just below the plant’s stem, keep the water level. Allow the calloused cutting to hover slightly over the water without touching when you’re ready to root it. As a result, roots are stimulated and encouraged to grow. Be patient and wait a few weeks for a root system to develop.
  • Place there in an outdoor area with bright light or a grow lamp. Keep the project away from bright light.

What time of year should I cut Echeveria?

In the summer, yellow-tipped blooms on flower stalks start to appear. These delicate perennial plants are favored as low-maintenance indoor plants because of their thick, evergreen leaves.

Where to plant echeverias

Echeverias benefit from soil that drains well. Despite being called tender, they are actually quite tough. They can tolerate cold but can’t cope with wet and cold, so plants should be moved to a frost-free place over winter.

It is best to have a sandy, acidic soil that faces south. Echeverias can survive in tiny pots and even tiny holes in paving because they don’t require a lot of space for their roots.

How to plant echeverias

Digging in a lot of horticultural grit will help the soil drain better if you’re planting in a rich, water-retentive soil. Echeverias could be planted more easily in a container in a compost that has had a lot of grit added to it. Select a pot that is unglazed and has deep drainage holes in the bottom. Only if the earth is really dry should you water newly planted echeverias.

Propagating echeveria

Offsets produced by echeverias can be carefully removed and planted on. Additionally, by taking leaf cuttings in the spring or summer, new plants can be grown. Simply snip a leaf off, then throw the damaged portion in a pot of cutting compost. Wait for a new plant to emerge at the root of any cuttings you wish to take and place them in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill.

Echeveria: problem solving

When kept on the dry side, plants are trouble-free. However, if plants are grown as houseplants, mealy bugs may become an issue. These plant-sucking bugs show themselves on the foliage as tiny white dots. They resemble cotton wool to some extent.

If you find mealy bugs, keep the plant separate from other indoor plants. To get rid of the mealy bug, wipe the foliage; in severe situations, throw the plant away or use an insecticide.

How to look after echeverias

It’s crucial that plants don’t get too much water. They will swiftly perish if roots are allowed to develop in moist soil. Before watering again, let the soil dry completely after irrigation.

Pruning is not necessary for plants. Peel off damaged and fading foliage to remove it. Cut back stems of faded flowers.

Can Echeveria be grown again?

You can easily take out and transplant a leaf from a succulent like jade, sedum, or echeveria to create a new plant. Start by slowly twisting and removing a leaf from the succulent. Attempt to obtain the entire item, including the tiny knob at the stem’s attachment point. On the end that was attached to the plant, a perfect leaf will have a U-shaped shape.

To allow the ends of the leaves to dry out and scab over, place them on a paper towel for a few days. When ready, insert the very tip into a small soil mound.

Pro-Tip: When planting, make sure to use potting soil designed especially for succulents or cacti.

Put the new plant in a spot with dappled light. A few times every week, mist the leaves with water, or lightly water them at the soil line. It won’t take long for roots to start growing, then young plants.

When the original leaf dries up and the baby plant is at least half as tall, carefully remove it. If you’d like, you can also re-pot your succulent (in a cute DIY planter), but be careful not to too disrupt the roots.

What’s causing my Echeveria to grow so tall?

We adore cacti. They look very charming in any room of your house, are simple to care for, and are understanding to those of us who lack a green thumb. They can withstand extreme dryness and heat both indoors and out, making them adaptable. They work well both individually and together in a container garden. It would be difficult to find someone who doesn’t gush about how lovely and simple these tiny plants are to maintain indoors.

However, nobody warns you that your succulent might begin to alter shape. Here’s some information on why your succulent might be growing taller if you’ve seen it.

Why It’s Happening

Etiolation is the process through which a succulent begins to develop a longer stem and paler, less densely packed leaves. Etiolation is most frequently brought on by a plant not receiving enough sunlight, which results in a change in the plant’s development, shape, and color. Since indoor succulents are rarely exposed to direct sunlight for lengthy periods of time, this problem most frequently affects them, however it can affect any succulent.

How To Fix Succulent Stretching

There are strategies to control the growth of your lanky plant even when it is impossible to make it again compact. Start by attempting to add extra light to its regular routine. Your succulent won’t be able to grow much longer if you do this.

Pruning your plants is the best technique to try and “recorrect” the growth. Take a sharp pair of shears, and make a cut directly above a row of leaves. Depending on the kind of succulent you own, the precise location will vary. You should leave the plant with a sufficient number of strong leaves so that it can continue to photosynthesize and survive. By doing this, you may get rid of a lot of the undesired, leggy growth without damaging the current plant. In addition, you can use the clippings to produce a fresh, healthy plant. After trimming your succulent, you should allow the cut end to completely dry in a well-lit place so that a callus can develop over the exposed end. Usually, this takes two to three days. The clipping can then be placed straight in the ground to produce roots over time.

For these new clippings and the freshly cut succulent, you can apply what you’ve learned about etiolation and how to prevent it in order to avoid repeating the same growth pattern.

How big can Echeveria cacti grow?

The echeveria (Echeveria spp.) is a slow-growing, drought-resistant succulent that hardly ever reaches heights or diameters greater than one foot. Echeverias, which are native to Central America, Mexico, and northwestern South America and are members of the Crassulaceae family, flourish in desert environments with full light.

The diverse echeveria cultivars typically come in blue-gray or gray-green hues. Echeveria plants have waxy leaves that can also be green or purple, and some cultivate amazing patterns. With clusters of bell-shaped flowers on tall stems, the majority of types bloom in the summer.

Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?

Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.

Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.

According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.

I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.

According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.

The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.

As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.

The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.

The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.

I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.

I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).

Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.

I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.

The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.

I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.

The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.

Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.

Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.

Update:

Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?

A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:

acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.

OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.

Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.

Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.

To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.

Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.

Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.

Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)

Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.

occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.

Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunlight to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunlight and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.

Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.

Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.

My opinions on the spread of water:

I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.

The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.

Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.

According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.