applying adhesive to the pumpkin
Step 1: Coat with Adhesive
Start by covering the top of your pumpkin with a spray adhesive ($10, The Home Depot). Pick a pumpkin with a flat top; Cinderella pumpkins are a perfect shape for this project. This will help the moss stick.
Step 3: Attach Succulents
Group the three tallest succulents slightly to one side of the center, working your way out from the center. To attach succulent cuttings to the moss, use a hot glue gun ($16, Target) or a clear crafts gel kind of adhesive. Continue around the initial set of succulents with extra plants, packing them closely together. Start with hens-and-chicks and sedums if you’re unsure of what kind of succulents to use; both come in variants that stay small and give fascinating colors and textures.
Step 4: Finish Arrangement
With taller succulents placed closer to the pumpkin’s core and shorter ones oriented outward, try to create a mounded succulent pumpkin centerpiece. Because its trailing tendrils look finest draped over the edge of a container, burro’s tail succulents would make a perfect choice for the outer margins (or in this case, a pumpkin).
For how long can you keep succulents in a pumpkin?
Start with your largest succulent in the center of a huge pumpkin, attach the stem with a small amount of hot glue, and insert it into the moss.
Then, keep gluing your larger succulents into the moss as you work your way outward from the center.
Prioritize using your larger succulents before using the smaller hanging and filler succulents.
For a tiny pumpkin, I typically use a larger succulent as the focal point that is somewhat offset from the center, and then I add 2-3 smaller succulents to the sides.
Step 5: Finishing Touches
Look for any areas where the hot glue is visible. If there is, cover the adhesive with little pieces of stretched moss to conceal it.
Succulent Pumpkin Care
However, they will thrive in a partially sunny, covered area with shade. Or indoors where they will be protected from the elements and enjoy some filtered light.
Then, spray the succulents with water at the base of the stem once a week to every other week.
The succulents will gradually begin to sprout roots into the moss; this is ideal because it will allow you to plant them later.
How Long Do Succulent Pumpkins Last?
Starting with a healthy pumpkin will ensure that the entire arrangement lasts at least two to three months. But I have seen pumpkins with succulent tops that lasted for almost a year!
You may see all of my favorite succulents to use on pumpkins on the free list below.
How is a pumpkin succulent cared for?
While some people simply adore all things pumpkin, others are ardent fans of succulents. The best season of the year for these two groups to get together and have a party is the fall. Yes, Charlie Brown, you guessed correctly! It is the Great Succulent Pumpkin season! Continue reading to learn how to make an extremely durable, glue-free, and succulent pumpkin.
How to Make a Living Succulent Pumpkin
A few years ago, when I created my first succulent pumpkin, I genuinely believed I had created it. Of course, I am aware that a lot of succulent lovers also thought they would look fantastic on a pumpkin, and the gorgeous pictures that result are all over Pinterest and Instagram. I wanted to show you my method because it turns out there are a few other ways to make your own succulent pumpkin.
This project has been covered in a lot of articles. Some people attach succulent plants and/or cuttings to moss using hot glue. Many people flinch at the idea of using hot glue on living plants, even though it is widely known that succulents can withstand the heat and the glue, happily roots through the glue into the moss, and ready to be transplanted when the pumpkin is finished. To be completely honest, I also cringe a little at the prospect. But I can assure you that the plants are not harmed. The outcomes are stunning and durable, and they can last for two months!
Others cut the pumpkin in the same way you would a jack-o-lantern and place a container of mixed succulents in the middle to create the same effect without using glue. Although the pumpkin does not stay this way for very long—cut pumpkins only endure 5–10 days—the appearance is festive and ideal for the season, and the succulent pot is portable so it can be simply relocated to another spot to enliven another container.
I choose a different strategy, one that will endure the longest and shouldn’t frighten the faint of heart!
For the most durable arrangement, I place succulent cuttings in quick-draining soil on top of the pumpkin.
You Will Need:
- 1 pumpkin with a concave top that is shorter than it is tall, resembling a Cinderella or fantasy variation.
- luscious soil
- succulent plants and cuttings with a variety of hues and textures
- organic moss (I used sphagnum moss)
Choose a pumpkin whose hue and shape you choose. I chose this kind because it has gorgeously mottled skin in a nice mix of orange and creamy yellow and because I want my succulent pumpkin to be excellent for Halloween and Thanksgiving. Look closely while selecting your pumpkin to make sure it is clear of any cuts or bruises, as they can shorten the amount of time the pumpkin stays in excellent shape. Select one with a concave top that is broader than it is tall, giving you the greatest growing space for your succulents.
Use dirt that dries quickly for succulents (often listed as cactus and palm soil). Grab a handful of soil, moisten it completely, and squeeze off the extra moisture. Put the moist succulent soil on top of your pumpkin and press it into position. Fill in the concavity with more damp earth, then fire a mound. I kept the stem of my pumpkin in place since I loved it, and I shaped the dirt around it. If necessary, the stem can also be used to stabilize part of the cuttings with the use of floral pins or fishing line.
To stick with my fall color scheme, I chose many succulents with burgundy accents in a variety of shapes and textures, such as sedum, crassula, jade, haworthia, and portulacaria. I like to give the succulent cuttings an extra-long stem for this project. Before being “planted,” they should be given two days to recover from the cut so they are in the greatest possible condition to root. The majority of the soil and feeder roots should be removed from plants, leaving only a few sturdy roots.
Planting Your Succulent Pumpkin
My biggest, most significant succulent usually goes in first. That’s the “star of the composition. I positioned the big echeveria agavoides off-center and angled it toward the viewer (lower right side in the image above). Now the situation is “the arrangement’s front. Make sure the soil completely encircles the stem and roots before patting it into place. The plants will eventually take root in the ground. Place the following succulent directly across from the first one in order to maintain the arrangement’s balance and attractiveness from all sides. Next, evenly distribute the next cuts between the first two. All the way around the pumpkin, keep adding your plants and cuttings and making sure the soil is completely covering the roots and stems. Change the angle at which you put things to achieve a final effect that has a soft mounding form. Give yourself some height and a trailing element. I strive to avoid the appearance of the arrangement having too much symmetry because I prefer a natural look to my plants.
The succulents are first somewhat haphazard in the arrangement. You are using very little soil to hold the cuttings and plants in place, so the arrangement is a touch flimsy until they take root. To keep them in position, use flower pins. In order to prevent the pumpkin’s inevitable decay from being sped up, I only insert pins into the stem rather than the pumpkin itself.
Finishing Touches
It’s time to add moss for a final look once all of the cuttings and plants are in place and you are satisfied with the arrangement. Water the moss thoroughly. Pull a little tuft of it apart from the rest by squeezing it out. Put a few whisps of this between the succulents and the pumpkin and tuck it into the arrangement to cover any exposed soil. The moss adds the finishing touch and keeps the roots moist as they start to grow.
Caring for Your Succulent Pumpkin
We use cuttings and plants with their roots pruned, which is one of the reasons this succulent pumpkin endures for so long. You have more time to enjoy the arrangement while they take their time to fully establish roots! Both indoors and outdoors should have enough of bright, indirect light. The pumpkin needs to be kept from freezing, and only 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water should be used to hydrate the succulents once a week. Allowing the soil to dry out somewhat in between waterings is important for its ability to retain its shape.
Here’s a quick tip for utilizing cardboard to extend the shelf life of your pumpkin. Just place your pumpkin on a coaster made of corrugated cardboard! Cut off the circle you traced around the pumpkin. Trim as necessary to ensure that there is no cardboard visible when the pumpkin is placed on it. Provide this cardboard disk whether you display the pumpkin indoors or outdoors. It keeps the pumpkin from lying directly on a surface that isn’t porous, where the accumulation of extra moisture could cause rot. Instead, that tiny bit of moisture is absorbed by the cardboard, extending the pumpkin’s freshness by several more weeks or even months!
You have it now! My recipe for a scrumptious pumpkin that doesn’t require carving or gluing! How do you feel? This fall, are you going to plant your own succulent pumpkin? Please let me know by leaving a comment if you have a moment.
P.P.S. Would you consider joining my Facebook group for cactus lovers? We discuss design, identification, propagation, and care of succulents. They’re a friendly bunch who would love to meet you!
Can succulents be grown in just rocks?
It should be obvious that succulents will thrive when planted in rocks given these circumstances. They drain very well and do not retain water, which eliminates the possibility of root rot. This does not include another component of soil, though, since all plants need nutrients.
Although succulents are not particularly hungry plants, they do need certain nutrients to grow. Other micronutrients like zinc or iron are needed in smaller levels, whereas macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are essential. The plant won’t grow at all or last very long without these nutrients.
By their very nature, rocks don’t release nutrients quickly enough to keep the plants alive. They are composed of minerals, but since they decompose so slowly over time, they are not appropriate for growing on their own. Additionally, they often don’t retain enough moisture, allowing the roots to quickly dry out after draining practically instantly.
Sadly, this means that succulents cannot thrive permanently without soil in rocks. If not given regular care, they may survive for several weeks or even months on the nutrients found in the stems and leaves.
Can succulents be hot glued?
Your closest buddy while dealing with succulents in unconventional pots will also be floral glue. This glue from the Oasis brand cures rapidly and keeps succulents firmly in place. The support needed to keep a succulent in place is minimal. This is something you should have on hand whether you’re making a wreath or a planter out of driftwood.
Hot glue is another option that is equally as effective and affordable. Although I used to use this a lot for my crafts, I’ve found that the floral glue holds its shape better. However, if you already have it, go for it!
What about hot glue?
Actually, using hot glue on succulents is acceptable. On the location where the glue is, it does burn a tiny bit, but the rest of the plant is unaffected.
There are still spaces at the leaf nodes (where the leaves join to the stem) at the stem’s base where new roots can grow despite the bottom of the stem being completely covered in hot glue.
Even though it is now more challenging, your succulents may still send out roots at the end of the stem that, as they grow, may either push the hot glue off or just push up around it.
Crazy! But it’s possible. Your succulents will still grow successfully in either scenario.
Since floral adhesive tends to stick to succulents better, I prefer to use it.
Can succulent cuttings be planted directly in the ground?
What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.
Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.
Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.
Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.
Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.