Perlite or Pumice
A extremely light organic soil supplement is perlite. You can find the white, Styrofoam-like bits in many commercial potting mixtures.
Perlite has a very low water retention capacity, avoids soil compaction, and aids in improving drainage for succulent plants. In other words, it facilitates faster soil drainage, which is ideal for succulent potting soil.
Perlite and pumice are typically available at any garden shop or home improvement store. But occasionally it’s difficult to find, so I typically order it online.
What alternative materials exist to perlite for succulents?
Different perlite substitutes will function better or worse depending on the plants you are growing and the circumstances in which they are growing.
Below, we’ll examine the ten most popular alternatives to perlite.
- rice stalks
- Pumice
- Agricultural tenacity
- granular granite
- Vermiculite
- charred clay
- Bark
- Peat
- Coir
- Sand
Rice husks
PBH rice hulls or parboiled rice husks are excellent substitutes for perlite in soil mixtures. If you’re searching for an organic, greener option, they’re also perfect. When they are parboiled, any weed seeds, mold, or other diseases are removed, effectively sterilizing and killing the rice seed at the same time.
Lightweight rice husks (also known as hulls) aid in soil aeration, drainage, and compaction prevention. Because they are organic, rice hulls are a fantastic source of nutrients for plants and are safe to add to soil for both indoor and outdoor gardening.
The main drawback is that they tend to float to the top of the soil when watered because they are lighter than perlite.
Pumice
Given that both pumice and perlite are porous rocks created by volcanic eruptions, they are quite similar to one another. When comparing “perlite vs. pumice,” many gardeners can become extremely enthusiastic, but the truth is that pumice has a number of advantages over perlite.
It doesn’t float during watering or blow away in the wind because it is heavier, on the other hand. In addition, pumice, unlike perlite, creates less dust, especially the coarser kinds, and contains more nutrients and minerals. Additionally, it does a superb job of maintaining the soil’s airiness, pliability, and drainage. Pumice is by far your finest option if you’re cultivating succulents.
Pumice, on the other hand, is more expensive and can be challenging to locate at most plant nurseries or garden centers.
Horticultural grit
A typical size range for the little stone fragments that make up horticultural grit is 2 to 4 mm. It works similarly to perlite by forming air pockets inside the soil, which gives the roots oxygen while preventing root rot because of better drainage. Grit creates less dust and may be used for both indoor and outdoor plants because it doesn’t contain any lime.
Additionally, it is heavier than perlite, which makes it an ideal ornamental layer for potted plants, particularly if you need to ward off fungus gnats. Succulents, outdoor alpine plants, and lavender respond best to horticultural grit.
Horticultural grit is heavier than perlite, which is a drawback. However, you can make use of this by incorporating it into the soil mixture to balance top-heavy potted plants.
Granite gravel
Perlite and granite gravel have a similar appearance and serve comparable functions in soil mixtures. Both are porous rocks, which are excellent at retaining moisture. They also maintain the soil aerated, well-drained, and free of compaction. Gravel is heavier than perlite, and unlike perlite, even little bits, like pea gravel, won’t wash away during irrigation.
Granite gravel is a perfect option for adorning the topsoil of potted plants because of this, in addition to using it as a garden ornament. In fact, spreading gravel over the surface of the soil can aid with weed management and is a terrific way to aerate and improve the drainage of muddy or clay-rich soils in your garden.
Granite gravel is not a perfect substitute for perlite, mostly because of its weight. It will make potted plant soil mixtures considerably heavier, so use pea gravel instead for smaller pots, especially indoors. Gravel is also a poor choice for germination since immature plants will find it difficult to push through due to its weight.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is a mineral that is extremely absorbent and is used in both indoor and outdoor gardening. It is lightweight, pH-neutral, and does not degrade like perlite. Additionally, it enhances soil structure and aeration.
When used in pots, vermiculite absorbs water and nutrients and holds them in the soil for later use. Vermiculite is actually a far better substitute for perlite if you’re growing plants that require consistently moist soil because it is considerably more absorbent. It is also the best medium for seed germination.
The high absorbency of vermiculite is both one of its benefits and disadvantages. Vermiculite, in contrast to perlite, does not produce a good soil media for plants like cacti and succulents that dislike having their roots constantly moist. Vermiculite is not a good substitute for perlite if you’re seeking for a well-draining potting soil mix.
Calcined clay
Calcined clay is a soil conditioner that is frequently sold under the Turface brand name. It’s probably been used on sporting fields, but it’s also a fantastic substitute for perlite. Although calcined clay is far more absorbent and can hold its weight in water, both are pH neutral and great at retaining moisture.
Cacti and bonsai trees benefit greatly from its ability to maintain the soil’s aeration and improve drainage, making it a wonderful addition to potting mixes. Additionally, because calcined clay is heavier than perlite, watering does not readily wash it away.
We recommend calcined clay without reservation, but we must emphasize that it needs to be replaced from the soil because it will begin to degrade after a few years.
Bark
One of the key ingredients in commercially available potting soil mixtures is bark, particularly pine bark. It aids in soil drainage, keeps soil from being compacted, holds onto water, and gradually distributes nutrients into the soil, depending on its size.
Keep in mind that compared to perlite, fine bark has a lesser air permeability. Because it is organic and biodegradable, bark is a great growing medium for moth orchids and may be used for both indoor and outdoor cultivation.
The most important thing to keep in mind if you’re thinking of using bark in place of perlite is that it is more acidic than the pH neutral perlite, which ranges between 7 and 7.5. The pH of pinewood bark, in particular, ranges from 4.0 to 5.0. If you’re planting magnolias, ferns, carnivorous plants, or other plants that do well in acidic soils, this can be a great benefit. However, most plants favor a pH range of 6.0 to 8.0.
Peat
Peat, which is also known as sphagnum moss, is a great component to soil mixtures. The soil is kept moist for extended periods of time because to its great water retention ability. It helps prevents the soil from being compacted, keeps it aerated, and retains nutrients and minerals because of its fibrous nature.
Some gardeners and houseplant lovers even go as far as replacing soil with peat altogether, which is perfect for growing tomatoes, blueberries, rhododendrons, and other acid-loving plants.
Bark and peat both have an acidic composition. Check the soil pH requirements of the plants you intend to grow before deciding to use peat rather than perlite. Another thing to note is that even though peat is biodegradable, mining for it damages the local ecosystems where it comes from and is not environmentally friendly.
Coir
Coir, often known as coco coir, is a fiber made from the husks of coconuts. It has a texture that is pretty similar to peat moss, and gardeners are using it more frequently because it is easier to create. However, how does it contrast with perlite?
Both coir and perlite are lightweight, help with drainage, and increase air permeability by dissolving dense soils. Coir is a wonderful choice for plants that need moist soil since it has a larger water retention capacity than perlite and, unlike perlite, has a higher ability to absorb nutrients and release them into the soil.
There’s a good reason why coir is frequently suggested as an alternative to perlite instead of peat moss: coir has an acidic pH range of 5.2 to 6.5. Remember that coir has little to no nutrients, so you will need to fertilize your plants frequently if you intend to utilize it as a growing medium on its own.
Sand
Sand may be used in place of perlite, depending on how coarse it is. Sand and perlite are comparable in that they both promote drainage, are pH-neutral, sterile, and are devoid of nutrients. While sand initially absorbs water, it does not hold onto it like perlite does over time, especially the coarser forms.
One of the greatest options for garden soils, particularly clay-rich or highly compacted ones, is sand. Instead of using the extremely fine sand seen in playgrounds for children or construction sites, you should use coarse sand that is around 1.52mm broad.
Remember that sand is significantly heavier than perlite when utilizing it, especially if you intend to use it for potted houseplants.
What serves as perlite’s replacement?
The use of parboiled rice hulls in greenhouse growing media has grown in popularity as a perlite substitute in recent years as greenhouse producers have embraced sustainability and sought out practical ways to save production costs. With minimal loss in plant quality, these specially processed hulls provide producers with economic, horticultural, and environmental benefits. The parboiled rice hulls sold by Riceland Foods, Inc. are OMRI Listed and WSDA Registered under the brand name PBH Nature’s Media Amendment.
PBH rice hulls significantly reduce dust in the greenhouse mixing environment and are more reasonably priced than perlite. Their natural hue mixes nicely with other media elements, and their highly compressed packaging in 30-cu.-ft. bulk bales or 50-lb. standard bags results in less waste and requires less handling, storage, and shipping.
These university- and greenhouse-tested rice hulls have some advantages over perlite in terms of porosity, air-filled pore space, and drainage due to their size, shape, and bulking qualities. PBH mixes may be able to hold more water than perlite mixes, depending on the PBH content. Always test a material’s suitability for your operation before using it in a new application.
Does perlite have to be used for succulents?
There are a ton of recipes online. Most people start with either standard potting soil or the soil mix sold in bags for succulent plants. If you decide to create your own blend, use ordinary potting soil free of additives. We’ll go over additional components to include when amending or creating your own succulent potting soil.
Succulent growth medium frequently gets the following additions:
Fine Sand
Improved soil drainage results from using coarse sand in amounts of 50 to 30 percent. Avoid using materials with fine textures, such as play sand. A higher sand content may be advantageous for cacti, but it must be coarse sand.
PerlitePerlite is frequently used in succulent-growing mixtures. This product improves drainage and promotes aeration, although it is light and frequently floats to the top when watered. Use between 1/3 and 50% when mixing with potting soil.
Turface
Turface is a calcine clay product and soil conditioner that delivers aeration, oxygen, and moisture monitoring to the soil. It has the consistency of pebbles and does not compact. Although it goes by the brand name Turface, the phrase “product” is also frequently used to describe it. used as a top dressing as well as an ingredient in succulent soil mixes.
PumicePumice is a volcanic substance that may store nutrients and moisture. Some people utilize significant amounts of pumice. Some growers report successful trials when using only pumice. But using this kind of material necessitates more regular watering. Depending on where you live, you might need to order this item.
Coconut CoirUnlike other goods that might not absorb water well after the initial soaking, coconut coir, which is made from the shredded husks of the coconut, offers drainage qualities and can be repeatedly wet. Coir, which is pronounced “core,” was never brought up before to the typical succulent grower. Coir is a component of at least one well-known distributor of succulents’ peculiar mix. I have healthy plants in my nursery and use a mixture of 1/3 normal potting soil (the inexpensive variety), 1/3 coarse sand, and 1/3 coir.
Which soil combination is ideal for succulents?
You’ll need containers that can accommodate the quantity of succulent soil you intend to mix and have room for it to be tossed around a bit.
- The potting mix for succulents works well in a sizable tote with a top.
- Use your hands, a trowel, and a garden fork to mash up the soil.
- Long rubber gloves are usually what you should wear to prevent skin irritability and dryness.
Mix It Up!
half a pot of soil
The opposite half:
- 1/3 fine sand
- 1/3 pumice or perlite
The remainder should consist of roughly two thirds coarse sand, one third perlite or pumice, and one third poultry grit or turface.
How is homemade perlite made?
Lightweight perlite, a typical component of potting soil blends, keeps soil aerated and reduces compaction. It also performs well when used as a component in the casting of lightweight containers called hypertufa planters, which resemble porous volcanic rock. Tiny volcanic rocks make up perlite, which when heated puff up to 13 times their original size like popcorn. Because of this, perlite may fill a big space with only a little weight. Perlite creates a planter that is incredibly lightweight and portable when used as a replacement for coarse sand in hypertufa planters.
In a bucket or other container, combine equal portions of dry cement, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite. Use an equal number of dry scoops to measure each ingredient since you should measure by volume rather than weight.
Water should be added a bit at a time, until the mixture is completely moistened but not wet. Although it can require a little more or less water to bind the components, you’ll need around half as much water as there is of each dry ingredient. You should only need around 1/2 gallon of water if you used 1 gallon of cement, 1 gallon of peat moss, and 1 gallon of perlite.
Use non-stick cooking spray to coat the outside of a small container and the inside of a large casting container so the planter may be removed from the casting container with ease. Although they might have varied designs, the smaller container should have a diameter that is at least 2 inches smaller than the larger one.
The moist hypertufa mixture should be spread out to a minimum 2-inch thickness in the bottom of your large casting container. To ensure that the walls of the planter and the base are of similar thickness, you can make the base layer 3 inches deep if the two casting containers’ diameter differences are 3 inches. A paint stirrer can be used to gently stir the hypertufa to remove any air bubbles that might otherwise cause the planter to break.
Place the smaller casting container inside the bigger one, on top of the hypertufa mixture foundation layer. The hypertufa mixture should be used to fill in the empty space between the small container’s exterior and interior. To get rid of air bubbles, place the paint stirrer stick into the hypertufa and move it up and down on all sides.
Plastic bag the containers to protect them. For about three days, keep them in a cool, shady location so they can solidify. To guarantee that the hypertufa cures and hardens as strongly as possible, remove the plastic and spritz the containers with water once a day.
Remove the planter from the moulds, then use a wire brush to smooth off any sharp edges on the sides. For three more weeks, keep the planter outside in the shade to finish curing. Keep it moist by misting it with water once a day to prolong the curing process and increase strength.
Pour water into the planter and let it drain through the porous hypertufa to remove the extra lime from the cement. For the majority of plants, lime makes soil overly alkaline. As the planter empties, refill it so that it has water in it for at least ten days.
Drill a planting hole with a diameter of 1/4 to 1/2 inch in the center of the bottom of the planter before turning it over. Although the porous hypertufa naturally drains, a drainage hole enables extra water to swiftly drain away so that plants don’t have root rot.