A moss-covered dirt ball with arranged plants is called a kokedama. It is frequently referred to as the “Poor Man’s Bonsai” and is a well-liked type of art in Japan. Your Kokedama can be arranged in a variety of ways, including by combining different succulents, flowers, wildflowers, grasses, herbs, and other plants to create a little orb.
Your favorite succulents can be added indoors, outdoors, or as a focal point at a party or event using a kokedama design. Additionally, kokedama can be helpful for growing all of the loose cuttings you have lying around the house.
How to Make
Make a ball out of peat moss, succulent soil, and enough dirt to cover the succulents’ root systems. Start with a handful of dirt and gradually add water until a sizable ball forms and the soil turns into a flexible clay.
Once the ball has been produced, split it in half (it should remain intact), then sandwich your plant roots between the two pieces. Keep your circular motion as you pound the soils and roots together until they are one and the roots are totally contained. Till the earth feels secure, wrap it in cotton yarn.
Start by covering the soil’s exterior with sheet moss. Start wrapping the rope around the exterior as you cover. You decide the amount and the style of your finished project.
General Care
Bright, indirect light may be preferable for certain plant types. Watch out for stretching brought on by dim lighting.
Simply soak in a bowl of water, then hang to dry. In the summer, succulents should receive liberal waterings; however, between waterings, let the Kokedama dry. You should reduce watering to once a month when the plants go dormant in the winter. The most frequent cause of plant failure and the resultant plant rot is overwatering. Never allow a succulent to stand in water.
Throughout the growing season, you can water with a little of your preferred fertilizer, diluted to 14 strength.
Succulents may be used for kokedama.
You’ll need string or yarn, dirt, moss, your preferred plant, and these materials to practice the kokedama technique.
Grab a few succulents and some dirt, then gently wrap a thick layer of moss around the plant’s roots and base.
Gently form a solid ball out of the moss, plant, and dirt using your palms cupped together.
Once you’ve achieved the right shape, take some thread or yarn and, using your imagination—the only limit is your own creativity!—wrap the small ball to give your kokedama a sense of security.
To hang your little work of living art anyplace, add a little wire hook or keep a long yarn string on hand.
How long is kokedama good for?
In essence, kokedamas are live plants in soil that are covered in moss and twine. That is the condensed form…
Around 400 years ago, Japan is where the Kokedama art form first emerged. Kokedama, which means “Moss Ball” in its literal translation, describes exactly what it is. Originally, bonsai trees were grown in these.
We gently layer a premium soil mixture around the root base after mixing it. We always make sure there is enough dirt so the plant’s roots may spread out and flourish. Sphagnum moss is then utilized to cover the soil ball. This aids in containing the soil and maintaining moisture. The moss and dirt are then meticulously wrapped in layers of high-quality jute rope to create an effective pattern that holds everything together.
I hand-wrap each of our kokedamas, so you could say I’m the machine. Each kokedama is customized specifically for you!
We don’t produce in bulk. Then, each kokedama you order is prepared “new” specifically for you! This enables our hands and eyes to create a superior, wholly original, and one-of-a-kind product for you.
Depending on the plant and size of the kokedama we are wrapping, the process can take anywhere from 15-20 minutes for our micro and small sizes, all the way up to an hour for our jumbos.
To assist you keep your new plant companion alive, every plant and kokedama comes with complete care instructions tailored specifically to your plant. However, there are a few things to bear in mind.
- Position: Think carefully about where you want to put your plant. Not all plants will be suitable for all positions. A fern would not do well, for instance, at a window that receives full sun for the majority of the day. We might recommend a cactus or a succulent.
- How well do you care for different types of plants? Be truthful! There are many fickle plants, but on the other hand, there are also many resilient choices that benefit from neglect. We would be delighted to assist you in making your decision. Please get in touch so we can help you make a decision!
- Simply immerse the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes just below the top of the string ball to hydrate it. This can be carried out in a bowl, bucket, or sink. It might need to be held under at first.
Pulling back the moss at the kokedama’s aperture to expose the soil is another method of watering. As you would with a conventional pot plant, gently push the plant’s foliage back and water from the top of your kokedama. Although it isn’t as effective as soaking, doing this will help your moss and twine last longer. I advise switching between this approach and the soaking approach.
Squeezing out the excess water after it has soaked is one of the important procedures in the care recommendations. By doing this, you can avoid your plant becoming water-logged and a number of diseases like root rot. This will help your plant stay healthy and develop, as well as increase the moss and twine’s lifespan.
Too much water is one of the worst enemies of indoor plants. Water your plants less rather than more for the majority of them. Ferns and other plant species that like higher humidity will need a regular gentle misting of water. Every day, and more often on warm days, I perform mine.
The care instructions and information above are merely a guide; every effort will be made to give you a plant that is healthy and happy. Every house is unique, and only you are familiar with it. Sunlight, humidity, temperature, and air quality will vary from home to home. Your plant’s growth and health will be impacted by each of these elements. In order to effectively care for your plant in your house, we advise conducting some study to learn about its requirements. Watch your plant; it will soon let you know if it is content or not.
Get in contact if you need assistance with any suggestions or care guidance. We are always pleased to assist.
The kokedama was made from natural, biodegradable materials. i.e., they will eventually degrade and change color. This is expected and inevitable.
- Avoid crossing water. We advise soaking the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes. Longer is acceptable and won’t harm the plant, but it may shorten the moss and twine’s lifespan.
- After soaking, gently squeeze the moss ball to expel any remaining water from the kokedama. The moss and twine will dry more quickly as a result.
- To help the moss and twine dry out, make sure there is excellent airflow around the kokedama.
- Spraying the soil at the top of the kokedama alternates with soaking it.
Your kokedama shouldn’t typically need a re-wrapping or re-potting for another 1-2 years. The soil will need to be refreshed at this point regardless!
Everything is good, yes! If your plant is taken care of, it will ultimately outgrow its kokedama, just like all happy, healthy, growing plants.
Some plants thrive when their roots are constrained in constrained places. The plant will survive for a while in good condition, but this will probably limit their growth.
The kokedama will eventually be outgrown by other plants, but it will take time. These may endure for one year or more. We can provide you with further information about the specific plant you chose.
Yes! This is entirely typical. The natural, biodegradable materials we employ are of this kind. The twine will initially appear to be discolored, and soon it will start to fray. depends on how well the kokedama has been cared for, usually between 1-2 years.
The greatest approach to make sure your kokedama doesn’t last long is to overwater it. This includes failing to gently squeeze out the surplus water in accordance with the care manual.
When the moss and twine fall off, it’s actually an excellent time to re-pot or re-wrap your plant, just like you would with a conventional houseplant.
We provide a re-wrap or up-size service to provide your plant new soil and a fresh moss and twine wrap for a modest cost.
Your plant will benefit greatly from this because this is typically the time when plants need to be re-potted and given new soil.
As was already indicated, your kokedama will typically last between one and two years, which is still a lot longer than a bouquet of flowers! But if all goes as planned, the plant will last forever.
What kind of soil are you using for kokedama?
Both homemade and pre-mixed kokedama soil mixes are available online. Below is a recipe for a soil mixture (just skip right to part 2 of the instructions if you purchase pre-mixed soil).
Kokedama soil can also contain clay, limestone to regulate pH, peat moss or coconut coir to store water (to provide essential minerals and to bind the mix together). Small air spaces in the soil are also necessary to promote healthy root development and create channels for excess water to drain.
Clay from Japan called akadama is used to create traditional kokedama. It is employed because it has a lot of air gaps mixed in with the clay-like particles. While still supplying air and drainage pathways for extra water, it can hold enough moisture and nutrients for the plant. Quite cool!
How often are the kokedama watered?
Our Kokedama shells are constructed of natural peat moss, coconut coir, and potting soil. They are a three-plant option that adds flair to houses and is an environmentally beneficial, biodegradable substitute for hanging pots made of plastic or resin. English ivy, lemon button fern, and brazil heartleaf philodendron.
The beautiful, heart-shaped leaves of the tropical Brasil Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendronhederaceum ‘Brasil’) are green and gold. As the Kokedama grows, its cascading stems take on a lovely appearance. Warmth, bright indirect light, and constant moistness of the ball are all it needs. Philodendrons are tolerant of occasional watering neglect, although twice weekly watering is advised. When necessary, trim the stems. To keep the leaves looking glossy and lovely, wipe them down from time to time with a wet cloth.
Nephrolepis cordifolia ‘Duffii’, often known as the delicate lemon button fern, has airy fronds of bright green and a subtle, lemony scent to it. The fronds on the Kokedama get denser with age and nicely meld with the moss. Light shade with filtered sunlight, and maintain consistent moisture levels in the ball. They normally need to be watered three times per week. The fern stays healthy by being misted frequently.
As long as it is consistently pruned and watered, traditional English ivy (Hedera helix), with its trailing branches of dark green leaves, offers a classic appearance. two to three times a week, drink water. In either indirect strong light or shade, it will thrive. Similarly to the Philodendron, dust off the leaves as necessary.
Is sunshine required for kokedama?
The English translation of the Japanese word “kokedama” is “moss ball.” The practice of tying plants together to form mossy, green orbs, sometimes known as “string gardens,” extends back centuries to Japan’s Edo period. It is sometimes referred to as “Poor Man’s Bonsai” (around 1600 AD).
Depending on the plant species utilized, different levels of maintenance are required for these living sculptures. Here are the steps we take to water our kokedama as well as a list of the plant species and types we often use to make ours, along with the maintenance requirements for each.
Watering Technique:
Fill a sink, bowl, or bucket with room temperature water to use as a sink or bowl for soaking your kokedama, depending on its size.
Put the plant side of the kokedama in the water. In order for the moss ball to fully sink and start soaking up water, push it down. Soak for 10 to 25 minutes, or until completely submerged in water.
Kokedama the water out, then gently squeeze the moss ball to let the extra moisture drain. Kokedama should drain dry in a colander before being reinserted into its designated location.
Misting: In addition to bathing, many kokedama enjoy misting (see below). Spray on and around plant foliage using a spray bottle that emits a thin mist. To prevent burning the plant, mist early in the day when the light is soft.
Kokedama with Jungle Cacti:
General maintenance: Jungle cactus are epiphytes that develop in the tree crooks of hot, muggy woods. As a result, they can tolerate more moisture and less light than the majority of their succulent and cactus relatives. Due to their small root requirements as epiphytes, they are perfect for kokedama. In the summer, jungle cactus kokedama can be hung outside as long as they are shielded from the sun.
- A wide range of light, from dim indirect to bright filtered, is tolerated by Rhipsalis sp. Keep away from the sun’s rays. resistant to drought. Allow between waterings to almost completely dry.
- “Drunkard’s bones” Hatiora salicornioides: Put in indirect light that is bright to medium. Keep away from the sun’s rays. resistant to drought. Allow between waterings to almost completely dry.
- Place Lepismium cruciforme in indirect light that is moderate to bright. Keep away from the sun’s rays. resistant to drought. Allow between waterings to almost completely dry.
- Place epiphyllum sp. in indirect light that is moderate to bright. Keep away from the sun’s rays. resistant to drought. Allow between waterings to almost completely dry.
F. Kokedama
General care: Although they shouldn’t be allowed to totally dry out, fern kokedama appreciate brighter light and less water than one may anticipate. Keep out of the direct sun
- Place the Asplenium “Bird’s Nest Fern” in indirect light that is moderate to bright. When the moss is barely moist to the touch and feels dry but not crispy, water the plant.
- Place the Asplenium “Mother fern” in indirect light that is moderate to bright. When the moss is barely moist to the touch and feels dry but not crispy, water the plant.
- Place the Davalia “Rabbit’s foot fern” in indirect light that is moderate to bright. enjoys sprinkling frequently. water that is barely damp. Can go dormant when startled; if the plant is maintained moist, new fronds will sprout from the fuzzy rhizomes.
Vining and tropical kokedama:
General maintenance: Compared to their succulent counterparts, tropical plants like high humidity and more frequent watering. It is important to avoid overwatering them because they are sensitive to it. By species, care requirements differ greatly. We all like sprinkling.
- A tolerant species, philodendron. Protect against direct sunlight and place in low to brilliant indirect light. Drought tolerant; water when the soil at the base of the plant feels just moist enough or when the leaves begin to show indications of withering.
- A broadly tolerant genus is pothos. Protect against direct sunlight and place in low to brilliant indirect light. Drought tolerant; water when the soil at the base of the plant feels just moist enough or when the leaves begin to show indications of withering.
- Muehlenbeckia: Needs careful attention; shouldn’t completely dry up. Put in indirect light that is bright to medium. When stunned, might become dormant and defoliate. Till new foliage appears, keep the area cool and barely damp.
- Hoya: Hoyas require less water than other tropical plants because of their waxy, succulent leaves and stems. Protect from direct sunlight and place in medium-bright indirect light. Varieties with stripes or spots require more light than those without. When the moss ball is almost dry, water it.
- Anthuriums favor medium to strong indirect light. Allow between waterings to almost completely (but not quite) dry out. Take additional care to maintain these conditions during winter as anthurium prefer warm temperatures and heavy humidity.
Use a liquid indoor plant fertilizer at half the recommended dosage to fertilize your kokedama once a month during the spring and summer. To soak, simply add the fertilizer to the water and stir.
Like any other potted plant, kokedemas can be over- or under-watered. Under-watering is frequently indicated by the edges of leaves turning brown and crisping. Overwatering is typically indicated by brown “mushiness” of the leaves or stems, black stems at the base, and yellowing of the foliage. Keep in mind that all plants need more water when they are actively growing than when they are dormant (fall and winter) (in spring and summer.)