How To Make Succulent Ball

Each hanging basket should have some dirt in it. Finish adding dirt to each basket, then add one substantial flower block. To make an orb, place a piece of cardboard on top of one of the baskets, firmly hold it in place, and then flip it over to the other basket. Make sure the edges of the hanging basket are aligned before beginning to slowly peel the cardboard out. Before removing the cardboard entirely, fasten one side with a zip tie. Adding ties as necessary, keep removing the cardboard.

Add Moss to the Ball

Your sphagnum moss sheets should be soaked in water before being squeezed dry. Apply the damp moss to the ball form, wrapping the floral wire over the sheets to keep them in place. Using floral wire or pins, keep adding moss bits until the entire orb is covered.

Insert Succulent Cuttings

Use a screwdriver or an awl to make holes in the moss and deep within the foam to insert succulents. Leave enough space between plants so they can flourish. If required, fasten with flower pins.

It will take your succulent plants about six months to fully develop their roots and affix them to the material in the ball frame. You won’t want to hang your hanging succulent ball upright until the plants are well-rooted, so keep it sitting on top of a container like a plant pot or can in the interim.

Editor’s Advice: Pick cold-tolerant succulent plants if you intend to leave your succulent ball outside all year. Cold-tolerant succulents like sedums and hens and chicks will be perfect for this project.

Add Chain & Hang

You’ll fasten the chain to the sides of the succulent ball once it’s prepared to be hung. You can, if you’d like, add a few additional plant cuttings to the orb’s empty spaces once the ball is suspended.

Editor’s Tip: To water your hanging succulent plants, submerge it in water and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Between waterings, make sure to let your succulent orb completely dry out.

How are succulent baskets made?

Materials:

  • pot, basket, or container
  • cuttings from succulents or nursery plants
  • Container soil
  • lining with heavy plastic (optional)
  • arid moss (optional)
  • Ribbon (optional)

Method:

Line a basket with thick mil plastic because extended contact to moisture could cause it to degrade (i.e. a trash bag; see how to do it). Make a few drainage holes or suggest that the receiver water the plant sparingly just enough to wet the soil. For a luxuriant appearance, add cuttings after filling the container with potting soil. If you’re using nursery succulents, plant them as you would in any container or just tuck them into the basket while they’re still in their pots. To hide pot rims and gaps, cover them with dry moss. A bow or ribbon completes the look and indicates that the object is a gift.

How are hanging plant balls made?

In addition to being lovely, kokedama, which is Japanese for “moss ball,” are a sort of bonsai that are simple to make at home and can be finished in a single afternoon. Owners of the plant design firm Embark Garden in New York, Robynne Heymans and Mike Madden, gave us their advice on how to build these hanging planters in just five easy steps.

Start With:

  • Bonsai ground
  • bog moss
  • Water
  • little plant
  • blanket moss (preserved or living)
  • String

Heymans advises avoiding chemical additions by utilizing organic goods whenever possible. Most nurseries, hydroponic shops, and hardware stores that sell orchids also have peat moss and bonsai soil.

How to Take Care of Your Kokedama

  • For humidity, mist frequently or set on a tray with pebbles and water.
  • Water until the ball feels heavy under the faucet or in a small dish of water. Before hanging it back up, let it drip in the sink.
  • Put your kokedama immediately in front of a north-facing window or two to three feet away from a window that faces south, west, or east. They require direct, intense light to develop.
  • In the cold, stay away from the radiator.
  • Dead leaves should be removed.
  • As the plant matures, anticipate needing to repot once per year or so.

Watch It in Action:

This material was downloaded from YouTube. At their website, you might be able to discover the same material in a different format or more details.

How is a hanging basket globe made?

I frequently work with sphagnum moss. In actuality, this planter resembles the Sphagnum Moss Planter I created a few years ago rather a little.

Additionally, I made my sister a lovely hanging vertical herb garden with it. All you have to do is soak the moss in some water for a little while once it arrives dry.

Start by removing the hanging chains for this project (save one for later), then place a piece of plastic in the bottom.

Next, begin lining the basket with the moss after extracting part of its water. The wire spacing is fairly wide, so you’ll need to make it quite thick.

You can use less if your basket is smaller. Add some all-purpose potting soil after filling the basket between third and half full.

Then incorporate some of the flowers. These white begonias are part of a six-pack. As they expand, they’ll fill out and develop a lovely, compact appearance. Alyssum would make a suitable alternative in this situation.

Annuals in packs of six are ideal for this project, but if you can only locate them in four-inch pots, pay special attention to the soil’s surface. If you look attentively, you might see many plants. This will enable you to gently separate them into individual pieces for use in various places.

Repeat the process for the second wire basket, adding extra soil as necessary.

Carefully tip the baskets onto their sides, then bring them together with zip ties to form a globe.

At this point, having an additional pair of hands would be useful, but I completed this task alone, so you can, too. Use scissors to remove any extra plastic from the zip tie.

After that, insert another flowering plant by making a hole at the bottom with your fingers.

Use the chain hanger at the top, then evenly space it across the spokes right outside the circle. The plastic may then be carefully removed, and a final flower can be added at the top.

Hang your creation and beam with pride. You can apply a little additional moss to any bare patches to fill them in.

How to Care for the Hanging Planter

Use a watering wand to completely soak the planter in water. Alternately, place the entire planter in a big tub of water and submerge it there for 20–30 seconds.

Feel free to give the plants a few trims over the summer to maintain their globe form as time goes on.

Wouldn’t this be a wonderful present? For Mother’s Day, a birthday, or just because, give someone who appreciates flowers a present.

Are pearls on a thread slow to grow?

Unique vining succulents known as “string of pearls” are distinguished by their tiny, pea-shaped leaves. Similar to the string of rubies succulent, the leaves are borne on trailing stems that elegantly drape over the sides of planters and hanging baskets. The plant, which is strong and grows quickly—gaining between 5 and 15 inches each year—can be propagated using these stems because it does not survive without them.

String of pearls plants are commonly grown as hanging plants year-round across the world, but in their native desert habitat in east Africa, they are terrestrial and cover the ground. Although you can grow it at any time, the warmer months will yield the best results. The string of pearls produces white flowers with a lovely cinnamon-like aroma in the spring in addition to its unusual sphere-shaped leaves, yet it rarely blooms inside. Both people and animals should avoid this plant.

Do hanging baskets work well for growing succulents?

Regarding depth, hanging baskets are also ideal. The majority of succulents don’t need very deep pots, and hanging baskets with a diameter of 8 and a depth of approximately the same work well for many different kinds of succulents. For many succulents, a depth of even six is sufficient. By the end of the summer, if they outgrow the hanging basket, they can simply be moved to inside pots where they can spend the winter or they can be propagated to produce new succulents from the mother plant. For the brief duration of the summer season, they don’t mind being crammed in a basket. For succulents, hanging baskets are an excellent option and offer a lot of advantages.

How can I create orbs out of concrete?

You can purchase concrete mix at any hardware or big box shop.

  • First, get the glass globes ready.
  • Mix the concrete in step two.
  • Step 3: Pour concrete into the globes.
  • Allow the Concrete Orbs to Dry in Step 4.
  • Cracking and removing the glass globes from the concrete orbs is step five.

How long is kokedama good for?

In essence, kokedamas are live plants in soil that are covered in moss and twine. That is the condensed form…

Around 400 years ago, Japan is where the Kokedama art form first emerged. Kokedama, which means “Moss Ball” in its literal translation, describes exactly what it is. Originally, bonsai trees were grown in these.

We gently layer a premium soil mixture around the root base after mixing it. We always make sure there is enough dirt so the plant’s roots may spread out and flourish. Sphagnum moss is then utilized to cover the soil ball. This aids in containing the soil and maintaining moisture. The moss and dirt are then meticulously wrapped in layers of high-quality jute rope to create an effective pattern that holds everything together.

I hand-wrap each of our kokedamas, so you could say I’m the machine. Each kokedama is customized specifically for you!

We don’t produce in bulk. Then, each kokedama you order is prepared “new” specifically for you! This enables our hands and eyes to create a superior, wholly original, and one-of-a-kind product for you.

Depending on the plant and size of the kokedama we are wrapping, the process can take anywhere from 15-20 minutes for our micro and small sizes, all the way up to an hour for our jumbos.

To assist you keep your new plant companion alive, every plant and kokedama comes with complete care instructions tailored specifically to your plant. However, there are a few things to bear in mind.

  • Position: Think carefully about where you want to put your plant. Not all plants will be suitable for all positions. A fern would not do well, for instance, at a window that receives full sun for the majority of the day. We might recommend a cactus or a succulent.
  • How well do you care for different types of plants? Be truthful! There are many fickle plants, but on the other hand, there are also many resilient choices that benefit from neglect. We would be delighted to assist you in making your decision. Please get in touch so we can help you make a decision!
  • Simply immerse the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes just below the top of the string ball to hydrate it. This can be carried out in a bowl, bucket, or sink. It might need to be held under at first.

Pulling back the moss at the kokedama’s aperture to expose the soil is another method of watering. As you would with a conventional pot plant, gently push the plant’s foliage back and water from the top of your kokedama. Although it isn’t as effective as soaking, doing this will help your moss and twine last longer. I advise switching between this approach and the soaking approach.

Squeezing out the excess water after it has soaked is one of the important procedures in the care recommendations. By doing this, you can avoid your plant becoming water-logged and a number of diseases like root rot. This will help your plant stay healthy and develop, as well as increase the moss and twine’s lifespan.

Too much water is one of the worst enemies of indoor plants. Water your plants less rather than more for the majority of them. Ferns and other plant species that like higher humidity will need a regular gentle misting of water. Every day, and more often on warm days, I perform mine.

The care instructions and information above are merely a guide; every effort will be made to give you a plant that is healthy and happy. Every house is unique, and only you are familiar with it. Sunlight, humidity, temperature, and air quality will vary from home to home. Your plant’s growth and health will be impacted by each of these elements. In order to effectively care for your plant in your house, we advise conducting some study to learn about its requirements. Watch your plant; it will soon let you know if it is content or not.

Get in contact if you need assistance with any suggestions or care guidance. We are always pleased to assist.

The kokedama was made from natural, biodegradable materials. i.e., they will eventually degrade and change color. This is expected and inevitable.

  • Avoid crossing water. We advise soaking the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes. Longer is acceptable and won’t harm the plant, but it may shorten the moss and twine’s lifespan.
  • After soaking, gently squeeze the moss ball to expel any remaining water from the kokedama. The moss and twine will dry more quickly as a result.
  • To help the moss and twine dry out, make sure there is excellent airflow around the kokedama.
  • Spraying the soil at the top of the kokedama alternates with soaking it.

Your kokedama shouldn’t typically need a re-wrapping or re-potting for another 1-2 years. The soil will need to be refreshed at this point regardless!

Everything is good, yes! If your plant is taken care of, it will ultimately outgrow its kokedama, just like all happy, healthy, growing plants.

Some plants thrive when their roots are constrained in constrained places. The plant will survive for a while in good condition, but this will probably limit their growth.

The kokedama will eventually be outgrown by other plants, but it will take time. These may endure for one year or more. We can provide you with further information about the specific plant you chose.

Yes! This is entirely typical. The natural, biodegradable materials we employ are of this kind. The twine will initially appear to be discolored, and soon it will start to fray. depends on how well the kokedama has been cared for, usually between 1-2 years.

The greatest approach to make sure your kokedama doesn’t last long is to overwater it. This includes failing to gently squeeze out the surplus water in accordance with the care manual.

When the moss and twine fall off, it’s actually an excellent time to re-pot or re-wrap your plant, just like you would with a conventional houseplant.

We provide a re-wrap or up-size service to provide your plant new soil and a fresh moss and twine wrap for a modest cost.

Your plant will benefit greatly from this because this is typically the time when plants need to be re-potted and given new soil.

As was already indicated, your kokedama will typically last between one and two years, which is still a lot longer than a bouquet of flowers! But if all goes as planned, the plant will last forever.