Because cactus blossoms don’t persist long, wind or insect pollination is more challenging. Cacti are unable to produce fruits and seeds without pollination. When you self-pollinate cacti, you have complete control over the outcome, whether you’re aiming to develop a novel hybrid or develop a particular cactus variety. Hand pollination is the only way to guarantee that the two types you are attempting to cross pollinate, as hybrid pollination does not always result in the production of viable seeds.
Once flowers start to develop, put your two cactus plants next to one another. You can try to create a hybrid with the same type of cactus or with two different types by crossing them. Choose which plants you want to pollinate if the cacti are outside. Although more pollen can be transported when the plants are close to one another, this is not necessary.
Check your flowers every day for pollen. The stamens, which are frequently fluffy threads encircling the part of the flower where the stigma are located, are where pollen grows. The flower’s petals show a thin dusting of pollen.
The second cactus flower’s stigma should be painted with pollen. The stigma, which resembles tiny fingers in appearance, are thicker than the stamens. In order to help them capture the pollen, the tops are typically slightly open and sticky. Wait another day before attempting to pollinate if the stigma tops are not yet open to give them time to do so.
Wait for the brush to dry after cleaning it. The second cactus bloom should be used to complete the process, with the pollen being applied to the stigma of the first cactus after dusting the stamens for pollen.
Nylon stockings should be placed over both cacti to stop pollination by other cactus plants. Only if you want to try and influence the kind of seed the plants produce is this important. If your primary objective is to induce the cactus to produce fruit or seeds, keep the plants exposed to attract insects and wind, which will aid in additional pollination.
How is a cactus crossbred?
Cross-pollination is therefore required using a plant that has already blossomed. The best part is that every variety of succulent you’re trying to cross-pollinate will be subject to the following restrictions and recommendations.
The succulent of your choice must first be crossed with another succulent of your choice. This method is rather straightforward.
Take one blossom’s pollen and transfer it to the flower of another succulent by using a soft, little brush (like a paintbrush) or Q-tip inside the first flower. Additionally, this should result in a cross-pollinated seed pod from which you can plant the seeds. You can repeat this for every blossom on your succulents if they have more than one.
To prevent it from becoming infected with pollen from other plants, you should maintain your “new” plant in semi-isolation (unless you’re feeling very adventurous!).
Sadly, you won’t be able to know whether the cross-breeding was successful straight away. You’ll need to wait till the plant has some maturity before you can judge your success by how it appears.
How are hybrid succulents made?
If you’re a die-hard admirer of succulents, the “hybrid succulents” method, which is novel and intriguing, can undoubtedly excite you more.
What are they exactly? How does one get made? What are some of the most well-liked hybrid succulent varieties? Please continue reading for answers to all of these queries.
What is hybrid Succulent?
The act of cross-breeding two plants of different species to produce hybrid succulents, also known as hybridization of succulents, results in an entirely new species of succulent that you have probably never seen before!
This procedure, which includes cross-pollinating one type of succulent with the pollen of another species of succulent, is a little complex and demands a lot of patience. Additionally, until the succulent has developed, you won’t actually be able to tell if your hybridization was effective.  
The outcome is well worth the wait, which may even turn into an obsession, even if you can never predict in advance which specific qualities and attributes will be passed down to the new plant.
 
How do you create one?
Get at least two of your succulents to bloom at the same time if you want to try hybridizing some of your succulents. Once you have, apply a delicate, little paintbrush or Q-tip inside one blossom to collect its pollen before transferring it to the flower of another succulent.
You should be able to tell if your hybridization was effective in a matter of weeks to months if you see that the flower’s base has enlarged.
Until the seeds are gathered and sown, be sure to keep the pollinated plant in a semi-isolation. By doing this, you will stop insects from pollinating your plant with those of other plants.
You now get the delight of naming the outcome of your labor of love after seeing it. Either integrate the two names of the hybridized plants into one, or come up with a brand-new name!
Some of the most popular hybrids
As you may already be aware, there are many cross-bred succulents in existence today, with some of the most well-known genera being;
- Any type of Echeveria, as these succulents are quite simple to hybridize. If the plant’s name ends in “veria,” you may be sure that it has been cross-bred with this genus.
- x Graptosedum, a genus that combines Sedum and Graptopetalum.
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- Little Jewel and Pachyveria haagei, two cross-bred Pachyphytum and Echeveria plants, are examples of x Pachyverias.
- x Gasteraloe, which are hybrids of the Gasteria and Aloe genera. The Gasteria Flow Spiky Aloe is a commendable example of this genus.
How are hybrid houseplants created?
Pollen is transferred between two types of the same plant in order to produce a hybrid plant. More specifically, the stamen of one plant’s flower pollinates the pistil of another flower, which is its female counterpart. You can collect, plant, and nurture the hybridized seeds found in the ensuing fruits.
Even though you have no control over how the hybridization procedure will turn out, you might still be happy with the new plants you developed from collected seeds. For instance, your hybrid plant can have a mouthwatering new color from the parent plants. Just remember to keep your attachments to your creations in check because you could never see the same plants again. The steps to creating your own hybrids are as follows:
- Pick two variants from the species of flowers you want to work with and the type of species you want to work with. Selecting two cultivars that bloom roughly at the same time is crucial. Selecting species-specific cultivars that bloom several weeks or months apart is not recommended.
- Choose the plant that will serve as the female (the pistil) and the one that you wish to collect pollen from (the stamen, male parts).
- By pinching it off with your fingers, remove the stamen from the female plant (the long, thin stalk in the center of a flower). Your plant might be able to self-pollinate if you skip this phase, but it might be challenging because the flowers aren’t yet fully open enough for you to easily get inside.
- Remove the male flower’s stem. Before transferring the pollen to the female, you might need to snip off the petals using a pair of cuticle scissors to gain access to it.
- Push the male flower’s anthers—the pollen that is located on top of the stamen—into the female flower. To hand pollinate, lightly rub the two plants together. Pollen can also be moved from a male flower to a female blossom using a cotton swab or paintbrush. Toss the male blossom away.
- Carefully cover the female flower with a plastic bag to stop wind, insects, or birds from naturally cross-pollinating it.
- By marking the female flowers, you can keep track of your hybridization efforts. What kind of male flower did you use to fertilize the female flowers?
- The seeds that are produced when the female plant’s ripe fruits are harvested, stored, and labeled (fruits typically appear after the flowers have died).
- The following year, plant the hybrid seeds to create your first hybrid plant.
Can I breed succulents together?
It is simple to cross-pollinate succulents. Stem cuttings are the most frequent method of propagating succulents. A plant that is genetically identical to its parent is produced through rooted stem cuttings. You must cross-pollinate two distinct succulent cultivars if you want to combine their genetic makeup.
Succulent hybrid: what is it?
Combinations of plants from two different genera are known as hybrid succulents. Echeveria, Sedum, Graptopetalum, and Pachyphytum are a few genera that readily cross pollinate and produce some exquisite hybrids. The resulting hybrids resemble both parents and frequently combine the greatest characteristics of each.
Succulent varieties can have different requirements, so make sure to read the care instructions on each variety’s page. Succulents generally require a lot of sunshine, quick drainage, and deep but infrequent water.
LIGHT
After delivery, gradually expose your succulent to more intense sunlight for one to two weeks. A succulent can display its most colorful pigments and keep a healthy, compact form by placing itself in bright window sills, grow lights, and partial outside sun.
SOIL / DRAINAGE
Your succulent should be repotted in a container with a drainage hole. To stop rot, use a stony, well-draining soil. Numerous succulents with thick leaves thrive in rocky soils like Bonsai Jack Gritty Mix. Alternatively, you may create your own by combining a bag of cactus and succulent soil from the garden center with an equivalent amount of mineral grit, such as pumice, perlite, or coarse sand.
WATER
All succulents are drought-tolerant and are vulnerable to rot if overwatered or kept in wet soil. Water only when the leaves begin to feel more pliable AND the soil is fully dry. When you water succulents, they prefer a thorough soak (enough for water to drain through the drainage hole in the pot). Pay particular attention to any seasonal dormancy mentioned in the description of a given type. When succulents are dormant, they should be left dry.
How are variegated succulents bred?
Any plant with a variegated leaf, including variegated succulents, can develop in a number of ways. Genetic mutations are the main cause of variation. It is a genetic accident rather than a response to the environment of the plant. Some of these colorful mutations will be passed on to the progeny of these mutant plants. These are hereditary variations, thus whether the kids come from seeds or cuttings, they will acquire the coloration of their parents. Many will not genetically pass on the variation to their progeny. As they have two different chromosome types, they are referred to as “chimerashave. In this situation, stem cuttings or leaf propagation from a variegated leaf are the only ways to keep the variegation in the progeny.
The distinct colour will frequently not persist when variegation mutation occurs in the wild. It will either not be able to produce enough chlorophyll to support itself, or the solidly green parts of the plant will perform better than the variegated ones. However, when cultivating a plant, growers will choose a variegated plant for extra attention and breeding. While some variegated succulents do need extra attention, many are already well-cared for just by being in your yard.
A fatal virus is another factor that might contribute to vivid variegation. To create stable variegates for sale, hybridizers have worked hard to isolate some viruses, such as the canna mosaic virus.
Reflective Variegation
Another type of variegation is when certain portions of the leaf reflect more light than other parts of the leaf, causing the color to shift rather than distinct pigments in the leaf’s flesh. These reflective variegates could contain air bubbles or “leaf windows just below the leaf’s surface give the foliage a silvery appearance. Or the surface of the leaf may develop fine white or silver hairs or patterns, giving it a multicolored appearance. Amazing Agave victoriae-reginae, “A beautiful illustration of a reflected variegated succulent is the Queen Victoria Agave. A chalky white material on the leaf surface creates the detailed white tracings on the leaves. These plants are genetic variegates, which means that their offspring inherit their appearance.
Possible Defensive Value to Variegation?
Some scientists hypothesize that some variegated succulents’ elaborate tracings may constitute a protective mechanism. It is thought that these tracings may imitate the work of leaf miners or other equally destructive pests and persuade the territorial insects to ignore these plants. Undoubtedly, it is feasible. Definitely more scientific than the notion that this amazing Echeveria nodulosa is merely for display. You can understand why some people could believe this and how this plant came to be known as “painted echeveria.”
Sue Morton has my appreciation for sharing this picture. Visit Sue’s Facebook page, Succulents by Sue, to see her lovely succulent arrangements.
Caring for Variegated Succulents
A plant with variegated leaves may seem to require more sunlight to make up for the absence of chlorophyll. Actually, most variegated succulents require a little bit extra protection from direct sunlight because chlorophyll also shields the leaf from sunburn. They are less tolerant of shadow than their greener relatives, though, perhaps because to their lesser synthesis of photosynthesizing chlorophyll. Your yellow and white variegated plants require bright, indirect light during the hottest time of the day and year. The best conditions for this remarkable variegated Haworthia cymbiformis are indoors. I appreciate Carol Piner allowing me to use her picture. She cultivates and arranges succulents, and she is an amazing artist. Visit Carol Piner’s Facebook page to view her lovely creations!
Succulents that are variegated because of a lack of chlorophyll are also a little more sensitive to temperature fluctuations than solid-green varieties. The green pigment reduces the effects of heat and cold stress in the same way as it shields the plant from sunburn. the plant’s variegated variety. Variegated leaf plants frequently have a smaller range of cold resistance than solid green species.
Unlike its more cold-hardy, full sun cousins, the beautiful variegated Agave lonphantha ‘Quadricolor’ thrives in zones 8 to 10 and in partial sun. Isn’t it remarkable?
Growing Variegated Succulents
Succulents with genetically stable variegation thrive when grown from seeds, division, cuttings, or leaves (so long as the plant can be propagated by each means). Compared to their brothers with solid colors, variegated plants typically develop more slowly and mature at a smaller size. When choosing plants for your garden or containers, keep this in mind.
Encouraging Variegation in Succulents
Some plants with variegation have very precise variegation patterns. They follow a particular pattern, just like the Queen Victoria Agave up top. The variegated leaf, however, can vary significantly from one twig or branch to the next in most plants, as can be seen on this Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’. A variegated succulent’s branch or pup will frequently “revert” or lose its variegation. On a variegated plant, you would notice the development of solid green leaves. Succulent pups are the tiny succulents that sprout at the base. If the green branches or pups are left intact, they will eventually outgrow the variegated mother plant and can turn the entire plant green.
If your succulent with multiple colors starts to revert, you can take action to preserve it vibrant. Remove any growth that is solidly pigmented. Reduce the branch to a side branch with different colors. Remove any puppies with solid colors. Give the plant a little more love. Protect the plant if it was growing in full sun, a lot of shadow, unusually high or low temperatures, or if it has been too dry for an extended period of time. Even though I like to stress succulents to bring out more color, doing so can make a variegated succulent go back to its original hue. In this instance, the plant produces more chlorophyll to meet its requirement for more resources, losing the lovely color diversity you adore in the process.
On the other hand, a solid-colored succulent might sporadically display variegation. As mentioned above, this could be a virus or an indication of difficulty caused by insects. Keep a keen eye out for insect activity and the state of the plant in general. If pathology has been ruled out and your solid-colored succulent displays a leaf, branch, or pup with attractive variegation, by all means, propagate it! Give a stem cutting special attention. Once it has taken root, provide it with bright, indirect light and watch for any symptoms of stress.
I hope you’ve enjoyed getting to know variegated succulents a little better. They are one of my personal favorites. Never be hesitant to increase them! In general, there is no need to baby them; they only require a little more attention than other varieties. Simply leave a comment on this post if you have any queries or suggestions. I look forward to hearing from you, and I’ll reply straight away!
P.P.S. Would you consider joining my Facebook group for cactus lovers? We discuss design, identification, propagation, and care of succulents. They’re a friendly bunch who would love to meet you!