1. Make the clay into a soft, flexible ball to start.
2. Create one-centimeter clay balls in all three green hues.
3. To make three different types of succulent plants, shape the balls into three different forms.
4. Leaves, cones, and tears.
5. To create a floral shape, firmly press 6–8 leaves together at one end.
6. On top of it, add 4-6 layers of leaves.
7. Add three additional leaves to complete the plant.
8. Flatten a ball into a disk, then push a cone-shaped end on the disk’s edge.
9. To create another plant, squeeze the cones together in the center.
10. At the rounded base, firmly press four tear drops together.
11. To make another plant, alternately layer the tear droplets.
12. You may create numerous plants of various sizes and forms by repeating these processes.
13. Make a toothpick hole at the bottom of each clay plant.
14. Bake the clay in the oven as instructed. That lasted for me 25 minutes at 200 degrees.
15. Use mod podge to seal the clay after it has cooled.
16. Insert each plant into the dirt or rocks of the plant pot using a toothpick.
What kind of clay are the plant pots made of?
Clay of the type known as terra cotta is frequently used to create pots and planters of all shapes and sizes. A terra cotta pot’s height or diameter is only limited by the artist’s imagination and can be as little as two inches.
These containers are highly adaptable and come in an almost infinite variety of shapes and sizes. It often has a warm reddish brown hue and appeals to gardeners for its earthy appearance.
Terra cotta is a popular material among gardeners for both indoor and outdoor use because it is typically widely available and reasonably priced.
Can you bake clay in the oven for plant pots?
Ready to start creating? You can make your own amazing terrazzo planter by following the steps in the video tutorial below, but if you prefer to read directions, scroll down for the written ones.
Prepare Can.
Start by preparing your cans first. Consider taking a look at what’s in your recycle bin right now! Wash the cans and take off any labels. The height and diameter of the can must then be measured.
You can omit this step if you intend to use your terrazzo planter primarily as a vase or simply for fake plants. You must first create some drainage holes for any growing plants. To achieve this, carefully poke holes in the bottom of your can with a hammer and nail.
Slice Off Small Pieces.
Choose the color scheme for your terrazzo design first. There are several fantastic color options available with Sculpey III, plus you can always create your own color combinations. I used the colors Sky Blue, Sweet Potato, Gentle Plum, Beige, Black, and White for my planter.
Slice off a small piece of clay with your craft knife, then chop it into even smaller pieces. Keep in mind that when you roll out these pieces later, they will grow a little bit.
Roll Out Main Color.
You’ll require a sizable piece of clay to create the planter’s dominant color. I filled my larger planter with about 4 oz. of white clay. To begin, knead the clay to make it softer. Then, roll it out to a thickness of roughly 1/81/4. You must roll it out so that it is slightly wider than the diameter of your can and slightly taller than the height of your can.
Add Small Pieces.
After that, you just layer the clay’s main color that has been rolled out over all those tiny bits that you chopped up. Depending on the size of your pieces and how far apart you space them, this process may take some time. Then using your hands, carefully press them into the clay. They can stay put for the remainder of the process thanks to this.
Roll over the tiny parts with your roller until the top of your clay is smooth and they have been crushed into the primary color.
Cut to Size and Wrap around Can.
It’s time to move your finished terrazzo clay over to cover the can. Cut the clay to the proper size first. To reach my length, I added roughly 1/2 inch to the diameter, and to the can’s height, I added 3/4 inch. A straight edge and your craft knife work just as well for lengthy, straight cuts as the Sculpey Super Slicer tool.
Peel off the leftover edge scraps and set them aside. Later, we’ll employ them.
In order to wrap the can, carefully remove your large piece of terrazzo clay off of your work surface. The clay should be wrapped around the can’s edge and bottom, and the seam should be pressed together with your fingertips.
Cover Bottom of Can.
Your terrazzo clay should now completely cover your container, leaving only the bottom exposed. Starting with the scrap edges you cut from the main terrazzo clay rectangle’s edge, piece together the bottom covering.
The discarded bits can be joined using your roller. Place the can on top of this fresh piece of terrazzo clay and use your craft knife to carefully trace around the can’s bottom. Use your fingers to press this spherical piece of clay into the clay that is already covering the bottom of the can. Finally, poke the clay through the holes you made at the bottom of your can using a skewer, pencil, or other item of a similar nature.
Bake Terrazzo Planter.
Finally, set your planter on a baking sheet and bake it for 15 minutes every 1/4 inch of thickness in a 275° oven (your standard home oven would work nicely for this).
Your planter is finished as soon as it has baked and cooled. If you’d like, you can add a little glaze to give it a good finished appearance. My tiny pink and teal planter received a satin glaze, and I like how it turned out.
The only thing left to do is to fill your adorable tiny planters with plants at this point.
I’m now growing some tiny herb plants in my kitchen using my planters. Every time I see them, they make me grin.
What can I create with clay that dries by air?
Fun and beautiful projects to make with air dry clay: 10 ideas
- Mini Planters with Textured Succulents.
- Air-dry clay pinch pots using Crayola paint.
- DIY Air Dry Clay Planters for Succulent Pineapples.
- DIY Simple Clay Bowls
- Clay Diffuser Necklace created by hand.
- Simple Diffuser Keychains.
- Homemade Moon Phase Wall Art.
- Keychain made from a monstera leaf.
Gather Materials for Your Succulent Garden
You desire a succulent garden since it requires less upkeep, aren’t you? If you have the necessary resources, creating a succulent garden is also rather straightforward.
- You eagerly anticipate showing off your garden space.
- The succulents you prefer (but you’ll get those later).
- a mix of organic matter and coarse drainage elements, such as sand, grit, pumice, perlite, small gravel, or broken granite, that has good drainage.
- a transplanting trowel
- gloves for gardening.
Know your plant hardiness zone
Extreme temperatures can be harmful to some succulent plants. For information on which succulents will thrive in your region, see your plant hardiness zone. In your zone, some plants will thrive more than others.
Note: Despite the frigid conditions, some succulents may thrive in your yard since they are more cold-hardy than others. Sedums and sempervivums, like hens and chicks, are extremely cold-hardy ground coverings and do not require indoor storage during the winter.
Find the right spot for your succulent garden
You must first identify the ideal location for your succulent garden before making any plant purchases or getting too far ahead of yourself. You’ll have a better sense of which succulents will flourish in the space and how many to buy after you know the size and amount of sunlight the area will receive.
The needs for sun and shade will change for different succulents. Succulents vary in their preference for shade, sun exposure, and full sun.
While aloe, aeoniums, and agave demand lots of sunlight, snake plants, jade plants, and other similar species may take moderate shade.
Ensure proper soil drainage
Poor drainage will force these plants to spend too much time in wet, soggy soil, which will lead to root rot. Succulents can also grow in rock gardens and demand sandy, well-drained soil.
You might have to go through a process of trial and error and run a few percolation tests in order to get a soil mixture with good drainage. Organic matter, such as compost, and coarse drainage materials, such as sand, grit, pumice, perlite, small gravel, or broken granite, should be included in a healthy soil mixture.
Play with succulent arrangements
While your plants are still in their pots, you should arrange them in the garden. By putting them in place, you can see the finished product and make any necessary design modifications.
While they are still in their nursery pots, moving your plants around for a more appealing appearance will be much simpler than replanting them.
You’re ready to proceed to the following step and construct your succulent garden once you’ve put your plants in place and are satisfied with the garden layout.
Transplant your succulents
Succulents might be difficult to transplant, yet they are hardy plants. Succulents often bounce back quickly from minor injuries, such as a few torn roots or a plant that has been moved about a bit.
Tap or brush the roots of your succulent after carefully removing it from the nursery pot to get rid of the soil. The nursery potting mix might occasionally have poor drainage, which can cause the soil to stick to the roots and keep them from accessing the water they require. It’s acceptable if you need to break or cut some of the roots in order to remove the nursery potting soil.
Place your succulents into the soil after letting the roots dry out for approximately a day if they are moist.
Watering and caring for your succulents
Before watering your succulent garden, let the roots a day or two to recover and adapt.
When the earth is fully dry, only water. Examine the first few inches of soil. Skip the watering if the ground is wet. However, if the soil is dry, water heavily and then wait a little before watering again. Every week or two, give your succulent garden a drink.
Root rot can affect your plants if you keep them in wet soil. Since root rot is considerably harder for them to recover from than dryness, it is preferable to submerge than overwater.
Check the leaves, as a pro tip. The leaves of an overwatered succulent will often appear mushy, transparent, and squishy. The leaves of a submerged succulent will appear shriveled or wrinkled.
Does terracotta resemble clay?
The primary distinction between clay and terracotta is that whereas terracotta has a definite red and orange tint, clay comes in a variety of colors including white, grey, brown, deep red, and orange.
Fine hydrous aluminium silicate and other mineral particles are present in clay, an earthy substance. The term “terracotta” designates both the readily available earthenware clay with vibrant red and orange undertones and the pottery or other products manufactured from it.
Which is better for plants: clay or plastic containers?
Regarding the decision of whether to use clay or plastic pots for their plants, many gardeners have their own preferences. This post will outline the benefits and drawbacks of both types if you do not yet have a strong view.
The production of terra-cotta (unglazed clay) pots involves using a certain soil and firing them in kilns. Every flower and leaf color blends well with clay’s rusty brown hue.
For most plants, clay pots offer a healthy environment. Because clay is porous, air and moisture can enter the pot’s sides. The little roots towards the border of the soil ball make use of this moisture and air. Clay containers also function as a wick to draw moisture from the potting soil. Depending on how you water, this can be viewed as both a benefit and a drawback.
Overwatering is a common problem for gardeners, and clay will likely help their plants. Other gardeners are better off using plastic and waiting for the withering indication from their plants. Cacti, which require a dry, well-drained soil, favor clay containers as well.
Clay can be used outside and has benefits. The thick walls of clay pots shield plant roots from damagingly quick temperature changes. Additionally, they are rather heavy and do not topple over as readily as some plastic pots. Clay has the drawback of drying up rapidly. For plants that require a lot of moisture, like ferns, or when trying to sprout seeds, this can be an issue.
Clay also has a propensity to leave a white, crusty film on the pot’s exterior. This results from the movement of mineral salts dissolved in water out of the potting media and through the pot wall. While most gardeners find this layer unattractive, some find it appealing. If the salt deposits’ look is offensive, they can be washed off. Clay is easily shattered, which is a last drawback.
Pots made of plastic are robust, lightweight, and flexible. They match both interior and outside decor because they come in every color of the rainbow. Plastic is a great option for plants that love wetness or for gardeners who water seldom because it lacks the wicking effect of clay.
Plastic pots are considered safe for growing plants because they are constructed of inert materials. When the pot is no longer used, disposal is environmentally benign because many are constructed of recyclable plastic (unglazed clay pots are fully recyclable as well). Roots receive little to no protection from temperature changes from the thinner walls of plastic pots compared to their clay equivalents. In fact, black plastic can serve as a sun collector, heating the potting soil to levels that are harmful to plants.
If plants in dark-colored plastic containers wilt rapidly, make sure they are well-watered before relocating them to a cooler area where heat buildup shouldn’t be an issue. Plastic can become brittle and fade after exposure to sunlight. Many plastic pots made for outdoor use have ultraviolet light inhibitors applied to them to prevent fading and keep flexibility, lengthening the pot’s lifespan.
Make sure the pot you choose includes drainage holes in the bottom to avoid overwatering, whether it be made of clay or plastic.
This article was modified in March 2008 and published in the Sunday edition of the Lincoln Journal Star. Read the Terms of Use statement for details on reproducing this content and using any images or visuals.
Your online source for gardening and yard-related information in Lancaster County is University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension. Residents of southeast Nebraska can use the information on this website. In your location, it might or might not apply. Visit your neighborhood Extension office if you reside elsewhere than in southeast Nebraska.