How To Make A Succulent Topiary

Despite giving the impression of an evergreen tree, a succulent topiary causes visitors to pause. This container garden has a unique design: a moss-filled cone packed with attractive, low-water, and simple-to-care-for succulents. This topiary provides a novel and interesting approach to improve your gardening skills. Your plant selection includes a variety of vibrant, fleshy-leaved plants with eye-catching geometric shapes. For instance, the foliage color of rosette echeveria (Echeveria spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 811), ranges from pink to teal. Succulents are in high demand, thus providers are expanding their supply to meet your demands and fulfill your desires. Here’s how to make a succulent topiary on your own. You decide how traditional and modern should coexist.

What you’ll need

  • topiary cone frame
  • rust-resistant wire or chicken wire
  • Phragmites moss
  • ornamental container (opening should be slightly wider in diameter than the topiary base)
  • Printed towels (for containers with drainage holes)
  • Sand or gravel
  • wire cutters with a needle nose
  • luscious cuttings
  • floral pins in the shape of an u

Step 1: Fill the frame

A. Use chicken wire to line the wire frame or cover it in rustproof wire to provide tiny pockets that will support the succulents. Line the wire frame with a striking succulent, such as princess pine, or stuff it with moist sphagnum moss, a mixture of the moss and potting soil, or both (Crassula muscosa pseudolycopodiodes, Zones 911).

B. Add gravel or sand to the container to make a solid base. (If there is a drainage hole in the container, you should first plug it with paper towels to stop sand from oozing out.) To fix the stuffed topiary frame, stab its prongs into the sand.

Step 2: Add the succulents

A. Poke holes into the tightly packed moss using the sharp end of needle-nose wire cutters (or a metal rod).

B. Place the succulent cuttings in the holes and fasten with U-shaped florist pins; fill up any spaces with moss. Allow the succulents to finish the task. Everything that the plants require to survive is found in their leaves. They will quickly sprout roots that will firmly ensconce them in the moss. They will enter a state of stasis if they cannot find soil and are not nourished. They’ll drain their leaves if they don’t find any moisture.

Care and maintenance

To get the greatest effects, keep the moss damp. Water the topiary from the top or reach the top of the cone using a drip tube. The succulents won’t suffer even if the moss dries out for a week or less because they can draw on the moisture in their leaves.

Regarding these succulents, forget the fertilizer. Fertilizer will promote growth that might undermine the topiary’s precise geometry.

In all except the hottest climates, provide full sun. Protect your topiary in the Southwest during the summer by placing it where it will receive bright but indirect afternoon sunlight. Rotate the topiary approximately once each week to maintain uniform development if one side receives sunlight while the other does not.

In chilly or harsh weather, cover your topiary. If your region experiences frost, you can either protect the topiary inside or in a greenhouse, or you can plant hardy succulents like sedum (Sedumspp. and cvs., Zones 311) and sempervivum (Sempervivum spp. and cvs., Zones 411).

As the plants mature, prune them regularly. They might grow too long, so trim them back and fill in any gaps with the cuttings, or use them to make a new topiary or potted arrangement.

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How are succulents shaped?

You should prune the entire plant to accomplish this. Once a year in the spring, you can take out up to a third of its size. Make sure your cuts are close to a leaf or lateral branch while trimming all of the branch’s branches back to the desired size. To direct its new development is another reason you might wish to prune your succulent.

Which plant makes the greatest topiary?

Shrubs have dense foliage and short, thick leaves. These qualities make holly, laurel, boxwood, and privet plants good candidates for topiary. The boxwood is the most widely used among these options. This is particularly true for cultivars like the “Morris Dwarf,” which maintains its small form even when untrimmed. The Japanese holly (and its variations), for example, can be shaped and pruned similarly to a boxwood and has leaves that are quite similar to those of boxwoods. The larger leaves of the privet and the laurel are ideal for larger topiaries if little isn’t exactly the direction you’re seeking to go in.

What happens if you remove a succulent’s top?

A succulent cannot return to its original compact height and shape once it has been stretched out. But don’t worry!

Start by using good-quality scissors to trim off the succulent’s top (I adore this pair so much! Definitely worth every cent! Leave 2-3 leaves on the base for at least an inch or two. If you leave a few leaves on the base to absorb sunlight, the base will thrive.

I’ve seen bare stems produce new offshoots, but it takes a lot longer than when I leave a few leaves on the stem. You can trim some of the stem to shorten the cutting if the cutting (the top portion you cut off) is too long for your taste.

Allow the base and the cutting to dry for a few days. You can plant the cutting in soil and start watering it once the cut end has calloused over (totally dried out and appears “scabbed”).

Cuttings do, in my experience, require a little bit more frequent watering than a fully rooted plant. To prevent the stem from becoming too soggy and rotting, use a soil that has a really good drainage system. Here is more information on how to grow succulents from cuttings.

Within a few days, maybe, but most probably within two to three weeks, the cutting should begin to give off roots. You should reduce watering as the roots take hold in order to put the plant on the same “schedule” as fully rooted plants.

Within a few weeks, the base, or original plant, will begin to produce additional offshoots. This plant can still be taken care of in the same manner as before the cut.

The leaves you initially left on the base plant can eventually wilt or drop off. Although highly common, this won’t always occur.

But if they do come off, don’t panic! Without the “parent leaves,” the young rosettes will still be able to develop.

How should a succulent that is too tall be trimmed?

Succulents that become too tall should be trimmed with a sharp knife to prevent the cut from being squished. Since most succulents are hardy, you can also use (pruning) scissors if you don’t have one on hand. To minimize the incision and any potential dirt accumulation, make the cut as horizontally as you can. A little hurt is preferable to a major one.

Cut a few millimeters below a node because there are growth factors and assimilates that are essential for the wound to heal and for the missing organs to quickly regenerate accumulate there. When looking at the succulent from above, behead it so that you have a rounded rosette.

Why is my succulent gaining height rather than width?

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Your succulent does it appear different? Are you perplexed as to why it is becoming so stretched-out, tall, and leggy?

Your succulent is experiencing etiolation if it is expanding vertically rather than horizontally. Your succulent needs more light, to put it simply.

Sadly, damage that has already been done cannot be undone. But it can bounce back. Your stretched succulent can be propagated, which will result in more plants. Win!

Let’s examine this stretched Crassula perforata more closely. Find out what caused this to happen and how to solve it.

Visit How to Grow Succulents Indoors to catch up on general care for succulents.

How long is kokedama good for?

In essence, kokedamas are live plants in soil that are covered in moss and twine. That is the condensed form…

Around 400 years ago, Japan is where the Kokedama art form first emerged. Kokedama, which means “Moss Ball” in its literal translation, describes exactly what it is. Originally, bonsai trees were grown in these.

We gently layer a premium soil mixture around the root base after mixing it. We always make sure there is enough dirt so the plant’s roots may spread out and flourish. Sphagnum moss is then utilized to cover the soil ball. This aids in containing the soil and maintaining moisture. The moss and dirt are then meticulously wrapped in layers of high-quality jute rope to create an effective pattern that holds everything together.

I hand-wrap each of our kokedamas, so you could say I’m the machine. Each kokedama is customized specifically for you!

We don’t produce in bulk. Then, each kokedama you order is prepared “new” specifically for you! This enables our hands and eyes to create a superior, wholly original, and one-of-a-kind product for you.

Depending on the plant and size of the kokedama we are wrapping, the process can take anywhere from 15-20 minutes for our micro and small sizes, all the way up to an hour for our jumbos.

To assist you keep your new plant companion alive, every plant and kokedama comes with complete care instructions tailored specifically to your plant. However, there are a few things to bear in mind.

  • Position: Think carefully about where you want to put your plant. Not all plants will be suitable for all positions. A fern would not do well, for instance, at a window that receives full sun for the majority of the day. We might recommend a cactus or a succulent.
  • How well do you care for different types of plants? Be truthful! There are many fickle plants, but on the other hand, there are also many resilient choices that benefit from neglect. We would be delighted to assist you in making your decision. Please get in touch so we can help you make a decision!
  • Simply immerse the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes just below the top of the string ball to hydrate it. This can be carried out in a bowl, bucket, or sink. It might need to be held under at first.

Pulling back the moss at the kokedama’s aperture to expose the soil is another method of watering. As you would with a conventional pot plant, gently push the plant’s foliage back and water from the top of your kokedama. Although it isn’t as effective as soaking, doing this will help your moss and twine last longer. I advise switching between this approach and the soaking approach.

Squeezing out the excess water after it has soaked is one of the important procedures in the care recommendations. By doing this, you can avoid your plant becoming water-logged and a number of diseases like root rot. This will help your plant stay healthy and develop, as well as increase the moss and twine’s lifespan.

Too much water is one of the worst enemies of indoor plants. Water your plants less rather than more for the majority of them. Ferns and other plant species that like higher humidity will need a regular gentle misting of water. Every day, and more often on warm days, I perform mine.

The care instructions and information above are merely a guide; every effort will be made to give you a plant that is healthy and happy. Every house is unique, and only you are familiar with it. Sunlight, humidity, temperature, and air quality will vary from home to home. Your plant’s growth and health will be impacted by each of these elements. In order to effectively care for your plant in your house, we advise conducting some study to learn about its requirements. Watch your plant; it will soon let you know if it is content or not.

Get in contact if you need assistance with any suggestions or care guidance. We are always pleased to assist.

The kokedama was made from natural, biodegradable materials. i.e., they will eventually degrade and change color. This is expected and inevitable.

  • Avoid crossing water. We advise soaking the kokedama for 10 to 15 minutes. Longer is acceptable and won’t harm the plant, but it may shorten the moss and twine’s lifespan.
  • After soaking, gently squeeze the moss ball to expel any remaining water from the kokedama. The moss and twine will dry more quickly as a result.
  • To help the moss and twine dry out, make sure there is excellent airflow around the kokedama.
  • Spraying the soil at the top of the kokedama alternates with soaking it.

Your kokedama shouldn’t typically need a re-wrapping or re-potting for another 1-2 years. The soil will need to be refreshed at this point regardless!

Everything is good, yes! If your plant is taken care of, it will ultimately outgrow its kokedama, just like all happy, healthy, growing plants.

Some plants thrive when their roots are constrained in constrained places. The plant will survive for a while in good condition, but this will probably limit their growth.

The kokedama will eventually be outgrown by other plants, but it will take time. These may endure for one year or more. We can provide you with further information about the specific plant you chose.

Yes! This is entirely typical. The natural, biodegradable materials we employ are of this kind. The twine will initially appear to be discolored, and soon it will start to fray. depends on how well the kokedama has been cared for, usually between 1-2 years.

The greatest approach to make sure your kokedama doesn’t last long is to overwater it. This includes failing to gently squeeze out the surplus water in accordance with the care manual.

When the moss and twine fall off, it’s actually an excellent time to re-pot or re-wrap your plant, just like you would with a conventional houseplant.

We provide a re-wrap or up-size service to provide your plant new soil and a fresh moss and twine wrap for a modest cost.

Your plant will benefit greatly from this because this is typically the time when plants need to be re-potted and given new soil.

As was already indicated, your kokedama will typically last between one and two years, which is still a lot longer than a bouquet of flowers! But if all goes as planned, the plant will last forever.