There are specific spider mite therapies available to treat and get rid of spider mites on succulents.
Insecticidal Soap Spray
Sprays made of insecticidal soap are among the best ways to get rid of spider mites on succulent plants.
Making your own pesticide soap spray at home assures that you only use natural pest control agents that won’t hurt your plants.
In a container with five gallons of water, combine water and mild dishwashing liquid to create an organic spider mite treatment (note: do NOT use anti-bacterial dishwashing solutions).
Use a spray bottle to immediately treat spider mites and other contaminated parts of your succulent plants with this spider mite control solution until it drips from the plant leaves.
Neem Oil Spider Mite Treatment
A natural remedy for spider mites on succulents is neem oil spider mite therapy.
Natural elements in this pesticide-free spider mite treatment make it safe for family members and pets while also effectively controlling spider mites.
It deeply penetrates the leaf surface, killing eggs, nymphs, adults, and even their webs!
Neem oil should not, however, come into contact with the eyes, therefore you must use caution when using it on the spider mites nearby.
Flush Them Out with Water
Spraying spider plant water on succulents will drown out any spider mites that are there.
As soon as you find these pests, use a spider mite control spray and wash the mites off your plants to prevent further harm to the leaves of your developing succulent plants.
For prompt relief, blast spider mites with a powerful stream of water from a showerhead or hose pipe.
Alcohol Spider Mite Treatment
Simply fill a spray bottle with with rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, then thoroughly spray the plant, making care to cover both leaf undersides.
Make sure plants are not exposed to direct sunlight when employing this spider mite control method for efficient spider mite elimination.
Diatomaceous Earth for Spider Mites
Effective spider mite removal for succulents is possible with diatomaceous earth treatments.
The non-toxic and efficient treatment for spider mites in most plants is diatomaceous earth!
A thin amount (about two teaspoons) should be scattered around the base of the plant, especially under the leaves where you frequently see these pests.
This diatom dirt works by progressively dehydrating them while not damaging any living plant parts by scratching their exoskeletons!
However, be careful not to allow the powder come into touch with water, as this will reduce the powder’s efficacy as a pesticide.
Beneficial Insects to Control Spider Mites
For the prevention of spider mites on succulents, utilize beneficial insects like ladybugs, green lacewings, and praying mantis.
These naturally occurring predators are ideal companions for any garden because they prey exclusively on spider mites.
You can cultivate flowers and herbs like dill, fennel, clover, or other flowering plants that are reputed to be spider mite-repellent to draw spider mite predators.
Mouthwash Spider Mite Treatment
Treatment for spider mites using mouthwash is a successful pest management strategy for succulents.
To get rid of spider mites without harming any plants, simply combine one part mouthwash with nine parts water and spray the mixture straight on the pests!
Chemicals in mouthwash interrupt the spider mites’ digestive processes or rapidly dehydrate them, killing them.
However, when using any spider mite treatment, be mindful to avoid disturbing or placing these plants in direct sunlight!
What do mites on succulents look like?
Spider mites harm succulents and cacti alike by draining the juices from the plants. Webbing and tiny brown dots on the new growth of succulent plants are the first indicators that you have spider mites. These small “insects” are more closely linked to spiders than to actual insects. When seen with the naked eye, they resemble dust.
In reality, red spider mites are reddish-brown in color, and they like hot, dry environments. Misting and above watering might lessen their occurrence since they don’t like dampness. The innocuous, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite, should not be mistaken with these red spider mites. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using a miticide to completely get rid of these mites from the plant. Phytoseiulus persimilis is another predator that can be utilized as a biological control. In addition to needing temperatures above 70 F (21 C), this predator finds it challenging to keep a balance between prey and predator.
There are other pests besides spider mites that harm succulent plants. Eriophyid mites are those that feed on aloe and also affect other species including Haworthia and Gasteri. These mites have two pairs of legs as opposed to the four sets of legs found on spider mites.
The poison that this mite injects into the tissue causes galling or other aberrant development as it eats. Aloe succulent mite damage is irreparable in aloe plants, and the plant needs to be thrown out. To avoid contaminating other plants, put sick plants in a garbage bag or burn them. Use a miticide on the plant as directed by the manufacturer if the infestation is not severe. Aloes that can withstand freezing temperatures can be exposed to them to kill the mites.
The two-spotted mite, another type of mite, prefers to eat yucca. This mite appears pink, yellow-green, or red under a microscope, with two dark dots on its body. They lack wings and antennae but have eight legs. Tan or gray stippling of foliage is a surefire marker of the two-spotted mite’s existence.
A fine webbing can once more be observed on the undersides of leaves as the infestation gets worse. The plant will perish if the infestation is bad. Mite population growth can be slowed down by using insecticidal soap and spraying the plant area to maintain a high humidity level. Also helpful will be chemical control using items referred to as acaricides.
Check the succulents periodically so you can take action before the infestation gets out of control if you want to really get a handle on the mites. Use the right amount of water, fertilizer, and sunshine to keep the plants healthy. Remove any succulent sections that are dead or dying, and discard of seriously ill plants right away.
What may be used as an insect spray on succulents?
When you detect mealy bugs on your succulents, the first thing you should do is quarantine the affected plants and relocate them away from other plants. Check the healthy plants for any indications of mealy bugs.
After that, be ready to clean your contaminated plants by removing them from the pot and giving them a thorough rinsing under running water. In hot, soapy water, wash the pot. Replant with fresh soil after allowing the plant and pot to dry out. Old dirt should be disposed of in the regular trash, not the green bin.
If you don’t instantly have ready-mix succulent soil at your home, you can put the soil in an oven-safe container covered with foil and bake it for at least 30 minutes, or until the soil reaches 180 degrees Fahrenheit. After letting cool, plant again. Since there may still be mealy bug eggs in the old soil, we advise getting new soil.
Now let’s get to the most crucial step: mealybug elimination. Pesticides made of chemicals are generally the first thing that springs to mind. We don’t advise using them, though, as some of them can be highly damaging to succulents. Here are some secure choices we’ve tried and think are really helpful:
Neem oil and soap mixtures or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) come first. The cheapest and most efficient approach for controlling aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites is to use 75 percent rubbing alcohol. Simply give the succulents a good spraying and leave them. The bug will start to turn brown, which indicates that it is dead. The plants won’t be harmed by the alcohol because it will entirely evaporate in a short period of time. Perform this each week until you no longer notice any bugs.  
Another secure insecticide that can be applied directly to outbreaks is neem oil. It has the ability to instantly eliminate all stages of mealybugs. Neem oil at a concentration of 5% in water is combined with a few drops of soap before being sprayed all over your succulent. Keep in mind that using concentrated neem oil could burn your succulents.  
If you don’t have a spray bottle, you might paint-brush any area where mealy bugs are present. After a few hours, water the plant to remove the dead insects. You can readily find rubbing alcohol and neem oil online or at your neighborhood pharmacy. To prevent water stains or sunburn when using neem oil or rubbing alcohol, be sure to keep the plant out of direct sunlight. For a few days, keep them away from the window and direct sunshine.  
If there are still some mealy bugs on your plant, check it again and continue the procedure for a few days. Then, as a preventative step, spray once again after a week. Neem oil can also be sprayed into the soil to eliminate any bugs or eggs that may be lurking there. Put the plant back in its original location and continue inspecting every three weeks if mealy bugs don’t recur after thoroughly checking and spraying for a few weeks.
Neem oil and rubbing alcohol are relatively secure, but there is a danger they could harm your succulent.
So we advise utilizing ladybugs as another natural cure. Yes, you heard correctly! These adorable ladybugs are all-natural enemies of mealybug and other troublesome pests. However, we advise utilizing ladybugs only as a preventative measure and when your plant is in the early stages of infestation.
Mealy Bugs
These are among the most prevalent pests of cactus and succulents. They are small, elliptical insects that are gray or light brown in appearance and around 2-3 millimeters long. They create a waxy or mealy white substance that gives them their name. The white cottony stuff you notice on your plants is a warning indication that mealybugs are present.
Most likely, you’ll see this white fluffy stuff before you see any bugs. These insects produce honeydew or another sugary secretion that can encourage the formation of mold and increase the likelihood of bacterial and fungal diseases. They are typically visible on the leaves’ undersides and between the plant’s joints. They are quickly disseminated from one plant to another.
Solution: Apply rubbing alcohol-dipped cotton swabs or Q-tips directly to the insects and wherever you observe the fluffy, white stuff. This procedure will kill the bugs without harming your plant.
You can also use a spray bottle and apply rubbing alcohol directly on the bugs and white fluff instead of dabbing it on them. Some folks prefer to mix water and alcohol that is roughly half strength.
You can also use soap, such as dish soap diluted in water, as an alternative to alcohol. Try adding a few drops of soap to two cups of water, then shaking to thoroughly combine. Spray directly where you detect mealybugs and white fluff where it is impacted.
Unfortunately, mealy bugs are difficult to eradicate, and it could take several treatments to do so. If necessary, carry out the procedure once weekly until the issue is resolved. Mealy bugs can spread from plant to plant, so isolate the diseased plant to protect your other plants.
The roots may also be home to tiny insects. You must cure the plant and detach it from the pot in order to eradicate them from the roots. Wash the bugs from the roots and remove the soil.
Use soapy water or rubbing alcohol to mist the plant. Some people prefer to mix water and alcohol at a strength that is around half. Repot the plant in new, well-draining potting soil made for cacti and succulents after letting it dry out for a few days.
Scale
Scales come in over a thousand different species with a wide range of colors, sizes, and forms. The armored scale and the soft scale insects are the two types of scales that frequently attack succulent plants. You can have a scale issue if your succulent develops tiny, brown lumps. Succulents’ sap is a favorite food item for these insects, which harms the plants and increases their susceptibility to disease.
Solution: Hand-pick or hose-off any visible insects from your plant that you see. Any visible insects on your plants should be scraped off or sprayed away. You can physically remove them from your plant if the scale issue is not too severe. Scales can be handled in a manner similar to mealybugs. Apply rubbing alcohol-dipped cotton swabs or Q-tips straight to the insects.
As an alternative, you can spray rubbing alcohol straight into the bugs in place of dabbing them with alcohol. Some folks prefer to mix water and alcohol that is roughly half strength.
Scales can sometimes be successfully treated with neem oil. Neem oil might not be sufficient if the infestation is severe. Neem oil should be diluted in 8 cups of water by adding 1 spoonful (15 ml). Infested areas as well as the undersides of the leaves should be sprayed with the remedy. Neem oil should only be used at night to avoid burning your plant from solar damage.
Unfortunately, these bugs are difficult to get rid of, and it could require several treatments. If necessary, carry out the procedure once weekly until the issue is resolved. To prevent contaminating your other plants, isolate the sick plant.
In order to treat the plant, you must take it out of the container if the scale infestation is severe. Wash the bugs from the roots and remove the soil. Use soapy water or rubbing alcohol to mist the plant. Some people prefer to mix water and alcohol at a strength that is around half.
Repot the plant in new, well-draining potting soil made for cacti and succulents after letting it dry out for a few days. Keep the diseased plant separate from your other plants while treating it to stop the infestation from spreading to others.
Aphids (Greenflies or Plant Lice)
These are little, fatty, teardrop-shaped insects. They are available in many hues, with green being the most prevalent. They can be seen sucking on leaves or flowers at the ends of stems and are frequently numerous.
As they feed, they also exhale a lot of honeydew, a sugary white material. This sweet material may promote the development of black sooty mold. Aphids feed on the plant’s tissues, resulting in misshaped leaves and limited growth of the plant.
Solution: Spraying the plant with water pressure and aphids may be able to be physically removed from the plant by doing this. The plant can also be treated with a solution of soapy water. Mix thoroughly after adding a few drops of soap to the water. Spray the undersides of the leaves and the infected areas.
The soapy water might also have vegetable oil added to it. Mix well 1 to 2 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil with a few drops of soap, such as dish soap. If you detect bugs, spray the infestation there.
Some people have found success using neem oil to treat aphids. Neem oil should be diluted in 8 cups of water by adding 1 spoonful (15 ml). Infested areas as well as the undersides of the leaves should be sprayed with the remedy. Neem oil should only be used at night to avoid burning your plant from solar damage.
Once a week, repeat the therapy as necessary until the issue is solved.
Spider Mites
Because they are so little, spider mites frequently go unnoticed for a very long time. Red is the most popular hue. Spider mites adore sucking on the succulents’ delicious sap.
As the mites wreak havoc on the plant, an infected plant initially loses color and might eventually turn nearly white or silvery. Pay great attention to nearby plants to spot infestations as soon as possible. Typically, spider webbing and little brown spots on your plant are the first indicators of spider mites.
Treatment: You can treat spider mites in the same manner as mealybugs. Apply rubbing alcohol-dipped cotton swabs or Q-tips immediately to the insects and wherever you observe the white, cottony substance. This procedure will kill the bugs without harming your plant.
You can also use soap, such as dish soap diluted in water, as an alternative to alcohol. Consider adding a couple of drops of soap to a cup of water and shaking to combine. Directly apply spray to the afflicted areas.
To solve the issue, several treatments will be necessary. Once a week or as necessary, repeat the procedure until the issue is resolved. To prevent contaminating your other plants, isolate the sick plant.
You may wish to repot your entire plant if you think the infection is worse. Take the plant out of the pot, remove the soil, and wash the bugs away. Use soapy water or rubbing alcohol to mist the plant. Some people prefer to mix water and alcohol at a strength that is around half. Repot the plant in new, well-draining potting soil made for cacti and succulents after letting it dry out for a few days.
Whiteflies
These are frequently found with succulent leafy plants. They are tiny, white, flying insects that can be challenging to manage and have a high rate of reproduction. When an infected plant is shook, whiteflies can be seen flying from the bottom of the leaves. These insects, like aphids, create honeydew all over your plant, which encourages the development of sooty mold.
Solution: Use water to spray the flies off in order to get rid of some of them. Spray some water and rubbing alcohol that has been diluted to half strength on the plant. You can also use soap, such as dish soap diluted in water, as an alternative to alcohol.
Consider adding a couple of drops of soap to a cup of water and shaking to combine. Directly apply spray to the afflicted areas. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
Fungus Gnats
Perhaps one of the most frequent pests of indoor plants is the fungus gnat. Despite not being as damaging to your plants as other pests, fungus gnats can still be difficult to manage and get rid of. They have a buglike appearance. The gnats will be drawn to the soil and begin breeding if you overwater your succulents or if it is always damp.
Solution: Moisture attracts fungus gnats. Make careful to water your succulents in moderation and to let the soil dry out in between waterings. Cacti and succulents require soil that drains well. If your plants are growing in the incorrect medium, repot them in a well-draining potting mix made for cacti and succulents to avoid soggy soil.
Sprinkle cinnamon powder over your potting soil for a natural cure. Due to its inherent anti-fungal characteristics, cinnamon may be able to aid. You may also make use of one of those sticky yellow insect pads. The fungus gnats adhere to these pads, which could aid in reducing the issue while you address the root of the infestation.
Ants
Since ants are present all over the natural world, shouldn’t they be safe around succulents? A single or two ants here and there are acceptable, but if you notice an army of ants on your plant, it’s likely that you also have scales, aphids, or mealybugs. Because these insects secrete honeydew or other sweet substances that ants adore, ants raise these insects as food.
Spray the plant with insecticidal soap or soapy water as a cure. About once every week, repeat as necessary. To deter ants from your plant, you can also place ant baits close by. Check the plant for any other insects that might be luring ants there and deal with them as necessary. Soapy water should frequently solve the issue.
You might wish to repot your entire plant if the infestation is severe. Take the plant out of the pot, remove the soil, and wash the bugs away. Use soapy water or rubbing alcohol to mist the plant.
Some people prefer to mix water and alcohol at a strength that is around half. Repot the plant in new, well-draining potting soil made for cacti and succulents after letting it dry out for a few days.