All you need is an empty bottle, some tiny succulent plants, and well-drained potting soil. Purchase a bottle that has been precut or cut an opening into the side of the bottle.
To add more intrigue, spread gravel on the bottom. Remember that soil can become water logged and cause root rot once too much water enters the gravel base. So, water with caution.
Fill with a cactus and succulent mix or well-drained potting soil. For drainage, my colleagues who wrote Planting Designs for Cactus and Succulents suggest adding dark horticultural sand to a potting mixture without perlite. A more aesthetically pleasant display will result.
Wine bottle gardens should be planted and supported to prevent rolling off the table. To make a cradle for your bottle garden, one straightforward technique employs two corks and sturdy wire.
A little more information: Planting Designs for Cactus and Succulents by Sharon Asakawa and John Bagnasco with Shaun Buchanan and Robyn Foreman contains further suggestions for displaying cactus and succulents.
Can plastic pots be used to plant succulents?
Which is preferable for succulents and cacti: plastic or clay pots?
This argument has been around for a while—at least since the late 1960s, when I first developed an interest in indoor plants. At the time, I was informed that terracotta pots (unglazed pottery) were the ideal container for succulents and cactus, which are a type of succulent “more air to reach the roots since they could breathe (were porous). Additionally, they lost water more quickly due to their porosity, and succulents didn’t like to sit in soggy ground. It made logical at the time, and there is some truth to it, but…
In actuality, plastic pots work just as well for growing succulents as clay ones. And given how costly terracotta pots are right now, I predict that most succulent lovers use plastic more frequently than clay.
That “As long as you use a potting mix with lots of air gaps, it doesn’t matter that terracotta pots dry out more quickly than plastic ones (potting mixes have significantly improved in aeration since the 1960s!) and water your plants appropriately by not watering again until the growth medium is completely dry. If the plant is carefully placed in well-aerated soil, the difference in drying times between soil in terracotta pots and soil in regular pots will probably be negligible.
But terracotta pots would be a better option if you tend to overwater (and ideally, you’d learn not to do so!). That would also be true if you frequently place your succulents in dim areas where they don’t get enough light, develop slowly, and consume little water. Nevertheless, you shouldn’t be mistreating your succulents in this manner. (They enjoy lots of light in general!)
The implication of the foregoing is that you should probably choose plastic if you have a tendency to forget to water. That might only prolong the life of a highly drought-stressed succulent by one or two days.
Of course, you can use either one if you’re just a typical houseplant owner who pays attention to watering requirements.
What Commercial Succulent Growers Do
The fact that commercial succulent nurseries have mostly converted to plastic from terracotta pots, which they formerly used almost exclusively, is revealing, in my opinion. Now, that’s primarily due to cost—terracotta pots are just so dear! However, they would still be using clay pots if they were truly necessary for maintaining the health of succulents.
In fact, it’s fashionable right now for succulent nurseries to grow succulents in flimsy, inexpensive plastic containers before slipping them into more decorative cachepots to boost sales. When watering these, all you need to do is take the “grow pot” out of the cachepot 10 to 30 minutes after watering and drain any extra water.
Other Pros and Cons of Terracotta and Plastic
- Even though terracotta pots are heavier and may support taller succulents better, a plastic pot might just as easily be inserted into a large cachepot.
- As already stated, terracotta is pricey. There are some plastic pots that are, but you can easily locate affordable ones.
- Plastic pots can be considered pollutants unless they are recycled or reused, which I do and believe most gardeners do (ditto).
- Over time, the outside surface of terracotta pots frequently acquires pale mineral stains where water once permeated and evaporated. However, some designers consider it elegant and even refer to it as patina, so that drawback might be perceived as a benefit.
- There are practically no limits to the shapes, sizes, textures, and colors of plastic pots. Even some of them precisely mimic clay! Terracotta has a lot more limitations. Although there is a considerable variety of sizes and forms, and it could potentially be available in a wide range of colors (owing to various clays as well as dyes and stains), terracotta typically only appears in the well-known brownish-orange shade that we have come to associate with it.
- Most polymers are less brittle and less likely to break than terracotta. However, I do not advise testing this by dumping any kind of pot from a significant height.
- Plastics can withstand frigid temperatures better, and some of them are really thought to be weatherproof. Terracotta pots should never be left outside in subfreezing temperatures since they may fracture. Still, if you don’t leave a pot outside in subfreezing temperatures, it will generally last longer.
- In the past, terracotta pot shards that could be found by (hopefully accidently) shattering terracotta pots were frequently utilized as a drainage layer in pots. But drainage layers have long been frowned upon in horticulture, and as a result, most terracotta fragments today probably end up in the trash.
- Because they evaporate moisture (and evaporation has a cooling effect), and because they are rather thick, terracotta pots shield plant roots from heat better than most plastic ones. When put in direct sunlight, black and other dark colors of plastic can dramatically heat up the soil in a pot. However, if heat is a concern, you could achieve the same appearance by encasing the pot in a pale-colored cache-pot or utilizing white and other light-colored plastics.
However, as long as it includes a drainage hole, it usually doesn’t matter what kind of pot you choose to grow your succulents.
Can succulents be grown solely in water?
The end of a succulent grown in water should float just above the surface rather than actually entering the water. Pick a vase, jar, or other holding device for the plant. To ensure sure the stem is not in contact with the water, it is also helpful to be able to see through the container. Wait for roots to form by setting the container in a well-lit location. It can take 10 days to a few weeks to complete.
water with hydrogen peroxide added. This may discourage pests that are drawn to wetness, like fungus gnats. It gives the air in the
How can you root succulents the quickest?
So, you may be wondering how to quickly propagate succulents. I can relate to both the joy and frustration of watching a new plant develop.
Since I’ve been growing succulents for a few years, allow me to give you some advice on how to quickly propagate your succulents as well as some alternative techniques you can try.
Stem cuttings are the simplest and quickest method of propagating succulents. If the plant is a fresh cutting from the mother plant, it will already have a strong foundation from which to build its new root system. Another instance is when you cut off the succulent’s top portion because it has been stretched out significantly (etiolation), this stem will likewise give rise to numerous new plantlings (pups). Due to its existing root system, the plant will also have a great possibility of producing more offset and growing quickly.
Always check that the stem cuttings are a respectable size for the plant’s typical size.
According to my experience, I always want to make sure that the succulent has a lot of nodes where the leaves attach to the stem and a lot of leaves in its stem. Once the succulent is put in soil, these stem nodes will form roots, and the leaves will serve as the succulent’s water source until its root system matures.
Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?
Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.
Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.
According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.
I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.
According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.
The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.
As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.
The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.
The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.
I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.
I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).
Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.
I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.
The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.
I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.
The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.
Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.
Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.
Update:
Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?
A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:
acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.
OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.
Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.
Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.
To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.
Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.
Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.
Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)
Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.
occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.
Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunshine to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunshine and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.
Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.
Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.
My opinions on the spread of water:
I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.
The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.
Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.
According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.
About
You’ve come to the correct location if, like me, you enjoy succulents. This website is a repository for the succulent-growing knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years and am still learning. Although I am by no means an expert on succulents and cacti, this website was created as a result of years of hard work, love, and many mistakes and learning opportunities.