How To Grow Dragon Fruit Cactus From Cuttings

Dragon fruit may be propagated from either seeds or stem cuttings. Since it might take up to 7 years from seed to fruit, seed propagation is less dependable and calls for patience. Stem cuttings are a more frequent method for propagation.

Obtain a 6- to 15-inch (12-38 cm) stem section to grow stem cuttings. Make a slanted cut at the stem’s base, then apply a fungicide. In a dry, shaded place, let the treated stem section to dry for 7-8 days. After that, plant the cutting immediately in the garden or in a container filled with well-draining soil after dipping it in a root hormone. Cuttings will develop quickly and may start to bear fruit 6 to 9 months after being propagated.

Scoop out the seeds by cutting a dragon fruit in half if you’d rather try your luck growing plants from seeds. Put the pulp and the seeds in a bucket of water and separate them. The seeds should be left to dry overnight on a wet paper towel.

Fill a tray with seed starting mix the following day. Sprinkle the medium over the seeds, barely covering them, and then scatter the seeds on top of the soil’s surface. Spray with a spray bottle to moisten, then wrap in plastic. Maintain soil moisture. In 15 to 30 days, germination should take place.

Remove the plastic wrap from the seeds once they have sprouted, and then move them into bigger pots.

How long do cuttings of dragonfruit take to take root?

Let me start by stating that I lack expertise. I only began my path of expanding DF in 2019, but since then, I’ve learned a lot. Plants for dragon fruit can be rooted in a variety of ways. I’ll outline the two typical techniques for rooting them on this page. I hope you can gain some insight from my personal experience, which will undoubtedly differ from yours. Another discovery is that during the winter and fall seasons, none of my 30+ dragon fruit cuttings rooted. In the Spring, they appeared to begin to root. I could have brought them inside, built a greenhouse, placed them on heating pads or growth lights, but I didn’t. The ideal growth environment is the main lesson to be learned. I think the weather or the climate is more important. All of the trials I conducted from spring through summer rooted successfully.

To be clear, there isn’t just one path that is conclusive, certain, and quick. Similar to life, there are numerous paths to success. Now that it is over, let’s get started!


Prepare your cuttings of dragon fruit. It might be:

  • Cut segment (my preferred choice)
  • Tapered
  • sliced flatly.

Make sure they are dry—really dry—as they will all start to root. Allow them to dry for a week in the sun or shade, outside. Make sure there is no direct sunlight. Segment cuts are less likely to decay; the middle core will still produce roots. My second preference is to use a tapered cut if you are unable to obtain a segment. I believe the flat cut has the most risk of developing rot along the edges, necessitating deeper planting.

Method 1: Soil Rooting

I use potting soil, in-ground garden dirt, and cactus soil. For the purposes of rooting, it makes no difference; they’ll be OK. Put them somewhere bright, but out of direct sunshine. use a bucket, pot, or planter with holes. Just let them to stand in soil that is only 1 inch deep. Avoid placing them too deeply. I’m done now. Two times a week, lightly water the soil to keep it moist. Remember that they have no roots, so dousing them in water is pointless. Whenever it roots, gradually expose it to sunshine.

Before planting them, you might optionally sprinkle some rooting powder on the end. They will root without the powder, thus there is no way to test its effectiveness. However, it might be helpful.

Once every week, look for roots. Thug a little upwards to check. The presence of resistance and the movement of the soil are signs that the plant has already rooted. To give them more time to grow roots, I’d prefer to wait another two weeks before transferring them to a larger pot.

Use a clear or translucent pot to see the roots without having to uproot them. Save those plastic to-go containers now, but don’t forget to add holes on the bottom.

Method 2: Water Rooting

Leave them in a cup or pail of water when water rooting. Put them somewhere bright, but out of direct sunshine. There are factors to think about:

  • If the water becomes sticky or muddy, replace it.
  • The ideal water level should be high enough to completely cover the bottom.
  • Water may become dry and require refilling.
  • I have no idea what it is, but occasionally orange-colored material may appear on the bottom end.
  • It’s best to cut it out and start over if it splits, rots, or becomes soft and mushy.

By gazing at them from the top, removing them, or from the side if you’re using a transparent cup, you may see them develop roots. When it has rooted and been transplanted to soil, gradually expose it to sunshine.

Other methods:

Use perlite in place of dirt. Just perlite—no soil, no water. I haven’t used this approach yet. I would be happy to try rooting using perlites if anyone wanted to contribute any.

Which is faster?

You’ll notice roots in both the dirt and the water in around two to three weeks. The quickest root I’ve ever grown in soil and water took approximately a week, but that’s quite unusual. Some individuals water roots more frequently than soil, but you must move water-rooted cuttings to soil, where it will take some time to adapt. Sometimes water roots causes the stem to decay, forcing you to start over.


Do both if you are in a position to make a lot of cuttings. If not, I’d suggest using earth as a substitute. Because of the five additional things to watch out for in water roots, as well as the fact that sometimes critters drown in water (trust me, it’s not a nice sight, and it wasn’t an insect), I prefer soil more. Some claim that as you transition from water to soil, roots are stressed, but I am unable to verify this. However, if you’re going to finally plant them in soil, why not do it there? I wish to share what I have learned after going through a lot of successful roots, failures, trials, and blunders.

Again, there is no ONE single, surefire, and quickest way to root, so select the strategy that suits you the best. Happy gardening!

Can you root dragon fruit cuttings in water?

Dragon fruit is an epiphytic plant, as is well known. The cutting can also be rooted in water. It is the simplest and quickest way to root the cutting, but you must be a bit cunning. With this technique, rooting will begin within a week without the use of rooting hormone.

Take the cuttings from the mother plant first, then let them calluse for six to eight days. We can root the cutting in water once the cut wounds have healed.

Take a cup or small bucket, depending on what you have, and add a little water to the bottom (few inches). Put the calloused cutting inside of it. Every one or two days, change the water and maintain it clean. The roots will not occur in water that has bacteria in it.

Use a seedling heating mat if the weather is cool. It is particularly challenging to root during the colder months. For rooting, it occasionally takes four to six. In this instance, the heating pad will give the cutting area more warmth and raise the water’s temperature by 5 to 100C above the ambient temperature.

How deep do dragon fruit roots go?

Epiphytic roots from the dragon fruit plant don’t get very deep. Dragon fruit roots can only penetrate as deep as 20 to 30 cm at first. Later, the brown stem penetrates the ground between 45 and 60 cm deep.

What do you do with dragon fruit aerial roots? Cut them off or let them grow?

Some of the aerial roots are produced by well-established dragon fruits. These aerial roots grow and make an effort to get to the soil. These aerial roots grow twice as quickly as regular roots.

You can cut them off if you don’t like them, but I prefer to benefit from them.

We can benefit from these aerial roots in a limited number of ways. As a root cutting, we can develop them into the new plant. I don’t like root cutting because it takes a lot of time to grow fresh dragon fruit. They occasionally act as a support for the stem hanging in the trellis.

The plant need extra fertilizer to produce flowers when it is about to flower. Spraying phosphatic and potassic fertilizer onto the aerial root’s leaves at this time aids in boosting flower bud initiation. Roots that are aerial absorb nutrients more quickly than other portions.

One of my favorite plants in my garden is the dragon fruit. I’ve always enjoyed having them. I believe this post has aided you if you are growing dragon fruit in your garden or intend to do so.

Please send a message through the contact page if you have any inquiries about growing dragon fruit. We’ll do our best to respond to you as quickly as we can. We are willing to impart our knowledge.

How long does it take for dragon fruit cuttings to ripen?

Are you seeking for a plant that will be the focal point of your garden and genuinely amazing? Then, learn how to cultivate dragon fruit quickly, and look no further than this fruit!

Dragon fruit is a native of Mexico, Central America, and South America. It is also occasionally called pitaya, pitahaya, strawberry pear, night-blooming cereus, the belle of the night, and even cactus fruit. Most importantly, it is one of the few fruits that are grown straight from particular species of cacti.

The distinctive, colorful, and conspicuous dragon fruit is distinguished by its dark pink, leathery skin and is filled with sweet nectar that highlights the fruit’s dazzling white meat and tiny black seeds.

Dragon perennial plants develop quickly and give beautiful value to your garden environment in addition to producing rounded, spiky, and nutrient-rich fruit to your dragon fruit trees.

When planted from seeds, dragon fruit trees require seven to eight years to bear fruit; when grown from aerial cuttings, it only takes one to three years.

How is a dragon fruit cactus grown?

  • Planting dragon fruit in a location with direct sunshine or one that receives at least six hours of sunlight each day will enable it to bear fruit. Make sure your plant is placed indoors in a warm, sunny area.
  • Dragon fruit prefers somewhat damp soil, unlike the majority of cacti.
  • If you’re planting your dragon fruit in the ground, make sure the soil is sandy and slightly acidic and that it has quick drainage.
  • As a vining cactus that wants to climb, dragon fruit. It can clamber 5 to 10 feet, so add a stake or trellis for support. Additionally, ensure that your support system is very strong because the plant may get overburdened with fruit.
  • During the summer growing season, this plant benefits from a low-nitrogen cactus fertilizer every other month; once winter arrives, halt the feedings.
  • Watch out for larger animals that enjoy the fruit, such as bats and birds, as well as smaller intruders like bats and mealybugs.

How often should I water my cuttings of dragon fruit?

When should dragon fruit be watered? We advised watering your plant every two weeks. The soil should be hydrated but not saturated.

Do dragon fruits require full sunlight?

Although dragon fruit trees thrive in warm climates and are frequently planted in direct sunshine, excessive sun exposure in dry or extremely hot climates can harm the stems. It’s recommended to put your cactus in a location with some partial shade if temperatures in your area are usually close to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

The best soil for dragon fruit is?

Although practically any soil can be used to cultivate dragon fruit, sandy soils with sufficient irrigation are typically recommended. For a successful crop, the soil’s pH level should be between 5.5 and 6.5. At a minimum, beds should be 40 to 50 cm high.

How should a dragon fruit cactus be cared for?

greater than that of other cacti, water (approximately once every 2 weeks). Dry the soil between waterings. While not being saturated, soil should be moist.

12-27oC (54-80oF). Except in USDA zones 10a to 11b, keep indoors. To avoid wilting or freezing, keep temperatures below 0oC (32oF) and no more than 37oC (100oF).

Which fertilizer is ideal for dragon fruit?

Prepare it according to the following weight ratio: 40 to 60 percent household trash, 30 to 50 percent animal waste, 30 to 20 percent crop waste, and 10 to 20 percent tea seed meal. Inoculate the mixture with a complex microbe that makes up 0.5 to 2.5 percent of the total weight. After being thoroughly combined, the initial fermentation happens. In the range of 0.2 to 0.5 percent of the total weight, add a germ community. Fertilizer was produced following the second fermentation.

Natural fertilizers for Dragon fruit

purely eggshell, crushed It is just pure eggshell with no additives. Your plant’s dragon fruit will benefit most from this fertilizer. This fertilizer, which is devoid of salt and packed with nutrients for strong Dragon fruit trees, contains 90% calcium, 6% magnesium, and 1% phosphorus. Simply smash the eggshells and scatter them on the ground near the bushes that produce dragon fruit.

Commercial fertilizers for Dragon fruit

Ratio NPK An inorganic fertilizer of type 6-6-6 or 8-3-9 is suitable for your dragon fruit. At occasion, a 20-20-20 mixture can also be helpful. Use plant water-soluble fertilizers, such as 20-20-20, to fertilize the plants once in the early spring and one again after the flowers have finished blooming. For every gallon of water, combine one spoonful of fertilizer. You can use a variety of fertilizers with dragon fruit.

  • Fertilizers for All Purposes 6-6-6
  • Biology 8-3-9
  • Natura Plus Plus Balance 8-4-12

All landscape demands are met by all-purpose fertilizer, including gardening requirements. This is due to the fact that granules are simple to disperse. All-purpose fertilizer is a balanced nutrient formation next to that.