How To Get Succulent Seeds

The most popular methods for propagating succulents include cuttings, offsets, leaves, and division. Growing succulents from seed is a fun and instructive approach to grow more plants. The sole way to propagate some succulents, including Dudleya, Lithops, Echeveria, and Cacti, is from seed because it is the most feasible method. Since many succulents do not offset as freely as others, this is the case. Succulents are frequently available in smaller sizes in nurseries. Because they are cultivated from seed, different succulents don’t typically come in 2″ pots, or if they do, they might cost more.

A gratifying and enjoyable method to learn about a plant’s whole life cycle is to grow succulents from seed. Getting seed is the initial stage in this procedure. Online sources for succulent seeds can be difficult to locate and are frequently unreliable. Collecting seed from your own collection is the greatest method to ensure that you are receiving what you expect.

The maturity and cross-pollination of your mother plant affect your ability to gather seeds. It could take the plant several years to flower if it is a young one. All three genera—Aeonium, Greenovia, and Agave—are monocarpic, which means a rosette will only bloom once throughout its lifetime and that it can take longer to be able to collect seed from them. Aeonium are quick-growing plants that, once planted in the garden, will eventually bloom annually from various offsets.

Many succulents require cross-pollination, which is the transfer of pollen from one plant of the same species to another. If you do not notice pollinators visiting your plants or if your collection is kept in an area that is not accessible to pollinators, you will need to manually pollinate them with a little paintbrush. Note: Cuttings from the same plant that are genetically identical succulents will not result in the production of viable seed. The fruit will begin to grow and mature, which is a sign that pollination has taken place.

How to Gather:

Seed capsules should be fully ripe and dry before collection in order to ensure the best viability. Some fruits, like Aloe spp., will naturally split open and disseminate. In this instance, it’s crucial to gather the seeds before they fall to the ground or are carried away by the wind but before the seed capsule becomes dry or brown. Use a small net or sock to catch the flower stalks, or place a dish or tray underneath.

the image above Green describes an unripe Glottiphyllum nellii fruit (left). a hard, brown, dried, and ready to be harvested seed capsule (right).

Place a paper bag over the inflorescence, cut the stem, and turn the bag upside down to gather minuscule seeds like those of Aeonium, Dudleya, and Echeveria without losing them to the breeze.

NEVER take seeds from natural ecosystems. If you don’t have a permit, this is termed poaching and is against the law.

Aeonium ‘Ballerina’ seed not yet ready for harvest (left) and Aeonium ‘Thundercloud’ seed ready for harvest and planting are shown in the image above (right).

Processing Seeds:

The capsules may simply be opened by hand, allowing the seeds to be processed. Smaller seeds can be treated by first separating the seed from the capsules with a small grinder, and then using a mesh filter to separate the seed from the chaff. You can remove the seeds from hard seed capsules, such as Mesembs (Lithops, Glottiphyllum, etc.), by putting them in a Ziploc bag or paper bag, pounding them with a hammer, and then removing them by hand.

To avoid having them suddenly blown away by a gust of wind, always process seeds indoors.

How to Keep Seeds Safe:

Seeds should be kept in dry, protected settings in paper bags or seed packs. Heat and humidity severely impair viability. Make sure the seeds are totally dry if you intend to store them in plastic bags. Seeds that are prematurely picked will perish in glass or plastic due to an overabundance of moisture. Name of the species, time and place of collection should all be written on the packaging. When stored properly, seeds can be kept for many years without losing viability.

Growing numerous plants from your own seed is a sustainable method. The color and structure of leaf can vary widely due to genetic variety. The real fun starts now, and you might even be able to come up with a unique list of choices.

Succulent plants produce seeds, right?

Your succulents will still produce lovely blooms without pollination, but they won’t develop any seeds. Unpollinated flowers will just wither and die off without developing any seed pods.

Can seeds be used to develop succulent plants?

Due of the small size of succulent seeds, you should do this step in a wind-free region.

  • So that the seeds adhere to the soil, dampen the soil’s surface.
  • Give the seeds room to grow by evenly distributing them across the soil mixture’s surface. Depending on the type of succulent you are planting, the spacing varies. When determining how far apart you should space them, consider their adult size.)
  • Spread them out evenly using a toothpick. Put one or two seeds in each cell of your tray, if it is divided into sections. Don’t bury the seeds in the ground.
  • Use plastic wrap or a clear lid to protect your tray(s).
  • Place the trays in a well-lit area that is away from direct sunlight.
  • Keep the setting at at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Your seeds can be drowned by too much water, so keep the soil moist but not soaked. To keep the air circulating, open the lid twice daily.

How do seeds from succulent plants look?

It ought to be obvious, but choosing seeds from a reliable supplier will make a significant impact! Many succulent seeds resemble dust or dirt, making them easily mistaken for other objects.

The Walawala Studio store on Etsy is my go-to place to get succulent seeds. They have a wide variety of seeds, some of which are more uncommon species, and the seeds are of the highest caliber.

Great seeds are also sold by other retailers on Amazon and Etsy. Just make sure you read customer reviews before you buy. It will take some time to determine whether succulent seeds are what they claim to be, even though they are not particularly expensive.

What You’ll Need:

  • slicing shears
  • gardening mitts (for handling spiny varieties)
  • a little trowel
  • potting soil for cacti and succulents
  • jars with sufficient drainage holes

Remove Some Leaves or Behead

Take a few leaves at random from your succulent plant, gently twisting each one off the stem without breaking it.

These can be cut off the bottom of the stem, which will be discarded, when it begins to grow lanky.

To remove a specific leaf from a plant, such as a Christmas cactus, you might need to use scissors.

If you’re “beheading,” cut the stem of the plant head cleanly with your scissors or clippers about an inch below the lower leaves.

Plant

When roots start to form, either choose a site in your garden that is ideal for planting or fill well-draining containers of your choosing with potting material.

Sunshine and well-drained soil are ideal for succulent growth. They get paler in the absence of sunlight, and they decompose in excess moisture.

When the sun is less powerful, such as in the early morning or late afternoon, plant in a sunny location.

To lift the cuttings above the edge of your container or garden surface, pile dirt higher. To stabilize the roots, gently tamp the earth down; do not water.

Water and Feed

It’s time to buy a succulent/cactus food at this stage, such as Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food, which is sold on Amazon. administer as directed by the manufacturer.

Succulents can also be propagated via cuttings that are placed on top of potting soil and allowed to callus off so they can root themselves in the soil.

Can cuttings be used to grow succulent plants?

What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.

Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.

Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.

Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.

Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.