Gnats frequently start to appear in and around your succulents, both indoors and outdoors, when the weather is warm.
The good news is that they won’t harm your succulents and that most of the time it’s not too difficult to get rid of them.
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If your succulents aren’t in well-draining soil or don’t dry out between waterings, your pots could be a very alluring breeding place for these pests because fungus gnats LOVE damp soil.
This issue can be avoided by letting the soil entirely dry out in between waterings. Since the larvae are already present, this will also aid in their elimination. Without water, your succulents will survive for a few days or even weeks.
An apple cider vinegar trap will work to eliminate the flying gnats. Just add some apple cider vinegar to a plastic cup, maybe a couple tablespoons. Put a few drops of dish soap in. Put a plastic bag over the cup, but pierce it with a finger-sized hole.
The gnats can fly in because of this, but they find it challenging to flee. The dish soap either traps them or weighs them down while the vinegar’s sweet aroma draws them in.
Additionally, you can cover your soil with food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE), which will kill any adults or larvae that come into touch with it.
The simplest technique to get rid of gnats is to keep your soil dry, which also benefits succulent plants. So make sure the soil you use has good drainage.
Why are gnats swarming my succulent plants?
The short answer is yes, fungus gnats are damaging the roots where you can’t see them.
They are a pest in addition to being a nuisance. But don’t worry; getting rid of them is not too difficult.
Start by ceasing to water. Again, STOP watering. Completely. Don’t water AT ALL, as in. None of the spritzes, sprinkles, or sprays.
The microscopic maggots that make up these gnats dwell there until they hatch into adults, therefore they can only exist (and breed) in moist environments containing organic materials in the soil.
Fungus gnats on succulents are a sign of two things: first, that you’re watering them excessively, and second, that the soil in which they’re growing is the improper one.
The soil must be gravelly and well-drained for succulents. Your plants will likely be in the convenient peat-based soil that many growers use for every kind of plant they grow, especially if you purchased them from a distributor that purchased them from specific growers.
The issue is that, despite the fact that the plants grow well in this soil under their conditions (bright and warm), even if it is simple for them to get and utilize, once the plants are in your home and you overwater them, fungus gnats start to appear.
So, in addition to waiting until the soil is bone-dry before watering, you’ll need some kind of mulch, such as tiny aquarium pebbles, to prevent adult insects from getting to the soil.
Many of the flying adults will be caught by the unattractive but necessary yellow sticky traps, but don’t stop using them too soon because a fresh crop of newly hatched ones will soon emerge from the ground.
Other things to try;
- As they flutter around, the adults are immediately vacuumed out of the air. a lot of labor.
- Hydrogen peroxide diluted with water can be used to water your plants to destroy the larvae stage (I’ve never tried it; use at your own risk).
Finding 3 percent hydrogen peroxide without any additions is advised. Dilute it with 4 parts water and apply it right away to hydrate the soil. Although it will fizz up, all of the soil-dwelling larvae are killed.
- As a last option, repot all of your collection in fresh soil and throw away the infected soil; if you compost it or retain it, the situation will only become worse.
Some commercial potting soils, like Miracle Gro and others, appear to cause greater problems than others. Make sure the potting soil you choose has been pasteurized or sterilized.
I have potted plants, how can I get rid of the gnats?
Fortunately, there are several of organic and chemical-free ways to get rid of fungus gnats from your prized plants. You can use a traditional trap or common household goods like potatoes and dish soap!
Let the Soil Dry
It’s important to remember to let the soil dry out for a few days and refrain from watering your plant because fungus gnats and their larvae prefer to nest in moist soil. The gnats will be forced to live in an uninhabitable habitat as a result, and they will disappear in dry soil. Do not be afraid to skip your next watering in order to get rid of the gnats; your houseplant will be able to endure the dryness for a longer period of time than you might imagine.
The best advice is to take your plant out of the planter and drain any extra water from the bottom. Thus, there won’t be any dampness where gnats might deposit their eggs.
Use Traps
There are numerous traps you may employ to get rid of these bothersome bugs if you’re seeking for a speedier fix. You can choose to DIY these with a few common things or run to the store and buy specialist traps, depending on what best suits your needs.
- Pour a cup of white vinegar and a few drops of liquid dish soap onto a shallow saucer. The gnats will be drawn to the solution and fall into the trap if you place the bowl near your plant. Repeat the procedure until no more gnats are present.
- Sticky fly traps are an alternative if the smell of vinegar deters you from making your own homemade gnat trap. These little yellow paper sheets attract gnats and trap them with glue because of their brilliant hue. Although it might not be visually appealing, this procedure is simple and safe.
- Consider purchasing an indoor fly-catching gadget if you’re sick and tired of gnats in your plants and need an urgent fix. These are typically USB-powered and can be purchased locally or online. The blowers and LED lights draw the gnats, and eventually they are drawn into the trap.
- Are there any extra potatoes in the kitchen? Set a trap for them! Place the potatoes flesh-down on the ground after cutting them into little pieces. The fungus gnats will be drawn to the potatoes by their dampness. Just be careful that the parts don’t dry out otherwise it won’t operate.
Sanitize and Repot
Consider removing the plant from its planter and scraping out the soil if you want to take matters into your own hands. When doing this, take care not to disrupt the roots and take only what you can get rid of. Put the contaminated soil in a plastic bag and wash the planter with soap and warm water to sterilize it. Repot your plant into new soil after this is finished, then put it back into its planter.
Use a Spray Bottle
Take a spray bottle and combine water and dish soap in it. Repeat the technique until all of the gnats are gone by spraying the solution on the top layer of soil. If you’re seeking for a quick and natural solution to get rid of fungus gnats, try this.
Why do fruit flies keep appearing on my succulent?
While other insects may occasionally nibble on certain succulents and cacti, they are typically not prevalent enough to do as much genuine harm as cactus beetles. However, the following are the top three offenders you might encounter:
Fungus gnats
Fungus gnats may remain on or around your plants, much like those annoying little fliers (fruit flies) that surround bananas and other fruit when it is just a bit too ripe. They are attracted by excess moisture in the soil. To help ward off fungus gnats, avoid overwatering succulent plants.
Allow your plants to dry out if you’ve been watering them and you start to notice bug issues with succulents and cacti. Put indoor plants outside to hasten drying when weather permits. Unpot and remove soil from roots if soil is wet to prevent rot. On wet roots and stems, rot forms quickly. then repotted in dry soil.
Aphids
The dreaded aphid is frequently seen as a swarm of tiny insects around young vegetation. The immature leaves may have cottony threads in them. These bugs are around 1/8 inch (3 mm) long, and depending on their food, they can be black, red, green, yellow, or brown in color. As a result of aphids sucking sap from new development, foliage becomes wrinkled or stunted. Other plants were quickly infested by these parasites.
Whether plants are inside or outdoor, the treatment varies. They are typically moved by a water blast and do not come back. Often, you can’t spray water on indoor plants. If the foliage is too sensitive, apply horticultural spray or alcohol. A single application will typically take care of aphids, but continue to check for them on neighboring plants to make sure they’re gone.
Another type of these parasites that eat the roots of your succulent plants are called root aphids. Check for root aphids if your plants are yellowing, stunted, or otherwise not looking good. A excellent reason to unpot and inspect is when there is a loss of vitality but no other obvious pest or disease symptoms.
Although they can occasionally be spotted on top of the soil, these cunning ones strive to conceal themselves beneath the rootball. Make sure you unpot away from other plants, preferably outside. Root aphids can be repelled with the aid of new soil, a systemic insecticide, or treatments containing Spinosad. Get rid of contaminated dirt far from any plants you are cultivating.
Mealybugs
A white, cottony substance on your plants is frequently an indication of mealybug activity. On woody stems, eggs overwinter, and crawlers hatch out in the spring. These suck juices from your plants’ sensitive places, resulting in distorted growth and the plant’s weakening. Crawlers grow a waxy layer that shields them as they eat the leaves. Unless ants transport them to another plant, feeding crawlers remain largely in the same location.
Ants are symbiotic with pests, protecting them by consuming the juice (honeydew) produced by feeding mealybugs and aphids. Pests are eradicated when the protective exoskeleton is broken down by alcohol or horticultural soap spray. Once more, multiple treatments might be required. Spray bottles that hold alcohol are readily available. For the treatment of pests, both forms of 50% and 70% are effective.
Avoid letting these cacti or succulent bugs prevent you from enjoying your plants. To keep these plants looking their best, all you need to do is learn what to look for and how to handle them.
How can I remove bugs from my indoor succulent plants?
When you detect mealy bugs on your succulents, the first thing you should do is quarantine the affected plants and relocate them away from other plants. Check the healthy plants for any indications of mealy bugs.
After that, be ready to clean your contaminated plants by removing them from the pot and giving them a thorough rinsing under running water. In hot, soapy water, wash the pot. Replant with fresh soil after allowing the plant and pot to dry out. Old dirt should be disposed of in the regular trash, not the green bin.
If you don’t instantly have ready-mix succulent soil at your home, you can put the soil in an oven-safe container covered with foil and bake it for at least 30 minutes, or until the soil reaches 180 degrees Fahrenheit. After letting cool, plant again. Since there may still be mealy bug eggs in the old soil, we advise getting new soil.
Now let’s get to the most crucial step: mealybug elimination. Pesticides made of chemicals are generally the first thing that springs to mind. We don’t advise using them, though, as some of them can be highly damaging to succulents. Here are some secure choices we’ve tried and think are really helpful:
Neem oil and soap mixtures or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) come first. The cheapest and most efficient approach for controlling aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites is to use 75 percent rubbing alcohol. Simply give the succulents a good spraying and leave them. The bug will start to turn brown, which indicates that it is dead. The plants won’t be harmed by the alcohol because it will entirely evaporate in a short period of time. Perform this each week until you no longer notice any bugs.  
Another secure insecticide that can be applied directly to outbreaks is neem oil. It has the ability to instantly eliminate all stages of mealybugs. Neem oil at a concentration of 5% in water is combined with a few drops of soap before being sprayed all over your succulent. Keep in mind that using concentrated neem oil could burn your succulents.  
If you don’t have a spray bottle, you might paint-brush any area where mealy bugs are present. After a few hours, water the plant to remove the dead insects. You can readily find rubbing alcohol and neem oil online or at your neighborhood pharmacy. To prevent water stains or sunburn when using neem oil or rubbing alcohol, be sure to keep the plant out of direct sunlight. For a few days, keep them away from the window and direct sunshine.  
If there are still some mealy bugs on your plant, check it again and continue the procedure for a few days. Then, as a preventative step, spray once again after a week. Neem oil can also be sprayed into the soil to eliminate any bugs or eggs that may be lurking there. Put the plant back in its original location and continue inspecting every three weeks if mealy bugs don’t recur after thoroughly checking and spraying for a few weeks.
Neem oil and rubbing alcohol are relatively secure, but there is a danger they could harm your succulent.
So we advise utilizing ladybugs as another natural cure. Yes, you heard correctly! These adorable ladybugs are all-natural enemies of mealybug and other troublesome pests. However, we advise utilizing ladybugs only as a preventative measure and when your plant is in the early stages of infestation.