How To Get Mold Off Of Succulents

Mixing water, baking soda, and dish soap together is an excellent technique to get rid of mold from your succulent. Succulent leaves are more durable than those of other plants, so you can use a cloth and this mixture to wipe the mold off. Purchase a tiny spray bottle if you don’t want to clean it off right away. After that, spray the succulent’s leaves with the liquid that you prepared in a bottle.

If you want to create your own organic fungicide, watch the video below. The short, four-minute video walks you through every step of creating your own homemade baking soda spray.

What should I do if mold grows on my succulent?

Early indications of this fungus include round, gray-brown spots on the surfaces of leaves and stems. As the infection worsens, these spots turn fuzzy with mold. It is the type of fungus that spreads when the weather starts to cool down and get damp, typically in the early Spring or Summer. It thrives in a moist, shaded area with poor airflow.

Dishwashing soap is one of the most used home-made fungicides in the early signs of a plant affected by grey mold. Just make sure it doesn’t contain bleach or greasers. The damaged regions of plants with severe grey mold infections must be removed. It’s best to refrain from watering from the top as well.

Leaf stains

Succulents can get fungal leaf spots indoors and outdoors, although they are not harmful. What makes it annoying is that when the fungus becomes too accustomed to your plant, the small area will enlarge and start to resemble a blotch, which will probably eventually kill your plant.

A succulent with Leaf Spots can be treated in a number of secure and practical ways. You can either spray your succulent with a moderate solution of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, or you can use an all-purpose fungicide.

fungus wilt

Fusarium Wilt is a fungus that lives in the soil. It penetrates the plant through the roots and starts reproducing in the vascular tissues, obstructing the plant’s ability to absorb water, leading to severe stress, wilting, yellowing, and most likely, death.

Regrettably, there is currently no known cure for fusarium wilt in plants. The fastest removal and disposal of the infected plant is the best advised course of action for this fungus. Fusarium-contaminated soil must also be removed. This will aid in limiting the spread of the fungus.


A series of fungal infections known as anthracnose are brought on by members of the Colletotrichum genus. Circular, pale, sunken, or brownish patches that are characteristic of this type of fungus will cause the plant tissues to dry up and become hard like bark.

The only way to save your succulent once it has been attacked by this fungus is to remove the afflicted leaves. To further prevent the spread of this fungus, it is best to replace the contaminated plant’s soil and pot in addition to thoroughly cleaning all of your instruments.

You can apply fungicides that contain chlorothalonil, copper sprays with copper diammonia diacetate, propiconazole, and systemic fungicide thiophanate-methyl to eliminate any remaining fungal bodies and to maintain control.

Rotten Root and Crown

In comparison to other fungal illnesses, root and crown rots are among the hardest to diagnose. They don’t exhibit any distinctive symptoms that could enable you to identify an infection in your succulent.

To give you an example, a plant with root rot will first begin to wilt, then the leaves will start to turn brown, and finally the stems will start to rot, causing the plant to topple over. The roots will turn brown beneath the earth and will easily separate if the soil is carefully scraped away.

Fine feeder roots typically maintain a healthy white to tan color and can hold the root ball together effectively even if the root crown is also diseased. However, as soon as the plant’s soil is removed, brown spots can be seen on the cortex of the roots as well as the root crown or stem base.

Sadly, therapy does not work well for root and crown rot. However, this can be prevented by lowering moisture. Simply use a well-draining container and give your succulents the appropriate amount of water to achieve this. Just enough to meet the requirements of your plant. Additionally, any mulch that is longer than 4 inches should be removed to avoid letting your plant remain in excessively moist soil.

Why does the white mold on my succulent exist?

Powdery mildew is rare in succulents, but it can occur in some species.

The symptoms of powdery mildew include a white coating that develops into splotchy areas on the leaves.

Usually, powdery mildew develops on succulent leaves after prolonged contact with water or when the soil is very damp.

It is best to isolate your succulent as soon as you discover any powdery mildew symptoms to stop it from spreading. Use safer soap or isopropyl alcohol to remove the mildew.

Can you remove mildew that is powdery?

For a fast visual inspection, note that powdery mildew can be scraped off the leaves. Eventually, mildew will cover leaves and entire plants, limiting photosynthesis, plant vigor, and bud quality. These fuzzy mycelium patches release airborne spores that quickly attack nearby plants.

What should I do about the white mold on my plants?

One of the most popular DIY solutions for removing plant mold is baking soda. You must combine sodium bicarbonate, dish soap like Dawn, and water in the anti-mold spray for it to work. You could discover, though, that the baking soda solution works more at preventing white plant mold than in treating it.

How to make a baking soda spray to kill plant mold:

  • 1 tablespoon of baking soda should be dissolved in 2 liters of water.
  • Add 1/2 teaspoon of liquid soap to the mixture and thoroughly combine.
  • Spray the damaged plant’s leaves and stems with a large amount of water after filling a spray bottle.
  • Dry off the plant.
  • Continue until the white powdery mildew has disappeared.

If the baking soda solution doesn’t seem to be working, you might want to try potassium bicarbonate as a stronger antifungal spray.

Dish soap increases the efficiency of the baking soda by assisting with its adhesion to the plant.

It’s critical to keep in mind that sodium in baking soda will eventually leach into the soil when using it to remove white plant mold. This may eventually hinder the plant’s growth. Therefore, you might need to flush the soil once in a while to get rid of a salt or mineral accumulation.

Use baking soda as a mold prevention treatment

The baking soda spray for white mold issues works best when used as a prophylactic measure. White fuzz is more common in some houseplants than others. Therefore, if you anticipate having issues, apply the spray early in the growing season.

Spray your plants with the aforementioned baking soda mold treatment mixture every two weeks when it’s warm and humid inside.

For the best results, use baking soda sprays on plant fungus.

  • Two days before using the baking soda mold spray, thoroughly hydrate the potting soil.
  • When the anti-mold spray is drying, avoid placing the plant in direct sunlight.
  • Before using baking soda spray, always make a new batch.

Does powdery mildew disappear when water is soapy?

Identification The first thing to understand about powdery mildew is that, despite some similarities in appearance to downy mildew, it is very different from the latter. On leaves, both create spore masses that are pale in hue. While powdery mildew can appear on both sides of leaves as well as shoots, buds, and occasionally flowers, downy mildew only produces spores on the undersides of leaves. Additionally, downy mildew is a disease that develops in cool, rainy weather and is typically prevented by warm, dry, breezy conditions. When the temperature is warm and the foliage is dry, powdery mildew thrives; wind disperses the spores to other plants. In fact, foliage that is wet prevents powdery mildew spores from germinating or growing, which is why overhead watering is occasionally advised as a prophylactic on crops that are particularly sensitive.

Powdery mildew spores can be found in plant detritus from the previous year or on perennial crops including grapes, strawberries, raspberries, and fruit trees. This year’s growth may be harmed under the correct circumstances, and the sickness may spread swiftly. Cool, humid nights followed by hot, dry days are the ideal conditions for the disease to develop.

On a squash leaf, there is powdery mildew. Dmitry Brant’s photo is used under a creative commons license.

Milk Milk is the newest natural remedy for powdery mildew. Wagner Bettiol, a Brazilian scientist, reported successful control of the fungus on zucchini cultivated in greenhouses in 1999 using fresh cow’s milk mixed with water to a 10% solution. Australian scientist Peter Crisp tested milk on wine grapes and roses, two plants that are affected by different types of powdery mildew. Crisp discovered that the 10 percent milk solution typically performed equally well as the top synthetic fungicide and sulfur.

The findings have reportedly been validated in the field by grape producers, according to a Science News story. However, there is some worry that using any product—even milk—repeatedly may encourage the growth of resistant fungi. Therefore, the current advice is to spray for powdery mildew once a week while alternating between treatments. There are also a ton of more recipes available.

bread soda Powdery mildew can be effectively treated using sodium bicarbonate, which is also used to make biscuits and deodorize refrigerators. Although its exact mechanism of action is unknown, it is believed to be an instance of induced resistance, meaning that the baking soda prompts the plant to manufacture a chemical to protect itself from pathogens.

Combining baking soda and a horticultural oil has proven to be extremely beneficial. To create your own solution, use 1 tablespoon baking soda and 2.5 tablespoons of horticultural oil to each gallon of water in your sprayer. Other species may tolerate higher concentrations, but you should test for phytotoxicity before spraying wide areas. This results in a 0.5 percent concentration of bicarbonate, the maximum suggested for management of powdery mildew on roses.

A few disadvantages of baking soda include: In order to safeguard the plant’s new growth, it must first be sprayed once a week. When only drip irrigation is employed in drought-stricken areas, it can also build up in the soil. An increase in soil bicarbonate can cause the loss of calcium and magnesium as well as the inhibition of iron absorption and iron chlorosis. (In the majority of farm scenarios, these dangers seem to be minimal.)

Garlic Garlic extracts are yet another home cure, and they are created by combining two fresh garlic bulbs—not cloves—in a quart of water with a few drops of liquid detergent. The liquid needs to be chilled after being strained through cheesecloth to get rid of the solids. Before spraying, that concentrate needs to be diluted 1:10 with water. This offers a 25–50 ppm concentration of the active ingredient allicin, which will aid in preventing the germination of powdery mildew spores. To treat powdery mildew, however, a dosage of 300 to 500 ppm is required after the spores are active.

organic tea Compost tea’s ability to inhibit the growth of fungi is now well documented. Compost tea is highly recommended by many organic farmers who have had success with it, particularly those in the wet Northwest of the country. Compost tea can be made using equipment sold by a number of businesses, or it can simply be made by farmers who combine one part completed compost with six parts water, let it rest for a week, filter it, and then add water until it has the consistency of tea.

lubricants and antiperspirants Powdery mildew can be managed using only oils. Use 2.5 to 3 Tablespoons of vegetable seed oils, such as canola oil, per gallon of water, along with 1/4 teaspoon of liquid dish soap to emulsify the oil. A separate bar of soap is not required because an emulsifier is typically already included in commercial horticultural oils. Powdery mildew can be controlled by soap alone, however soap can also be hazardous to plants.

Neem oil is indicated on the label for the management of diseases such as downy mildew, rust, blackspot, botrytis, and powdery mildew. Every 7 to 14 days, 2.5 Tablespoons per gallon of water should be sprayed on the surface.

Fungicides like mint oil (Fungastop) and rosemary oil (Sporan) are currently on the market. Powdery mildew can be effectively controlled with cinnamonaldehyde (cinnamite).

Sprays called antitranspirants are used to stop water evaporation from plant leaves. It has been discovered that they also offer defense against a number of foliar ailments, such as downy mildew, powdery mildew, and blackspot. According to one study, the antiperspirants Wilt Pruf and Vapor Guard, which are readily available at garden centers, offered roses a 30-day defense against powdery mildew. Antitranspirants are generic against infections, thus the fungus is unlikely to evolve resistance, according to BIRC. They should only be used in bright conditions and must be reapplied to protect new growth as they do, however, limit plant photosynthesis.

On begonia leaves, there is powdery mildew. Scot Nelson’s photo is used under a creative commons license.

sulfur and copper Spraying sulfur and copper on plants with a high susceptibility is a classic method of treating plant diseases. Many products are accessible to organic gardeners, but they are regarded as restricted, meaning they should only be used when all other management techniques have failed. In order to prevent skin and mucous membrane irritation from both copper and sulfur, breathing protection should be worn.

Two bacteria, Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus pumilis, have been proven to be beneficial in treating diseases like powdery mildew. These microorganisms are now present in a number of commercial treatments, including Serenade for home gardeners and Rhapsody for industrial farmers. The purpose of Sonata is to precisely control powdery mildew on roses.

Does powdery mildew last forever?

The gray or white powder that the fungi spores generate is the fungus ailment known as powdery mildew. Usually, it appears on the marijuana leaves, although it can also appear in other places. It occasionally results in little pimples on the top surface of the leaves just before the powder manifests.

In growing places, the spores are mostly dispersed through the air, though occasionally animals or people may accidentally brush up against plants and disseminate them.

This pathogen like environments that are crowded, cool to moderate in temperature, and high in humidity. Typically, fresh growth or newly emerged leaves on established plants are attacked first by the spores. The entire plant will eventually become covered in mildew. It targets the buds in addition to the leaves.

The infected plants reach their last stage when they begin to smell like rotting vegetation. Once powdery mildew appears on your plants, it is quite difficult to remove. Removing the sick plants from your growing area is frequently your last remaining option for rescuing your harvest at this point.