How To Germinate Succulent Leaves

  • slicing shears
  • gardening mitts (for handling spiny varieties)
  • a little trowel
  • potting soil for cacti and succulents
  • jars with sufficient drainage holes

Remove Some Leaves or Behead

Take a few leaves at random from your succulent plant, gently twisting each one off the stem without breaking it.

These can be cut off the bottom of the stem, which will be discarded, when it begins to grow lanky.

To remove a specific leaf from a plant, such as a Christmas cactus, you might need to use scissors.

If you’re “beheading,” cut the stem of the plant head cleanly with your scissors or clippers about an inch below the lower leaves.

Plant

When roots start to form, either choose a site in your garden that is ideal for planting or fill well-draining containers of your choosing with potting material.

Sunshine and well-drained soil are ideal for succulent growth. They get paler in the absence of sunlight, and they decompose in excess moisture.

When the sun is less powerful, such as in the early morning or late afternoon, plant in a sunny location.

To lift the cuttings above the edge of your container or garden surface, pile dirt higher. To stabilize the roots, gently tamp the earth down; do not water.

Water and Feed

It’s time to buy a succulent/cactus food at this stage, such as Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food, which is sold on Amazon. administer as directed by the manufacturer.

Succulents can also be propagated via cuttings that are placed on top of potting soil and allowed to callus off so they can root themselves in the soil.

Can a succulent be started from a leaf?

In the spring and summer, when leaves and stems are ready for active growth, it is simplest to propagate succulent leaves and cuttings. Most common succulents can be multiplied successfully from individual leaves or stem fragments.

  • For succulents with fleshy leaves, like jade plants or echeveria and sempervivum rosettes, leaf propagation works well. The leaf must remain intact for the root to take. To loosen the leaf, gently bounce it back and forth while holding it between your forefinger and thumb. After that, carefully separate the leaf from the parent plant, keeping the base in tact.
  • Succulents with distinct stems, including stacked crassulas and spreading or erect sedums, respond well to stem cuttings. Cutting succulents is analogous to propagating soft-stemmed plants. To cut stem tips, use a sharp knife, or take an entire stem to make many starts. Each cutting should be 2 to 3 inches long and have multiple leaves. Only the top two leaves should be kept.

Can succulent leaves be propagated in soil?

What is there to love other than a succulent? Obviously, a full garden of succulents! Fortunately for us, it’s simple to propagate a variety of these resilient, vibrant plants at home. We can’t wait to see succulents growing all year long in containers around the house and garden; there are various easy ways to reproduce them.

Propagating by Division: Plants that have gotten too leggy perform best with this method, which produces new succulents from cuttings. Start by delicately removing any leaves that may be attached to the stem below the rosette; be sure to preserve the leaf’s base while you do so. After all the leaves have been eliminated, cut the rosette with shears, leaving a brief stem intact. The cuttings should be let to dry in an empty tray for a few days until the raw ends have calloused. The cuttings can then be rooted in either water or soil.

Soil: After the stems have calloused, set the cuttings on top of a shallow tray filled with well-draining cactus/succulent soil. From the base of the cuttings, roots and little plants will start to emerge in a few weeks. Once the roots start to show, water sparingly once a week; take care not to overwater. The parent leaf will eventually wither; carefully remove it while taking care not to harm the young roots. Your propagated succulents can be replanted once they have established roots. As soon as the plants are established, keep them out of direct sunlight.

Water: After the stem has calloused, place a cutting with the end barely visible above the water’s surface on the lip of a glass or jar filled with water. Pick a sunny location for your glass. The incision will eventually produce roots that extend toward the water. Once roots have sprouted, your new succulent can either be replanted in succulent potting soil or allowed to remain submerged in water as illustrated above.

Offsets are little plants that develop at the base of the main specimen, and many species of succulents, such as aloe, hens and chicks, and some cacti, will generate them. Check for root growth after an offset has developed for two to three weeks before carefully twisting, cutting, or using a sharp knife to separate it from the main stem. Be cautious to prevent destroying any already-formed roots. Follow the directions above for propagating in soil or water, letting the offsets dry, establish roots, and then repot when they have had time to callus any exposed regions. Removing offsets has the added benefit of enhancing the health of your current succulents and redirecting energy into the growth of the primary plant.

Succulent leaves can they grow in water?

In water, most succulents can be multiplied. If you have a succulent that is stretched out, you can take stem cuttings and root those, or you can create roots from healthy single leaves.

The most successful succulents are those with thick, meaty leaves, like the Echeveria plant. So when you first try your hand at succulent propagation, these are an excellent option.

It makes sense to multiply a few leaves at once. By doing this, you increase the likelihood that there will be survivors. While others may decay or just wilt and wither away, certain succulent leaves will only produce roots and no new plant.

What is the time required to grow succulents from leaves?

  • Leaf propagation: Typically, it takes 2 weeks for roots to develop through leaf propagation. New leaves will start to form in around 8 weeks and can optionally be transplanted to a tiny container.
  • Root formation typically takes 4 weeks, but it can occasionally take longer with stem proliferation.
  • Offset propagation: Once the pups have developed a calloused skin, the roots typically begin to grow after 4 to 10 weeks.
  • The process of propagating seeds takes the longest—cactus seeds can take anything from three weeks to a year to even begin to germinate. After that, the seedling takes a very long period to mature into a full-grown adult.

Propagate succulent stems above water

Succulents can indeed be grown hydroponically, but you should use caution when doing so. Remove the lowest leaves from your mother plant by making a clean cut. After that, take a water jar and wrap it with plastic wrap. Make a few holes in it, and with the stem never actually touching the water, insert the exposed nodes about half an inch above the water. Whenever the water evaporates, top it off. Your roots should begin to expand in two to three weeks.

Propagate succulents on a wet paper towel

Leaving succulents on a paper towel is another approach to grow them. For a few days, let the ends of your succulent leaf cuttings dry out on a piece of paper towel on a tray. Spray water on the paper towel after a few days, then do it again after a few days. You should begin to notice roots and pups after a few weeks. Some gardeners will additionally cover the paper towel with a clear lid with holes or plastic wrap. You can eventually move your succulents into soil using both the jar and paper towel methods. Just remember that not all of your cuttings might grow successfully because the roots might be shocked by being transplanted into a different media.

Since succulents have so many fleshy leaves and may grow rapidly, you’ll always have room to experiment even if not all of your plants produce roots and pups. You’ll be able to share your succulents sooner than you think if you use leaf cuttings, new cactus soil, bright indirect light, and sporadic spritzes of water.

How is a leaf multiplied?

Include up to 112 inches of the petiole when removing a leaf. Place the petiole’s lower end within the medium (Figure 1). The base of the petiole will sprout one or more young plants. The original leaf-petiole cutting may be utilized again to grow more plants when the new plants are separated from it. African violet, peperomia, episcia, hoya, and sedum are a few examples of plants that can be grown using leaf-petiole cuttings.

Why won’t my succulent root?

You recently purchased some gorgeous succulent cuttings from a nursery in your neighborhood, or even better, online with free shipping. The cuttings you purchased are incredibly lovely, and you can’t wait to see them take root, develop, and flourish just as you anticipate!

Sadly, weeks have passed and your succulent cuttings haven’t even the least bit rooted! Now that the succulent cuttings appear dried up, wrinkled, or dying, you’re probably wondering why they aren’t taking root.

Be kind to yourself because this is something that occurs frequently. Rooting succulent cuttings is a challenge for many succulent growers, especially beginners. Especially if you recently purchased these cuttings and they aren’t rooted, it might be really discouraging.

Your succulent cuttings not rooting for a variety of reasons. It can be the result of overwatering, underwatering, insufficient sunlight, a lack of nutrients, improper soil use, or improper potting.

Not to worry! By the time you finish reading this article, you’ll understand exactly why your succulent cuttings aren’t rooted and how to fix the problem.

Is it better to grow succulents in soil or water for reproduction?

Using water as a medium to root succulent cuttings is known as water propagation. This may contradict popular perceptions of succulents. The general consensus is that succulent plants dislike sitting in water and that doing so encourages root rot.

Therefore, water propagation may go against what we have learned to be true about nurturing and propagating succulents. However, lately I seem to be hearing more and more about water propagation.

According on what I have heard and read, some people believe water propagation to be simpler than more “standard” techniques like roots on dry medium or soil.

I’ve heard a lot of success tales from folks who used water propagation after trying succulent propagation unsuccessfully for a long time. In fact, some people solely reproduce succulent cuttings using water because they see quicker outcomes and more overall success.

According to one notion I’ve heard, succulent cuttings don’t rot in water since water isn’t the main source of rot. When succulent plants are left in moist soil, they are exposed to fungi and other pathogens that can cause illnesses and root rot in the plant. The plants do not decay when propagating in water because they are not exposed to the pathogens that are often found in the soil media.

The fact that the roots generated in water are different from those required for a plant to thrive in soil is another worry people have regarding water propagation. They need to create new roots that are better suited for thriving in soil after they are planted. Others who propagate in water, however, claim that the plants flourish when transferred from water to soil.

As someone who has had excellent success with “soil propagation,” I decided to conduct an experiment to find out how water propagates. To see what might happen, I tried soaking three stem cuttings in water. I picked two distinct plants that I had no trouble establishing in soil. I reasoned that picking a plant that is simple to grow would increase my chances of success. I used stem cuttings from the aeonium (blushing beauty) and the jade (crassula ovata) plants.

The water was placed in three Mason jars, which I covered with clear plastic and punctured in the middle of. I used drinking water that has been treated. Some individuals drink simple tap water. Others have reportedly used distilled water. I didn’t enrich the water with any nutrients. This is not required, based on what I’ve read.

The three stem cuttings were then placed on the jar’s rim with their tips resting directly on the water. When rooting in water, there are two main approaches that people take. One technique is to place the cuts’ end just above the water’s surface. The reason for this is because the cuttings will start looking for moisture and roots. Another approach is to actually let the cuts’ ends touch the water. Although both procedures appear to be effective, I opted for the second one.

I placed the cuttings in a well-lit spot and made an effort to ignore them for a few weeks. The cuts still look the same as I had left them when we returned from a family holiday two weeks later. No roots developed. I just left them alone and kind of forgot about them because the water didn’t seem to need to be refreshed or changed.

I was surprised to notice that the two jade cuttings had a lot of pink roots after another two weeks (a total of roughly four weeks).

Six weeks after the experiment’s start, the jade plants continued to grow more roots while the aeonium remained unchanged.

I took the roots cuttings out of the water and placed them on paper to dry for approximately a day after deciding that it was time to transplant them into soil after around 6 weeks. All three stem cuttings appeared healthy and were not rotting.

The next test will be to evaluate how these cuttings fare in soil after spending five weeks in water and developing water roots. After five weeks, the aeonium cutting hardly developed any roots, but I will still plant it in soil. Since I have grown several aeonium cuttings in soil before, I am almost convinced that this will flourish once planted.

I made a cactus mix and perlite mixture and put the potting mix in little pots. After that, the stem cuttings were placed inside the pot.

The same care is given to these potted cuttings as I do to my other stem cuttings. Keep them in a spot with plenty of light, but shield them from the hot afternoon heat or direct sunlight.

Increases in the quantity and quality of sunlight can be made once these plants are well-established and rooted.

Move to a more shady area if you see that they are getting sunburned. The plants can be moved around to observe where they thrive. After around three weeks, you can pull the stem out to see if the cuttings have rooted. The plant has rooted if it resists being pulled out of the ground and is challenging to do so.

Update:

Please click on to see how these plants are doing four months later “Click here to see updates and photographs for Does Water Propagation Work for Succulents?

A Step-by-Step Guide for How to Procreate in Water is Provided Below:

acquire a cutting. Snip a piece of a succulent plant’s stem. Leggy plants can be a fantastic source of stem cuttings. Leave the stem naked for at least two inches.

OR You can propagate plants by using leaves in place of a stem cutting, or by using both stems and leaves.

Pick healthy leafy plants. A healthy leaf is a better place to start if you want to succeed. Select leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves.

Remove the leaves off the stem gently. Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached.

To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth. The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.

Launder the cuttings. Till the cut end has calloused or dried, let the cutting air dry for a few days.

Submerge in water. Select the ideal-sized cup for the clippings, then fill it with water. Place the cutting so that the stem or leaf’s tip is slightly visible above the water’s surface.

Another method is to let the cutting to touch the water at the end. From what I’ve heard, both approaches appear to be effective. (I chose to do the latter, where the cuts’ end was in the water.)

Plant the cuttings that have roots. After the cuttings have developed roots, let them dry for a few days. The roots cuttings can be planted in an appropriate potting mix once they have dried out.

occasionally use water. Compared to adult plants, baby plants require a bit more moisture. Spray the soil with a spray bottle sparingly once every few days or whenever it seems dry. Reduce watering to once a week after the plant has a stronger root system.

Keep away from the sun’s rays. When first planted in their own pot, shield young plants from direct sunshine to avoid sun damage. As a plant matures, gradually increase sunshine and sun exposure in accordance with the needs of the plant.

Some people opt to leave the rooted cuttings submerged in water rather than planting them as described in step 7 of the process. In water, the cuttings will perpetually live and thrive. Every few weeks or as needed, replace the water and add fresh, clean water.

Some individuals use hydroponics to grow succulents in water. They enjoy the way it seems and are very successful with them. They can be left with lots of light either inside or outside.

My opinions on the spread of water:

I don’t see the necessity to pursue water propagation since I have success with “soil” propagation. It does appear more simple, and I can understand why it could be appealing to others. Just submerge the plants or set them directly over water, then wait for the roots to form.

The aeonium cutting was the only plant that didn’t actually produce any roots at all when I attempted this procedure; it took approximately 4-5 weeks for roots to start to appear. Given that I only utilized stem cuttings and attempted two distinct plant species, I might have different outcomes with leaf cuttings or with other plant species. Additionally, the stem cuttings I left in water for five weeks were OK and didn’t rot or die.

Naturally, depending on the surroundings, the outcomes would definitely vary for others. Depending on the temperature, the type of plant, etc., some people have more success than others when it comes to soil propagation. I most certainly wouldn’t completely reject this approach and would encourage others to give it a shot, even if it’s only for fun or for those who haven’t had success with the “dry” approach.

According to what I have read and heard, many people prefer this technique because it is quicker and they have more success with it than with soil propagation. Therefore, this is definitely worth a shot if you want to experiment and try something new or if you’ve tried propagating repeatedly but without success. Please select “To learn about further succulent propagation techniques, read 4 Simple Ways to Propagate Succulents.

About

You’ve come to the correct location if, like me, you enjoy succulents. This website is a repository for the succulent-growing knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years and am still learning. Although I am by no means an expert on succulents and cacti, this website was created as a result of years of hard work, love, and many mistakes and learning opportunities.