I’ll aim to cover two key topics related to succulents: 1) how to maintain your existing succulent gardens or plants, and 2) how to propagate by chopping pups off the mother plants.
Here is a sizable, well-established Echeveria Agavoides Lipstick garden with a number of activities going on that I will discuss. See how some of the rosettes have withered flower bloom stalks? Once dried, just cut them or gently take them apart before throwing. On Echeverias and the majority of other succulents, the flower blossoms cannot typically be used for propagation.
Cut and throw. Search your surroundings for any regions that have dried or dead leaves. These can be taken off or cut away. This is crucial, please read! Succulents frequently lose their lower, older, outer leaves on their own. Occasionally, they simply shrivel up or lose their color and disappear. Your succulent is not dead or dying as a result of this. Customers will occasionally reprimand us for telling them that their succulent is dead because it has a few older, dead leaves underneath although, in most cases, this is NATURAL!
Do you see anything? Dead leaves and several pups (smaller babies) attempting to reach the light and the outside world! It does several things by eliminating the dead leaves. It helps take away critter hiding areas and enables pups to move out into the light.
Now remove any dead leaves with care. You can use tools like tweezers, cutting edges, and your fingertips. Additionally, you can use your cutting tools to gently take out any pups so that you can plant them in new containers and create a better starting habitat for future pups.
Cut, clear, and tidy! Throw away the many older, dead leaves that are present. It’s completely normal for pups to have dead leaves on their butts.
I want to talk about a few topics here.
Many methods can be used to spread echeverias. If necessary, seeds, but they take a long time. You can also use single leaves or petals; see the link to our Leaf beginnings below. an excellent technique to multiply inexpensively and wisely if you only have a few or little plants. Making entire cuttings from pups or even the main head/rosette is the quickest method. I’ll write another blog post soon about this!
How are lanky succulents cleaned?
- The plant should be cut, leaving approximately an inch or so of stem at the base.
- For a day or two, or longer if your area is humid, leave the stem cuttings in a dry location away from direct sunshine to dry. Launder and seal the wound. To hasten the rooting process, it is optional to dip the cuttings in rooting hormone.
- Put the cuttings in a well-draining potting mix after the cut has healed. Perlite and a cactus mixture are my preferred combinations (1:1 solution). You can find soil and soil amendments here.
- Every few days or whenever the soil gets dry, mist or water the area.
- The stem cuttings usually take two weeks or longer to root.
- Avoid direct sunshine and keep watering every few days or whenever the soil starts to feel dry.
- When the plant reaches maturity, increase sunshine while reducing watering.
The portion of the plant from which the cuttings were taken will keep expanding and generating new growth. Rarely, the base will stop expanding and eventually disappear. However, if this occurs, hopefully you have already grown new plants from the stem cuttings.
Decide where to cut the plant. In order to conveniently put the plant you are cutting into soil and propagate it, you should ideally have at least half an inch of stem on the bottom of the plant.
When you cut the plant, make sure to salvage as many of the roots as possible. These already have roots sprouting, so they will thrive when replanted in soil.
What is farina?
A waxy layer known as epicuticular wax, sometimes known as farina, produces a white or silvery-blue film on the leaves of succulent plants. All kinds of plants have it on their stems, leaves, and fruit, but succulents like Echeveria, Pachyphytum, Sedeveria, Kalanchoe, and Graptoveria, to mention a few, have it the most frequently. Remember that not all members of the genus examples featured here have powdery farina.
You undoubtedly noticed a small mark if you’ve ever unintentionally brushed against your succulent’s powdery leaves. In reality, what you’re doing is eliminating the bloom, which, depending on the species, may be permanent. If it regenerates, it doesn’t go back to its previous level.
Epicuticular wax, named as such because it develops above the cuticle on the epidermis, is actually a small number of microscopic crystals that develop on the cuticle of a plant’s surface and aid in the plant’s ability to repel water. It’s also sometimes referred to as “farina,” which is what I’ve always named it. This is referred to as being “glaucous” on succulents, which is simply defined by Webster as “having a powdered or waxy coating that provides a frosted look and tends to rub off.”
Does removing the epicuticular wax harm your plants?
It serves as a hydrophobic covering that helps shield the plant from the sun, water, infections, and insects, therefore you should avoid removing it. Simply put, hydrophobic means that it repels water.
Avoid using pesticides (which you ought to attempt to do anyway!). Fungicides and plant-based oils, such as neem, can eliminate all of the farina from a mixture. Consider systematically treating plants that have both pests and farina as a soil drench. For mealy bugs, I’ve also successfully misted leaves covered in farina with a mixture of 50 percent rubbing alcohol and water. To prevent burn, always try the product first and let it completely dry in the shade.
Use a very soft makeup brush or blow it away to remove soil from your plant’s leaves. Avoid using your fingers since they may spoil the powdered effect due to skin oils.
Farina helps keep the leaves clean, which is one aspect of it that I especially like on succulents. Dirt, microorganisms, and other particles are caught in the water’s surface beads, which roll them away. The Lotus Effect is the name for this. Last but not least, the waxy covering helps keep water inside the plant, allowing succulent leaves to stay lovely and plump.
Farina-based succulents come with an all-natural sunscreen, raincoat, antibiotic, and bug spray built straight in!
Every portion of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and even the flowers, develops farina. The quantity can change based on the species, as well as within a single species, depending on the region of growth (both in cultivation and in the wild). Unlike soft, fuzzy succulents that can’t be removed with a wipe, farina can.
A healthy plant has an even covering of epicuticular wax. If you observe a mottled appearance, it can be caused by a sickness or by high humidity. This is why it’s crucial to routinely inspect your plants (I have no idea why I’m even bringing this up because I already know you spend hours staring at your plants, OR IS THAT JUST ME? Don’t respond to it.
I can still clearly recall my first time using farina. It was really thick near the base of a flapjacks paddle plant, and I simply knew it was some kind of mold or disease. Can you see why I was concerned? It was so heavy that it was coming off in pieces. It turned out to be epicuticular wax exclusively.
So how do you tell the difference between farina and powdery mildew?
Well, farina is more evenly distributed across the surface of the plant, whereas powdery mildew begins splotchy and steadily develops since it is brought on by fungal spores. Your plant will also start to become sick from powdery mildew, which will result in leaf deformation and aesthetic harm. Another reason to keep an eye on your plants’ health is because of this. You want to stop things like this before they spread to other people.
It’s almost hard for plants to arrive in the mail without having some of the farina washed away. It is displayed below in the Echeveria Lauii. Waiting for it to grow out is the only option (this one did, and it looks wonderful now!). When this occurs, there is absolutely no reason to be alarmed, and the sender is not at fault. It’s merely a step in the procedure. THERE WILL BE GROWTH!
Another specimen of an Echeveria pollux is seen below. This one started out without farina on nearly all of its leaves, but it has since grown out. They gradually climbed to the bottom as time went on and fresh leaves sprouted from the middle. As the plant matures, the first leaves will eventually wither and die (which is totally normal).
While investigating farina on succulents, I came across some information about Giant Chalk Dudleya (D. brittonii) that grows in fissures on steep volcanic rocks that I thought was intriguing. (Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of one, but you can still admire this crest.) Depending on where they grow, there are two types: one has a thick, glaucous coating, while the other does not. The UV reflectance of the Brittonia that does have farina is astounding, at 83 percent, more than that of any other plant species. (Wait, what?) However, the same species’ non-glaucous variants only provided 10% reflectance!
If you have a succulent that has had its powdery farina removed (perhaps because you accidentally cleaned the entire plant with horticultural oil like I did), it may be best to keep it shaded from the sun until it is acclimated again. This is because powdery farina is not only attractive, but it is crucial to plant health. Keep in mind that farina on succulents doesn’t return to how it was before, so be careful not to rub it off!
You’ve probably seen plants regrow their farina. If so, tell us in the comments section below!
Why do my cacti appear dusty?
Powdery mildew is rare in succulents, but it can occur in some species.
The symptoms of powdery mildew include a white coating that develops into splotchy areas on the leaves.
Usually, powdery mildew develops on succulent leaves after prolonged contact with water or when the soil is very damp.
It is best to isolate your succulent as soon as you discover any powdery mildew symptoms to stop it from spreading. Use safer soap or isopropyl alcohol to remove the mildew.
How frequently should succulents be washed?
During the months that are not winter, when the temperature is above 40 degrees, you should water your succulents every other week. You should only water your succulent once a month in the winter (when the temperature falls below 40 degrees), as it goes dormant at this period.
A few situations constitute an exception to this rule. Because their tiny leaves can’t hold as much water as other varieties with larger leaves, some varieties of succulents need to be watered more frequently. In the non-winter months, feel free to give these small leaf succulents a water if they appear to be thirsty. When they are thirsty, succulents generally exhibit a wrinkled appearance. But always keep in mind that being underwater is preferable to being overwater.
How are elongated succulents treated?
It consists of these four simple steps:
- Trim the stem to a length that will fit in your new pot.
- Get rid of any extra leaves beneath the main rosette.
- Dry everything for a couple of days.
- Replant your succulents and cactus in new potting soil.
Step One: Cut
If you have a longer stem to deal with, that will assist it get nicely anchored into your new pot. You may truly cut the stem anywhere and it will start to sprout roots out of the sides and bottom after you replant it. You can just nestle the succulent’s base deep into the earth for replanting, or you can use a stem as short as an inch. To create cuts like these, always use clean, sharp pruning shears. These pruning shears look to be an upgrade of the ones I’ve had for ten years and use every day and adore.
Step Two: Remove Excess Leaves
Remove any leaves that are below that in order to form a wonderful rosette formation, similar to what you presumably had when you initially purchased your succulents. Save those leaves because they may be planted in soil and will each produce a new succulent plant.
Step Three: Dry
Any cuts or cracks you create in a succulent should be left exposed for one to two days. This enables it to sort of scab over and guards against bacterial infections that may happen if the succulent is exposed to any excess moisture. The chances are good that your freshly cut succulents will still dry out without first allowing them to air dry; however, it will take a little longer for the cuts to close up and you run a slight danger of something going wrong. But it’s up to you!
Step Four: Replant
Replanting your succulents into a fresh pot using cactus/succulent potting soil is the last step. This is quite simple. Simply poke a small hole with your finger and put the plant’s stem into the soil. The added benefit is that, while they adjust to their new surroundings, you don’t even need to water them for a week!
What happens if you cut a succulent’s top off?
A succulent cannot return to its original compact height and shape once it has been stretched out. But don’t worry!
Start by using good-quality scissors to trim off the succulent’s top (I adore this pair so much! Definitely worth every cent! Leave 2-3 leaves on the base for at least an inch or two. If you leave a few leaves on the base to absorb sunlight, the base will thrive.
I’ve seen bare stems produce new offshoots, but it takes a lot longer than when I leave a few leaves on the stem. You can trim some of the stem to shorten the cutting if the cutting (the top portion you cut off) is too long for your taste.
Allow the base and the cutting to dry for a few days. You can plant the cutting in soil and start watering it once the cut end has calloused over (totally dried out and appears “scabbed”).
Cuttings do, in my experience, require a little bit more frequent watering than a fully rooted plant. To prevent the stem from becoming too soggy and rotting, use a soil that has a really good drainage system. Here is more information on how to grow succulents from cuttings.
Within a few days, maybe, but most probably within two to three weeks, the cutting should begin to give off roots. You should reduce watering as the roots take hold in order to put the plant on the same “schedule” as fully rooted plants.
Within a few weeks, the base, or original plant, will begin to produce additional offshoots. This plant can still be taken care of in the same manner as before the cut.
The leaves you initially left on the base plant can eventually wilt or drop off. Although highly common, this won’t always occur.
But if they do come off, don’t panic! Without the “parent leaves,” the young rosettes will still be able to develop.