- Levels of Moderate Light Avoid regions with a lot of shade and direct sunshine.
- moderate irrigation Once every two weeks in the winter and once a week or so in the summer.
- Temperatures in interior spaces that are typical. 10C (50F) to 29C (85F)
- Feeding When it is growing, try fertilizing once every three months.
General Care for Haworthiopsis fasciata
The “Zebra Plant,” Haworthiopsis fasciata, is a typical succulent found in homes. Because it grows well indoors when properly cared for, it’s ideal for novices. It propagates easily as well, making it ideal for gifts or decorations.
Watering
Fasciata Haworthiopsis “A succulent’s normal watering requirements apply to the Zebra Plant. You should utilize the “Use the “soak and dry” method, letting the soil to dry out in between waterings.
Additionally, make sure to get our FREE watering cheat sheet to learn how to determine whether your succulents are receiving too much water (and how to save them if needed).
Where to Plant
It is preferable to grow Haworthiopsis fasciata in a container that can be taken indoors if you live in a region that has temperatures below 30 F (-1.1 C).
Partial sun is preferable for it. Plant in a part of your garden that receives 4-6 hours of morning sunlight.
If exposed to additional light, it will develop a deep red color that indicates stress. It will turn white and dry up if exposed to too much sunlight.
Offsets
“Zebra Plant will develop tiny offsets that will grow up from the plant’s base. Simply dig these up and replant in well-draining soil after letting the offsets dry for one to two days.
Commonly Mistaken For
Attenuate Haworthiopsis There is a simple way to distinguish between the two despite their modest variances.
In contrast to Haworthiopsis attenuate, which has bumpier leaves, Haworthiopsis fasciata “Zebra Plant” has smooth inner leaves.
Compared to Haworthiopsis attenuate, Zebra Plant also has fatter leaves.
“Aloe, which can also be dark to bright green and have fat, tapering leaves, is frequently confused with the zebra plant.
Should I spray my succulent zebra?
This time, Aphelandra squarrosa is the focus. These “zebra plants” are part of a big Brazilian family, and in the humid, tropical heat of their native rain forests, they develop into large, tall bushes that blossom lavishly.
The widespread name “zebra houseplant” refers to the plant’s huge, lustrous leaves and its dark green foliage, which has white or yellow veins that resemble zebra stripes. A treasured display is created by their bracts and blossoms, which are vividly colored. At the time of purchase, they are typically quite little, and many indoor gardeners view them as a passing acquaintance. Your Aphelandra squarrosa will only provide you with a few years of enjoyment even with exceptional zebra plant care, but don’t give up hope.
Propagation is a necessary component of zebra plant maintenance. Cuttings of 4- to 6-inch (10-15 cm) stems can be used to readily establish new plants. Take off the bottom leaves, then bury the stem cuttings in potting soil or a glass of water until new roots begin to grow. Your original plant can endure for many years in this method.
Are zebra succulents sun-loving creatures?
Zebra plants thrive in medium and low light environments, which are typically found inside, unlike any other succulents. However, display them in a location where they may receive as much natural light as possible, such as a south or east-facing windowsill, if you want to bring out their magnificent red and orange hues.
Find a spot where your Zebra plant can enjoy at least 4 to 6 hours of bright light, but avoid direct sunlight, especially in the afternoon, if it’s being grown outdoors. Their extremely delicate leaves will most certainly become dry at the tips if exposed to direct sunshine, which is a sign that they are getting too much sunlight.
When should I water my succulent zebra?
When the potting dirt around zebra succulents has sufficiently dried out, water them. The zebra plant’s typical watering needs are met by giving it a good soak once every two to three weeks to prevent root rot. Before watering your zebra succulent, make sure the soil is dry.
Knowing how frequently to water zebra succulents, also known as zebra Haworthia and Haworthiopsis fasciata, is crucial because they are prone to root rot brought on by excessive watering and poorly draining soils.
Zebra succulents can go into a state of hibernation in the summer as a response to high temperatures and as a method to cope with dryness, thus they have varied watering needs at different times of the year.
To avoid water stress and maintain the health of your zebra plant, the ideal watering schedule should be used in conjunction with coarse, well-draining, succulent soil and the appropriate pot.
For additional information on how to determine your climate’s conditions and the best times of year to water your zebra succulent, keep reading.
How is a zebra plant maintained indoors?
Keep the plant continuously wet and in bright, filtered light (avoid direct sunshine). Keep a watch out for its distinctive yellow bract, which will blossom in late summer or early fall, and emphasize its graphically striped leaves with an equally daring container.
What is the lifespan of zebra succulents?
This slow-growing succulent has a lifespan of up to 50 years! It originates from the South African province of the Eastern Cape and is a member of the Asphodelaceae family.
Due to its resemblance in appearance to its relative, Haworthia fasciata, zebra cacti are frequently mistaken for one another. The difference between the two is that attenuata has white, wart-like tubercles on both the top and bottom of the leaves, whilst fasciata only has them on the undersides of the leaves.
On either side of its leaves, there are long, slender, and rather dispersed white tubercles. Although the leaves are not fibrous, touching the white stripes will cause you to feel bumps or ridges.
My zebra plant is drooping; why is that?
Have you noticed that your plant has started to droop more recently? A sudden or extreme drooping indicates a water shortage in the plant.
Zebra plants often require watering twice weekly when they are actively growing (in spring and early summer). This can be decreased to once per week during their rest time.
The finger test can be used to inspect the compost and determine whether it is receiving enough water if you are unsure of when you last watered.
Insert your finger.
Has the top inch dried out or is it still moist? A nice drink should help the compost recover if it feels dry and dusty because these plants need their compost to be hydrated at all times.
How can a zebra plant become bushy?
I advise choosing an African violet potting mix if you choose to utilize potting mixes. Those include adequate water-absorbing substance to maintain the soil’s moisture.
Would you rather create your own potting soil? No issue! I use a mixture that consists of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part coarse sand or perlite, and 1 part garden soil. If you choose, you can substitute coconut coir for peat. Leaf mold is also quite effective.
For optimum growth, your pH level should be in the somewhat acidic range (5.6-6.0). Avoid making your soil too acidic for this plant. You keep your soil’s pH within the proper range, make sure to test it.
Fertilizer
Zebra plants are tiny, ravenous creatures. It takes a lot of food to grow those blooms! Aim for feedings every one to two weeks during the spring and summer growing seasons.
It’s recommended to feed your aphelandra squarrosa using a water-soluble, quick-release plant food. Choose a balanced fertilizer mix and dilute it in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Winter is not the time to fertilize.
Repotting
Don’t rush the annual repotting of your zebra plant. In fact, despite being rather rootbound, it grows nicely! The majority of varieties may thrive and bloom in a 5–6 pot.
Repotting should be done in the spring, before the plant emerges from its winter hibernation, if you do chose to do so. Use a pot that is just one size larger than the current pot. Repot the plant in new potting soil after removing as much soil as you can from the roots without hurting them.
Pruning
Pay close attention to your flower bract. It’s crucial to get rid of flowers as soon as they start to fade. The lower leaves could start to droop and fall off if they are left on the plant for too long. Only stems with leaf tufts at the top will remain after this.
Once the bract has died, you can cut the stem and leaves back to a pair at the base of the plant. In the spring, this will promote a bushier growth pattern.
Propagation
Zebra plant propagation is rather easy and can be accomplished through stem cuttings or air layering.
Cuttings should be buried in a mixture of damp peat and perlite. To keep the moisture in, wrap them in plastic. These trimmings ought to be 4-6 inches long. Put them somewhere warm, between 70 and 80 degrees, and with some shade.
Choose a healthy stem and cut out the leaves in the middle of the stem to air layer. Do not forget to have a few inches of naked stem on hand. Afterward, cut a hole into the stem midway.
To keep the wound open, insert a toothpick. Next, apply rooting hormone to the wound’s surface. Sphagnum moss that has been soaked is wrapped around the wound. Wrap it with plastic to keep it in place. To stop moisture from evaporating, secure the plastic wrap’s ends to the stem with a tie.
You ought to be able to observe roots forming in the moss about a month to a month and a half. Once the plant is established, you can trim the stem and pot it again, but make sure to maintain a high humidity level.
Zebra Plant Flower Production
This kind of plant is difficult to get to bloom. When you locate a zebra plant for sale, the blossom is frequently already present. How can you make your zebra plant bloom once more?
Start by concentrating on the plant’s foliage and ensuring that it survives the winter. For two months in the winter, relocate the plant to a cooler area. Bring it back to a warmer setting with plenty of bright lighting once spring arrives.
Before your plant blooms, it needs roughly three months of bright, indirect light. Blooming is stimulated by the brightness of the light. It doesn’t really matter how long the day is!
Your plant should blossom in three months if it receives enough sunshine, fertilizer, and humidity. Once the flower bract has finished blooming, trim it back. If your timing is right, you might be able to encourage another bloom to emerge in the fall.
Your plant might not flower if the humidity, lighting, or water level are off. That might not be a problem because it looks stunning as a plant with foliage!
Botanical Classification: Aphelandra squarrosa
The zebra plant is a tropical understory plant endemic to eastern Brazil that can grow up to 6′ tall. It is raised as a houseplant and normally grows to a height and width of 1-2′. We suggest the zebra plant to plant parents who appreciate spending time observing their plants’ development because it has very precise care requirements. When grown inside, extra humidity is needed. Zebra plants aren’t extremely adaptive to other lighting conditions and enjoy bright, indirect light.
What can I do to make my zebra plant bloom?
The Aphelandra squarrosa, a native of Brazil, is known as the “zebra plant” because to its white and dark green striped leaf. Zebra plants can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 and up, although gardeners in colder climates prefer to keep them indoors as houseplants. The zebra plant rarely blooms, but when it does, the bracts are spiky, bright yellow, and can reach a height of 4 inches. The plant will only produce leaves if it receives insufficient light. The secret to getting your zebra plant to blossom is lots of bright light.
When the soil’s surface starts to feel dry, water the zebra plant. Keep the soil from drying out completely. Use a towel to dry the plant’s leaves if water gets on them. Fungal infections can occur when the leaves become damp.
How can a zebra succulent be revived?
You may tell something is wrong when the vivid green and white leaves on your zebra plant begin to turn yellow. The main causes of yellow leaves are listed below.
The Problem: Overwatering
Overwatering has been a common mistake made by plant owners. It sounds strange to not water a plant for several days at a period, yet frequently that’s exactly what the plant needs.
Check the soil if the leaves on your zebra plant are turning yellow. It needs to dry out if it still feels wet or if there is standing water after you water it.
Another telltale indicator of overwatering is if the stems are mushy and soft. The roots can’t obtain the oxygen they need to absorb the water when the soil is overwatered and not draining. Root rot results from this, which can be lethal.
The Fix
Take the overwatered zebra plant out of the soggy soil as soon as you detect the problem to save it. Look closely at the roots—are they all mushy and black? If so, your plant might not survive.
If only a few of the zebra plant’s roots appear to be harmed or dead, you might try pulling them out and repottiting the plant in new soil. Within 1-2 weeks, your plant should start to perk up if your efforts were successful.
The Problem: Underwatering
If your zebra plant is thirsty, you should be able to tell a little more easily. The soil needs water as soon as possible if you insert your finger into it and it feels dry to the touch more than 2 inches down.
Other signs of underwatering include withering, brown-tipped leaves, and dry, crinkly leaves.
If you believe this to be the case, water your plant well until water is pouring out of the drainage hole without restriction. If this were the only problem, your zebra plant might recover quickly.
However, a leaf that has turned yellow will never again be green. Anytime you see any leaves that are brown, yellow, or otherwise damaged, you can take them out.
The Problem: Cold Drafts
Temperature is a definite factor for zebra plants. They thrive in warm, humid environments in the tropical rainforests of Central and South America, where they are native.
Your zebra plant’s leaves may turn yellow and fall off if it is regularly exposed to temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit, such as next to a drafty window.
If possible, relocate the plant away from drafty windows and try to improve the insulation there. Since space heaters tend to dry the air out too much, they could cause more harm than good.
The Problem: Not Enough Light
The placement of the yellow leaves is one of the best signs that your plant isn’t getting enough light. You can assume that it needs more if it predominantly appears in the lower leaves or in locations with less light.
If you don’t have someplace else to put your zebra plant and it isn’t in bright, indirect light, think about adding a grow light as a supplement. Fluorescent full-spectrum plant lights are available for purchase and come in a variety of designs and sizes.
Another straightforward choice is to purchase a full-spectrum light bulb made exclusively for indoor plants. Use this to create a little desk lamp that is movable so you can place it directly over your plant.