Succulents may be multiplied, giving you more of what you love. In order to share succulents with friends or because your plants have grown lanky and unsightly, you may need to propagate succulents. Whatever your motivations, we have a tried-and-true method for propagating succulents successfully.
Easy Steps for Propagating a Succulent by Leaf Cutting
1. Cut the desired number of leaves off the stem of the succulent you want to multiply.
- Where the leaf meets the succulent stem, make a precise snap. Your propagation will go more quickly and easily as a result.
- For propagation, take many leaf cuttings (see #5).
2. Allow the succulent leaf’s broken end to callus over, mend, and/or dry out.
- While a week is a fantastic amount of time, you can get away with 2-3 days for small succulent leaves and 4-5 days for larger succulent leaves while you wait for the leaves to heal.
- The succulent leaves you want to multiply should be placed on a sunny window sill to dry. The sun’s rays expose the leaves, strengthening them with nutrients as well.
- When natural sunshine is unavailable, LED grow lights are a choice.
3. Place a succulent leaf directly on the soil in a container or on a tray of soil.
- You should touch the earth with the healed portion of the leaf you are propagating, but not bury it deeply. From there, the newly propagated succulent will grow, and in order to survive, it requires light and space to breathe.
- Although it would take a lot longer to spread, you could let the leaf develop without soil.
4. Provide water and light to your succulent leaf cuttings for successful propagation.
- Depending on the temperature and humidity in your home, water succulent leaf cuttings anywhere between two and four times per week. But don’t overwater. While keeping the soil from drying out, soil should be moist but not to the point of having any standing water.
- It’s ideal to have direct, bright light. Your leaf cuttings may become scorched by too much direct sunlight.
5. Produce several leaves.
- You’ll probably experience some casualties when propagating succulents. You have a better chance of successfully growing succulents if you follow the procedures of propagation with numerous leaf cuttings.
- Place a number of leaf cuttings on a tray or large pot filled with potting soil that is lightweight. Here, you can immediately see which leaf cuttings will begin to develop roots and young succulents and are good candidates for propagation and which leaves will begin to shrivel and turn black, making them unsuitable.
6. Be patient and give your leaf cuttings enough time to grow roots, produce offspring, and reproduce.
- Please take note that leaf cuttings that produce babies but no roots are preferable to leaf cuttings that produce babies but no roots.
- You can sigh with relief when you notice that the young succulents or pups are growing. When the pups or babies appear, you can tell that they are able to produce their own food through photosynthesis as well as their own leaf systems. A leaf cutting that only grows roots may never give birth to offspring or may take a very long time to do so.
- You can always pinch or clip off the mother plant leaf once the babies/pups have formed.
7. Plant your just multiplied succulents in pots.
- Allow your babies or puppies to establish strong roots so that you can repot them into any container you want. If you propagated them in your chosen pot, let them there to continue growing.
- While propagated succulents are still in their adolescent years, keep providing them with indirect strong light. Direct sunlight will be too harsh.
- Give your new succulents a nice soak once every two weeks to water them. Don’t overwater once more. Just keep in mind that succulents store water in their leaves and stems, and that too much water around their roots will result in death by root rot.
- Remove the leaf from the mother plant that was used to propagate the plant, if you haven’t done so before. It has probably already started to shrivel up. The mother leaf remnants will ultimately dry out and fall off if you cut it close to the new plant.
*Special remark Some succulents, such as hoya and kalanchoe, cannot be propagated via leaf cuttings but can instead be done using alternative techniques, such as stem cutting. Later, we’ll talk about those.
Folks, that’s all she wrote! Your succulents that you propagated should be well on their way to developing into mature plants. Good fortune!
Prepare the Pot
Cuttings can be grown in a temporary pot while they develop roots, or you can just plant them in a permanent container. In either case, you’ll need a pot with a drainage hole that’s big enough to give each cutting 2 to 3 inches of space.
To shield your succulents from standing water and root rot, fill the container with a grittier, well-draining soil. Cactus/succulent potting soil is typically available at garden centers. Alternatively, you can create your own by mixing 3 parts potting soil with 2 parts coarse, salt-free sand and 1 part perlite or pumice.
Plant the Cuttings
Insert the cut end of a stem 1 to 2 inches into the ground. If the succulent has leaves, you might need to remove a few of them to reveal the stem’s base. The lowest leaves shouldn’t contact the soil; they should rest just above it. To help the cutting stand straight, softly compact the dirt around it.
Remove any necessary leaves from stemmed succulents to expose 1 to 2 inches of stem for planting.
Pick the Right Location
Choose an area with enough of airflow, bright indirect light (not direct outdoor sun), and succulents that are still young. Cuttings require sunshine to develop new roots, but direct sunlight might cause them to quickly dry up. On indoor succulents, good airflow helps avoid gnat and mealy insect infestations.
Water
Cuttings require constant hydration until they can form roots, unlike mature succulents. Water the soil just enough to prevent it from drying up, but not too much that there is standing water. Actual frequency varies depending on humidity and temperature but is often 2-4 times each week.
Care for Rooted Succulents
A very slight pull will reveal whether a cutting has roots after 4-6 weeks. Change to deeper, less frequent watering for succulents with roots. Water just once the soil is completely dry, which takes about 2-4 times each month. If necessary, repot the succulent and relocate it gradually to the right lighting. Don’t increase light exposure for 1-2 weeks to give the plant time to adjust. Maintain your succulent’s care, and in the upcoming months, keep an eye out for above-ground development.
Should I water the succulent leaves I’m propagating every day?
You need to keep a few things in mind before getting started because success is never guaranteed. Every leaf will frequently behave differently during proliferation. While some might grow the roots, other people might grow a single young succulent. Some succulents can actually produce up to six pups.  
Overwatering frequently causes more harm than benefit.
If you are using soil propagation, only lightly water the soil each day after the roots start to show. You might even just wish to let the leaves alone during air propagation without watering them. The mother leaves will decompose if there is too much water, and the pup will also perish.
What is the time required to propagate succulents?
- Leaf propagation: Typically, it takes 2 weeks for roots to develop through leaf propagation. New leaves will start to form in around 8 weeks and can optionally be transplanted to a tiny container.
- Root formation typically takes 4 weeks, but it can occasionally take longer with stem proliferation.
- Offset propagation: Once the pups have developed a calloused skin, the roots typically begin to grow after 4 to 10 weeks.
- The process of propagating seeds takes the longest—cactus seeds can take anything from three weeks to a year to even begin to germinate. After that, the seedling takes a very long period to mature into a full-grown adult.
Should I spray cuttings of succulents?
Because you probably already own one or many succulents, for many people, propagating them can be the simplest method to get started.
If a succulent is starting to get a little leggy, which means the succulent starts to grow long and the leaves become widely separated, remove the lower leaves. Make sure to completely separate the leaf from the stalk. It won’t establish new roots if you rip it.
The only thing left is a succulent perched atop a lengthy stem. To quickly get the succulent to root again, make a cut between the base of the succulent and the stem’s midpoint.
Then, it’s crucial that you allow the ends to callus over and dry out. Your cuttings may rot and perish if you plant them straight in the soil because they will absorb too much moisture. To allow ends to dry, Tiger advises finding a shaded, dry area on the patio or even indoors. Some people want to expose them to the sun, but he claims that doing so will just bake them. Be tolerant. This procedure can take a few days to more than a week.
When the cuttings are dry, set them on top of cactus or succulent soil that drains well and plant them in a position that gets a lot of indirect light. Only water if the leaves seem particularly dry.
Several weeks later, young plants begin to emerge. Using a spray bottle, spritz the plants once daily, being cautious not to drench the soil.
The leaf will ultimately fall off naturally, at which point you can pot up the young succulent.
What You’ll Need:
- slicing shears
- gardening mitts (for handling spiny varieties)
- a little trowel
- potting soil for cacti and succulents
- jars with sufficient drainage holes
Remove Some Leaves or Behead
Take a few leaves at random from your succulent plant, gently twisting each one off the stem without breaking it.
These can be cut off the bottom of the stem, which will be discarded, when it begins to grow lanky.
To remove a specific leaf from a plant, such as a Christmas cactus, you might need to use scissors.
If you’re “beheading,” cut the stem of the plant head cleanly with your scissors or clippers about an inch below the lower leaves.
Plant
When roots start to form, either choose a site in your garden that is ideal for planting or fill well-draining containers of your choosing with potting material.
Sunshine and well-drained soil are ideal for succulent growth. They get paler in the absence of sunlight, and they decompose in excess moisture.
When the sun is less powerful, such as in the early morning or late afternoon, plant in a sunny location.
To lift the cuttings above the edge of your container or garden surface, pile dirt higher. To stabilize the roots, gently tamp the earth down; do not water.
Water and Feed
It’s time to buy a succulent/cactus food at this stage, such as Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food, which is sold on Amazon. administer as directed by the manufacturer.
Succulents can also be propagated via cuttings that are placed on top of potting soil and allowed to callus off so they can root themselves in the soil.
Why are the succulents I propagated dying?
Cuttings from succulent stems won’t take root if
- Before being planted in soil, the cuttings weren’t given a chance to scab or dry out.
- Either the growing medium has insufficient drainage or the improper sort of soil was employed.
- Overwatering or an extended period of damp soil led to decay before roots could take root.
- The stems dried out and eventually died off due to underwatering or very dry soil.
- The soil dries out too quickly and burns stem cuttings before roots have a chance to form due to excessive heat or sun exposure.
- propagating in the incorrect time of year or when dormant.
The majority of people should typically start noticing rooting in three to six weeks. If by then you haven’t noticed any roots forming, it might be because of one or more of the aforementioned factors.
Are there Succulent Species that Won’t Propagate Through Stems?
Stem cuttings can be used to multiply the majority of succulents. There are some species that cannot be multiplied by stems, including:
- Agaves
- Aloes
- Hens with chicks, or Sempervivums
- Haworthias
Instead of using leaf or stem cuttings for reproduction, the majority of the aforementioned species produce pups or offsets.
Does the length of the stem cuttings matter?
The stem cuttings’ length or size don’t really matter. Getting cuttings from a healthy plant and during its active growing season is very important. In this manner, you can be sure to achieve more success more quickly.
Why isn’t the cutting of my succulent rooted?
You recently purchased some gorgeous succulent cuttings from a nursery in your neighborhood, or even better, online with free shipping. The cuttings you purchased are incredibly lovely, and you can’t wait to see them take root, develop, and flourish just as you anticipate!
Sadly, weeks have passed and your succulent cuttings haven’t even the least bit rooted! Now that the succulent cuttings appear dried up, wrinkled, or dying, you’re probably wondering why they aren’t taking root.
Be kind to yourself because this is something that occurs frequently. Rooting succulent cuttings is a challenge for many succulent growers, especially beginners. Especially if you recently purchased these cuttings and they aren’t rooted, it might be really discouraging.
Your succulent cuttings not rooting for a variety of reasons. It can be the result of overwatering, underwatering, insufficient sunlight, a lack of nutrients, improper soil use, or improper potting.
Not to worry! By the time you finish reading this article, you’ll understand exactly why your succulent cuttings aren’t rooted and how to fix the problem.
Why aren’t my germinations growing?
Both a high air porosity and strong water holding capacity are necessary in a suitable growing medium. Numerous growing medium types can be used, but misting and fogging must be modified to work with the growing medium chosen. Misting or fogging too frequently or excessively keeps the growing media moist, causing extra water to run off the bottom of the trays and delaying roots. Applying mist or fog too seldom will cause cuttings to lose their turgidity and possibly perish from drying out as a result of increased leaf transpiration.
Peat should be present in the growing medium to help it retain water, and material like perlite or vermiculite should be added to boost air porosity. To further increase air porosity and prevent compaction, Premier Tech has created solutions like PRO-MIX FPX BIO-FUNGICIDE, which is mixed with fine Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, fine perlite, or fine vermiculite. Wetting agent, limestone, a beginning fertilizer charge, and BIO-FUNGICIDE are all included in PRO-MIX FPX BIO-FUNGICIDE to help prevent the occurrence of certain root diseases like Fusarium, Pythium, and Rhizoctonia.