Explore the various genera listed below to discover each succulent’s requirements and ideal growing conditions. Start with Haworthia if you’re seeking for indoor succulents. Start with Sempervivum if you need outdoor succulents that love snow. Additionally, if you’re looking for succulents that enjoy the heat, consider Agave or Opuntia.
How numerous are succulent plants?
Succulents belong to about sixty different plant families. The following is a list of plant families, orders, and genera where succulent species can be found.
What succulent is the most popular?
The popularity of succulent plants is explained. They not only thrive on their own but also work well with other kinds of plants. Additionally, the Pantone color of the year, Greenery, is totally on style with succulents! Succulents come in a variety of sizes, hues, and styles that may be used in anything from a child’s room to a home office.
Succulents that are grown inside do best in conditions that are dry and low in humidity. While they prefer direct sunshine, they can also tolerate less intense lighting, which makes them perfect for interior design. The top 10 indoor succulent plant types are listed in the following paragraphs.
What succulent variety is the rarest?
The vivid purple trailing stalks are the first thing that will astound you. It also goes by the name “Little Pickles,” and its remarkable foliage, with its bean-like form, goes well with the vibrant stems. Yellow, daisy-like flowers are borne on red stalks that rise above the plant.
Living Rock Cactus
The stems have a rounded top and appear to have been crushed by force. The yellowish-green stem can reach heights of 8 to 10 inches and widths of 10 to 12 inches. The white blossoms that cover the entire succulent are gorgeous, despite the strange curvature of the stems.
Crinkle Leaf Plant
The wrinkled leaves appear to be covered in ash because they are fully covered with microscopic white hairs. Long stems that can be 8 to 10 inches long bear reddish-white tubular blooms. Small stature makes it ideal for home gardens and little rockeries.
Living Pebbles
This slow-growing member of the Mesebrianthemaceae family resembles lithops and is slow-growing. The stems are clumped together and rather spherical in shape. Over the body, there are dotted patterns with a split in the middle from which the flower emerges.
Plover Eggs
Although it won’t get very tall, this branching succulent can reach a height of 15-20 cm. The leaves have dark purple markings all over them and are flat, wavy, and broad at the edges. They are thin at the base. Pink flowers grow on the 10 to 14-inch-tall inflorescence.
Baby Toes
Due to its similarity to tiny rocks and stubby baby toes, this member of the lithops family is also known as living stones. It is quite simple to multiply by separating the leaves from their clumps. Like a sunflower, the lovely white blooms move with the sun.
Sand Dollar Cactus
This cactus has no spines and grows to a height of 2 to 3 inches. The number of ribs on the stem ranges from 5 to 11. The stems have yellow flowers, which are followed by fruit that is covered in hair and can be green, pink, or red.
Baseball Plant
It gets its name because while it’s young, its shape is practically spherical and looks like a baseball. Additionally, the 8 to 10 ribs that comprise its structure appear to be stitched together. It matures to a more dome-shaped shape and grows to a height of 8 inches.
Paper Spine Cactus
Due to the delicate, papery spines that encircle the knobby stems, this cactus earned its name. From a distance, the way these spines curve up gives it the impression of a ribbon. Further enhancing its appeal are its white bell-shaped flowers with a golden throat.
Calico Hearts
It stands out due to the scattered reddish-purple streaks on the succulent leaves of the calico hearts. The edges of the gray-green leaves are heavily veined with red. Additionally, its distinctive leaves accompanied by summertime tube-shaped flowers can win anyone over.
Star Window Plant
This succulent is frequently mistaken for aloe because of its luscious, dark-green leaves. The star window succulent has variegated leaves with pointed, pointy tips. Up to 4-inches wide, these jelly-like leaves are arranged in a rosette arrangement that resembles stars.
Rainbow Hedgehog Cactus
The summertime blooms of the rainbow cactus, which are magenta and pink, are like a tasty delight. The stem is coated in bands of naturally curving, glossy pink spines. Additionally, as it matures, the pink tint of these spines fades and turns yellow.
Vahondrandra
This aloe is extremely rare and a critically endangered species that is native to Madagascar. Under water stress, Aloe helenae’s recurved green leaves turn crimson. The magnificent inflorescence of this aloe finally gives way to hundreds of smaller blooms.
Ariocarpus bravoanus
The dark green and triangular tubercles of the Mexican plant Ariocarpu give it the appearance of a rosette. Its cream-colored wooly areoles, on top of the lovely rosettes, are even more striking. Its funnel-shaped blossoms, however, further enhance its beauty.
White Ocotillo
The ocotillo’s woody caudex, which is covered with copper-colored spines and has green leaves, makes it the most alluring of the bunch. This succulent resembles a hybrid of a bonsai and a cactus. In the spring, it also produces red flowers that resemble tubes. One of the threatened species is this unique succulent.
Aloinopsis luckhoffii
Aloinopsis luckhoffii, a little succulent with a mature size of 3 inches, is indigenous to South Africa. The thick, angular leaves are light grass green, blue-green, or dark purple, and feature bumpy, gray-white markings. It thrives in direct sunlight.
Echeveria gibbiflora ‘Barbillion’
“Barbillion” produces a rosette of highly carunculated leaves that is 14–18 inches across. This succulent’s capacity to alter shape and color throughout the season is an intriguing characteristic. Do not overwater as this can cause fungus illnesses.
Pies from Heaven
This lovely succulent, which is native to Southwest Itampolo, Madagascar, has woody, slender upright stems covered in long hair and produces delicate, fleshy, slightly furry silver-green leaves with brown markings. Grow the plant in areas that are well-lit and sunny.
Pebbled Tiger Jaws
The dark-green to gray-green, boat-shaped leaves of “Pebbled Tiger Jaws” grow in tight, peculiar clumps. The surface of the leaves is either crystal-free or has white patches on the outer walls. It produces daisy-like, yellow to orange blooms.
Pig’s Ear Plant
This robust succulent is indigenous to South Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. The thick, oval leaves with crimson edges resemble pig’s ears. Bell-shaped yellow, orange, or red flowers in late summer or early fall make the plant appear more beautiful.
Albuca Spiralis ‘Frizzle Sizzle’
The song “Frizzle Sizzle” comes from South Africa. This succulent resembles spiral grass and has thin leaves with twisted, coiling tips. The subterranean bulb gives rise to the tightly curled leaves. The plant blooms with sweet yellow flowers in the spring.
Peruvian Old Lady Cactus
Espostoa melanostele possesses an abundance of long, woolly spines, including sharp yellow or red spines, that cover the entire body of the plant at a relatively young age. It also produces berries-like fruits that are edible.
Adenia glauca
Adenia glauca is a rare caudiciform succulent that has a beautiful green trunk and leaves that range in color from pale gray-green to glaucous. The plant displays creme-colored flowers in the spring.
Sea Dragon
It gains its name from the bumps and ruffles and forms a lovely rosette in shades ranging from gray to red-green. Its undulating foliage will continue to astound you as long as it is kept in direct sunshine. One of those extremely rare and distinctive succulents!
Succulent or snake plant?
One of the simplest indoor plants to care for is the snake plant, often referred to as “Mother-in-Tongue” Law’s and Sansevieria. This succulent plant is ideal for beginners because it is highly tolerant. What you need to know about maintaining a snake plant at home!
About Snake Plants
Snake plants, which are indigenous to southern Africa, are well suited to climates that are comparable to those in the southern United States. As a result, in USDA zones 8 and warmer, they can be cultivated outdoors for a portion of the year. Snake plants should only be planted in restricted areas or in containers since they spread by putting out underground runners and may become invasive.
Only a very small number of conditions have the power to significantly harm this plant, including excessive water and cold temperatures. Root rot is brought on by wet soil, and foliage can be harmed by prolonged exposure to freezing weather.
How to Plant Snake Plants
- Pick a pot with a bottom drainage hole. Since terra cotta pots let the soil to dry out more readily than plastic pots, they are ideal for growing snake plants.
- Use a potting mix that drains effectively. The best potting soil is one made for “cacti and succulents,” as it will be less likely to become overly wet.
- Avoid burying snake plants too deeply when repotting them. The plant needs to be buried the same depth as it was in its previous container.
Choosing a Location in the Home
- Snake plants can handle some direct sunshine but prefer bright, indirect light. However, they also thrive in dark, shaded spaces and other low-light sections of the house, albeit more slowly.
- Relocating your plant too quickly from low light to direct sunlight will shock it. Try to avoid doing this. When relocating plants, do so gradually. Over the course of about a week, gradually expose the plant to stronger and brighter light. In warmer, brighter places, plants will require more water, so be sure to alter your watering practices accordingly.
- Keep the plant in an area that is warm (above 50°F) (10C). Make sure to shield it from drafty windows in the winter.
How to Care for Snake Plants
Overwatering is one of the most frequent issues with snake plants and other succulents. These plants frequently have root rot because they cannot tolerate wet soil well. Follow these watering guidelines to prevent this:
- Avoid watering too often. Between waterings, allow the soil to mostly dry out.
- Observe more than simply the appearance of the soil’s surface to determine when to water. Instead, carefully insert a wooden chopstick or your finger a few inches into the ground. Delay watering if you detect any wetness or if soil sticks to the chopstick.
- If at all feasible, use the pot’s bottom water. This promotes deep, downward root growth, which helps to support the thick, towering leaves.
- Water less frequently in the winter than in the spring and summer when the plant isn’t actively growing.
- The broad, flat leaves are prone to dust accumulation; if necessary, wipe them clean with a moist cloth.
- In ideal circumstances, snake plants grow quickly and may require dividing every year.
- In the spring, split and replant. Remove a part with roots and leaves and put it in a pot with potting soil that drains properly.
- A snake plant may occasionally flower if it is confined to a pot. On tall spikes, fragrant clusters of greenish-white flowers can be seen.
- The most typical species of snake plant is Sansevieria trifasciata. It has tall, dark-green leaves with alternating bands of light grayish-green.
- With “Bantel’s Sensation”
- Up to three feet long, narrow leaves contain white vertical lines. Finding this kind can be challenging.
- Sansevieria hannai
- In “Bird’s Nest,”
- A tight nest-like shape, resembling that of a bromeliad, is formed by short, broad, dark and light green leaves. Only 6 to 8 inches are grown on leaves. To thrive, this type does not require a lot of light.
- The “Golden Hahnii”
- Similar to the common “Bird’s Nest,” but with yellow-variegated leaf edges.
- Cylindric Sansevieria:
- called “Cylindrical Snake Plant”
- This type of snake plant has cylindrical leaves that finish in a sharp point, as the name would imply.
- called “Starfish Snake Plant”
- The cylindrical leaves of the starfish snake plant fan out from its base, giving it the appearance of a starfish.
- Masoniana Sansevieria
- A “Whale Fin”
- These fascinating snake plants have broad, huge leaves that mimic a whale breaching the surface of the water.
- According to reports, peace lilies, spider plants, and snake plants are highly effective in purifying the air by removing toxins like formaldehyde. To fully understand the breadth of these plants’ air-purifying potential, however, more research is required!
- A species of snake plant called Sansevieria trifasciata, which is indigenous to tropical Africa, produces a robust plant fiber that was originally utilized to construct hunting bow strings. It also goes by the term “Bowstring Hemp” because to this.
- The most frequent problem is overwatering-induced root rot.
- Remove any dead leaves and let the plant dry out more than usual if this happens. Snake plants are tough and usually bounce back. If the plant doesn’t improve, take it out of its container, throw away any rotten roots and leaves, and repot it in new soil.
Aloe—is it a succulent?
An easy-to-care-for, eye-catching succulent that grows well indoors is the aloe vera plant. Aloe vera plants are helpful as well because the juice from their leaves can be administered topically to treat the discomfort associated with burns and scrapes. How to cultivate and take care of aloe vera plants at home is provided here.
About Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is a species of succulent plant in the Aloe genus. The plant has thick, fleshy, greenish leaves that fan out from the stem at the center and is stemless or has extremely short stems. The leaf’s margin is toothed and serrated.
Be aware that you will require an area that delivers bright, indirect sunlight before you purchase an aloe (or artificial sunlight). If your aloe is located in an area that receives a lot of direct sunlight, you may need to water it more frequently because the plant might become overly dried up and develop yellow mushy leaves.
ALOE VERA LEAF GEL SHOULD NOT BE EATEN BY PEOPLE OR PETS. WARNING: Aloe vera leaf gel can be applied topically. It may even be harmful in higher doses and can result in unpleasant symptoms like nausea or indigestion.
Before Planting
- Selecting the appropriate kind of container is crucial. It is advised to choose a pot made of terra-cotta or another porous material since it will allow the soil to completely dry between waterings and be weighty enough to prevent the plant from toppling over. You may also use a plastic or glazed pot, but they’ll hold more moisture.
- Make sure you select a container with at least one drainage hole on the bottom when making your selection. This is crucial because the hole will let extra water drain away. Aloe vera plants are resilient, but poor draining can lead to rot and wilting, which is by far the most prevalent reason for this plant’s demise.
- Choose a container that is around the same width as it is deep. Choose a container that is deep enough to allow you to bury the full stem of your aloe plant if it has one.
- Use a well-draining potting mix, such as those designed for cactus and succulents, for aloe vera plants because they are succulents. Never use soil for gardening. Perlite, lava rock, bits of bark, or all three, should be used in an excellent mixture.
- There is no requirement for a layer of gravel, clay balls, or any other “drainage material in the bottom of the pot. Only space that the roots could have used is being taken up by this. A hole for drainage is sufficient drainage!
- Dust the plant’s stem with a rooting hormone powder before planting your aloe to help it produce new roots. Rooting hormone can be purchased online or at a nearby garden center or hardware store.
How to Plant (or Repot) an Aloe Vera Plant
It’s time to repot your aloe plant if it has become lanky, has become too big, or just needs an improvement. This is how:
- Get your pot ready. Place a tiny piece of screen over the drainage hole after fully drying the new pot and giving it a fast rinse (or a good scrub, if it’s a pot you’ve used before). This will prevent soil from falling out the bottom and will allow water to flow correctly. Although these will degrade over time, a piece of newspaper or paper towel folded twice can also be used in a pinch.
- Get your plant ready. Remove the aloe vera plant from its existing container and, taking care to avoid damaging the roots, brush away any extra dirt from the roots.
- If your plant has puppies, get rid of them right away. (For information on how to take out and pot pups, see the “Care” section of this page.)
- Trimming the stem can be done if your plant has an extremely long, spindly stem that won’t fit in the pot. Be aware that the plant could die if you do this. Trim the stem by cutting off a portion while keeping as much of it attached to the plant as you can. Take the naked plant next, and set it somewhere warm with indirect light. After a few days, the wound will develop a callus. Continue now with the repotting methods listed below.
- Establish your plant. Place your plant in the soil after filling the pot with potting soil that drains properly approximately a third of the way. Remember to leave at least 3/4 of an inch of space between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot when you fill in the soil around the plant. The aloe plant’s bottom leaves should also be barely visible above the ground. After planting, stop watering.
- Neglect your plant (temporarily). Don’t water your aloe for at least a week after putting it in its new pot. This will lessen the possibility of rot and give the plant more time to grow new roots. Keep the plant in a warm location with bright but indirect light until it appears to be rooted and content.
How to Care for an Aloe Vera Plant
- Lighting: Use artificial light or direct, bright sunlight. The best window is one facing west or south. Low-light aloe plants can get lanky.
- Aloe vera thrives at temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (13 and 27C). Most flats and residences have comfortable temperatures. You can bring your plant outside without issue from May to September, but if the nights are chilly, bring it back inside.
- Fertilizing: Use a balanced houseplant formula blended at half strength only in the spring and summer, and fertilize infrequently (no more than once a month).
- Repotting: When the roots become bound, repotted using the guidelines in “Planting, above.
Watering Aloe Vera
The hardest part of maintaining good aloe vera is watering, but it’s really not that complicated. Although the aloe is a succulent plant used to dry conditions, its thick leaves nevertheless require enough water.
- Aloe vera plants need deep, but intermittent, watering. To put it another way, the soil should feel damp after watering, but you should let it partially dry out before you water it again. The roots of the plant may rot if the soil is kept excessively moist.
- Allow the top third of the potting soil to dry out between waterings to make sure you aren’t overwatering your plant. For instance, if your plant is housed in 6 inches of potting soil, wait until the top 2 inches are completely dry before giving it another drink. (Check the soil’s dryness with your finger.)
- Typically, you should water your aloe plant every two to three weeks in the spring and summer and even less frequently in the fall and winter. One general guideline for watering in the fall and winter is to roughly double the intervals between waterings (as compared to your summer watering schedule). In other words, water every four weeks in the winter instead of every two weeks in the summer.
- When watering, some extra water could leak out the pot’s bottom. So that the soil may absorb as much of the water as possible, let the pot stand in it. After waiting 10 to 15 minutes, discard any leftover water.
Removing & Replanting Aloe Vera Offsets (Pups)
Offsets, also known as plantlets, pups, or “babies,” are frequently produced by mature aloe vera plants and can be removed to create a completely new plant (a clone of the mother plant, technically).
- Utilizing pruning shears, scissors, or a sharp knife, locate the locations where the offsets are linked to the mother plant and remove them. Leave the offset with at least an inch of stem.
- For several days, let the offsets remain free of soil; this will allow the offset to develop a callus over the cut, helping to prevent it from rotting. During this stage, keep the offsets in a warm area with indirect light.
- Put the offsets in a typical succulent potting mix once they have developed calluses. The soil need to drain well.
- Place the freshly potted puppies in a bright area. Keep the soil on the dry side and wait at least a week before watering.