The echeveria (Echeveria spp.) is a slow-growing, drought-resistant succulent that hardly ever reaches heights or diameters greater than one foot. Echeverias, which are native to Central America, Mexico, and northwestern South America and are members of the Crassulaceae family, flourish in desert environments with full light.
The diverse echeveria cultivars typically come in blue-gray or gray-green hues. Echeveria plants have waxy leaves that can also be green or purple, and some cultivate amazing patterns. With clusters of bell-shaped flowers on tall stems, the majority of types bloom in the summer.
How large a plant is Echeveria?
Thick-leaved rosettes are the source of Echeveria species. The exterior of the leaves’ fleshy cuticles is covered in wax. The skin can be damaged and left with marks by the colorful leaves, which are frequently present. The Echeveria succulent plant grows slowly and typically doesn’t reach heights or widths greater than 12 inches (31 cm).
Native to Texas and Central America, the plants will survive brief bouts of moisture as long as they are given time to dry out before receiving additional water. They favor dry, arid climates. The best environment for growing Echeveria is a clay container without a coating so that water may evaporate. In addition, they require well-drained soil and full light.
The plants come in 150 different grown types, one of which is probably best for you.
Echeveria succulents grow how quickly?
The growth pace of your succulents will depend on where you plan to plant them and the varieties you choose.
For instance, the fastest-growing succulents, like Echeveria, can expand from a 2 inch plant to 6 to 8 inches in just a year, whilst the slowest-growing succulents, like Haworthias, might take up to a year or even longer. to increase in size from 2 to 5 inches.
I mentioned before that I couldn’t generalize about all succulents. It is already known that all succulents require time to mature. However, when considering succulents as a whole, some do develop more quickly than others.
Other factors that might have a big impact on the growth of the succulents include watering, sunlight or lack thereof, the soil they are planted in, and the season.
These plants go through stages throughout the year where they are either actively developing or dormant.
Echeveria develop quickly?
Until the String of Buttons plant develops roots, keep it in direct sunshine. Once the temperature remains over 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, move the plant outside (at least six months).
Under bright light, the leaves can be cut to size, but never trim more than one-third of a leaf at once because this would slow the plant’s already rapid growth.
They should be exposed to moderately bright indirect sunlight through an east-facing window where there isn’t an oppressive amount of summer heat that can stress them out.
Crassula Sarmentosa
The comet, also known as the Crassula Sarmentosa, is a quick-growing succulent that does well in humid, low-light environments.
During the winter, be sure to keep these plants in your greenhouse or sunroom because they thrive indoors.
In general, Crassula sarmentosa is resistant to pests and grows swiftly. These plants do need a lot of water and fertilizer, though. Always inspect the soil every day, and water when necessary.
A hot, humid summer climate is also preferred by the Crassula Sarmentosa, therefore avoid overwatering the plant throughout the winter.
If you want to propagate this species using clippings again the next growing season, just be careful not to overwater throughout the winter.
Crassula Ovata (Jade Plant)
The Jade Plant, also known as Crassula ovata, has long been seen as a sign of fortune and wealth.
This plant was used in the past in its native China to purge homes of evil spirits and promote harmony with nature.
They would stop lightning strikes when positioned outside near windows by absorbing any potential negative energy!
These plants stand out for their ability to withstand drought, which makes them a great option if you live somewhere where water isn’t constantly available.
Don’t forget to water your plants on a regular basis because the Crassula Ovata can grow up to 12 inches per year.
Cuttings from a healthy mother plant can be used to propagate the jade plant. Try putting them into tiny cups that are partially filled with perlite and half with water if you want more immediate enjoyment.
After around two weeks, the roots ought to develop properly. The containers in which your succulent cutting is kept must, nevertheless, have suitable drainage holes.
Echeveria Elegans
Succulents like the Echeveria elegans can reach heights of up to one foot. Its thick, meaty leaves and stems grow and flourish in the ideal amount of sunlight.
The succulent plant species Echeveria is distinguished by its huge size and quick rate of growth.
Because they prefer a lot of direct sunlight but require just modest amounts of water, these Echeveria species are sometimes called as “sunshine” or “brightness.”
It is ideal for folks who are new to succulent gardening or want more of this resilient species at home because it is simple to reproduce by cuttings.
The flowers, on the other hand, bloom best in the summer, so if you’re eager to see these lovely blooms, you’ll have to wait till then!
Kalanchoe Daigremontiana (Mother of Thousands)
The succulent Kalanchoe daigremontiana grows quickly. It instantly covers any bare spot on the ground or stairway and makes a unique accent element for your outdoor area.
These plants are also known as Mother of Thousands because they spread quickly by creating pups that, once enough roots have formed, will eventually develop into their own plant.
It enjoys bright light but not direct sunshine and gets along well with tough plants like cacti.
By cutting the Kalanchoe daigremontiana plant into smaller pieces and placing them in a pot, new plants can be produced.
Kalanchoe Fedtschenkoi (Aurora Borealis)
The Kalanchoe fedtschenkoi can reach a height of two feet and has lovely red bracts grouped like the petals on a flower. Its leaves are light green.
It favors a place with direct sunlight and may grow in a variety of soil types as long as they are well-drained.
Winter months do not require much watering, however summer watering needs will vary depending on how hot it is where you live.
It can be multiplied by taking stem cuttings in the early spring or whenever fresh growth starts again following the fall of the succulent leaves.
Before the plant bears blooms from which you can harvest seeds, it needs some patience.
Sedum Makinoi
A succulent with a rapid growth rate is called Sedum makinoi. Its unique shape is complemented with spiky leaves and tiny white blooms. When fully grown, this plant will stand around three feet tall, so make sure you have enough room before planting because it needs a lot of space to spread out.
Make sure they are planted in a location with lots of sunlight because these succulents require a lot of it.
This cultivar has a reputation for withstanding drought. If these plants establish themselves sufficiently from their starting position, you won’t need to do much watering or maintenance.
Despite what many people believe, sedums do well indoors because they thrive in hot climates and struggle in temps below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Sedum Rubrotinctum (Jelly Bean Plant)
Fast-growing succulent with gorgeous, vivid green foliage, the jelly bean plant.
The plant can commonly reach heights of up to three feet and a width of up to two inches. However, this specific specimen can also be observed growing at a maximum height of eight inches.
The jelly bean plant is a fantastic addition to any garden with its reddish-orange leaves and bright yellow blossoms.
It is a versatile succulent that works well in rockeries as well as formal gardens. They produce a profusion of blossoms in just six months, making them an indoor plant that is simple to grow.
Sedum rubrotinctum grows best when combined with other low-maintenance plants, such as cactus, because it doesn’t require any water at all to survive.
Although it can take little shade, it prefers full light all year. Don’t be seduced by the alluring aroma of its petals since this tough little guy has been known to withstand years of drought without being watered.
Before providing extra water, let them get completely dry unless you want your other plants to perish as well!
By cutting the plant into portions with a sharp knife in the spring and replanting them, it is possible to multiply the jelly bean plant.
Senecio Haworthii (Cocoon Plant)
This can be the ideal option if you’re looking for a unique house plant that won’t take up a lot of room and can survive in low light.
The Cocoon Plant is an intriguing succulent that frequently forms a ball with several leaves stacked on top of one another.
The tiny, spherical, green or dark-red plants are widespread and only need a little water to thrive.
As its natural environment is among rocks and grass outside, where there is little moisture available, it thrives indoors where the soil might dry out quickly.
If your location doesn’t receive enough UVB rays from sunlight, you could need artificial lighting when the light levels inside decrease noticeably in the winter.
Cuttings from mature plants or stem offsets from Senecio haworthii can be used to spread the plant.
You can anticipate your new child to grow swiftly because this plant is among the fastest-growing succulents.
Senecio Rowleyanus (String of Pearls)
Some succulents grow so swiftly that it only takes a few weeks for them to transform from seedlings to mature plants.
Senecio Rowleyanus, popularly known as String of Pearls or snake plant, exhibits this due to its look and growth pattern.
It blooms twice a year in the spring, then produces autumnal blooms when it is about 18 inches tall and has reached maturity.
Due to its low moisture demand (less than 11 cm), this species needs little water, but it does need enough drainage, which should be provided by organic soil like peat moss blended with sand.
One of the succulents with the fastest rate of growth, the String of Pearls, will not only look lovely in your house but also contribute to creating a summery atmosphere throughout the year.
What Echeveria is the biggest?
The largest echeveria species, Echeveria gibbiflora, is one of the parent plants of most of the enormous, cabbage-head echeveria hybrids we are familiar with. Today, there are so many of these hybrids being grown that it is difficult to correctly identify them all or trace them back to the individuals who first created them (many are likely incidental crosses). Depending on their paternity, these hybrids differ widely in size, color, shape, and form. Since Echeveria gibbiflora is a species with a wide range of characteristics, the potential for novel hybrids is limitless.
The ubiquitous garden plant Echeveria “Imbricata,” a cross of E. secunda, a low-growing blue species that offsets profusely, is the first known E. gibbiflora hybrid ” (hence its common name, “Hens and Chicks). E. “Imbricata,” one of the most well-known succulents among gardeners, was bred in the late 19th century by a Frenchman named M. Deleuil. Nurseries frequently neglected growing E. “Imbricata” since it became so popular, but there is currently a significant demand for this “vintage hybrid One of the more cold-hardy E. gibbiflora hybrids, E. ‘Imbricata’ is adored by landscapers for its resilience.
The lovely Echeveria “Perle von Nurnberg,” a combination of Echeveria elegans and E. gibbiflora (a variety of the species with an especially purple hue), is another early E. gibbiflora hybrid. E. “Perle von Nurnberg,” created in Germany by collector R. Graessner in the 1930s, is still recognized as one of the most exquisite echeveria hybrids and is widely used in grocery shops and wedding bouquets in addition to the nursery industry. E. “Perle von Nurnberg,” which is a little more fragile than its relative, E. “Imbricata,” performs best in pots where it can be transferred in the event of frost or intense heat.
Many novel E. gibbiflora hybrids have been produced since the middle of the 20th century by growers, collectors, and horticulturists. Look at the Echeveria ‘Mauna Loa’ for an example of the striking and varied results: bumps, curls, and every color imaginable, sometimes all on one plant. The most stunning E. gibbiflora hybrids we see today were created by California-based echeveria enthusiasts Dick Wright, Frank Reinelt, and Harry Butterfield. Due of the beauty and diversity of the genus, echeveria hybridization is still occurring in modern times and is not likely to end any time soon.
What is the lifespan of an Echeveria?
Sempervivum is an illustration of a succulent that, rather than having a long existence, lives on through its progeny. Although this plant, often known as hen and chicks, reproduces readily, it only has a three- to four-year lifespan per plant.
Aloe’s life duration varies greatly according on the species, although the majority of species last between 5 and 20 years. Aloe plants, as opposed to Agave, are polycarpic, which allows them to bloom continuously over the course of their lifespan.
Depending on the species, Echeveria can live anywhere from three to four years to more than ten years under the correct circumstances. Echeveria have the capacity to bloom again during their lives.
Step One
Pick healthy leafy plants. When you begin with a healthy mother plant and healthy leaves, your chances of success are higher. Instead of dried and flat leaves, search for full, plump leaves. Select leaves that are evenly colored and free of any stains, blemishes, or markings. Use only leaves that are not ripped, torn, damaged, or irregularly shaped. Remove the leaves off the stem gently.
Step Two
Your thumb and forefinger should be used to carefully twist the leaves from the stem. Some leaves are loosely linked to the stem while others are securely attached. To remove the entire leaf, gently wriggle it back and forth.
The entire leaf, including the base where it connects to the stem, is what you desire. The leaf won’t survive if the base does not separate or if it sustains harm.
Step Three
When employing this method of propagation, it is better to use more than one leaf because you might not have a 100 percent success rate. Pick a few wholesome leaves, then spread them out to dry. Await the healing of the leaf wounds. This can take anything from a day or two to a week or so. At the leaf’s base, where it separated from the stem, a callus or scab will develop. Throughout this procedure, the leaves must be kept in a dry, warm, and shaded area. Before putting the leaves in potting soil, they must be dry and calloused; otherwise, they would rot and perish.
Step Four
Sprinkle rooting hormone on the leaves (optional). This is not required. In none of my propagations have I ever applied a rooting hormone. The calloused leaf end should be dipped into the rooting hormone before being promptly inserted into a suitable potting mix.
To secure the leaf, compact the earth around it. The use of a rooting hormone is optional, so you are free to omit this step if you like. Simply insert the calloused end of the leaf, unaided by a rooting hormone, directly into the potting mix.
Instead of burying the leaves in the soil, spread them out on a bed of suitable potting soil. This is the approach I took. To make room for fresh plant growth, leave some gap between the leaves.
Step Five
Avoid the sun’s direct rays. Keep the leaf cuttings out of direct sunlight as you wait for them to take root. You can place them in a shaded area away from full sun. Leaf cuttings exposed to full sun or direct sunlight will shrivel and burn.
Step Six
Spray the leaves with water from a bottle. If your area has a dry environment, mist the soil every few days or perhaps every day. Mist the soil every few days or until it feels dry if you reside in an area with a more humid environment and the soil remains wet.
Roots will begin to spread. You may start to notice tiny pink roots emerging from the wound after around four weeks. This might be simpler to see if you lay the leaves flat on the ground. If the cut end of the leaves is buried in the ground, you won’t be able to see the roots unless you dig them up.
To keep the emerging roots from drying out, you can cover them with a thin layer of soil. Keep misting the soil every few days or if it becomes dry.
A new plant with its own leaves eventually appears where the roots are growing after about four weeks or more. This may require a few weeks to several months. The leaf you used to spread the plant will naturally begin to wither.
You have the option of gently twisting the leaf off or letting it fall off naturally. Be careful not to harm the baby roots when removing the mother leaf. Every few days or when the earth is dry, you keep missing the young plants.
Step Seven
Embrace the new plant. It’s time to move the succulent into its own pot when the baby plant becomes bigger and the mother leaf starts to wilt. Gently remove the withered mother leaf from the new plant if it is still present.
Use a good potting mix to transplant the young plant into its own container. Perlite and cactus mix were used.
Step Eight
Keep the young plants out of direct sunshine. Because they are still young and fragile, the new plants cannot withstand full sun. To prevent scorching the young plant, place it in a shady or partially shaded spot away from direct sunshine.
Step Nine
Up until they form roots, succulent cuttings require a little bit more water than mature plants. Every few days or anytime the soil feels dry, you can lightly water or mist the soil. When the plant is more established, water it according to your usual succulent plant care regimen, allowing the soil to dry out in between.
These new baby plants might result from leaf cutting propagation in large quantities. From a single leaf, you can occasionally grow more than one plant.