Can I Repot Succulents In Autumn

There will come a time when you need to repot, or maybe you just want to remove it out of its plain pot and put it in something prettier, even though many succulents and cacti actually like a tight pot. But how do you tell when to repot a cactus or succulent? Here are a few indicators:

  • If the roots are visible and closely clustered or protruding from the drainage holes
  • If, when irrigated, the water simply rests on the soil’s surface without permeating it
  • when the plant appears to be too large for the pot
  • Or if the soil has degraded to the point that it dries up too soon or separates from the pot’s sides.

Repotting should be done at least every two years in order to give new, fertile soil. For the greatest chance of survival, repotting should be done right at the start of the growing season for succulents. For the majority of situations, early spring is ideal; however, some do begin to grow in the fall or winter.

Succulents can be potted in the fall.

No, is the response. When a plant is dormant, it is still alive but not actively growing. Repotting them at risk could interfere with their growth cycle and do some damage to your succulents. Since most succulents become dormant in the summer or the winter, spring and fall are ideal times to undertake some repotting. Repotting winter-dormant succulents in the spring will give them time to adjust to the new pot and soil before growth season, whereas repotting summer-dormant succulents in the fall.

To ensure the soil is new and rich and that the plant has adequate room to grow, you should typically repot your succulents every two years. Another vital aspect you should consider is timing. Repotting should be done during the plant’s active growth period, which is typically spring or summer, to minimize damage to the plant and increase its chances of surviving.

The plant & its requirements for sun

The majority of succulents with spines and needles (like cactus) can tolerate intense heat. Succulents with fleshy leaves thrive in “cooler, less intense sun. When I lived in SB (along the coast of California), my succulent plants did well in direct sunlight. My fleshy succulents need to thrive in bright shade here in Tucson or they will burn. Everyone thrives when shielded from the intense desert sun in the afternoon.

The location

This is related to what was said above. Cacti shouldn’t be grown in the shadow, either indoors or outside, and fleshy succulents shouldn’t be grown in the scorching sun.

On the covered side patio, my pencil cactus, which had reached a height of nearly 12 inches, was on the verge of hitting the ceiling. It required staking because it frequently blew over. In order to allow it to grow however it pleases, I transplanted it to the rear garden (where we can still see it from the patio).

The best time of year to plant succulents

The best seasons to plant, transplant, or repot succulents are spring and summer. Early fall is ok for me because I live in a region with mild winters. Your succulents won’t perish if you move them over the winter. Just be aware that now isn’t the best time and that you might want to wait till spring.

The soil mix for succulents:

I utilize a Tucson-only organic succulent and cactus mix that is locally created. Composed of pumice, coconut coir chips, and compost, it is quite chunky, drains well, and is very coarse. When planting, I also generously add a couple handfuls of compost, and I top the pot with 1/8 worm compost.

When should succulents be repotted?

Evergreen succulents have always captured my heart. Succulents are low maintenance plants that thrive in containers because to their unusual forms and thick leaves; I have a large collection of these well-liked varieties.

Repotting succulents every two years is a good general rule of thumb, if only to give them access to new, fertile soil. The beginning of a succulent’s growing season is the optimal time to repot it because it provides the plant its best chance of surviving. My gardeners, Ryan and Wilmer, took advantage of the snowy weather earlier this week to repot many succulent plants and propagate a variety of cuttings. Here are some pictures of the steps we took.

In times of drought, succulents, sometimes known as fat plants, store water in their fleshy leaves, stems, or stem-root systems. Because of their eye-catching shapes, succulents are frequently planted as attractive plants.

I needed to repot a few of the succulents in my collection either they had outgrown their pots or I wanted to relocate them into more attractive clay containers.

He stamps my name and the year the pot was produced on the reverse side. When I host big events in my home, they invariably look fantastic.

To aid in drainage, a clay shard is placed over the hole. Additionally, I like using clay pots because they permit adequate aeration and moisture to reach the plant via the sides.

We always keep the shards from broken pots; it’s a fantastic method to use those parts again.

Wilmer carefully takes a succulent from its pot without damaging any of the roots.

Wilmer then conducts a meticulous test to determine if the pot is the proper size for the plant. He picks a pot just a hair bigger than the plant’s original container.

Prills are the name for osmocote particles. A core of nutrients composed of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is covered by the prill’s beige shell.

For the finest drainage, we mix equal parts of sand, perlite, and vermiculite for succulents. The correct soil mixture will also aid in promoting rapid root growth and provide young roots with quick anchoring.

Wait a few days before watering the succulents after repotting to give them time to become used to the new soil.

Wilmer shifts to the following plant. This one too need a little maintenance attention. He picked up any fallen leaves.

In order to promote new development, Wilmer lightly pruned the roots after manually loosening the root ball.

Wilmer inserted the plant into the pot after adding some Osmocote and a little amount of potting soil.

The pale blue-gray leaves of Echevaria runyonii ‘Topsy turvy’ curve upward, are prominently inversely keeled on the bottom surface, and have leaf tips that point inward toward the center of the plant.

Echeverias are among the most alluring succulents, and plant aficionados greatly respect them for their brilliant colors and lovely rosette shapes.

An aeonium is a succulent with rosette-like leaves that grows quickly. Aeonium is a varied genus that includes little or medium-sized plants, stemless or shrub-like, and plants that favor sun or shade.

Succulents should be placed on a table so that they can get enough of natural light even when the sun isn’t shining directly on their pots.

Moreover, propagation is fairly simple. Here, Ryan uses sharp pruners to cut a three to four-inch portion of stem off the mother plant.

There should be about a half-inch of stem showing. A handful of them are ready to be planted here.

Ryan provides plenty of space for the plants. There will be plenty to use in mixed urns during the summer if all of these take root and grow into succulent plants. Four to six weeks following planting, new growth should start to show, at which point each plant should be repotted independently.

Inside my main greenhouse, all of my priceless plant collections are kept on long, sliding tables. They all have such lovely looks. Which succulents are your favorites? Please share your feedback in the spaces below.

How should I care for my succulents over the winter?

Before you even plant your succulent in your yard, this is the easiest way to find out if it will survive the winter in your region. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is referenced on the labels of the majority of plants that are sold in retailers. The label will indicate whether or not the plant will survive the winter depending on the zone you live in. The zones are separated by a difference of 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in their lowest annual temperature. There is minimal likelihood that it will survive the winter in that area if your zone is lower than the recommended zone on the label.

Tip #2: Bring Them Indoors

Bring your succulent indoors during the winter even if it is in the right climate zone. Even though sudden temperature dips are uncommon, one chilly night is all it takes to harm your plants. They can be kept in your garage if the temperature there doesn’t fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t forget to give them three to four hours of indirect sunshine each day. Checking for insects like mealybugs and aphids is a crucial factor. Spray the leaves with a mixture of 1 part water and 3 parts rubbing alcohol to kill the bugs because you don’t want them inside your house.

Although it’s frequently overlooked, preparing your put for indoor play is crucial as well. Your succulents’ containers are probably a little muddy if they have been playing hard outside. To prevent them from spreading around your home when you transfer things inside, first clear the pot of any dead leaves and other debris. Second, clean off any extra dirt from your pot; you want a clean transition from the inside to the outside! Lastly, look for bugs. Creepy crawlies taking over your house is the last thing you need. You should be well on your way to your indoor succulents thriving after following those three steps.

Tip #3: Reduce Watering in the Late Fall

Winter is the period when succulents go dormant, so watering is even less necessary. So once the weather becomes colder and the days get shorter, stop watering them. Reduce it to once a month, but you should also check the soil’s moisture content first before watering. When the ground is entirely dry, only do it. It only takes a good five minutes to water. To prevent succulents from dying from moist roots, check that the soil has excellent drainage. Sand or organic matter with good drainage should be added to the soil for indoor plants. Mulch shouldn’t be used near the base of outside plants since it can trap moisture.

Before you fully stop watering your succulents, here’s a short tip: identify them! Winter is when most succulents go dormant, however some are winter growers. The plants that don’t go dormant will require more water than the others. Keep an eye on things at least to prevent your freshly indoor succulents from becoming overly dry. (Succulents will dry out more quickly than others if they are close to vents or heaters.

Tip #4: Sunlight

When putting your succulents indoors, sunlight is absolutely crucial! Making sure they receive adequate sunlight in the winter is challenging. To get the most indirect light, place your succulents close to your home’s brightest window. Try to provide succulents with at least 6 hours of sunshine each day for the healthiest results. They’ll begin to slant toward the window if you’re not providing them with adequate sunshine. Simply turn them the other way to straighten them out.

Tip #5: Cover Up Your Succulents

If you are unable to bring the plants inside due to impending cold weather, you can cover them with various forms of protection. Snow covers are beneficial because they provide protection from snow, frost, and strong winds. You can buy them from your neighborhood garden supply store or online. Bushel baskets can be used to cover and safeguard succulents if you have any lying about. Just be cautious not to leave them covered for an extended period of time. The plants require ample sunlight and clean airflow.

These straightforward suggestions can help you keep your succulents happy and healthy throughout the winter. Give your friends and neighbors the information so they can preserve their succulent plants as well!

My succulent died after being replanted; why?

Transplant shock is the cause of your succulent’s death after being replanted. The stress of a new environment can cause succulents to droop, turn yellow, brown, or black, and eventually die back when they are repotted because of the contrast in the soil medium, moisture levels, and lighting conditions.

Succulents are adaptive and develop adapted to a certain set of conditions, so when they are unexpectedly repotted or relocated to a different location, they frequently show indications of stress.

Can Echeveria be potted in the winter?

When should I repot my succulents? This is crucial since not all succulents are made equal, and it will influence your level of success.

Succulents exist in a variety of varieties, and while they all demand similar growing conditions, some of them dormant while others do not. When repotting them, this dormancy should be taken into account.

Succulents are opportunistic growers that may adapt to their surroundings and control their development as needed.

Adenium, Echeveria, and Sempervivums are summer growers that do not actively grow in the winter. The optimum time to repot them is in the spring when they are actively growing.

Repotting winter growers like Aeonium, Haworthia, and Pachyphytum should be done in the fall when they are most active. Repotting a succulent while it is dormant could interrupt the plant’s resting phase and prevent it from developing again.

Although it is most convenient in the spring, repottering succulents that don’t go dormant can be done at any time of the year (3).

How do you know if the plant is root-bound?

It could be challenging to tell if your succulents have already become root-bound because you can easily inspect only the top half of them. What you can do is keep an eye out for symptoms like roots poking through the drain holes in the container, dry soil, and yellowing of the leaf (1).