Succulents CAN be propagated in the winter, and it doesn’t have to be difficult. I accidentally discovered a pretty simple method for doing it that required no special tools or resources. Here is what transpired.
My plants spend the winter on a lovely ledge that is adjacent to my south-facing window. I came across a fallen succulent leaf with roots and fresh growth one day.
It dropped from the plant and landed on the frame of the neighboring window. The leaf absorbed moisture from condensation on the window in this sunny but chilly location.
I was curious when I discovered it sprouting on the window sill. I was curious to see if this was an anomaly or something that will consistently work.
I then added some more that had fallen from others to the window frame. It certainly did work! They began to sprout new growth after a few weeks, and the roots grew more substantial.
Woohoo!! My new technique for propagating succulents in the winter will be this.
Can you reproduce during the winter?
Have you ever wondered if you may reproduce plants in the winter when performing a winter dormancy pruning? It is possible to propagate in the winter. Try reproducing plants from the cuttings in the winter instead of throwing them in the compost or yard trash bin.
Which season is ideal for succulent propagation?
While propagation can be done all year round, Kremblas suggests that you’ll get the best results in the spring and summer when succulents are actively growing. When your succulents start to get “leggy,” many people decide to propagate. Some succulents lose their dense, bushy structure as they grow older and strive for the sunlight. By pruning the plant, you can keep it in form and propagate new plants from these cuttings.
What temperature is ideal for succulent plant propagation?
In temperate climates, succulents thrive. Succulents grow best when the temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Finding the ideal temperatures for your succulents can help you decide when to reproduce them. It may not be simple to find the temperature tolerance for all the different succulents available.
The optimal conditions for propagating succulents are when the temperature is between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Your succulents’ leaves and roots may become sunburnt and harmed by high temperatures and the effects of sun exposure.
If you live in a warm region, you might want to think about planting your succulents in the ground rather than containers throughout the summer. Do this because, despite fluctuations in temperature, the soil’s temperature remains largely constant underground.
If you must proliferate in a container, it is best to stay away from glass and metal containers and choose ones made of materials that will shield your succulents from unexpected temperature changes. With the help of this ceramic succulent planter pot with drainage holes, you may begin propagating succulents this summer.
Prepare succulents for indoor living
Spray your succulents with a surface pesticide before bringing them inside. To ensure that your succulents are pest-free, this preparation should take place at least 3 weeks before their indoor adaption. By doing this, you can stop insects and other pests from spreading to your indoor plants.
After clearing the garbage, weeds, and leaves, look for any indications of an infestation. Change the soil if you notice flies gathering around the succulents. When you bring them inside your home, they will quickly spread to the neighboring plants if you don’t.
Make sure your succulent is in a pot with a drainage hole and well-draining soil. Because outdoor environments frequently have better airflow, a good soil mixture is essential for indoor growing of succulents. Succulents need good air circulation to maintain healthy roots. To improve drainage, you can also add pumice or perlite to the potting medium.
In addition to these actions, gradually cut back on the watering of your succulents. The plants will go into dormancy and be able to endure the harsh winter with the help of less water and a lower temperature.
Bring the succulents inside 
Stop watering your indoor succulents and allow the soil to dry up. Water them lightly during the winter, just enough to prevent dehydration. Ensure that the temperature is consistently between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Providing enough light for succulents in the winter is another factor to take into account for indoor adaption. If your succulents have been kept outdoors for a while, they may have grown accustomed to regular exposure to intense light. It’s better to replicate their growing environment indoors. A sunny windowsill can provide 6–8 hours of bright light in warm zones 9–11, but in places with little sunlight, you might want to consider obtaining a succulent growth lamp.
Fluorescent lighting will promote healthy, stress-free plant growth, especially for non-dormant succulents.
What temperature is too low for succulents?
Whether a succulent is a soft or hard succulent determines what temperature it can withstand.
Anything warmer than 32 degrees F will be enjoyable for soft succulents. preferably over 40 degrees.
These plants cannot endure colder than freezing temperatures. Their hefty, thick leaves, which serve as water reservoirs, will freeze and destroy the plant.
Succulents that can withstand the cold can sustain -20 F. The best it can manage is a zone 4 to 5, and let me tell you, that is very impressive.
You must keep in mind that even if they can withstand temperatures below zero, they still like dry soil. That remains constant.
The majority of winters in the contiguous US will not only be dry but also wet and snowy.
How long does it take cuttings to root in the winter?
Many plants can be multiplied over the winter. Since the nursery is more peaceful in the winter, we frequently take cuttings then. Most people may believe that it’s too cold to take cuttings during the winter, however there are many plant species for which winter is the ideal time to propagate.
We always use a perlite and peat moss mixture when harvesting plant cuttings. Many of the wintertime cuttings might be directly planted in soil or a mixture of soil and sand. We specialize in plant propagation, thus we can confidently state that cuttings inserted into perlite and peat moss will yield better results.
You might as well use what the experts use since perlite and peat moss are so cheap. We combine 1 component peat moss with 9 parts perlite. We prefer to place the mixture onto a seedling tray, but you could also use a pot or any other well-draining container.
The most typical winter cuttings are made from deciduous trees and shrubs. Food crops that fall under this category include blackberries (we prefer the thornless variety), mulberries, blueberries, kiwi fruit, nectarines, peaches, apricots, and a plethora of other varieties.
Then there are well-known deciduous decorative trees and shrubs like maples, roses, hydrangeas, and wisteria. But there are numerous evergreens that can be successfully grown as winter cuttings in addition to deciduous trees and shrubs.
We frequently cut Buxus (box plant), Bay trees, Climbing jasmine, Portugal laurel, and Camellias during the winter. Fast-growing perennial flowers that can be cultivated in the winter include seaside daisies, Bradyscome, Scaevola, violets, and many others.
Protection
Providing protection from the elements will improve the performance of all cuttings. Cuttings are quite susceptible to drying out during the roots process. The cuttings are still fragile even though it is winter.
Even in chilly winter winds, cuttings can be dried very fast by wind. Your cuttings will become dried out by frosts. A little stem, such as a cutting, may shrivel up and die when a frost draws out the moisture from the stem and causes it to freeze.
Some people like to use plastic wrap to protect their cuttings. I believe that doing this on a small scale, such in a pot or even seedling trays, leaves the region too sensitive to extreme temperature swings. There isn’t enough airflow in the small space, which might breed fungus and sickness.
A more open, protected location with good ventilation is what I greatly like. That’s our poly tunnel, however I’ve also used the porch and the windowsill in the kitchen. Cold frames are yet another excellent choice. You’re OK to go as long as the location is sufficiently lit, frost-free, well ventilated, and gives wind protection.
Bottom heat
To encourage rapid root growth, many seasoned gardeners may provide bottom heat to their cuttings. Heat mat utilization is now quite economical for the backyard gardener.
By using bottom heat, we can mimic the warming of the soil that occurs in spring. The plants can be made to believe spring has arrived and it is time to begin growing by applying heat to the bottom of the cutting.
Some plants, like blueberries, actually require that bottom heat in order to make healthy cuttings.
Water
How frequently people should water their cuttings is a common question. There isn’t truly a universal solution. I believe that watering cuttings in the winter is more difficult than watering them in the summer.
The cuttings can essentially be watered every day without any problems throughout the summer. It’s far more difficult to gauge winter. Since the weather is obviously considerably colder, cuttings typically obtained in the winter will establish roots much more slowly.
Overwatering is a danger as a result. Cuttings that are overwatered will start to decay or grow fungus. Maintaining moist (not wet!) perlite, peat moss, or other media is key. Additionally, I advise against misting the cuttings.
Summertime is a good season to mist the cuttings because the water will quickly evaporate and won’t sit on the cutting for very long. Since the water doesn’t evaporate in the winter, fungus outbreaks are once more possible.
Another irrigation advice is to water only on bright, sunny mornings. Once more, this is to prevent the cuttings from being kept damp for too long. They might not dry until the following day if you water them in the afternoon or on cloudy days. It’s been way too long.
Keep in mind to just moisten the mixture the cuttings are placed in, not the cuttings themselves. This will considerably increase the likelihood of success and prevent any illness, rot, or fungus.
Time frame
Winter means that it takes much longer for the cuttings to strike. On a cutting taken during the winter, roots will typically take 2-4 months to form. Temperatures and lighting are to blame for this.
Most plants are able to determine the season based on the light. Most plants will start to produce new growth as the days get longer; at this point, our winter cuttings will also start to move.
With this knowledge, it may be tempting to put off taking cuttings until the end of the winter. However, in my experience, it is preferable to allow the buds to form in the propagation mix rather than on the tree or shrub.
My argument is that because the cutting is aware of its situation, it must first produce roots before it can develop. An early-spring cutting that was once linked to the shrub or tree and had a deep root system is now free of roots because the temperature has warmed up. I worry that this might cause too much shock and a far less successful cutting.
Keep in mind that providing bottom heat might also assist in convincing the cuttings that spring has arrived. Growing lights are another tactic some propagators employ; we don’t personally utilize them. Our winters aren’t too long because our climate is mild enough.
How should cuts be taken during the winter?
Many annual plants’ cuttings survive the winter, develop roots, and are prepared for planting in the spring. They can be put in non-draining pots or cups filled with damp perlite or vermiculite. Find them first in a well-lit area away from the sun. Later, relocate to a location where they will get morning sun.
Alternatively, depending on the type of plant, you can leave the cuttings lay for a few hours to a few days to allow them to calluse. Another approach is to spray a rooting hormone on the bottoms to promote root formation. Then plant in a soil that drains well.
Cut a young branch young, 2 to 6 inches (5-15 cm) below a node or under a group of leaves. Make sure it’s active. Starting at the bottom and working your way up the stem, remove the leaves. Before planting in soil, let the plant callus, especially if it’s a succulent, or use rooting hormone (or even cinnamon). The roots of some cuttings can be established in water first (note).
Some sources advise using a plastic tent to protect the cuttings, but it’s not always necessary. Although it can make your clippings burn if the sun hits them, it will aid with moisture retention. Your cuttings will probably root either way.
What time of year is ideal for cutting propagation?
In general, cuttings should be made from the most recent or current season’s growth. If at all possible, stay away from items containing flower buds. When preparing cuttings, remove any flowers and flower buds so that the energy of the cutting can be used to produce new roots rather than blossoms. Take cuttings, ideally from the top of the plant, from healthy, disease-free plants.
Rooting may be influenced by the stock plant’s (parent) reproductive state. Avoid taking cuttings from plants that exhibit signs of nutritional deficit in minerals. On the other hand, plants that have received a lot of fertilizer, especially nitrogen, might not root properly. There shouldn’t be any moisture stress on the stock plant. Cuttings from young plants typically root more frequently than cuttings from older, more mature plants. Often, lateral shoot cuttings take root more readily than terminal shoot cuttings.
Because the plant is fully turgid in the morning, this is the ideal time to take cuttings. The cuttings must be kept cool and moist until they are adhered. Cuttings can be kept in an ice chest or a dark plastic bag with moist paper towels. If attaching cuttings will take some time, put them in a plastic bag and put the bag in the fridge.
Even though the tastiest parts of the stem are the terminal ones, a long shoot can be cut into many cuttings. Typically, cuttings are 4 to 6 inches long. Use pruning shears or a pocket knife with a thin, sharp blade. To avoid spreading infections from diseased plant parts to healthy ones, immerse the cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, if necessary.
Leaves should be taken off of the lower third to half of the cutting (Figure 4). To save space and lessen water waste on large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be chopped in half. Species that are challenging to root should be hurt.
Some plants that could be hard to root without assistance can benefit from root-promoting treatments applied to cuttings. Before handling cuttings, place some rooting hormone in a different container to prevent any contamination of the entire supply. Any substance that is still present after treatment ought to be thrown away rather than put back in its original container. When using a powder formulation, be sure to tap the cuttings to eliminate extra hormone.
To ensure adequate aeration, the rooting medium must be sterile, low in fertility, and well-drained. Additionally, it need to retain adequate moisture to prevent excessive watering requirements. Commonly utilized materials include coarse sand, peat and sand, or a mixture of one part peat and one part perlite (by volume) (by volume). Vermiculite should not be used on its own since it tends to compress and retain too much moisture. While being utilized, media should be hydrated.
Insert the cuttings into the medium between one-third and one-half of their length. Keep the stem’s vertical orientation (do not insert the cuttings upside down). Ensure that the buds are pointing upward. Just enough space should be left between cuttings for all of the leaves to receive sunlight. If the containers or frames are 3 inches or deeper, water them once more after inserting the cuttings. Place the cuttings in indirect light and cover with plastic. Stay out of the sun. To ensure that the cuttings take root, keep the medium wet. Regular misting of the cuttings will help them root better.
The type of cutting, the species being rooted, and the environmental factors all affect how long it takes to establish roots. Broadleaf plants need less time than conifers. Conifers can be rooted well in the late autumn or early winter. They can stay in the rooting structure until spring if they have rooted.
Cuttings that have just taken root shouldn’t be placed outside right away. Transplant them into a bed or into pots as an alternative. Before relocating them permanently, growing them to a larger size will improve their chances of surviving.
Figure 4. Cut away the lower third to half of the cutting and remove the leaves.