Not only warm climes are suitable for a succulent garden outside! Check out what you can accomplish with succulents planted in the ground in four-season regions.
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In contrast to southern California’s sunny environment, where there are many beautiful succulent gardens, Utah’s four-season climate makes it more difficult to find outdoor succulent gardens.
The two main types of succulents that can withstand freezing temperatures are Stonecrop Sedums and Sempervivums, also known as hens and chicks. Most animals can survive at temperatures as low as –20 °F.
In order to maintain a stunning outdoor succulent garden year-round, even when there is snow on the ground, I have been developing a variety of arrangements using only cold-hardy succulents.
You’ll see affiliate connections to Mountain Crest Gardens for the many succulents I utilized for these projects all throughout this post.
I received a lot of succulents for free, but my favorite succulents are from Mountain Crest, and I wholeheartedly suggest them to everyone! Nowhere else will you find a finer collection of resilient succulents.
In the movies below, you’ll see a wide variety of succulent collections and items, but I wanted to make it simple for you to see them all at once, so here is a list of the things I used to produce these succulent landscapes:
THE IMPACT OF TEMPERATURES ON SUCCULENTS
Succulents typically prefer climates with temperatures between 60 and 80 °F. Some people can withstand temperatures as high as 90°F or as low as 40°F. These severe temperatures are occasionally used by gardeners to “stress” their succulents into changing color. Many succulents, especially soft succulents, can often benefit from high temperatures between 80°F and 90°F to keep their beautiful hues. You’ll notice that many hues will start to get more intense when the temps fall (but remain over 40F). The chilly (but not freezing) temperatures over a prolonged period of time intensify these colors. Be mindful that your succulents can suffer from temperatures that are too high or too low. Never recommend a temperature of 40°F or greater than 90°F.
Your succulents may suffer from sunburn in the summer due to the combination of high temperatures and direct sunlight, which can harm both the leaves and the root systems. You should move your succulents to a shaded place during the warmest part of the day or cover them with shade cloth. People who reside in regions with extremely hot climates might think about planting their succulents directly into the ground as opposed to in containers since soil temperatures remain largely stable regardless of fluctuations in the weather. If you want to grow succulents in containers, pick materials like concrete, terracotta, ceramic, or wood that are excellent at protecting plants from rapid temperature changes. Avoid using metal and glass containers.
Keep the temperature above freezing to prevent frost damage to your succulents over the winter. You can do this by covering them with a cloth or bringing them inside. While some tropical species like Euphorbia and Lithops demand temperatures of at least 50-60F, some cold-hardy species, like Sempervivum, can endure frost and love cool temps from 30 to 40F. Check out the Hardiness information on each of our plant product pages, where we provide thorough information on the USDA Hardiness Zone for each plant, to discover precisely whether a certain succulent variety is suitable for the climate in your location.
Succulents can they endure frost?
Yes, it is the answer. Although certain succulents can withstand frost, they are frequently thought of as drought-tolerant plants. They flourish in chilly, snowy conditions, and the extreme cold even brings out their magnificent, vivid colors. They are referred to as “Hard Succulents.” Sempervivum, Sedum, and Euphorbias genera contain some of the most hardy succulents. You may plant such succulents outside all year round because the majority of them can withstand temperatures as low as -20F (Hardiness Zone 5).
“Soft Succulents” are another group of succulents that are more susceptible to frost. When the weather drops below freezing, they must be winterized inside.
Should I protect my succulents from the cold?
Succulents that are native to warm, arid climes can perish in wet soil, dim light, high humidity, and freezing temperatures. You can use these products to protect your succulents from the harsh, wet winters in North America. (Advertising connections.)
You could just require frost cloth if you live somewhere where frost is sporadic. (Old bed sheets also function.) This helps keep warm air from dispersing into the higher atmosphere and stops ice crystals from falling from the atmosphere from falling on plants. Don’t cover your succulents with plastic sheets that resemble trash bags; whatever material you use should let air to circulate. If plants are covered for extended periods of time, translucent cloth is a must. However, removing the frost cloth throughout the day is ideal.
Below: This 6-by-50-foot, reusable “winterization fabric freeze blanket” from DeWitt. $28 or so on Amazon.
Floating row covers made by Agribon and Pellon nonwoven fabric can both be used. Spun nylon, often known as “floating row cover,” is similar to fusible interfacing but lacks the fusible component. It can be used as a sunscreen, insect barrier (against cabbage moths, etc.), and frost protection. It is permeable to water and allows vapor to pass through. It will provide protection from -2 to -4 degrees below zero. Use C-9 Christmas light strings for added warmth.
Succulents that are in pots can be covered or moved to an overhang till spring. Depending on how cold it gets, beneath your home’s eaves or on a deck or patio (near the house) may be sufficient. The warmth that walls give out may be sufficient to elevate the temperature above freezing.
Consider purchasing a compact walk-in greenhouse that can be disassembled and stored during the warmer months if you live somewhere where the temperature drops into the 20s. Put it in a location where a portable electric heater’s cord may reach from your home.
If you must (or choose to) keep your succulents inside for the winter, equip a basement, sunroom, spare room, or alcove with shelves and tables that can handle wetness as well as timer-controlled lights and a fan. Fortunately, the bulk of dormant succulents—those that fall dormant in the winter—need relatively little water. Every three weeks or so, dribble a small amount at the base of each plant, just enough to water the roots but not enough to create pools on the ground.
mount grow lights. Light is a plant that loves it. T-5 grow lights are advised by experts in indoor gardening and growing succulents in environments with low visibility. These will maintain the color of your echeverias!
Do succulents survive the cold outside?
There are many succulents that can endure the winter outside, even in extremely cold locations. These
Succulents that are hardy thrive in chilly, snowy winters. Sempervivum heuffelii, which maintains vivid colors for Winter Interest, is one of our favorites. The frost-hardy Sedum cultivars are especially recommended since they create excellent ground covers in practically all regions.
My succulents are outside, is that okay?
Succulents are drought-tolerant plants because they can retain water in their large, irregularly shaped leaves. Succulents have a broad variety of eye-catching shapes and textures, which provide any landscape aesthetic interest. Can succulents live outside? is an often asked question. The quick response is “yes”! Growing succulents outdoors is an excellent alternative because they do well there and can withstand some neglect. They also do well in sunny areas with warm, dry weather.
Succulents can be grown in the ground, in pots, or hidden in unexpected planting locations. Take the uncertainty out of caring for these wonderful conversation pieces with stunning foliage by reading our suggestions for growing succulents outside.
I have succulents, when should I cover them?
“Frost tender” succulents may experience variable degrees of damage, depending on how long the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F). A sensitive plant’s cells expand, burst, and transform its leaves to mush when liquid inside them freezes. In a “light frost,” only the tips of the leaves may be harmed (“frost burn”). A “hard frost” is characterized by sustained temperatures below freezing, which can cause entire plants to die. Typically, succulents do not recover from roots.
Ones that are among the most fragile succulents include crassulas, aeoniums, euphorbias, and kalanchoes. Some succulents, in particular, have an inbuilt antifreeze that allows them to endure temperatures considerably below 32 degrees Fahrenheit—in fact, below zero.
Are your outdoor succulents at risk over the winter? Depending on where you reside, Please refer to “Cold Weather Care for Outdoor Succulents, By Region.”
Your area is frost-free (lucky you!) if…
This soft-leaved agave in my garden is the canary in the mineshaft when it comes to cold. Many succulents may survive a brief cold (less than an hour), but Agave attenuata’s leaf tips immediately reveal damage.
Although ugly, this damage rarely results in death. See how each leaf’s healthy green portion is? Cut each leaf to a point using scissors to remove the tissue-paper-like frozen tips. The harm won’t be very evident when you’re finished. Those shorter, clipped leaves will be buried by new growth during the summer. (Note: Such damage is comparable to scorching brought on by excessive sun and heat, which is common of desert conditions, and by wildfire, which, believe it or not, does occur.)
What about a succulent or agave that only suffers damage from frost on the tips of its leaves? Don’t even try trimming them. In a few months, it will shed those oldest leaves nevertheless.
areas with sporadic, light frosts (like Southern California’s interior):
If there is a “frost advisory” for your area, keep an eye on the weather forecast, and before it gets dark, go outdoors and cover your sensitive succulents. After midnight, frost is more common, and temperatures increase colder as dawn approaches. Warm air is lighter than cold air, which travels down hills and gathers in low areas. Succulents in swales are therefore more vulnerable than those on top of berms. You may have heard that Christmas lights slightly increase the temperature. Yes, if they are the traditional variety. LEDs in current use don’t produce heat. You should be concerned about succulents that are exposed to the elements and have nothing over them. I occasionally lean over a succulent and look up. It becomes draped if there aren’t any tree limbs or eaves directly above.
I reside at 1,500 feet in the foothills NE of San Diego (Zone 9b). And yes, after seeing the weather forecast on the late-night news, I have been outside at 11 p.m. in my pajamas and slippers, freezing while I place blankets on delicate plants while my husband holds a flashlight. I may leave the plants covered if several nights of frost are expected; otherwise, I take the sheets off the next morning. I fasten them with clothes pins and rocks to make sure they won’t blow off. AVOID using plastic. The plants are unable to breathe because of it.
In my yard, jades and other delicate succulents are covered in frost cloth. WATCH THE VIDEO
Why cold damages some succulents and not others
The origin of a certain plant type affects it greatly. Most succulents are native to dry, hot areas where they can store water in their leaves to survive drought. The ones that don’t freeze, however, are from dry, cold climates. See my essay, Showy Succulents for Snowy Climates, in the Wall Street Journal. The “hardies” include:
several species and cultivars of sempervivums (hens-and-chicks, above); some cactus, yuccas, and agaves (such as Agave utahensis, A. montana, and A. parryi); and lewisias from the Pacific Northwest.
I have succulents, when should I bring them inside?
Again, a lot of this depends on where you reside and what you’re growing. You should generally bring your succulents inside before the first frost. In the US, this occurs during the end of September for many people.
Naturally, if you are raising cold-tolerant succulents, they can spend the entire winter outside.
Knowing your local growth zone is crucial. You should at the very least be aware of your region’s typical low temperature. For instance, we were in Zone 5 when I lived in Utah. The majority of my succulents at the time were Zone 9 plants.
All succulents with a Zone rating higher than 5 must spend the winter indoors since they cannot withstand the cold.
Since I currently reside in a Zone 9 region near Phoenix, most of my succulent plants perform well year-round outside. Only a few succulents classified as Zone 10 or 11 will require spending the winter indoors.
Therefore, begin by classifying your succulents. Afterward, ascertain which growth zone you are in. Look how how the two contrast! Plants that are rated higher than where you reside should be brought inside.
You can use this video to decide whether you should bring your succulents indoors for the winter.
Can succulents recover after a freeze?
Can a frozen plant still be saved? This truly depends on the kind of plant and how long it was exposed to the cold. On all save the most tropical plants, light freezes are typically something that a plant can recover from.
Remove damaged plant material from woody plants in the spring. In the late winter, you can detect which stems are dead by scratching the bark. The tissue is still alive if the substance is green below. They will lose their leaves as a result of the freezing, but they normally re-leaf in the spring. After all threat of frost has passed, maintain the plants’ moisture and apply a mild fertilizer.
More delicate plants won’t be able to endure the freezing damage and will turn into annuals. Perennial plants that have been frozen-damaged may only have little root damage, in which case you can divide the plant and replant the pieces. The ones that recovered from the root area’s cold did not deal a fatal blow.
How can I avoid freezing my succulent plants in pots?
Knowing how to protect succulent plants from frost is crucial now that the weather is turning colder and I’ve added them to my garden containers. Perennial plants typically die to the ground in response to winter cold. Their roots produce new growth in the spring. However, many succulents native to warm climes lack this adaption and necessitate special care when planted in areas where the temperature falls below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Debra Lee Baldwin, a talented photojournalist and author, has some advice for you. — Avoid removing the dried leaves that are affixed to a succulent’s stem or trunk. They safeguard it from harsh temperatures (cold and hot). Keep succulent plants as dry as possible. When the liquid inside of turgid cells freezes, they are more likely to explode. — Move succulent plants in pots under a deck, a tree, or the eaves. (I attempt to conceal them in places that are covered adjacent to the home)
— Position pots near hardscape, stones, shrubs, and/or walls that absorb and gradually release heat from the sun. The best exposures are to the south and west. — Use old bed sheets or frost cloth to cover succulent plants. Avoid plastic, which amplifies sunlight, retains moisture, and prevents plants from breathing.
If your succulents are damaged by frost, only remove collapsed leaves if it’s likely that they’ll stay damp and decompose. Leave them on, though, and prune in the spring if they will protect the plant from subsequent frost. — Avoid cutting straight across tip-burned leaves on slender-leaved succulents (like agaves and aloes) in order to preserve their geometric shape. — Just put it down to experience. Now that you are aware, you can find a safe place for that specific plant. (I’m attempting to get better at gardening and have joined the Solano Master Gardener program.)